Видео

@@suzukiChris750 thanks

@@BenHolmes-n4s it made 544whp 446wtq running out of fuel pressure....so it wasn't done yet. Proper fuel fuel pressure and a couple other adjustments and I think 570-580whp is probably attainable. So yea it's well beyond your fake 480

@@gerrypatrick awesome! Yea it has a little drone when pulling or under heavy part throttle. Other than that I think it sounds great.

Yes....no more aggravation from that stupid clutch fan going bad. The trucks temp don't creep up now and the ac works better. It no doubt accelerates better too but until you tune out the pe delay you probably won't be able to tell.

Thank you!

Thanks...from you explaning the motions it seems your breaking it down in motions. When really it's all one smooth motion. As you push the clutch blip the throttle a appropriate amount to get revs to a point for the next gear. Don't skip gears! It's easier to just row throught the gearbox backwards. It may take more than one throttle blip for multiple gears. I have a really light clutch also which likely helps. A adjustable pedal stop also may help with your consistency pushing the clutch the right distance. I hope that helps ya.

@@HioSSilver1999 I get that.. but are you fully pushing clutch in or more stabbing it? Yes im very mechanical at this point. I think im pushing in the clutch so far on the down shift that the engine slows up to much so the blip of the throttle beofre the downshift is not enough to rev match it.

@@DynoTuneN20 you might need to rev it a bit more on the blip then....not necessarily for more rpm but more time. Like i said you may need a pedal stop. I made one because with my clutch you don't want to over throw it. So my clutch pedal throw is probably 1/2-2/3 what stock is. My clutch disengages and engages very quickly. The pedal stop really helps with place where the clutch pedal disengages. Adjust it to where the clutch has just disengaged instead of going through the whole throw of the pedal. What type of clutch are you running? Something else too.....sometimes the throttle cracker in the tune might mess you up on timing/blipping the throttle. I eliminated that feature on my car. The throttle follows my foot better without it. It makes even normal driving most consistent without it too.

@@HioSSilver1999 I think thats the big issue.. my clutch has the full throw on it no pedal stop. I know I can turn the tires by hand with the clutch 70% pushed in. I guess ill put that pedal stop on as I do have one in the cabnet.. im sure that will help alot more on the timing.. yes, pushing that clutch in all the way is probably messing up the timing of my shift.. I saw that some folks said to not fully disengauge the cluth while down shifting... helps keep the trans and motor spinning closer to the same rpm.. ill try that out bud.. ive got an rxt clutch with hyd bearing..

@@DynoTuneN20 that's where i would start. Your clutch is alot heavier than mine. If you still are using a steel flywheel then that's gonna slow the rev match process down even more. My entire clutch/flywheel assembly weighs about 16lb.

Cause the tires were wore out and got changed right after this😁

Mostly a optical delusion on that track. But it's the same for everyone that runs on it.

Sounds like a fun little truck. But as you can tell the stock ls6 cam is capable of well over 400whp.

​@@HioSSilver1999I appreciate the info.. I'm new to the ls engines.. still learning all I can and what I need to do to achieve 400 rw for a daily driver..should weigh around 31-3200 lbs complets.. stock cam in yours??

@@19jody72 yup...stock cam took me to 10.7@130ish at about 3300lb.

@@HioSSilver1999 damn bro!! That gives me hope!! I'm not building it to race, but I definitely want a 10 second daily driver..even if it's a 10:99. As long as I can get it hook..shouldn't be a problem based off your info.

@@19jody72 it's not a problem at all. Put a light clutch in it and some 3.90s. A 102 Fast intake, ewp and a good balancer and that's plenty enough to get you there with decent traction. My car was a daily, it did that on pump gas even. Shit i drove it to the track with the cruise set that day. Still had the jack and spare in it. After the 10.7 run i put a crank scraper in it, opened up the intake a bit more, added a true dual x and bypassed the ps pump and it picked up 34whp and 34wtq. Never got to run it in that configuration tho. Probably had 10.4 in it at 133 or so. Pay attention to the details and the shit no one says matters add up. It would be easy to beat my times.

05 factory efans from a junk yard

I have a vid of me pulling my dump trailer i should have uploaded a long time ago so you guys could here it with a load....along with some wot runs. I meant to just never did😁 But it's not bad really. It has a bit of resonance around 60mph then it goes away as you speed up. If you put it in 3rd and the converter locks it goes away at that speed. At high rpm it's almpst like it gets quieter in the cabin. As far as 6.0s needing rpm.....well yes and no. They are capable of rpm but once you do some mods and get rid of all the nannies in the computer they really liven up down low. Once you get rid of the dead spot in the 2500-3000 rpm range on take off they really start to get it on.....and all that is the pcm constantly pulling power with various ways of tq management. My truck has draggied a best of 15.2@94mph and that was with 285/70-17s. It still had that dead spot in it on that run, i hadn't found all of it yet. On stock tires i have no doubt it would run in the 14s. Right now i have 305/70-17 on it and that did kill it a bit. It made 1st gear way to long. I may put some 4.88 gears it. That would be slightly lower than the stock 4.10s with the oe size tire vs my 305s. I think it would really get it on then.

@@HioSSilver1999please post those videos!

@@MysteriousSystems I'll try and get a vid together for ya

I think you'll be fine doing that.

Thanks

With that big of a cam you need a real intake. It's going to want to run to about 8k rpm. The h/c ls3 we did made 560whp and about 445wtq. To be honest if you want to use a ls3 intake you're better off with a smaller cam and getting the compression up as much as possible. Btw....We've made as much as 470whp/470wtq with a bolt on ls3.

@@HioSSilver1999 i know I'd be bottle necking myself with the intake for now. Was just wondering if my described combo will brake the 500wh, i still have a stock rear end so i can't do digs yet either. I came accross i great deal on the LS2 bottom end and the 823 heads and i traded the turbo cam that came in the block for this cam. So all I'm missing now is the intake and since I'm on s budget, figured a ported by me LS3 intake would cut it for now. All in all I'll be in this motor $1500 machining included. Bottom end is assembled, my heads are coming back, just looking at what intake will make me brake 500, i never had anything faster than 350whp so this will be a big change for me regardless.

@@davidmunne4136involved hard to say what it will make. So many other factors involved. Like what pistons? weight? Ring pack? Compression? I really don't place alot of value on dyno numbers......but i do on acceleration. What's your acceleration goal? Most worry about the camshaft way more than they should. Like i said we made 470whp/470wtq with the stock ls3 cam. I've seen cammed ls3s not make that much. More importantly every time we was at the track with a stock cam ls we've been faster than the cammed stuff. Just remember tq is what moves you. The cam you have will likely reduce tq some thus reduce acceleration. What you end up with is trade offs. Less tq through the middle but more up top but the ls3 i take with those long runners don't let the cam run out. Like i said as good as the ls3 intake is below 6500-7000rpm doesn't necessarily make it a good intake for a big cam.

@@HioSSilver1999 got you, that does make sense. The LS2 bottom is completely stock just rebuilt with stock ring gap by the book. The LS3 heads are also stock just with the springs, was just wondering if I'd get away with the 500whp with the stock intake for a little while. Goal is to run 10.9 10.8 without power shifting. Of course i need a rear end and suspension for such but i want my car on the road soon since i blew my old LS1 and came accross a good deal on this setup

@@davidmunne4136 ok...high 10s is easily attainable. I went 10.7@130ish with a bolt on ls6. We went 10.5@132 with a bolt on ls3. Neither were drag cars both were full interior pump gas stick cars. So the thing is there's stuff more important than the cam.....or the heads. My car only made 417whp when it went 10.7....and it wasn't even right that day. So stop focusing on hp because hp don't really mean shit.....but that torque curve means something. You could have left that ls2 together and just did bolt ons and it would go 10s. It definitely don't need ls3 heads to do it.

Can they be attached to a shock exhaust

Thanks.....i miss it sometimes.

@@HioSSilver1999 best drag racing chassis ever made right there brother

@@lowboost9078 not really but some people like to think so.

@@HioSSilver1999 I am one of them

@@lowboost9078 don't get yourself brainwashed about them being the best. They were light and cheap.....that's about it. That's what got them a great following. The car in the vid was in very good condition when a friend bought it and we basically retored it for him. So it's chassis was in prestine condition. But on other cars that have been raced I've welded up cracks all over them. Fixed tq boxes and reinforced them. Fixed and reinforced where the seats cracked. I installed through the floor subframe connectors on this car, reinforced the torque boxes and welded up the entire rear subframe area to keep it from destroying itself. And once you get that stuff fixed and make them go pretty good then you can't stop them. The rear is pretty decent and this car has good axles in it. That's because I've seen 13sec foxes bust the axle and ruin the qtr panel. That's not what greatest drag cars are made of.....jussayin.

That 4v never made 480.....and yes this bolt on factory assembled engine made more power than that 4.sux

@@HioSSilver1999 that 4.6 made almost 500 on pump. You got proof of said claim??

@@HioSSilver1999 That 4.6 made 494 rwhp @ 7800, 368 rwtq @ 6400 rpm on a DJ… on 93 octane…@ 284 ci… and only 7.5 degrees of overlap. Did you ever figure out how many horsepower 333 lb-ft @ 7800 rpm works out to? 🤡

@@na4valve no he don't......that dyno was happy af and the car never made any passes. He's been known to lie like a rug.

@@BC08 yea....it don't work. Happy happy dyno. Post up the passes the car made.....ooohhh wait🤣🤣

Yea there was a pile of screws and goop to seal it.

Lol...not sure how that happened. I'm up in the Winchester area.

@@HioSSilver1999 ah OK I'm in NC but really close to Chesapeake area

@@swappedoutZ71 i like that area. We vacation in that area usually.

@@HioSSilver1999 yeah va beach and the nc obx beaches are a favorite of mine

It's as good as anything else or better in the price range for cars of that era.

Yea i love it.

What up Bruce!! 4gens are great!! Lol 3.90s would be a much better gear choice. They're stronger than 4.56 and won't limit speed in 4th like 4.56 will. A set of bilstein shocks if your trying to stay on a budget. If not go for the konis. That's the best bang for the buck suspension mods on these cars. Then 1le bushings in the stock lca's are a nice touch that keep it riding good. Strano parts or Detroit speed would be some good sway bars. For springs i have z28s on my car right now that i cut to lower. Strano springs are a good choice too....i might even go back to them myself. I don't have subframe connectors on my car but i did stitch weld the entire unibody on the underside of the car. That seemed to stiffen it up.

@@HioSSilver1999 Awesome I had 4.10's in my H/C Trans Am and they were great. I had 3.90's in my H/C/I C5 and they were great too. I just want something more aggressive since I don't plan on adding much more horsepower to this car. I had bilsteins and cut springs on my Trans Am and it made a huge difference. Thanks for the tips man

@@HioSSilver1999 also tell Bruce how you secretly shed 400lbs off your car by making your ‘stock parts lighter’ and put holes into your car as well then hid them 😉

Look up a gearing calculator and be sure you can still hit at least 60mph at 2000rpm in last gear with your tire size, trans, and final drive. Otherwise, you won't much like it on the highway, especially if you cruise fast on it. (60 at 2k gives you 75 at 2.5k and 90 at 3k)

Thanks.....yea there's some decent gains there. But the reality is until you get rid of the pe delays and tm in the tune they don't really show up. Last time i had the draggy on the truck it went 15.2 at 94mph. Since then i have found more pe delays and it's more responsive. It takes off now w/o the huge dead spot. But i put a larger tire on the truck so the back to back wouldn't be accurate.

​@@HioSSilver1999I hope to pick your brain about this very subject soon. I have a similar truck - 2003 ECSB 4X4 2500HD. I'm wanting to do efans, CAI, and some well thought out tuning. Headers and a small cam eventually. I don't want this truck to snowball like my 2 RCSBs

@@bluecollarhotrods9781 sure ....I'll answer anything I can for ya.

Thank you!

It's faceplated. I don't use the clutch . Just breathe the throttle to unload the trans and pull the gear.

Sweet wonder how well it will hold under boost. My 5th I’m building with twins to go single digits

My old 4th Gen was a slow 11.86@120 back in 05 with only 420 to the tire for a cam only.

@@mikes02ls1 as long as you unload the trans it will hold up fine. If it's spinning use the clutch or it will knock the dogs off. 420 is pretty good. I went 10.7@130ish at that same power level. You had alot of speed left in the car is all.

@@HioSSilver1999 Yeah I had a crappy 1.8 60ft on wore out BfG drag radials.

Nice...it's a good time down there. Although we haven't been down there for a couple years. We usually go to leesylvania state park and anywhere we can get to that we haven't been yet.

Yea i did a different tip but didn't like the way they looked so went back to these for now. These things act like bells.

@@HioSSilver1999 Sounds great

Yes....no headers either.

He does some good vids. Just leaves a little on the table power wise. But i guess all he's doing all what the customer is paying for while I'm searching for all of it for fun. Screwy part is all of it keeps changing with all these fuels out these days. All my stuff was pump gas. Cool to hear from someone in VA. I'm in the Winchester area.

@@HioSSilver1999 yea I'm in nova have a fbody and I wanna go faster seemed like you knew what you were talking bout just wanted to see if you had a shop or if I could pick your brain about my ls1

@@hatedonalot9080 i used to have a shop for about 12yrs. What do you have done to your ls1?

@@HioSSilver1999 ls6 intake headers exhaust tune stage2 clutch high pressure oil pump cai

And Mickeys all four corners 315s in the back

Thanks....the tires on it in the vid are 285/70 17s. I have had 295/70 17s on it before and now i have 305/70 17s on it. Overall the 295s probably fit the truck the best. I've raised it up a little to get the 305s to fit via the torsion bars but still on stock keys and I put 1.5" blocks under the back to help keep it level when loaded.

@@HioSSilver1999 I have been looking at 285 70s.recently got a set of h2s for my truck(04 2500hd)appreciate the reply!

I hope so!

Ive watched the mustangtown vids! We probably know some of the same people....like Nate rip.

Thanks!! Yup old tpi vette.

@@HioSSilver1999 I absolutely love the Tuned Port Injected Corvettes. Back in the late ‘80s they were state of the art sports cars. I remember racers would take them to the Silver State Classic and other open road races in the desert and run those suckers up to 160mph and they were planted like old slot cars lol.

@@JohnnyButtons yup....i sold that one because it was a auto. It ran great tho. I've looking for one with a stick. I'd love to have another one.

Thanks man...it was quite a bit of work.