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There has been a couple I think so far. I’m hoping at some point they get it so this will work with all the games 🤞

I’m a big fan of the raspberry pi. Currently I have a pi400 keyboard set up with a hard drive running pimiga 4 and have to say it’s amazing. If you’re lucky and happen to be in the right place at the right time you can still occasionally get a 1200 for a good price but it’s getting harder. The pi is an excellent alternative and hopefully one day you’ll get a 1200 again with the blizzard

Good to know. Like I said in the video, up to now I’ve not used it much and now with the new OS on it I’m still finding my way around. Glad you liked it and thanks for the comment

Yes Gunnar von Boehn who I was talking to on the Apollo forum did suggest using the discord in future. I think it’s nice they have multiple support channels and in future I probably would use the discord because as you said, it’s a lot more active. Thanks for your comment and glad you enjoyed the video

My guess it’s a cost thing. When the first V4 came out USB A and Mini usb were still fairly common. I’m assuming they bought these in bulk so need to use them up before going over to a different port type. In another few years I think they’ll have to change to C as more things come out with USB C connectors only.

It is a shame that it can't be upgraded but 512megs is more then enough I've found. The 1024meg version costs nearly another 100 euros and if I was buying my V4+ again today, I'd probably still go for the 512meg version as I can't see anything that really takes advantage of that extra memory to justify it. Thanks for your comment

​@@BillFixesEverythingIf Linux-68K or any BSD variants ever become a thing for V4SA, the memory may be useful. It could also be useful for apps that create working files in the RAM-disk. Finally, you could copy large games like Quake to RAM-disk for faster loading. Personally, I'd rather have the full gigabyte.

@ I think as soon as there is a real need for more memory then they’ll do it. When you look back at the original Amigas, they always seemed to come with not quite enough memory. When I got my first A500, first thing I did was put another 512k in so I could actually get software to work

Wow, thanks for your comment and glad you liked it. Next step is to make it wireless and hoping to add an attachment to the Bigtrak to get it to do some more things

@@markamd1 Thank you. It was a bit tricky and as a kid, I probably would have attempted it and have probably blown up my C64, good thing I didn’t have a big trak back then to try it out anyway. I am thinking of making a wireless version next because the cord does get in the way. Thanks again for watching and glad you liked it

@@BillFixesEverything Great work mate! There was a Soviet made clone of the Big Trak called the "Moon Rover" or LUNOKHOD in Russian, Released in 1981, and it was made by a company called ELECTRONICA IM-11 which was based in Minsk, Belarus, this model "Clone" in my opinion is the best version created. Instead of stickers, it had actual plastic covers for the head lights, and side panels, plus rear tale lights as well, no cheap stickers. The Power button was locked at the rear and the Touch Pad was a Multi Color pad, made out of a much higher quality material. And finally, the best part, it had a Helipad, located where the 9volt battery would be located under the round grey cover which the Milton Bradley version had, a Flying Disk would shoot out of this Helipad, Super cool!

That does sound cool and much better then the one we got. The Soviet Union did make some excellent clones of western computers and toys. Considering their limited resources, they did some great stuff.

It was when I was an apprentice. One of the engineers I worked with used to work in a model shop and he was told that touching both sides of a lithium battery will short it out and cause it to drain heavily. I did a quick search on google and it does says that it can potentially cause damage to these small batteries if you touch both sides. It maybe similar to making sure you discharge static before handling chips. You may handle them and they work fine after or may handle them and damage them. To be on the safe side I try not to touch both sides if I can avoid it.

It was one of the ribbon cables was not in properly on mine but while I had it open to fix that metal bar back down in the neck I thought I might as well clean it up. For your one it sounds like it could be one of two things. Could be similar to mine and one of the pins isn’t making contact and this sounds the most likely problem as it’s all of the 1st fret not making contact. Secondly it could be that the contacts on the 1st fret are dirty but you’d usually still get one or two strings working on that 1st fret. I’d take the back off and make sure those two ribbon cables are pushed in correctly first. Hope this helps and good luck 👍

@@BillFixesEverything awesome, thanks for the reply! I'll take a look at it when i work up the courage and let ya know how it goes!

Cool, I’m glad you liked it. I think sometimes it’s easy to think you need the $200 solder sucker and lcd microscope but just a handful of basic tools can help you repair a lot

Very true, long screwdrivers and Allen keys do come in handy when someone has decided to bury the screws right at the back. Thanks for the comment 👍

Cool, it’s a lot easier than I thought it would be so give it a go. Since doing that video, I found another one in my collection, same colour shell to, very odd. Good luck and send me a comment if you need help with it 👍

Thank you for making excellent music and letting creators like me use it 👍👍👍

Excellent work. Nothing better then when it whirs back into life again. One thing I didn’t notice until I also picked up a sonic version is that the timer on the Kongman is going way too fast. Thanks for your comment and good job 👍

The tankDS is the one I am most familiar with. I thought I was getting a DS for Christmas 2006 and ended up being a Gizmondo 🤦🏻‍♂️. It was still the first one I owned and still amazed how cheap they are. Thanks for your comment and good to hear my video production is improving, I look back at some of my earlier ones and think did people really need to see a minute shot of me undoing a screw 😁

Yes this was an amazing toy for its time. I never had it back in the day but last day of school before the summer holidays, other kids would bring it in so got a chance to play it. Until I did this video, I didn’t realise it was just one motor moving everything, such a clever design. This does show up from time to time on eBay for cheap so worth looking for. They also re-released it as a sonic game and a skateboarding game but exactly the same mechanics. Thanks for watching 👍

Thank you for watching and for the comment, hoped you enjoyed it.

@@BillFixesEverything no worries at all, and yeah enjoyed it! Keep it up!

Hi Restless Mosaic, thank you for letting me use your songs on my video. You are extremely talented and I love the way in your songs evolve as the tracks go on. It is very easy to just put down a beat and build on it but what you do with your music takes real talent so thank you again. Back in the day I used to play around on my Amiga to make music on a tracker but its very 90s and I did pretty much build up over a constant beat. You are also the first artist to reach out so thank you for that to. Osborne Executive is what was called portable in the 1980s and luggable today. Lovely computer and if you still have it and if it works, may be worth turning on again to get that nostalgia hit

Thank you. There was times where that resistor fell off for the 50th time where I was tempted to give up but I'm glad I did it. Thanks for watching

Thanks, I will try that. I see you've done a video on it to and also found someone brave enough to hold the probes. I may do an update on it at some point in the future but right now the projects are racking up

@@BillFixesEverything … 👍🏻😃 I have owned this machine for quite some time… many of my students have asked if I would use the machine on them… And my son thinks it’s funny to see how much he can take …😹😹👍🏻 I’ll tell you what’s funny your multimeter is the exact same one I own ….😳🤔👍🏻

I thought we had similar rule here but when you look inside the ZX spectrum there isn't any. I'm guessing by the second revision of the C64 they must have relaxed it a bit because that has a piece of cardboard with a bit of foil on it for the shielding. Shame the Channel F didn't stay in there longer. Even though it was first to market, once Atari got a foothold, even if your console was superior, they grabbed the market share. Thanks for watching.

Hopefully you've been able to sort it now. I did another video on the Intellivision where I replaced the membranes in the controllers and when I plugged them back in again, the controller wouldn't work. It may be worth unplugging the controllers first and see if that makes a difference. Following that, remove and reseat the chips that are mounted in chip holders, then clean the cartridge port with some isopropyl alcohol to make sure that's not the issue. If none of that works, have a look to see if there are any dry joints. If none of that works, it could be the STIC chip but hopefully not.

@@BillFixesEverything I've Seen the Membrane Vid. I have it Gutted on the Workbench, It really seems like the Cartridge Slot is Swollen, I have to rock a Cart back 'n Forth to make sure all the Contacts are seated properly; But not too Far, or Everything is Grey Scale.. This thing is Clean, More to come Really Weird.

Hi, sorry for the delay in responding. I'd give it a look if you are happy to pay the postage. However, may I suggest that it could be something as simple as the battery contacts have a bit of corrosion even if they look fine. May be worth taking a bit of fine sandpaper to them just to make sure the battery is making a good connection. If you haven't sorted it out and want me to have a look just message again and we'll see what we can sort out.

Making it 32 would have helped it a lot. 16K at this point in 8 bit computers was way to low.

It is a shame because they are lovely machines both the 16 and the Plus 4. Wasn't it around this time that Jack Tramiel left and bought up Atari. I think if he had stayed, things would have been very different for Commodore and their future. They did seem to lose their way, even working on the C64 successor, the C65 for a market that had moved away from 8 bit and on to 16 bit. Not that it is a bad computer, just to late.

@BillFixesEverything I remember being a middle aged boy and father said we're npping into town,he asked a shop assistant about a commodore plus4,in my head I questioned myself thinking what did dad just say

If that shell is a repro then it’s very good. It’s the right shade of grey and the markings are crisp. That said, the label is the big giveaway on it so don’t see why they would repurpose an original cart shell to put such a crap label on there. It’s a shame Nintendo won’t licence it out to a small company to make more authentic repros, built to their standards. I guess they are happy just emulating some of them on the Wii, wii U, switch, etc. Thanks for your comment 👍

I agree. When some games are starting to go for crazy money, it does make me wonder why it wouldn’t be profitable for Nintendo to make more, even if it was a small run through a third party company. It is a shame that a lot of the repro carts are made to a cost so they do the soldered in battery and in the case of that Mariokart, they couldn’t even get the solder tag in the middle of the battery. Thanks for watching and the comment

I think the issue was memory cost back then would have ramped the price up closer to the BBC price. A friend of mine had an electron back in the day and would often buy the BBC B versions of games because if they used certain graphic modes, they would work on the Electron. He did come unstuck buying the BBC B version of elite. It would get to the loading picture and crash because part of the screen is in an unsupported graphic mode for the electron. Still he tried one whole Saturday trying to get it to work before taking it back. Back then a lot of kids didn’t know the differences of why one game would work and another wouldn’t. Thanks for your comment

Thanks for watching and glad you enjoyed it

I know where you’re coming from. Now I can appreciate all of them for what they are but back in the 1980s, the C64 was on a different level compared to most home computers

​@@BillFixesEverythingnonsense there's over 33k games for zx 5million can't be wrong

@@ZXSpectrum128K The ZX Spectrum does have some amazing games for it and quite a few better ports then the C64 got and better then the Acorn Electron got as you can see at the end of the video. The Spectrum did have one massive advantage in that it could be programmed to do whatever, no sprite or sound hardware, it was a blank canvas

@@BillFixesEverything I think also just 6kb of pixels and only 768 bytes of colour has to be the smallest ram to processor ratio no? Have you seen lotus turbo esprit?

⁠@@ZXSpectrum128K weirdly I do like lotus turbo esprit even though it runs like a slide show

Thank you. I was curious to see if someone had done Outrun on 7800 yet but I couldn’t find anything. I did find that someone has done it for the 2600 but you’d probably want the cassette to play along with it 😁 ruclips.net/video/FWai0HBtxJw/видео.htmlsi=X9zOv3J45kXwldml

Whenever I saw outrun in the arcade, it still got my money because even though the home ports scratched an itch, the arcade was the best, especially if you found the sit in cab. Also considering their power, the Amiga & Atari ST versions could have been so much better

@@BillFixesEverything at the time for me it was either the sit down version of outrun or sit down version of Space Harrier. Even today when you play a mame version of either game, it still feels like there is something missing. Yeah I bought an st in 1990 and was really disappointed by outrun (which came with the discovery pack). I think the c64 highlighted that you can have speed in the game but you sacrifice graphics, the spectrum version was the exact opposite. I can forgive the game for not having sound on the speccy version, but I think both could have been a lot better.

Sometimes the pot noodle was better then what they cooked on masterchef. Especially the 1980s version that had so much salt and additives in it, they can’t make it that way by law today, good times 😁

Good to have you and thanks for the sub 👍

Again, good to know. I like games like that where you can test all the buttons easily. On the GameCube I use to use Star Wars clone wars because it used all the buttons and you could always see if any on the analog sticks where drifting… if there was it was usually the X stick

Predictive txt meant C stick 😁

Yes that would make sense but so far, both controllers are still working well 👍

Good to hear from you in Sweden. An interesting problem. I’ve done a little research and most people have it going blank screen from startup. I think what may be happening is that once the system is warming up, a component is failing causing it not to read the cartridge correctly and then causing a blank screen. First thing I would try is giving the cartridge port a good clean. I’ve seen it on things like NES consoles where a game will play for a bit and then glitch or freeze. I’d use isopropyl alcohol or contact cleaner and try get down the contacts by inserting and removing a cart, giving it a wiggle of course, do this all with the power off. It could also be a dry contact on the board. These are also notorious for causing weird issues happening. For this though, you’d need a soldering iron and some solder to freshen them up. A little solder flux may help to. See if that fixes it or at least means the game runs for longer without crashing. Failing that, it’s looking at the board traces to make sure they are not damaged or corroded or start changing things like the capacitors as maybe one or two may be dry and no longer at the correct value. Hope something here helps you fix it

I have since printed a new key from thingyverse, www.thingiverse.com/thing:4596135. It says for an amstrad or Schneider C464 but does the job. Next thing I need is to find a better solution for the tape deck. I’m wondering if a Sinclair +2 tape recorder keys work in a similar way. Thanks for watching

I have to say when I started doing this I thought it was just going to be as simple as putting a belt on it and getting some voltage showing. Good idea with the AVO meter. I should have some old analog meters from my apprenticeship days. Right now without actually putting my fingers in it, couldn’t tell if it was generating any electric or not. At some point in the future I want to do a follow up on it but right now it is a lovely thing just to have on display as it’s so well made. Thanks for watching

It’s true, they are amazing designs, Jay Miner did good. Also, nice job on getting your A500 going again 👍

I had a look on thingyverse which is a good resource for 3D printed parts and someone has uploaded the balloon part. I recently got the sonic the hedgehog version and like you, mine is missing the top part. Hopefully at some point I’ll get around to making a replacement and when I do I’ll share the print and do a video of it

I agree, as soon as I sprayed it and tried clearing it off I realised that probably best to leave it be. It’s not causing any harm and if anything probably protecting the bottom of the board. I have a few more to do so I’ll see if it’s on them also

If its wonky because the solder has cracked then may be easier to just go over the points with a soldering iron which should tighten it up but if you want to replace it. Once de-soldered, the best thing to remove the rivets is to drill them out or getting a pair of side cutters and snipping the plastic the rivet goes through and they should come out. Hope this helps and good luck

captain...I sympathise and relate a little with you on the cartridge slot removal..I have had that challenge some years ago..and I'm a City & Guilds toolmaker..which 99.9% are not..I managed..with many hours..to prise the rivet back to tube shape and extract the plastic slot..I even reused the brass rivet..why I was so careful to minimise damage to it..I knew I'd never see another exactly that size..patience is a virtue.. doesn't help mentioning that though..you'll need various sharp knives..good small pliers..a drill bit that fits snug inside the rivet so as not to deform it too much..and hours..then you'll need to reform the top of the rivet after refitting the replacement slot..I ground a few old oversized drill bits..the flat base of them into curves..and even sacrificed an old screwdriver ground the tip..so you'd need access to a grinder too..of course you might bypass all this if you can find a decent rivet set..good luck sir..

Also...of my 8 MegaDrives..4 x MD1 and 4 x MD2...one of each version had faults..pity my faulty MD2 isn't as easy as a loose power barrel socket..it has shaky graphics..yes..the shiggle but all the graphics are there..probably needs a total capacitor replacement..the faulty MD1 was black screen with white bars..research pointed to faulty PPU or Processor..so I have 6..and a half..and dozens of other consoles and handhelds

Thank you for watching and for the comment. I know when I first started doing RUclips genuinely had no idea what to expect so thought it would be good to pass on some of the things I’ve found out so far