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I started my doors today and something doesn’t seem right. My aft trim strips appear to be white as are yours, but the lower and forward pieces are clear plastic with white film on the outside with writing on it. I peeled off the film and the pieces are clear. That didn’t concern me too much as I will probably paint them anyway, but my forward trim piece isn’t even close to being the right angle for the door. I aligned the top leg and found the angle at the knee to be way off. The bottom end of the forward trim strip is more than 3/4” off of alignment. Yours appears to align fine in your video. I can force the bottom into position, but it makes the trim strip wavy and slight buckled at the knee. Did you have any such issue? It didn’t appear so from your video.

I found when fitting my wingtips that an orbital sander worked great for the final finishing. You can use 80 grit initially and then move down as you get closer. The orbital is much less aggressive than a belt sander, but quite a bit faster than hand sanding. And as long as you keep it moving and are careful, you can sand very straight lines even though it isn’t long and flat like a belt sander or hand sanding block. And my DeWalt does a great job of sucking the dust through the holes in the pad so it makes much less dust than either a belt or hand sanding block.

I am planning to run my Rotax a few times before installing my cowl for exactly the reason you mentioned. I suspect the vibration will seat the engine mounts and likely induce some amount of sag. The Rotax vibrates less than the Titan and has different engine mounts, but I think any elastomeric mount is going to settle with vibration first and then with age.

I noticed on ours that the fwd edge of the lower aluminum boot cowl skins were not 100% straight. Keep that in mind when trying to sand (straight) the aft vertical edge of the lower cowl.

At 2:50…I placed a fairly large dab of red RTV silicone sealant right on the corner where the hose goes around. Let it dry and it becomes a permanent cushion. Stole the idea from a brother who is AP/IA.

I noticed the same thing with the foam and VHB. The parts manual shows only VHB and the figures manual shows only foam tape. Well, the parts manual shows it off the side, but not in position. I suspect using both is the way to go, although, VHB alone might work. Not sure it would get pressed tightly enough against the plastic without the foam. I even checked the current manuals on the web site and they seem to still be the same as my 4 year old manual set.

Joggle juggling? I've heard of this! 400 vids? Congrats!

Wow! 400, thats a lot of data! Congrats, you are getting close to being done.

Wait till you get to the fasteners I fit everything up and let it air for a cupa weeks before the fasteners Thanks for the videos

Nothing a little bondo won’t fix at the end. 😁

Remember that the engine sags a bit, so you want the spinner higher by 1/4"-3/8" on first installation. At the open house, I saw many S-21s, mine included, with spinners lower than the top of the cowl due to this.

I truly enjoy your videos. Unlike most other creators you show work WITHOUT a bunch of unnecessary commentary. Your dedication to DAILY work is equally impressive.

Love the build. Please consider a mask when cutting carbon. Vacuum cleaner or not....

Yes enjoying videos. You two are awesome.

Worked with a guy that came to work an hour early for years on the _Monday_ after the time change. But never mind that. the plane looks great!

Good idea not to push things too far when making critical cuts. Never hurts to sleep on it.

Almost certainly overkill on the hose clamps. In 55 years of using worm gear style hose clamps, I’ve never seen one work loose. The biggest failure mode for these style clamps is over tightening them. This distorts the screw thread slots and deforms the worm gear housing and that can lead to failure.

Careful…don’t be messing with Project Manager. 😂

Just curious, why did you choose a two blade prop and not a tri blade prop?

Your videos are the bomb.

Did you have a way to spin the unit before final drilling to check that there wasn’t any nose wobble in the spinner?

Makes me glad my Airmaster came with a nice chrome spinner that just screwed on. 😁

You are getting closer & closer to an engine start. Please remember to install the alternator belt before you do the final prop install. It is pain to remove the prop to replace or install the belt, been there, done that.

What's all the hubbub, bud? Looking good!

You may have posted this on another video but can’t find it. Where did you find the panel trim strip?

I would bet that Clint at Vetterman would move the fitting on the heat muffler for you at some saving$.

I had fun running the heater hoses for my Rotax heater and they are just 3/4” heater hoses for water. Looks like you are having even more fun running your SCAT tubing than I had with my heater hoses. The water hoses are much smaller, but they are also much stiffer and getting the spring clamps on them was fun to say the least.

You bought all of those Aerosport parts and you are worried about $400 for a heater muffler? 😁

That is beautiful! You two are doing really nice work. You will be able to fly it with lots of confidence.

You’ll never use that handheld radio. I wouldn’t have the extra equipment flopping around.

There are some (maybe earlier) heater boxes, that have offset inlet/ outlets. I felt that might make running the hose easier. Ours is like yours and I ended up trimming the inner corner of the oil cooler bracket to keep it from rubbing. I also used two sets of clamps on the intakes.

Use baking soda and super glue on the back side of that crack in that plastic interior panel. Look into this method, it works great.

Whoowhoo first again. Lol.

I found putting clecoes in the top bolt holes of the baggage close out gives you something to grip on and makes getting it in and out a ‘little’ easier too.

I am contemplating using latex caulk initially so that I can more easily remove it for painting and then silicone afterwards for the permanent sealant.

I have been watching some of your video.... and i love what you do cause i have a designed plan i aslo want to build⭐

On the inside, couldn’t you paint the 2216 black, with a long thin brush to make it disappear? To fill the voids on the sides without the 2216 keep disappearing, squeeze some out on cardboard (like you did), wait for it to set up a bit (get thicker) and then fill the voids with a spreader. It will be more like body filler. I did this on the ends, worked great.

I wish the windshield and skylight were held on with screws to facilitate replacement in the future, but I understand this would add some amount of weight. I also wish the wings were more easily removed and not have the windshield strips riveted to them. I am still trying to decide if there is a way I can test fly my airplane in bare aluminum and then remove the wings to bring it home for painting. It looks like the RANS design makes this impossible to do without drilling out a lot of rivets.

Yes, that is the downside of drilling small holes and then enlarging them. Twist drills almost always catch one cutting edge before the other and that throws the drill off ever so slightly when drilling by hand. I have yet to find a good way to overcome that and that is why most holes are fairly oversized compared to the fastener. Unless you can match drill the mating parts, using “close fit” holes is very problematic.

I know this is an older video now, but do you recall if you put the engine mount spacers on both of the lower, outer engine mounts? My parts diagram for the Rotax 915 engine calls out two spacers on the parts list, but shows only one spacer on the diagram, namely on the lower, left engine mount (left if you are inside the cabin looking forward). I assume both lower mounts get the spacer, but am trying to confirm. I have an email in to RANS, but getting replies has been hit or miss in the past. It is probably a different page number on your Titan engine manual, but I am referring to the Engine Mount Spacer part number KPAC0279.

Need to use the fine line vinyl painters tape to smoothly mask curves like that.

I wish RANS would provide a template for the windshield contact zone so we could paint things ahead of time prior to windshield fitment, but looks like I need to wait until them to mark and paint or cover the inside of the boot cowl. Seems like it would be easy to pull a template out of the CAD system for the contact zone of the windshield and strip.

Decide to just leave the top of the boot cowl painted? I am painting most of my interior, but contemplating some cloth and maybe thin padding for the top of the boot cowl for noise reduction.

Taking that blue tape off was a great feeling. Like it’s actually coming to an end 😎

Thanks Tony. Mine was restricting the elevator too and I did not notice it as I did the elevator rigging with the cone off. So good find. Thank you.

Get the MSD crimper (MSD 35051) and shorten the (too long) plug wires. Super satisfying, lol. Great stuff T’n T, getting close 🤞

Is your concern strength of the rivets with the holes that close to the edge? Or is it a clearance issue of some sort? You have nothing to worry in regard to strength. That edge distance is more than adequate for a nonstructural fairing. No worries in that regard. The normal edge distance requirement is for structural reasons.

Did you countersink the carbon fiber rib for the nut plate rivets?

Oohhh, big step right there. Looks great. I’ve seen 3 and 4 rivets on other builds on the bottom of that strip. I used 3 (w/ Eddies blessing), mostly to keep the 3/8” line consistent. I also trimmed the entire strip to 2 1/2” to make more work for myself, lol.

enjoy watching videos and Derek and Clear Direct and Tree Top Flight and Out Bound 300 (haven't seen much from he lately) you are doing a good job. always look forward to your video. one day ill be there to and going back and watching all of the videos for help.