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Excellent work. Nothing better then when it whirs back into life again. One thing I didn’t notice until I also picked up a sonic version is that the timer on the Kongman is going way too fast. Thanks for your comment and good job 👍

The tankDS is the one I am most familiar with. I thought I was getting a DS for Christmas 2006 and ended up being a Gizmondo 🤦🏻‍♂️. It was still the first one I owned and still amazed how cheap they are. Thanks for your comment and good to hear my video production is improving, I look back at some of my earlier ones and think did people really need to see a minute shot of me undoing a screw 😁

Yes this was an amazing toy for its time. I never had it back in the day but last day of school before the summer holidays, other kids would bring it in so got a chance to play it. Until I did this video, I didn’t realise it was just one motor moving everything, such a clever design. This does show up from time to time on eBay for cheap so worth looking for. They also re-released it as a sonic game and a skateboarding game but exactly the same mechanics. Thanks for watching 👍

Thank you for watching and for the comment, hoped you enjoyed it.

@@BillFixesEverything no worries at all, and yeah enjoyed it! Keep it up!

Hi Restless Mosaic, thank you for letting me use your songs on my video. You are extremely talented and I love the way in your songs evolve as the tracks go on. It is very easy to just put down a beat and build on it but what you do with your music takes real talent so thank you again. Back in the day I used to play around on my Amiga to make music on a tracker but its very 90s and I did pretty much build up over a constant beat. You are also the first artist to reach out so thank you for that to. Osborne Executive is what was called portable in the 1980s and luggable today. Lovely computer and if you still have it and if it works, may be worth turning on again to get that nostalgia hit

Thank you. There was times where that resistor fell off for the 50th time where I was tempted to give up but I'm glad I did it. Thanks for watching

Thanks, I will try that. I see you've done a video on it to and also found someone brave enough to hold the probes. I may do an update on it at some point in the future but right now the projects are racking up

@@BillFixesEverything … 👍🏻😃 I have owned this machine for quite some time… many of my students have asked if I would use the machine on them… And my son thinks it’s funny to see how much he can take …😹😹👍🏻 I’ll tell you what’s funny your multimeter is the exact same one I own ….😳🤔👍🏻

I thought we had similar rule here but when you look inside the ZX spectrum there isn't any. I'm guessing by the second revision of the C64 they must have relaxed it a bit because that has a piece of cardboard with a bit of foil on it for the shielding. Shame the Channel F didn't stay in there longer. Even though it was first to market, once Atari got a foothold, even if your console was superior, they grabbed the market share. Thanks for watching.

Hopefully you've been able to sort it now. I did another video on the Intellivision where I replaced the membranes in the controllers and when I plugged them back in again, the controller wouldn't work. It may be worth unplugging the controllers first and see if that makes a difference. Following that, remove and reseat the chips that are mounted in chip holders, then clean the cartridge port with some isopropyl alcohol to make sure that's not the issue. If none of that works, have a look to see if there are any dry joints. If none of that works, it could be the STIC chip but hopefully not.

@@BillFixesEverything I've Seen the Membrane Vid. I have it Gutted on the Workbench, It really seems like the Cartridge Slot is Swollen, I have to rock a Cart back 'n Forth to make sure all the Contacts are seated properly; But not too Far, or Everything is Grey Scale.. This thing is Clean, More to come Really Weird.

Hi, sorry for the delay in responding. I'd give it a look if you are happy to pay the postage. However, may I suggest that it could be something as simple as the battery contacts have a bit of corrosion even if they look fine. May be worth taking a bit of fine sandpaper to them just to make sure the battery is making a good connection. If you haven't sorted it out and want me to have a look just message again and we'll see what we can sort out.

Making it 32 would have helped it a lot. 16K at this point in 8 bit computers was way to low.

It is a shame because they are lovely machines both the 16 and the Plus 4. Wasn't it around this time that Jack Tramiel left and bought up Atari. I think if he had stayed, things would have been very different for Commodore and their future. They did seem to lose their way, even working on the C64 successor, the C65 for a market that had moved away from 8 bit and on to 16 bit. Not that it is a bad computer, just to late.

@BillFixesEverything I remember being a middle aged boy and father said we're npping into town,he asked a shop assistant about a commodore plus4,in my head I questioned myself thinking what did dad just say

If that shell is a repro then it’s very good. It’s the right shade of grey and the markings are crisp. That said, the label is the big giveaway on it so don’t see why they would repurpose an original cart shell to put such a crap label on there. It’s a shame Nintendo won’t licence it out to a small company to make more authentic repros, built to their standards. I guess they are happy just emulating some of them on the Wii, wii U, switch, etc. Thanks for your comment 👍

I agree. When some games are starting to go for crazy money, it does make me wonder why it wouldn’t be profitable for Nintendo to make more, even if it was a small run through a third party company. It is a shame that a lot of the repro carts are made to a cost so they do the soldered in battery and in the case of that Mariokart, they couldn’t even get the solder tag in the middle of the battery. Thanks for watching and the comment

I think the issue was memory cost back then would have ramped the price up closer to the BBC price. A friend of mine had an electron back in the day and would often buy the BBC B versions of games because if they used certain graphic modes, they would work on the Electron. He did come unstuck buying the BBC B version of elite. It would get to the loading picture and crash because part of the screen is in an unsupported graphic mode for the electron. Still he tried one whole Saturday trying to get it to work before taking it back. Back then a lot of kids didn’t know the differences of why one game would work and another wouldn’t. Thanks for your comment

Thanks for watching and glad you enjoyed it

I know where you’re coming from. Now I can appreciate all of them for what they are but back in the 1980s, the C64 was on a different level compared to most home computers

​@@BillFixesEverythingnonsense there's over 33k games for zx 5million can't be wrong

@@ZXSpectrum128K The ZX Spectrum does have some amazing games for it and quite a few better ports then the C64 got and better then the Acorn Electron got as you can see at the end of the video. The Spectrum did have one massive advantage in that it could be programmed to do whatever, no sprite or sound hardware, it was a blank canvas

@@BillFixesEverything I think also just 6kb of pixels and only 768 bytes of colour has to be the smallest ram to processor ratio no? Have you seen lotus turbo esprit?

⁠@@ZXSpectrum128K weirdly I do like lotus turbo esprit even though it runs like a slide show

Thank you. I was curious to see if someone had done Outrun on 7800 yet but I couldn’t find anything. I did find that someone has done it for the 2600 but you’d probably want the cassette to play along with it 😁 ruclips.net/video/FWai0HBtxJw/видео.htmlsi=X9zOv3J45kXwldml

Whenever I saw outrun in the arcade, it still got my money because even though the home ports scratched an itch, the arcade was the best, especially if you found the sit in cab. Also considering their power, the Amiga & Atari ST versions could have been so much better

@@BillFixesEverything at the time for me it was either the sit down version of outrun or sit down version of Space Harrier. Even today when you play a mame version of either game, it still feels like there is something missing. Yeah I bought an st in 1990 and was really disappointed by outrun (which came with the discovery pack). I think the c64 highlighted that you can have speed in the game but you sacrifice graphics, the spectrum version was the exact opposite. I can forgive the game for not having sound on the speccy version, but I think both could have been a lot better.

Sometimes the pot noodle was better then what they cooked on masterchef. Especially the 1980s version that had so much salt and additives in it, they can’t make it that way by law today, good times 😁

Good to have you and thanks for the sub 👍

Again, good to know. I like games like that where you can test all the buttons easily. On the GameCube I use to use Star Wars clone wars because it used all the buttons and you could always see if any on the analog sticks where drifting… if there was it was usually the X stick

Predictive txt meant C stick 😁

Yes that would make sense but so far, both controllers are still working well 👍

Good to hear from you in Sweden. An interesting problem. I’ve done a little research and most people have it going blank screen from startup. I think what may be happening is that once the system is warming up, a component is failing causing it not to read the cartridge correctly and then causing a blank screen. First thing I would try is giving the cartridge port a good clean. I’ve seen it on things like NES consoles where a game will play for a bit and then glitch or freeze. I’d use isopropyl alcohol or contact cleaner and try get down the contacts by inserting and removing a cart, giving it a wiggle of course, do this all with the power off. It could also be a dry contact on the board. These are also notorious for causing weird issues happening. For this though, you’d need a soldering iron and some solder to freshen them up. A little solder flux may help to. See if that fixes it or at least means the game runs for longer without crashing. Failing that, it’s looking at the board traces to make sure they are not damaged or corroded or start changing things like the capacitors as maybe one or two may be dry and no longer at the correct value. Hope something here helps you fix it

I have since printed a new key from thingyverse, www.thingiverse.com/thing:4596135. It says for an amstrad or Schneider C464 but does the job. Next thing I need is to find a better solution for the tape deck. I’m wondering if a Sinclair +2 tape recorder keys work in a similar way. Thanks for watching

I have to say when I started doing this I thought it was just going to be as simple as putting a belt on it and getting some voltage showing. Good idea with the AVO meter. I should have some old analog meters from my apprenticeship days. Right now without actually putting my fingers in it, couldn’t tell if it was generating any electric or not. At some point in the future I want to do a follow up on it but right now it is a lovely thing just to have on display as it’s so well made. Thanks for watching

It’s true, they are amazing designs, Jay Miner did good. Also, nice job on getting your A500 going again 👍

I had a look on thingyverse which is a good resource for 3D printed parts and someone has uploaded the balloon part. I recently got the sonic the hedgehog version and like you, mine is missing the top part. Hopefully at some point I’ll get around to making a replacement and when I do I’ll share the print and do a video of it

I agree, as soon as I sprayed it and tried clearing it off I realised that probably best to leave it be. It’s not causing any harm and if anything probably protecting the bottom of the board. I have a few more to do so I’ll see if it’s on them also

If its wonky because the solder has cracked then may be easier to just go over the points with a soldering iron which should tighten it up but if you want to replace it. Once de-soldered, the best thing to remove the rivets is to drill them out or getting a pair of side cutters and snipping the plastic the rivet goes through and they should come out. Hope this helps and good luck

captain...I sympathise and relate a little with you on the cartridge slot removal..I have had that challenge some years ago..and I'm a City & Guilds toolmaker..which 99.9% are not..I managed..with many hours..to prise the rivet back to tube shape and extract the plastic slot..I even reused the brass rivet..why I was so careful to minimise damage to it..I knew I'd never see another exactly that size..patience is a virtue.. doesn't help mentioning that though..you'll need various sharp knives..good small pliers..a drill bit that fits snug inside the rivet so as not to deform it too much..and hours..then you'll need to reform the top of the rivet after refitting the replacement slot..I ground a few old oversized drill bits..the flat base of them into curves..and even sacrificed an old screwdriver ground the tip..so you'd need access to a grinder too..of course you might bypass all this if you can find a decent rivet set..good luck sir..

Also...of my 8 MegaDrives..4 x MD1 and 4 x MD2...one of each version had faults..pity my faulty MD2 isn't as easy as a loose power barrel socket..it has shaky graphics..yes..the shiggle but all the graphics are there..probably needs a total capacitor replacement..the faulty MD1 was black screen with white bars..research pointed to faulty PPU or Processor..so I have 6..and a half..and dozens of other consoles and handhelds

Thank you for watching and for the comment. I know when I first started doing RUclips genuinely had no idea what to expect so thought it would be good to pass on some of the things I’ve found out so far

Thank you for the comment. Like I said in the video it’s good to know people enjoy what you do as much as I enjoy doing it

Thanks for your comment. Yes soldering can be tricky for sure and very easy to solder two tracks together without realising it. Best soldering story I heard was that Clive Sinclair decided not to do the ZX Spectrum as a kit because they had received several ZX81 kits backs where people had tried to glue the components in because they heard that heat from a soldering iron could damage the components and wondered why the computer wasn’t working 😁

Thank you, glad you like it and still amazed at how easy it is to modify the PSP to play games from the memory stick duo and how much faster they load

Can anyone answer my question, please.

Hi sorry for the delay in back to you. From memory it all gets installed from the software. When you look at the SD card all the games are also automatically put into folders 1,2,3 etc also depending on how you want them sorted on the software. Do you have GDEMU installed in your Dreamcast or thinking of doing this mod?

I’d recommend also getting some isopropyl alcohol on it once you have decapped it to neutralise anything that may have leaked on it. The good thing is, they don’t seem to leak as bad the Amiga capacitors so hopefully there should be little to no damage on your Game gear boards fingers crossed🤞

If you check the description I’ve put a link to the webpage where got it from or this the link to the software from the website: csdb.dk/release/download.php?id=192143 Hope this helps 👍

Thanks

Thank you and glad you enjoyed it. I’m hoping to do a follow up moving everything over to the new A500+ PCB at some point

Interesting, at first I didn’t think it was possible. The PSP CPU is clocked 333mhz and a lot of games are underclocked to help with battery life. However, I did find this video on RUclips ruclips.net/video/5364TUdifvE/видео.htmlsi=-Pi26GczeaO-rGmH PSP mav in this video goes through installing CW cheat which can unlock the framerate from 30fps on some games up to 60fps. It’s a little bit involved may be worth trying. Graphically not much to do. The PSP is somewhere between the PS2 and PS3 graphically. I find the games look good on the screen as long as you don’t put them through to the TV or next to a PSvita

Hi, I put in the description of you search for miniture small round motor 1.5v - 3v it should give you the correct motor. Basically this is the motor on Amazon amzn.eu/d/1IZUmfZ but you’ll find it on eBay and other websites, it’s a very common motor used a lot in toys. The only thing you’ll have to do is remove the gear from the original motor. I hope this helps and good luck 👍

Hi again . With ur help i was able to make it work again . Seem the motor is just stuck up. Now , just wondering , whats the size of the metal ball. Bought some but it either too big or small . Or maybe heavy too. Any size description would be a big help

@@boysopas5951 Hello again, if you look in my video description I wrote the size down in metric and imperial, also further on in the video I go through the ball size needed. One of the problems I had was the previous owner using the wrong ball size so it was getting stuck in the mechanism. Hope this helps 👍

Thanks for watching. I did get the key cut and even though you are giving them the blank it cost me £5 and that was a cheap place. Expect up to about £10.

@@BillFixesEverything just went to my local hardware shop and paid £2 to get it cut. Thanks for your video, otherwise I would have not sorted the key out

@@kayali8842 nice and £2 is a very good price, I’m glad the video helped

Interesting, I’ll have to look into this. Did they get it correct on the rev 4 of the board do you know? When I replace CD ribbon connector, I’ll replace these capacitors and update the video accordingly with the capacitor polarity. Thanks for the info 👍

When they are bulging like that then they were put the wrong way around with regards to polarity. It's classic to see those two caps bulging in CD32s due to the factory mistake. I believe this mistake was made on all CD32s from factory @@BillFixesEverything

All the battery for is the real time clock. It’s fine to remove it and recommended as when it leaks, it will destroy the motherboard. You can replace it with a more modern battery if you require the clock but not necessary, the Amiga will work fine without it

Thanks for your comments. Personally, I'd do something similar to what I did in the video, use a third party power supply and lead to be able to connect it to a regular TV. I had a look online and found these two places that do Amstrad repairs. I've never used them and not sure if they do the monitors or just the computer but may be worth an email to find out. rudedogretros.co.uk/product/amstrad-cpc-repair-or-refurbish/ www.mutant-caterpillar.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?products_id=3500 Please let me know how you get on with them and by all means do your own search as well as someone who does CRT TV repairs may be more suitable.

Thank you for watching and you’re right that they are fairly easy to work on compared to modern tech. At some point I want to transplant my 500+ all over to a new motherboard, hopefully sooner rather than later but first I need to look at my CD32 which is not in good shape

Thanks for your comment. It’d be nice to do some programming on the Dragon 32 for sure but first I need to get the video out a bit better

ok thanks - what do u mean by get the video out a bit better ? thanks............@@BillFixesEverything

I guess back in the day not many people would be brave enough to open their console to find out if it was soldered or plugged in. They did make a replacement membrane kit back then but may have been more for repair shops rather than home users. The good thing is that having them plugged in internally means they tend not to get lost. I have a Sears Intellivision called the tele-games, can’t find the controllers anywhere. It looks like if you could buy a spare controller back then, it would be a brown box under the counter deal as I haven’t seen any old stock showing boxed controllers.