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Thank you and yes I do. I plan to install an identical one with a small addition on my next one which will be filtering well water. -Dutch

We didn't have any problems with the cv axle boots up until it was sold about a year ago. Keen eye though! I appreciate the observation and wish you the best with your upcoming car projects. -Dutch

Awesome to hear my friend! So glad it helped you out. 🙂 -Dutch

Thank you! Glad the video was helpful. -Dutch

I am super happy it was able to help you out! -Dutch

Literally my first time soldering. Good thing I didn't title it "Best Way To Solder" 😂Appreciate the feedback. -Dutch

Thank you for the feedback! -Dutch

You are welcome! Glad the video helped. -Dutch

Thank you for watching the video and for the kind words! I hope this corrects your problem. Feel free to let me know. -Dutch

@@dutchmenmodsandrepairs1427 okay, so I replaced the old IACV that I believed to not be working with the one that was working just fine with my old setup with the k20a3 manifold, it started up like it used to, then after about two minutes started the idle search between 1200 and 2400 rpms. I am at a loss. I have kpro, so I'm going to investigate a bit into what I could do with that. Maybe run a civic SI base map on kmanager... I dunno.

Ok so I’m a bit of an idiot. My air temperature sensor is not plugged in. I have an extension cable coming so I’ll report back as soon as I get everything sorted.

@@davidwolf4267 I would be careful with changing anything in KPRO. Keep it simple. You replaced a number of components that can all have impacts to correct idling because of vacuum leaks. I would go back to each of those items and make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks. If you don't have a smoke machine, sometimes you can use an incense stick or something else that has a steady stream of light smoke. Move it around connection points or potential leak points and see if the smoke gets pulled into an area. If it does, you have found a leak. Remember that hunting is being caused 9 out of 10 times by a lean condition. There is extra air/oxygen being introduced into the combustion process that the computer is not calculating for. So the engine will hunt from too much fuel being called for to too little. Always go back to "what did I do last." -Dutch

@@davidwolf4267 no worried my firiend! We all make these mistakes. I have had more than enough for sure, but that is also how we learn! Keep me posted! -Dutch

Thank you! -Dutch

Hi there! Thank you for watching the video and hopefully this will indeed help you fix your problem. We actually just looked on ebay for a seller with a high rating and purchased from them. -Dutch

The floor jack we had for this is very narrow so we were able to work it in under the lower control arm and jack up each side and then place a jack stand.

Not a bad idea at all. Thank you for the feedback! -Dutch

You are welcome! -Dutch

Good information to hear! Thank you for sharing. -Dutch

I think you are talking about the thin metal piece? I am not 100% sure of its function. My uneducated guess would be that you are probably okay for the short term, but I would make plans to put it back on as soon as you possibly can....just to be safe and have all original parts back in place. -Dutch

How true!

Thank you!

Hello and thank you for your thoughts. The video's purpose was strictly to show the binding strength of SB8. I will disagree with you on one point and that is your thickness point. Thickness in brazing does not also mean pressure confirmation or strength. Both means of joining require a pressure test and I believe I even mention that in the video (maybe the long video is where I state that). I do appreciate your observations and in taking the time to share things that should be considered in these types of joining. Cheers! -Dutch

From a local landscaping supply business.

Glad it helped you out! -Dutch

Thank you for the kind words and for watching the video. Glad it helped you out! -Dutch

Very helpful. Thanks!!!!

Thank you for some additional information. By chance do you have that bulb part#? -Dutch

Hello! Thank you for watching the video and for the compliment. Yes, once I replaced the condenser and recharged the hissing sound went away. And it has not come back (fingers crossed!). Let me know how it goes! -Dutch

Hello! My initial guess would that it could. I believe Staybrite solder is lead-free (which is what you want for water lines) and household water pressure is significantly less than refrigerant systems. I would do some research before diving in feet first. Google "Stay-Brite8 soldering copper water lines." See if that can get you started. Good luck! -Dutch

Sure you can, but a "kit" i.e. - 1 lb roll of Stay-brite #8 and the flux for it, will set you back about $100.

Awesome job! -Dutch

Hello! The job would probably take about 2-3 hours (or less if you have all the tools in place and you are proficient at using them). The replacement part cost about $100. -Dutch

Hello, I believe the code was P0505 (that was awhile back). We got the part from Advance Auto. Good luck! -Dutch

Good luck and definitely let me know how it goes. -Dutch

Great question! I can't say 100% for sure if I would or wouldn't basically because I am not super familiar with how the overall cold climate would impact things. I would take into consideration mostly how much ice melt and refreeze or rain and freeze would impact the rocks. If there is good flow and ground absorption for runoff then I'd think you'd be okay. -Dutch

Glad you discovered your root cause! To help with the corrosion you can use dielectric grease, but just a light coating. Or you can try the red spray stuff (I forget the name), but it can end up over a wide area because of it spraying out. Thanks for watching and for sharing what you found! -Dutch

Good luck! -Dutch

@@dutchmenmodsandrepairs1427 I didn't realize solder was given such a bad name. Elitist brazing folks didn't know cherry red on the pipe may not be so good, hurting a txv or valve is no bueno. Or burning right through.

Hello! I believe we ended up getting just a tad over 1 cubic yard of the #57 washed granite and then my wife got another 1/2 cubic yard of #89 limestone for some decorative fill to match what we would do on our hardscaping around the hot tub. We got the stone from a local landscaping supply company. Hope this information helps! -Dutch

Hello! I used scotch brite pads to brush up both sides of the pipe and then cleaned with 100% isopropyl alcohol. Added flux, pushed together and hit with heat and then solder to flow in. Also, make sure you do not use too much flux. Just a light brushing of it to both surfaces. If you use to much, it is possible you'll flow your solder right through the joint and have little bonding. -Dutch

@@dutchmenmodsandrepairs1427 THANK YOU FOR YOUR PROMPT , DETAILED REPLY !!!!

You probably roasted the flux out of the joint by getting it far too hot.

What are you using. Staybrite #8 with stay flux acid? Other than that your gonna have alot of issues. 😅. And he also used to much heat. Should also only use the length of solder equivalent to the size of pipe your soldering together. So 3/8 liquid line joint only needs 3/8 inches of solder to fill said joint. Try a good map gas torch with the yellow map gas bottle. More than enough heat to do the job. 😅

@@zackaryhall1271 appreciate the feedback. This was my first attempt soldering. Totally agree with you input! -Dutch

Couldn't agree more! Thanks for watching and for the feedback. -Dutch

Hi there and thank you for watching the video. If you know the tonnage of your evaporator, you can typically look up a chart that will give you a range of orifice sizes that will work for that rating. Don't quote me on that, but I believe I have seen something like that online. Best of luck! -Dutch

If that is an exact sound you are hearing, then the ac system is low on freon. If you have a leak, you'll be back to hearing that sound in the future if you only add freon to the system. Finding the leak will need to be a project in your not too distant future, unfortunately.

@dutchmenmodsandrepairs1427 I took it to jiffy lube they did a leak test before refill. Glad it passed the leak test.

@@Rydrdg good to hear you just needed a top off on Freon! That is a win!!

@dutchmenmodsandrepairs1427 I spoke too soon. The hissing noise is back, and now it's just hot air blowing. I checked the vent gears, and it's not broken. I hope it's not the compressor....

@@Rydrdg it really sounds like you have a leak. I know Jiffy Lube did a leak test, but honestly that isn't exactly the place I'd go for a systems check (done that before). My other thought is also that unless it is the compressor that is leaking, it isn't the problem e.g. not working correctly. You had the hissing sound and luke warm air. Jiffy Lube topped it off and everything worked fine for awhile until the hissing sound returned with even hotter air blowing. This would tell me there is a leak. Now comes the challenging part in finding out where it is leaking. There are UV top off kits that you can use to put freon and a UV dye into your system and then use either UV dye glasses or a special pen (they should come with the kit) to locate where the leak is. I have a video in my Cherokee AC playlist where I show the results of putting the dye in my system and finding my root problem leak. Best of luck in getting this figured out before it gets much hotter out there. -Dutch

I would agree. First time doing it, so I will cut myself some slack. Appreciate you watching the video. -Dutch

Hello and thank you for watching the video. When we purchased the car the button was missing. The previous owner told us he went in the store one day, came back out and when he pushed the button the car didn't attempt to start at all. If you can remote start the car that will tell you the button is bad. If you can't use your FOB to unlock doors or anything like that, then it is likely your FOB needs a new battery. The other option is to pop the button out (if that is possible) and use the FOB key to start the car (again if that is an option). I hope some of this information helps you out. -Dutch

@@dutchmenmodsandrepairs1427 Thank you for this information. I continue to have issues with my car starting. It says wrong key, or will start and then die, I have a light flash in the dash (part of the security module). I have replaced the batteries in both key fobs recently, and that hasn't fixed the issue. Truthfully was wondering if it was the win module going back in the car. Then yesterday it wouldn't start, saying wrong key when I pushed the button and then it wouldn't shut off using the push button. So I popped the button out and put my fob in and the car started right up. So this is what has led me to do more research and was wondering if the push button is bad. A much cheaper fix if this is the case. This is why I was asking how to know if the button is bad. I will give the remote start a try as well. Any additional information you can provide would be great. Thank you :)

@@mistymetzger3909 if you can start the car no problems with the button out and using the "emergency key" start, then you can lean pretty heavily in the direction that the button is not working. The car still reads the FOB even when using the key. That is the security side of starting the car. The button is literally a "dumb device" with no circuitry in it. It's job is just to make it easier to "turn the key on." I hope this helps! -Dutch

@@dutchmenmodsandrepairs1427 Thank you!

Great question! I didn't have it in my video description and I apologize! Thank you for keeping me honest. I added it to the video description and here as well. Thank you for watching the video.- Dutch www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0799NVB4Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hello and thank you for the feedback! I am not sure about always, but there certainly is the possibility especially if the battery post has been compromised in some way e.g. wire brushed to remove corrosion, but that also removes post material. All in all I think we can agree on at least one thing...it is overall a pretty poor design that causes a lot of people grief! Thanks for watching the video and for the comment. -Dutch

I really appreciate this input from you! As a matter of time, I have started to experience these symptoms with another odd one that has my eye and hear a bit closer on a root cause. The additional symptom I am talking about is a remote start that actually causes a very slight backfire (and I do mean slight) and also a longer than usual start after that. I will be looking into this a bit more and I really do appreciate you sharing that with me and the community! -Dutch