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As I recall I had to use a small cutter wheel on a Dremel tool to cut the bottom of the cover. The points in this thing were melted together. There wasn't any way to save the component and for twelve dollars it was worth the effort to try.

@@repairsecrets oh ok. I just fixed my washing machine's drain pump. It wasn't turning on. I used a razor blade to slice off the top of the relay. Inside there is a solenoid that pushes two copper plates into contact. That's how the pump turns on. There was carbon or some other buildup. I simply cleaned off the area where they would make contact and glued the lid back on.

@@smkie-hf9pz That's good work and thanks for the heads up on what can be done.

I replaced the relay and reinforced the solder trace on the board with a short piece of copper wire and solder.

This was just a project where the client had nothing to lose so the possibility of repair was worth the risk of a failure.

Thank you for the comment. It is appreciated.

Can you give me the time stamp of where you see it at?

That would be a considerable amount of play. One eighth inch would be 0 .125 inch in decimal measure and a 307E2 Caterpillar is a small excavator. There was a problem in the small Cat excavators around that time where the inside mounting bolts for the bearing were breaking. You might check with your Cat Dealer to see if it might be affecting your machine.

@@repairsecrets@repairsecrets Thanks, I'll check it out. yeah, cat quoted 16 grand to replace it.

I don't have anything on those earlier dozers. They weren't very complicated though. There were no processors in them, only starting, charging, sensors and lights.

Thanks for the question. I don't have a video showing testing those components. They are easily checked using an ohm meter. Most are three wire variable resistors. Unhook them at the harness connectors and then check each wire to the body of the component. There should be no continuity. Next check each wire to the other wires. There should be some resistance that can change when the linkage for the component is moved. As I recall the center wire in the connector is a power wire from the computer and the other two are the sensor wires. There was a lot of problems with those machines and Komatsu did not make any information available in this country.

Unfortunately, I have never found anyway that could be done other than purchasing a new monitor panel. If you find out how, let me know and I'll do a video on it. Thanks for the comment.

I'm happy to hear of your good work. It's amazing how far this reaches. Thanks for posting the comment.

That is the indicator for how much soot your DPT has in it.

You can only delete mechanical codes. While in the code menu, push the up arrow and then 1 and 2 and then 3. When you let go the next screen that comes up will ask you if you want to erase just the one code or all of them. Good Luck!

@@repairsecrets thank you sir ,more bless to come

My experience is on older machines but a black screen usually meant a power problem to the screen. The bad screens usually turned kind of a purple color when they went bad. I would just try the buttons to see if they work. Check all the fuses first.

I'm sorry I don't have either. Thanks for asking the question.

Thank you for the comment.

@@repairsecrets ı need maintenance information for pc300-5. İ need also some oring seat kit.

That is a very good question and I don't know. That's part of the reason I put that copper jumper wire in. I think the load is variable depending on how heavy the material that is being dried is. The owner of the dryer said his wife was washing heavy throw rugs and then putting them in the dryer and he thinks that was the cause.

I have a book now, looking for a machine.

I has been my experience that monitors that have turned a dark magenta color are not salvageable. I has also been my experience that the monitor panels are specific to models by part numbers. There are some after market units made in China that may or may not work. In my experience that part number on the back of your panel is the best way to get one that works.

@@repairsecrets much obliged, i appreciate your advice. My local dealer quoted around 3k for a reman... I will look into the associated pn# and if the China land doesn't offer one we will take my grandfather's advice; ; "check the oil, the fuel will check itself". 😆

Thanks for the comment. I'll keep producing these as the weather, workload and life events change.

On a komatsu p160lc

@@Deadpool2-v4f What Dash series of machine? Dash5, 6, 7, 8, 10 or 11.

Fault code 14 is disconnection in swing brake solenoid system. You can get this fault if the swing brake prolix switch is in the full time release position. Fault code 23 is front pump pressure sensor sensor system. It can be a bad sensor or a problem with the wiring. Fault code 26 is the engine speed sensor problem. You can check the sensor with an ohm meter. It should show around 3 to 8 ohms resistance between the wire leaks and no continuity between a lead and the body of the sensor. Good Luck on the repairs.

Thank you, dear sir. Where is the code sensor 23 installed❤

How much is the temperature, diesel and speed screen, used, in good condition, can you send me one to Jordan?

@@user-qv3fi3fd1m As I recall the pressure sensor is installed on the main control valve at the hose connection from the pump. There is a sensor for each pump and valve section and you will see the wires going into each.

@@user-qv3fi3fd1m I'm not in the parts business so I can't send parts to you. You should be able to find them somewhere in North Africa or Europe easy enough. Good Luck

I don't have a diagram for a 120-5 but I am planning on a video for a PC300-5. There are some minor differences.

If you look at the monitor panel look at the top row of button pads. The far right button labeled F6 is under what looks like pages in a book. Press that button and a menu of user options will appear. Use the arrow buttons to scroll down to the bottom function on that page and press the bottom under the check mark. That will take you to another menu which lists the possible languages in the system scroll down to your choice and press the check mark button again and the system will shift the language to your preference. Good Luck!

​@@repairsecretsI can go for menu select but when I use f3 or f4 buttons nothing happened it doesn't show the arrow on the screen as well . I can use only f5 bottons to turn back sir.

@@kao9159 What country are you in? Can you send me a photo of your panel by email. My address is jcraughan@comcast.net

I'm sorry to say that I don't call people on the phone for my video.

If it is a mechanical relay like the one in the video, you will usually feel it click when you energize the coil. You can check the coil resistance with an ohm meter. In general they will be around three to five ohms. Depending on the number of working contacts in the relay there will be two or three circuit paths for the relay to switch too. There will be a common contact which will be normally closed to one leg when the coil is not energized. The other contact will be closed only when the coil is energized. I've never checked for differences in voltage across a relay. The ohm meter tells a better story.

@Equipment Consulting Services, Inc. relay was bad...I jumped it and got no continuity at the contacts....swapped relays and new one works perfect except for after about an hour it started rattling sparking really bad...i found the problem....I have only 6v at the transistor side or the relay coil....when I measure across the relay it is 6v total....the transistor is most likely bad....the supply side is 12v so everything is good there...

@@macknumber9 That's nice work!

@Equipment Consulting Services, Inc. I'm getting so frustrated...I tested transistor on board and it failed...then I took it off board and it passed...so transistor is not my problem....this .5v is my problem....that is too low to turn on the transistor fully....I really need to figure this out....what else could it be? Thermostat not sending a strong enough signal? Microcontroller? Sorry forgot to mention that...I am getting .5v at the transistor base...I should see .7 or even higher

@@macknumber9 I'm sorry that I can't answer your question on the transistor. I don't have the old board to be able to look at an suggest other possibilities. Let us know what you find if anything.

Lo siento, no tengo esa información.

I wish I could help you with that info but it was never published that I know of and the local dealer who built a pump dyno didn't even tell us in the field about that stuff. We did use the travel functions or cycle times on boom up to see if it was working properly.

What do you mean be potted?

@@repairsecrets My understanding is that potting is a form of resin that boards are dipped/sealed in to protect them from moisture/environmental exposure.

The relay apparently was a standard part. It is a lot smaller, runs at 120 volts AC and is soldered in place on a circuit board. I don't understand your point?

@@repairsecrets A relay is a moving part. Moving parts tend to break and need replacement. If they designed a socket for the relays to fit into, like they do for relays in automobile fuse boxes, then it would be a cinch to swap out a failed relay instead of having to solder it.

@@JoshuaRichards2010 Engineering design doesn't work that way anymore. The engineer has a couple of dozen catalogs in the book case behind him. He needs a component to do something and he doesn't have the manufacturing capability to make it so he picks up a catalog and looks for one supplied by someone else. It has to meet specifications and apparently for this use, this is what he finds. Automotive units aren't this small and solder is the accepted method of attaching to a circuit board. The big deal is that people shouldn't put huge loads like heavy coats and floor rugs in the dryer to pull so much current that it burns out the relay.

@@repairsecrets My dryer is 30 years old. It takes big loads like a champ. They don't build them like they used to.

@@pibblesnbits I can beat that. My WP dryer is 35 years old & still going strong. They didn't have circuit boards...control was all mechanical.

If you can't clear the code, it means the reason for the code has not been repaired yet.

I am well and I hope you are also. The E03 is an operator code that informs the operator there is something wrong. You should check for fault codes in the diagnostics. Is the machine not operating correctly.

I don't understand what you are asking?

As I recall I cut one strand out of a piece of 14 gauge stranded wire and then laid the solder over the top of that.

I didn't do the troubleshooting on the relay. My friend looked up common problems with his machine on the net and came up with this. The new relay did click when he reinstalled the board.

@@repairsecrets How are they held on? What did you use to pull it off? So the burned out relay didn't click anymore?

@@supertrucker1356 They are soldered onto the board. I have this tool called a solder sucker. You heat up the solder with and soldering pencil and then suck up the solder with the suction tool. Look up solder sucker on the web.