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Thanks so much for watching! If it were me I would Ctrl+L to bring up the Levels function. Then I would select the Green channel in the dropdown and adjust the middle slider slightly to the left or right. This should hopefully help you balance the levels more and get rid of the green tint. You could also instead either adjust the right or left slider slightly, just make sure you don’t clip the data and bring it past the histogram. Hope that helps, and feel free to ask any more questions, I’ll do my best to answer! Thank you!

Lol, thank you for the watch!

@theheavensdeclareastro Your welcome, I shot a photo that basically looks like the photo you took with a $300 telescope and my phone somehow, now I just use my camera and a tracker

Awesome, love to hear it! Yeah trackers are a game changer! Clear skies!

​@@theheavensdeclareastro I meant with a crappy tracker that doesn't have a polar scope and has a motor that barely works 😅

Hey, well if it works it works! 😅

Thank you so much for the support, I’m glad you liked it!

It was either Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist, I can’t remember. But I always say to be careful-both for your own safety and for scams, because unfortunately they are all too common. Hope that helps!

Thanks for watching! Depending on the camera you have, 10,000 ISO may still be tenable-if it were me, I would try to stack each set and see which one works better! There are also options to combine the different ISO exposures all into one image, but if you do that make sure you use Groups in DSS. That way it will match your calibration frames appropriately to the light frames. Hope that helps!

Sure, I’ll try to help! What camera did you use to take the photos?

Thank you for the watch and for the support!!

What type of camera do you have?

@theheavensdeclareastro sony a6000

I think it should have something called Clear Zoom (aka digital zoom) but after looking it up online I think it’s only 2x zoom (mine in the tutorial goes 10x). Maybe that’s what it doesn’t look as zoomed in?

Have you tried to adjust the slider to make it more sensitive and pick up more stars?

Are they red after the stack?

No when i want to regist them the Lightfranes are red and i dont know why​@@theheavensdeclareastro

I would go ahead and continue stacking them. DSS may sometimes show previews that aren’t color balanced, that’s okay, that will be taken care of after in Photoshop. Let me know how it goes, feel free to ask any more questions!

I cant stack them i dont know why . Do you have Instagramn maybe i can send you a picture from my laptop and you can show me it better​@@theheavensdeclareastro

What is the error that is preventing the stacking? Also, double check that all the light frames are checked (when you import into DSS, it will not automatically check them)

Thank you!!

Thank you for watching! Yeah I think many people that start out imaging deep sky objects without a tracking mount as I did eventually want to increase the capabilities of their equipment and upgrade to the tracking mount. But I’m all for starting out like this because many people have this type of equipment already and there are many objects you can image with a simple setup. I’m hoping to make some more tutorials along those lines. Thank you again for the watch!

lol not quite. NASA also uses Photoshop to process their data. And if you use the free trial of Photoshop no need to pay for the continued subscription. Thanks for the watch!

So glad it was helpful! Thank you for the support!

Thank you for the watch and the support!!

Awesome!

I think so! You won’t get as narrow of a field of view, but you’ll be able to take longer exposures (and you may get more data if you are using a faster lens with a lower f-stop). Hope that helps!

And I thank you for watching and for the kind words!!

Good question! You will have to do your best to recenter Orion every 10-20 frames. DSS should be able to do the rest and align them into one stacked image. Hope that helps!

Thank you for watching! I’m glad to hear you enjoyed it!

Awesome! Feel free to ask any questions and I’ll do my best to answer!

Thank you for watching!!

You would have to take very quick exposures if the dob isn’t on a tracking mount. That could definitely make it difficult to capture much detail since you will be significantly limited by exposure time. Hope that helps!

Thank you so much for the sub, I’m glad you enjoyed it!!

I’m so glad to hear that!! Clear skies! 😃

You should be able to follow this tutorial for a mirrorless or DSLR camera! You’ll just have to adjust based on the size of your sensor and how long you can expose your photos without stars trailing.

I’m so glad to hear you enjoyed the video! Best wishes, and feel free to ask any questions that may come up! Clear skies!

Thank you so much for watching! You could probably use a 16GB SD card-that will probably be enough. Some cameras have a little photo count on the display that tells you how many photos you can take before your card is full-might help you figure out what kind of space you need. Hope that helps!!

Thank you for the feedback and for watching!

Sorry to hear that 😔 are you photographing from a lot of light pollution?

Thanks for watching! Yeah, I love mine-I’ve used it on several astro projects.

So glad to hear it was helpful!!

@ dude. You processing levels are so far past mine I. Will have too watch them 1000 times I rekon. Love my 50 and 14 wide. Never tried but have many other lenses. Canon 100-400 ,and r7 kit lens as well. Cheers mate

⁠what would be a good place to look Sth with my camera. Have a good view and I Sth hemisphere. Kimberly west Australia. Thankyou

@@TimLeary-rw3oq Feel free to ask any questions! And there are many other far-more skilled astrophotographers than I on RUclips, so there are many great resources!

@@TimLeary-rw3oqIt depends--try to find an area with fewer trees/building so you have a clearer view of the night sky and it's less light polluted. Because you are in the Southern Hemisphere, I would also recommend you could use the same approach to photograph the bright Carina Nebula. We can't see that from the Northern Hemisphere, and it's definitely one of the gems of the Southern Hemisphere, so be sure to check it out! You may have to stay up later in the night thought to catch it this time of the year. Best wishes!

I’m so glad you found it helpful!! Thank you for the support, and it’s great to hear you’re getting into Astro! Feel free to ask any questions and I’ll try my best to answer!

Bias frames and flat frames should be fine (assuming your lens or camera did not accumulate any dust throughout the days). Dark frames should be taken at the same temperature as your light frames-so if there were big fluctuations in temperature you may want to add in some additional dark frames. You’ll have to be careful though to stack those with just the same temperature lights. Hope that helps!

@@theheavensdeclareastro thank you for your reply and than how to stack them ? All at once ?

@@januszciechowskiphotograph7297 you should be able to use Deep Sky Stacker’s feature that allows you stack in groups to combine the different sets of images at once.

I’m so glad you appreciated it, thank you for the kind words!!

I’m so glad you enjoyed it!! Thank you so much for watching!!

The difficult part about doing this is that scope I believe is 400mm, and if you don’t have a tracking mount your exposures will have to be even shorter than they are with the 70-300 (less than 1 second) so you may not be able to capture as much signal in your image.

@@theheavensdeclareastro So basically the cheaper option will be with 70-300 :)

@@theheavensdeclareastro btw I got 18-55 & 35mm (f/1.8) and the area where I live, it's Bortle Class 4. What will you recommend?

@@ruthyonaef if it were me, I would start with what you have. I started with a camera and tripod and lenses I had and got some decent photos. When I realized I wanted to get more into the hobby, then I looked at getting another lens and/or a tracking mount or star tracker. The tracker is a gamer changer and lets you take longer exposures, which is really helpful for Astro, especially from darker skies. Hope that helps!

Thank you so much, glad to hear you enjoy them!!

Thank you so much for watching, and for the really kind words!! I really appreciate it!

I think so! You may not get as much detail as it will not be a longer focal length, but on the other hand you can take longer untracked exposures. That type of lens would be very suitable for Milky Way photography.

@@benjaminlipson4313 thank you for the suggestion! I may in the future!

It’s not the same interface, but Siril is a great alternative for stacking that is also free!

@@theheavensdeclareastro Perfectly

Thank you so much, I really appreciate all the support!! It means a lot to hear! Let me know if you have any questions and I’ll do my best to answer!

That would work fine! Best wishes, and feel free to ask any more questions!

Thank you for the kind words, I really appreciate it! The dark frames specifically should be taken at the same temperature as your photos-so if that changes significantly, then I would retake them. The flat frames can help capture dust, which can change as your shutter actuates and as you use your camera and lens over time you may get more dust on your sensor. You probably don’t have to take the flat frames every time, but I would retake them as needed (like if dust smudges start showing up in your photos in places they were not previously). Hope that helps!

@@theheavensdeclareastrohello thank you for answering my question. I fully understand it now. I really appreciate the fact that you are still answering questions on a 3 year old video, that doesn’t happened often. Keep it up and have a nice day 👍🏻👍🏻

@@rinzeaittaleb3511 of course, it’s all about helping others enjoy it as well! Take care and clear skies!

Thank you so so much, I really appreciate the very kind words and the sub!!!

😦😦🫢🫢

Omg fr