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Rear is 2005-08 factory axle with ARB air locker with stock leafs & 1" blocks, Fox IFP 2.0 shocks. Nothing fancy in the rear, all the magic is up front.

I bet its a game changer!!

@@owlclaw absolutely, luckily it came with one when I bought it because otherwise they cost a fortune to install.

Phoenix AZ

Yea its completely rebuilt, maybe cuz its a 6.0 😂

Well that makes sense lol. I have one with a 7.3

Yea, its been a road with the 6.0 but nock on wood, its always given warning before leaving me stranded. Believe it or not most of the money spent so far has been on axels and suspension 👍

One step closer to getting it done!! Hit me on Instagram DM and we see what you have to start with 😎

Literally the stuff Legends are made of!

It took about four weeks.

@@owlclaw man that’s cool to take a month off…

Definitely blessed and lucky to have staved off the world for that long for sure.

Right, definitely would have been the better choice! it would have been at least 2X the size of the rest of the vehicles on the road tho.

@@owlclawwell Maybe we will be blessed with more excursion videos soon.

Any recommendations on what they should be about?

@@owlclaw well I’m trying to build mine a lot like yours, you have very detailed videos on the setup, I think at this point more wheeling…. Maybe views of the suspension flexing, etc.

Thanks 😅

So many awesome directions to go! I'd take one of each if I could.

The og' X is a versatile platform, if you have to spend the day, or a week, on a bike I'd choose a mild setup - rocks, sand, waterfalls, some roads. But if you had only 4 hours to cover the distance and it was 50+ mph tracks then the XRR is going to absolutely dominate the higher speed stuff.

I tried hard to not lift it but I think its up about an inch or so.

Thx, chief. I've made hundreds of videos most suck, but every once in a while...

a Long one? Na, but I've been thinking about making a run of ten or so.

Na, but I think PMF is doing a pretty good job trying to copy it. Check out @geeks4x4, he's doing great working thru the kinks.

Yep fuel plan is key! I like the Giant Loop bags, I used them to get to Cabo and back on my KTM 950SE. There are also handlebar mounted solutions for the trials guys, that attach with velcro; you fill it, take it off at the rocks, then pick it back up to refill for the return trip.

Welcome aboard! Conversations keep reoccurring about replacing it but they always end the same way - that nothing compares to the versatility and capability!

JCR Speed Shop had them and I bought a bunch before they forgot about their website. There are copies (maybe even the same ones) on ebay but they've been hit and miss with the internals. They are great, I love them.

Maxxis Trepador Radials, great for offroad but because they are directional they cant be rotated, bummer for people who just want to run them down the road. I love em'

Much appreciated!

Justin from @bajaeveryday8673 is your guy with the 650L in the desert. You'll even be able to jump on a ride at the Oasis!

Good point. Dono, I've been flogging them but need to deal with them soon. I don't even know if those battered rims will hold tubes. Actually the biggest concern is If you leave the bike parked on them they deflate on that spot and its like riding with a square tire. Racers either get a new set every tire change or the tire & rim sit on a rack between pits - Say you get a deal and pay $125 each for tires and mousses, imagine spending $500+ every time you smoke a tire 😮. Bro they are amazing, I'm not going to lie, but I'm hungry and happy with my Maxxis Deserts & HD tubes.

I run Nitromousses and they last awhile. It is important to keep wedging them so that they don't get overly loose as they wear.

Don’t run mousses on anything other than a track. They aren’t designed for anything else, no what what someone says about running nitromousses that last a little bit longer. It’s not designed for the speed or for what you’re doing off a MX track. Just get a heavy duty tube.

Because I bounce between wheels I have the opportunity to check the torque (without air) before I mount them & they were good before I left... dang man, Scary. I've been talking to a few TT teams and they run anywhere between 30-50 psi. They all say get your own bolts and change them out every major prep. I should do a follow up video on this.

THX for the feedback. Someday I'll try it again now that I can weld faster, maybe a giveaway or something!

Yea, I was just going to say gear it up to stretch it out. There is alot more different between the r/rx & x/l platform. The X is plush and has a flatter torque curve (L is even more so) where the r/rx is a dang rocket in the band but has zero grunt. I find the X challenging to ride single track on, I always want to keep shifting but I need to remember that it has the rrr's to wind up between curves without clicking around. I've settled on the X, I love it for what I do, It's a good all around bike. Especially with that engine build, its like the XR650R with all the torque now, and has 6 gears!!!

Well yeah... The R is a dedicated track bike

Yes, on that bike the stator has been rewound so it has a dedicated lighting circuit and the light with regulator/rectifier runs directly off that. It flickers on idle because its a squadron pro but you can just needle the idle up if it starts to give you epilepsy while trying to map out the trail :O other wise just punch it!

Stock is 100 MPH easy; 20% up gives you less top end actually (that's the 96 mph video) but cruises much better down the highway and still gets up the hills with a tad more clutch.

Mostly a basic four link but with the custom coil buckets. So far these are the only set but they're pretty straight forward to make. One day I'll be able to just make 10 of everything 🤞

😎 lol, its not even that bad but it is a breaker 😂

Tow wheels: 20x10 with -18mm offset; 17x8.5 with -25mm offset. Both are a bit out of the wheel wells, but the 05-08 axels are also wider than the Factory set.

I don't but that's because the BRP is the wrong bike for the tight stuff. It has plenty of mass (and fluid volume) to stay cool while walking up even the biggest hills but it likes to be to opened up after to get some air. As for trying to sit idling at street lights or whatever, I forgot to say, even if you keep the cylinder & oil temps down with a fan, the header pipe will be glowing red hot in pretty short time - I wonder how the L's get away with it, maybe that emissions thing bypassed a bunch of cooling air into the exhaust?

It started like the Warn hid-a-winch but got cut and shaved to be as minimal as possible.

That's a great idea, they have those blue tooth stem cap ones too. No Excuse!

Got the spacers from the wheel manufacturer, Raceline in this case. Definitely questioning the thickness - no spacer perhaps to much of a gap but 1/8" spacers don't seem to hold more than 30 psi of air. I will do an update this summer once we beat it some more :)

Yea man, gotta be balanced for sure!

I might have some footage, Let me check the archive. No mods to the frame or anything, just the bumper. Similar to the Warn Hide a winch but without the fire truck bumper look when its all in there.

Thanks for watching!

Didn't even loose pressure, missing bolts was the only warning.

Welcome aboard! I'm pretty neutral on the scale but when you set your self up to be in the spotlight, expect to get roasted 😆

@@owlclaw 💯 I wanted a diesel 'scursion so badly, but they are so expensive that I gave up hope. Then I came across this guy's Tahoe SAS and due to the lower cost, bought an '04 Tahoe and am going to start the swap as soon as ski season ends (SLC area). I'm gonna try for 37s since the 35s fit his really well with minimal trimming. You guys are truly an inspiration. Thanks for sharing with the rest of us. www.youtube.com/@tahoverlanding/videos

Welcome aboard! Come on out anytime, spare bike all around 😊

Lots of persuasion 😆. Not because I couldn't part with it or I think its worth a million bucks, but because I'd have to go through all the growing pains of finding that perfect recipe again on the next build. DM me and lets chat about it if your serious, better yet book a flight and we can go pound on it! owlclawfab@gmail

Everything is for sale 😎 Just got back from a trip, the mind boggling thing is that it still tows like a dream. Jacob@Chesna.us Thanks for reaching out!

Any where you would like. Facebook, Instagram, www.owlclaw.us/connect, owlclawfab@gmail

Rear has original excursion springs, 05-08 Axel, and currently 1.5" blocks. Ideally the truck would have no lift. With the coil buckets raised and the springs that I found, the front is level with the back on that setup. I should measure the axel to frame distance so that others can compare.

@@owlclaw why does the rear need a 1.5” block? What happened in the front to cause it to go up 1.5”?

I think you found it? Come on out to an event like king of the hammers and we can go wheeling. See what you like and what you'd like to do different first hand!!

@@owlclaw yes I found it, it wasn’t under videos. I had to look under playlist. I haven’t wheeled since I was a kid. It’s pretty amazing it does what it does with factory suspension. Since it came off of a 250, so 250s already have this much flex in the rear?

@@robdmau yea all the flex comes from the rear on a f250 with arms. Its like taking two pipe wrenches to the front axel when trying to get only one side to go down. It is still pretty impressive what it can do from the factory tho. www.owlclaw.us/builds/diesel-excursion/ I had more opportunity to post pics here showing the extended coil buckets without the fender liners on this build page. I pushed the coil buckets up as much as I could without moving the batteries; that's why I used the 1.5" blocks in the back, just to be level with the front.

@@owlclaw so these springs are from a 6” lift, to avoid the lift you pushed the buckets up as high as you could which still left a little (1.5”) so you just blocked the rear to level it out. How’s the squat towing 10k lbs?

@@robdmau Correct, but with the rear springs being 20 years old, its prolly right at factory height and the front would be "leveled" (+2") like a typical leveling kit. The spring rate is about 300/in on each side so squat should be about 2" at the hitch with 1K lbs on the ball. On that trailer I use a distribution hitch so there no sag. With our latest trailer and with the hitch moved up and strengthened, I just hitch it up but its around 6K total with ~1K on the ball, and it sits and tows much better.

Ohh, a suzuki jimny or a samurai? Yea, gotta have multiple; parts for maintenance is cheaper than gas!

Factory front sectioned and covered in tubes. Rear is just tubes over the raised hitch. There is another video on the channel showing how we did the front sectioning.