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I had no problem at 10psi and 26 degrees of timing other than torque converter failures.

@koalafiedengineering1200 ok thanks for the help

@koalafiedengineering1200 What ring gap do you recommend for top and bottom ? Probably set boost at 10psi but would like 12 down the road

@@PatinatruckGarage .026" top .028" is the least I run. I would target closer to .028" top and .030" second to be safe. Use a catch can with 10an towards the front of each valve cover.

@koalafiedengineering1200 thank you

yes, no tune is necessary.

Nice 👍🏼, consider it purchased

I'm excited to see what kind of power it can make with methanol and boost.

@@koalafiedengineering1200 me too sir. It's going to be torquey. We know that. I have a single ported Edelbrock for mine. Some old sCOOL trw pop ups.

yeahhhhhh, that was a locked up junkyard engine I hammered the pistons out of with a block of wood, honed and put back together with the junk parts. I was going to turn it up until it exploded but I was sick of spending money on torque converters.

Holley makes carbs with screw in air bleeds and the aftermarket efi is getting unbelievably good. I still love carbs and will always have some personal vehicles running them.

@@koalafiedengineering1200 I'm thinking efi myself for my 383. The cost of carbs and regular mechanical fuel pumps has gotten crazy expensive.

You're right and it's sad. When Holley was selling the factory reman 750 vacuum secondary carbs for $250ish around 2010 you could buy a secondary spring kit and a jet kit and make any domestic v8 run and drive good. after I'm done posting ranger stuff there might be some draw through hobbs switch stuff. @@inscoredbz

I did not realize it had been so long.

Not bad that truck comes stock with 425-435 hp at the crank so 300WHP seems fair for a stock dyno pull

18 percent drivetrain loss with larger than stock wheels/tires and no correction factor is very respectable.

I have no idea, maybe Kyle will chime in.

This is made better by the fact I blew a manifold up I built because I ignored the volume constraints in a carbureted application.

I may have omitted the cleaning process in this video but it is super easy to clean with brake clean and compressed air.

I built it for a hill climb class that required a full factory chassis. That race no longer exists so I took a break and started building a small tire no prep car this weekend.

I recently had a customer in a spec class pick up 7whp through the whole rev range. He immediately won a race. AUC is never talked about, if you can put the power down and can do so through the entire rpm range you will be faster!

It ran excellent from the factory computers timing table. If these engines weren't so expensive I would have continued this project. I have changed direction drastically and plan to start posting videos again.

At that boost level you should really run forged 2618 pistons. I have ran forged 4032 pistons at that boost and they looked fine but I was far beyond the safe limit. Realistically traction will be a major problem followed by transmissions and torque converters. If you plan to run a c6 get a cam with a large lobe separation to mitigate torque and extend your useable power. What are you using for boost?

@Koalafiedengineering I work up at TiAL, so I have a xona rotor s400 series. I'm running a 5speed dog box

Yeah those old school power builds are great but not much flat ground to run them anymore like we used to. I run big tire diesels just cause it's kinda all you can run these days where we play but bbf in the works

Where/how did this end up? Super curious

stock internals are absolutely fine at 5psi just make sure your rings are gapped and bearing clearance is good.

In this setup I was pulling 1 degree of timing everywhere because I had not setup the boost timing control. at 10 psi I was at 26 degrees total. I never turned the boost up past that because I couldn't get a trans or torque converter to survive.

To be completely honest I have no idea. I hate bmw almost as much as diesel's.

USA F30/31 has a 328d 4 cylinder diesel engine I have a 2017 328d xdrive diesel

@@Adam_Rosenberg91 Correct!

@@Adam_Rosenberg91 All it did was further confuse the issue since it's a 2.0L engine. 280 ft-lbs from 2L of displacement is no joke, though. I have a 330Ci for when I want raw HP instead of diesel grunt.

@@koalafiedengineering1200 u suck. Diesel is the best daily. And bmw make amazing engines and cars problem is broke cunts who dont service their bmw and sell it when its already crap

It was 93 pump gas until 10 psi I switched to c12. The reason for the switch was my lack of timing control. I was not able to retard the timing for boost due to the simplicity of this setup. It probably would have been fine with how low the compression is I just did not want to risk hurting the motor from a tuning issue.

I'm happy to try and answer any questions you have.

@@koalafiedengineering1200 What's a good place to email you at? I don't want pollute your feed with all these questions!

@@koalafiedengineering1200 Is it worth it to pull a bottom end apart on a rebuild motor that sat for 24 years, I recently got running again? It smokes for a couple minutes and then no smoke at all from the engine. (thinking worn out valve seals) It's not knocking either. Ever so slight oil drip from the rear main when it sits for a long time. I am going to put Edelbrock Performer Heads/Intake on it with a Holley Sniper and Hyper Spark soon. I was not planning on changing out cylinders/con rods. I just want to truck to run well and go to Lowes or Dairy Queen w/ the wife/child and be reliable.....and fun. :) I am also going to switch out the C6 with a 6R80 as well. I took some pictures of the front drivers side cylinder with a small bore cam and it looks....glazed. I am not exactly surprised with it having 80k on the rebuild. Just a lot...and I mean a lot of questions about this rebuild. Oh...the Ford Authorized rebuilder did .040/.010/.010 on the cylinder, mains and rod bearings. Nothing crazy.

@@ryantaylor2595 sorry for the delayed response I'm still buried in customer jobs. my email is Koalafiedengineering@gmail. If you're going to invest the money in the top end I would definitely go through the bottom end and at the very least check it. I also at a minimum do a valve job on all new heads.

Yes, The boost actuated power valve opens based on fuel pressure in the bowl. As boost builds fuel pressure is increased 1:1 with the a fuel pressure regulator. There is a screw that sets tension on a check ball via a spring. as you increase spring pressure by tightening the screw in the power valve you delay boost fuel enrichment.

Who said it was 101lbs?

@@koalafiedengineering1200 my bad, I read lbs as 101

funny that i thought this was some austrailian hillbilly n i was like wait a min thats fucking kevin ahhahaha

They tell you what u want to hear... hahaha

All I can say big daddy is look around on line. For DIESEL tunes.

Rated 180hp at the crank, car is putting 155 to the wheels

Automatic transmission, transfer case, rear diff. Lots of places for all that power to bleed off.