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You're welcome! Unfortunately, as far as I can tell, you're limited to Auto mode when pressing the video record button in photo mode. The only settings that you can change are in the menu under page 10 of the first (photo) tab. Thankfully the switch to go between photo and video is very easy to access, but it would have been nice to have extra custom video settings even in photo mode.

Absolutely! It’s a great camera and certainly got some fantastic images at the weddings I used it on. Just make sure you have some extra batteries if you plan on using it on longer sessions.

@@blytheandkarry thank you so much! Is there one lens in particular that you would recommend for someone starting out in that type of photos?

The first lens I would recommend buying is the RF 35mm f1.8. After that, the RF 85mm f2 would be a great second lens for portraits. You can pick up both of those refurbished directly from Canon for $700. I've bought quite a few things refurbished from Canon and they all arrived looking brand new. I haven't found any zoom lenses under $1k that are worth recommending, so sticking to primes would be your best option until you're ready to step up to a good quality zoom lens. The new RF 28-70 f2.8 @ $1,100 looks like a solid choice, but still not as good at low light shooting as a prime lens.

@@blytheandkarry thank you so much! That’s super helpful!

Glad you enjoyed it. You’re welcome!

Glad you were able to get something out of it. Yikes, yes, card holders are worthwhile investments if you’re carrying around cards that aren’t in your camera. This video was mainly aimed at the digital aspect of memory cards, but the physical aspect is just as important!

Thanks for the comments! I do agree that to be 100% certain the card is good, running a test is a good idea. However, for me personally, as long as it's from a trusted source, I'm probably not going to do that. Yes, with higher capacity cards, they should be able to get more use out of them. But is it worth the substantially higher price tag? For me, I'd like to stick to a lower capacity card AS LONG AS I have ample storage space for what I'm going to be recording to it. With "smaller" cards, I'm not going to worry about putting off retiring the card because of the cost. Also, with the rate of technology advancement, upgrading more often will help keep the latest and greatest card tech and speeds. And yes, you're not wrong about the "holes" in the card wearing certain sectors more, but I'd be more worried about random writes slowing the card more than a freshly formatted card operating a peak speed with sequential writes. Unless you're writing an insane amount of data to a card, I doubt any reliable SD card will fail if you are mindful about replacing/upgrading on a regular basis.

But is there a better option at the sub $1k price point?

@@blytheandkarry I prefer xt3

It’s not a bad choice, but not quite comparable since it’s not full frame. Typically crop sensor cameras are significantly cheaper.

Deleting individual images shouldn’t damage SD cards, but it can cause the card to not operate at peak speed if it’s performing random writes (versus sequential writes). And yes, that was the main point that you can’t recover lost images if you accidentally delete one (theoretically you may be able to as long as you don’t write over that sector, but not guaranteed). But also my personal opinion, it’s way easier to hit one button to reject in Lightroom than to hit a minimum of three buttons to delete individual images in-camera. Just to do everything we can to prevent data loss with my client’s images, we always back up all the RAW files to an external drive before any culling.

That’s great that you haven’t had any failures, and neither have I. But, I know that’s not the case for many others.

You’re welcome! Yes, I was a bit nervous buying it that it wouldn’t work for my needs. But, the price was too good when it went on sale not to at least give it a try.

It makes sense, but I’m going to disagree with you on that one. For one, an 8GB card would only hold about 9.5 minutes of 4K video from my camera. Second, what happens when you’re on an important photo shoot and miss the shot because you ran out of space because the 8GB card can only hold 292 RAW images? Lastly, it seems like having multiple full cards hidden would be very easy to lose and therefore lose important images!

@@blytheandkarry Today that would be 4 pcs 32 GB SD cards. The problems you mention just do not apply to me. Nor for the type of pictures I take anyway. But your points are valid nonetheless,

It will do 4K in 24, 30, and 60fps in NTSC and 25, 50 in PAL.

As you probably noticed from my thumbnail, I only buy SanDisk as well. I have some non-pro cards that I use for personal photography, but stick to the Pro versions for all paid shoots. I would assume the reason your camera only deletes from one card is that image review is viewing images from one card at a time. And yes, I know there are times that it’s obvious a certain image doesn’t make the cut. But to me, it’s much easier (and safer) to hit one button for a non-destructive “reject” of an image or video on my computer than to spend time on site (and perhaps miss an important moment) culling with a minimum of three button presses per image to permanently delete (or if you do have dual cards, even though it’s not permanent, it would probably take a fair amount of time to find an accidentally deleted image). One other reason I didn’t mention in the video to not delete in-camera is that your camera will write at full speed when it’s writing sequentially to the card. When you delete individual photos and the camera starts writing to random sectors, it may not be able to write at its full rated speed. Most people probably wouldn’t ever notice, especially with photos. But when shooting high bit rate video or burst photos, you may experience issues. My main reason for making this video was for people just starting out, especially with cameras that just have single SD card slots. I feel like most of the SD card failure horror stories are from people who don’t follow the first tip, and buy knock off or counterfeit cards. But, I feel like the other tips are valuable information to be aware of when starting a photography or videography hobby or career.

I feel like poor quality or counterfeit cards are probably the main reason people have issues, hence why it was first on my list. I would definitely trust all 3 of those vendors to have legit cards. I think formatting between every session isn’t always necessary as long as you have enough storage for how many pictures you’re going to be taking, but it’s also not going to hurt anything. I always format before a wedding, but if it’s a small session I may or may not, depending on how full the card is.

Sometimes people just see lower prices and don’t realize there’s a substantial difference in reliability.

That’s a great way to make sure you have a clear file allocation table for the card to operate at maximum speed every time!

Thanks

Is there a reason you don't like cards over 64GB? I have to use 128GB or larger cards when shooting video, especially now that I shoot everything in 4K, although I could easily get by with a 64GB card for photos. I certainly agree with backing everything up on an external drive! We always transfer from the cards onto the computer and external drive simultaneously, then also keep the RAW files on the SD cards until we've delivered the client gallery.

@@blytheandkarry i agree 💯 with you on all that ..getting new everything soon ..have the incredible Canon SX 70 HS this week . Just (Imo)paranoid about such massive sizes ..I've been frugal so far ..but all my amazing stuff from 2 years are on two cards right now .. scary 😳 so I'm buying more .just got rare red racoons on vid ..

If you’re carrying around SD cards that aren’t in a camera, yes, keeping them in a case is a great way to prevent physical damage to the card itself!

@@blytheandkarry the little things count :) thanks

In my opinion, that is quite wasteful to replace cards with each wedding, even if they are relatively inexpensive. These cards are designed for multiple thousands of write cycles. A hundred or so cycles from a couple of year’s worth of weddings isn’t going to get close to failure on a quality card. Also, I’m sure the failure rate of new cards is VERY low. But I would trust a card I’ve used several times more than a card I haven’t personally tested yet.

@@blytheandkarry Wouldn't you give the memory card with the agreed paid images to your client, hence no waste? I'm no photographer, but I'm sure the client would be happy to receive this and therefore no waste.

We always deliver all of our images via an online gallery. I think it's a much better client experience and allows for them to easily share photos with family and friends. I haven't ever heard of a gallery being delivered on an SD card. Not everyone has access to an SD card reader and they're fairly easy to lose. Some photographers used to deliver images on a USB stick, but that's a bit outdated since basically everyone access to high speed internet. It is true that individual cards are relatively cheap, but if you do the math things don't look quite so good. Since we're using 3-4 cameras to capture a wedding (plus photos from the engagement session captured on 2 cameras), with dual card slots on two of those cameras, that's between 8-10 SD cards that we would need for each wedding!!! We also never deliver RAW images, so even if we did use the SD cards for the gallery, we'd have to erase them before transferring the exported files. But since RAW files take up significantly more space, we're typically averaging between 16-32GB per camera/card when capturing, but the total size of the entire exported gallery is only around 5-10GB.

@@blytheandkarry Thanks for the explanation, it's a great insight to a profession unknown to me!

You're welcome!

Most of the audio was with the RODE VideoMic NTG shotgun microphone, unless otherwise labeled.

Just trying to help people make informed decisions on gear. I've switched all of my non-studio audio recording to the RODE Wireless Pro, but I'm still keeping the TX660 for those occasional instances that its form factor is needed.

You're welcome! I know the Nikon D610 was a solid workhorse back in the day, but you'll be blown away with how much things have improved since then.

It is a HUGE upgrade from the 77D! Being full frame vs APS-C sensor is the biggest difference for photos, giving you a better depth of field, but also better low light than the 77D. Video is where the most improvement is, being able to capture 4K versus just 1080p before. There's quite a few other reasons it's better, but those are the two biggest to me. Obviously like I said in the video, I prefer the R6 Mk II. But the R8 is a great compromise if you don't need the pro features of the R6 (and R1, R3, R5, etc). You will have to make sure you have full frame lenses (no EF-S or RF-S). And get an adapter (EF to RF) if you plan on using older EF glass.

You’re welcome!

Nice! Hopefully I was able to help your decision a little with my review.

@@blytheandkarry Your review was reassurance that I made the right purchase.👊🏿

I only had one genuine Canon battery since I wasn’t convinced I wanted to keep the camera long-term when I bought it, so I wasn’t able to fully test every option. However, something that I didn’t mention in the video was that, if I started out with a single battery in the grip (genuine or third party) and power cycled the camera, then put a second battery in the grip, there wasn’t a warning and the battery level was showing like normal. BUT, the battery level it read was not accurate. It read full until shortly before the camera died, so it was almost as useless as not having any battery level indication. I didn’t mention that in the video because it shouldn’t be necessary to have a whole procedure just to change batteries. I’m guessing that, since Canon didn’t make a battery grip for it, the camera is only going off the voltage drop of the two batteries in parallel. Since both batteries together have a much larger capacity, the camera won’t see a voltage drop until both get fairly low.

I’m cringing just reading this. I’m assuming this was a recent occurrence? But that would be a good standard practice if you have a habit of putting SD cards in your pocket.🫣 I prefer to leave the cards in the camera until I get back to my desk, if at all possible. If I do have to take them out, I try to always use the protective case they all come with to prevent any physical damage to the card. Water shouldn’t affect SD cards short term, but may cause corrosion long term. I can’t imagine tumbling in a hot dryer would be much better for it.

@@blytheandkarry Only once with a Nikon. Otherwise just trail cam SD card.

@@blytheandkarry: I put my spare SD cards in with my batteries in with those little clear plastic cases, it makes it less like for me to lose them.

It’s great camera for the price! I was surprised at its spec sheet and price point when it was first released, and almost wished I had gotten two of them instead of the R6II. But, after finding out about its weaknesses… Depending on what you’re capturing, though, the battery life may be the only truly limiting factor.

The buffer only plays a role if you are shooting high-speed continuous bursts. Typically most modern cameras have a buffer of somewhere around 25-75 shots. Although the exact number for each camera will also vary widely depending on ISO. The camera’s buffer acts as temporary storage until it can write all of the data to the memory card. So while the buffer is a fixed amount of storage, it will free up much more quickly (or not be utilized at all) if you have a faster card.

@@blytheandkarry thanks for this information.

It's definitely possible to delete in camera, and most of the time there won't be any issues. Besides the drawbacks I mentioned in the video, there's also the chance it could slow down transfer speeds due to random write versus sequential write. However, that probably wouldn't be noticeable unless you're shooting high speed RAW or recording video in a high bitrate 4K.

Hi @@blytheandkarry random write and sequential write are things that affect spin-disk hard drive. Those do not affect memory cards or SSD cards. You will not see in the market a defrag for SSD cards or Memory cards. To me, the only thing that makes a difference is the quality of the card. This is one part where if you are making money with your camera you can't go cheap. I delete in camera and I do not format my cards in the camera that often (once every 6 months may be) and in more than 10 years I only had one issue with one card, the issue was reproducible and the solution was to change the card for a better one. Places as ebay, amazon, bestbuy, waltmart (marketplaces) are not recommended to buy your memory cards because the fact is that there are a lot of fakes cards branded with good OEMs names. And this apply too to Batteries. There are a bunch of "Canon" batteries being sold that are fake.

Those sound like good practices. I personally don't use the USB cable or the manufacturer's software, since I'm typically shooting with 3-4 cameras and it's substantially easier to just pop out the SD cards (and keeps my desk much less cluttered). Also, when shooting video, I'm always importing straight into Final Cut Pro, so manufacturer's software would be an unnecessary extra step. Not sure what your camera make is, but it sounds like the "Erase All" feature is similar to Canon's standard format card option.

I agree, I never swap cards between cameras. It's one of the may be myth around this topic but one that I think could be possible. I do use a memory card reader to move pictures to my PC and never had a problem. I shoot around 500 pictures per week, close or around 2000 per month so I can't say that I'm a heavy user.

@@blytheandkarry Wouldn't it be easier to just have a card in each camera? That way, whatever you grab is ready to go (except for checking the battery charge). Reading your reply a little more carefully, you may already be doing that and the difference is in the method of transfer. My preference is primarily based on a desire to minimize physical handling of the SD card.

True, you can see 100k write cycles on an SD card, but would you run the risk of using an old SD card in a camera to capture once-in-a-lifetime images? If it's in a dual card slot camera as a secondary card recording simultaneously with a newer card, sure. But why run the risk when it's $30 or less every couple of years to replace your primary SD card? As for not buying bigger cards than you need, there's good arguments for both sides. Yes, the storage may be less durable, but also you're not going to be using it as heavily as you would with a smaller card. Also, most of the SD cards out there now have more than enough speed to support whatever you throw at it (with the exception of sports cameras, that typically have CFast or CF Express slots too). I'm personally going to buy just a little bigger than I need. I haven't made the switch to UHS II cards yet even though my cameras support it, because a V30 card is plenty fast enough to handle 4K video. If I upgrade cameras later to something that needs faster transfer speeds, it will be time to upgrade SD cards anyway.

@@blytheandkarry I definitely approve of dual card cameras running what is effectively RAID 1, that's just the best option regardless. I do think for clients mission critical stuff it's fair to use a new, known good card. Maybe for personal stuff a 5 year cycle is good and quite safe. I do mostly astro though so in a night I could have thousands of RAW files getting dumped into the card so I'm definitely up there in terms of cycles.

I have bent an sd card in the past. I was told that the University of Saskatchewan could dissect and recover the data at a cost of about $1500 Can.

I have bent an sd card in the past. I was told that the University of Saskatchewan could dissect and recover the data at a cost of about $1500 Can.

@pitrow66 yikes! I almost added an extra tip of always storing/transporting cards in a protective case. Not quite on the same track as the other tips dealing with the data integrity part of digital storage, but nonetheless important to prevent data loss! As long as the chip itself inside wasn’t damaged, someone who’s good at micro soldering would probably be able to move the flash memory chip over to a donor card to be able to recover the files. That seems a little steep for the job, but it may be worth it in some circumstances.

Same!

Good seller but there are about a half dozen reliable manufacturers, not just SanDisk.

Absolutely!!! Removing the card in the middle of a write operation is a sure way to cause data loss. I don't believe it's as important anymore to safely "eject" drives from a computer as it used to be, but it is still best practice to make sure your computer isn't actively using it. Since you shouldn't normally be writing data from your computer to your camera SD cards, the biggest issue there would be that something only partially copies over or a program gives you an error message if it was using one of the images on the removable drive.

YES! This. It's exactly the same as when you have it plugged into your PC. Almost never a a good idea to just yank it. I have killed a few flash drives this way too.

I mostly agree with you on your first suggestion, particularly for photos. However, sometimes I shoot sequentially when I'm recording video simply because of the sheer amount of space videos take up. And doing that really saved me on one wedding last year when my card filled up just before the reception exit. In that situation my camera switched over to the second card and everything was fine. But if I'm shooting something where I don't anticipate filling up one card (which is every time I'm doing photos, and sometimes when shooting video), I will typically record to both cards simultaneously when shooting on my R6 Mk II. As for buying a camera that only has one card slot...We have two EOS R camera bodies. We made the switch to mirrorless fairly early on - before the R5 & R6, and the only options at the time had one card slot. I haven't ever had any issues with card failures, and I attribute that to always following the recommendations I gave in the video.

"2) If you are shooting professionally - who would use a camera that only holds one memory card?" When I shot weddings with film cameras, I used cameras that only held one roll of film.

@@Narsuitus That is true, but it's the only option you have with film. My comment was based on shooting with digital cameras for commercial purposes such as a wedding. I can imagine the disappointment of the loss of a "one time opportunity" like a wedding - which you cannot reshoot - all due to the failure of a SD card for one reason or another. It just makes sense as a professional to use a camera with two cards, writing to both, as all SD cards will eventually fail. Film on the other hand does not "fail" - unless of course you start out with a bad roll (due to a problem with manufacturing). I started out using film in the 70's, doing my own developing and darkroom work - and never had a problem film - other than those I created due to my own mistake - which were many

2) A: I did for a couple years but now my main camera has two populated slots. Maybe I've been lucky but I'm careful with cards and only buy top models from reputable manufacturers. No issue since ~2007.

I haven’t ever used Samsung. As the thumbnail image may be a clue, I’m a pretty dedicated SanDisk user and haven’t had any failures in the 10+ years since I started photography & videography. That being said, Samsung may be just as reliable, but I’m personally sticking with what I trust.

Yeah, Samsung does have some really good models. Fast and reliable.

Thanks! So, technically SD cards are SSDs… Joking aside, I think the main reason for not using something like an M.2 NVME drive is just the large size of the drive. That and those drives aren’t designed to be swapped between devices without an even larger protective housing. That being said, some of the more “pro” cameras use CF Express and CFast cards that have a faster transfer speed and arguably better reliability than standard SD cards. And some new cameras (like the newer Panasonic LUMIX cameras) can record directly to an external SSD over USB.

@@blytheandkarry Yes, SD cards are in fact SSDs lol. I also am aware that some camera manufacturers have started to adopt SSDs but only in very expensive and non mainstream cameras. I am still wondering though why there are no "entry level" cameras that have adopted m.2 SSD. A M.2 SSD can be as small as a 2230. They are also quite cheap so much so that even cheap laptops have them now. It might be a cooling issue though. I mean the canon R5 already overheats without an SSD,..

​@@blytheandkarryHooking up an external (2.5") SSD via USB to a camera like that LUMIX S5IIX for ProRes video is just clunky and stupid. The new Nikon Z6III, when using a CF Express card, can record not only ProRes but _ProRes RAW_ *internally*.

Great advice! It’s just not worth saving a couple of dollars to run the risk of a counterfeit memory card!

@@blytheandkarryOr avoid buying from Amazon entirely, since apparently stock from third party sellers is intermingled with Amazon’s own stock in their warehouses. So even if you choose to buy from Amazon directly, there’s still a chance you could end up with a counterfeit product or a returned item sold as new.

Thanks for reaching out. But no, we’re going to keep all of our editing in-house for now.

No, just when recording 4K60 video.

Yes, it has a great sensor to get some amazing images!

I think the slight edge comes to the R6 for photography, but if you plan on recording video with it, it would highly recommend upgrading to the Mark II due to the Mark I’s terrible overheating track record.

Hopefully I was able to help you with that decision. Both cameras are great options, but it really comes down to your intended use case.

I feel like the R8 is great for IG content. It’s super compact, plus has an accelerometer to automatically rotate vertical videos. But I don’t see anyone buying the R8 as their primary camera unless they’re just starting out. You should have plenty of runtime on 4 batteries, but sadly that’s slightly less mAh than two LP-E6NH batteries. If only Canon could have made the camera just slightly bigger to give enough space for a real battery!!!

I'm going to buy too the R8, very soon..Did you buy all originals LP - E17 batteries or any third part brand to advice?

@@vero1197 sorry for late response but yes all batteries are the original from canon

I attempted that. The only way I could get it to not show the genuine battery warning was if I started out with one battery in the grip, then added a second battery after power cycling the camera. The problem with that was the battery level was wildly inaccurate. It would show full battery until it was almost dead. So basically just as useful as not having a battery indicator at all.

It does ok outdoors. I wouldn’t say it catches a lot of wind noise. But, obviously if it’s very windy outside, you’d need a deadcat fuzzy or some way to shield it.

Thanks! Yes, it fit perfectly!

Thanks for the tip! Yes, we somewhat recently switched gears from using our channel to showcase our work to providing more tips and educational material for newcomers to the industry. I understand that it does take time for our audience to grow, but I'm open to any other feedback you may have.

@@blytheandkarry where i can explain you in detail?

@@blytheandkarry yeah i see your recent content. Just amazing duo you are. Smart presentations but just need some push up your video to the larger audience. Because when audience search a video which is related your video niche they can't find it one search result page. That's why audience view, engage and reach low. I have something to share with you in detail.

Feel free to reach out through our website: blytheandkarry.com