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regarding the conduit couplers - maybe a bit of grease filled in there would avoid corrosion? or maybe if you're welding adjacent, braze the rebar to the copper?

When you get through with removing the rust from your project. You need to plan to remove the rust from the rebar before your next project. It will go faster.

But hydrogen currupt metall structure, especially hardened strong metal. Hydrogen embrittlement.

Good setup. I would avoid using galvanized metal anywhere such as those conduit clamps--not great for your health if you can find an alternative.

Very tidy, very neat.

Insanely overbuilt. It's cool but that gauge ground wire is completely unnecessary.

Outstanding setup & info. I bought the same barrel a week prior to seeing this video. I'm definitely going to "Appropriate" your design! 😂 Thanks & GOD Bless!

Great video Albert..! I really like the design of your tank. I've been doing some research,and I would like to make some suggestions. 1. The higher the amperage, the quicker it de -rusts the item. 2. 14 gauge wire doesn't cut it. Get heavier leed wire. 3. The rebar anodes work, however, 2" x 20" graphite plates, wouldn't corrode,they would give more of a charge surface, so, you wouldn't need to replace them, and clean them. You could use graphite rods, also. They are costly, but the results are well worth it. 4. A chemist friend of mine suggested using sodium sulfate, instead of sodium carbonate. It may work better as an electrolyte.

Could you tell me the brand of the power supply you are using?

Steel rebar. One amp of current from red wire, but when you connect it to rebar the rebar will jump to 20 amps while the red wire stays at one amp.....lmao.

All of these video are really funny. People use angle iron, rebar, flat iron, all kinds of crazy heavy duty steel......all of which serve no purpose. The amount of current is limited by the red and black wires on the voltage generator. Connecting to ANYTHING larger than #14 wires serves absolutely no purpose. If you don't believe me, try it my way with strands of #14 copper wires instead of rebar. Results will be exactly the same. stupid is as stupid does.

Nice rig. I currently use a 20 amp battery charger and large rectangular tank but I think I need to both increase the number of anodes and get a supply like yours.

What did you find to be the best voltage and amperage settings?

I would remove rebar to clean off rust evry day or two to increase efficiency…or make a second rack to just pop in

Did he say that manifold was subjected to electrolysis for OVER a week? That sounds expensive. And very slow. Any thoughts on this?

Thank you for the inspiration. Today I built my unit. I took your idea of using the conduit splices, used the ground wire from romex, doubled it and twisted it to make a 5 gallon bucket / 5 rebar / manual battery charger unit to clean the rusty axe heads I have. So far so good, I was able to find the foundry mark. Love this no cost version using things I had.

I Play around with etching the surface on axe heads and i will definitely use this set up but on a small scale. Great vid. Thanks

That's a great setup there! I'll be sure to keep this in mind, going forward. I built a temporary 4'x5' "tank" for electrolysis rust removal from steel wire shelving. Using thick plastic visqueen, draped over a simple 2"x8" boards lying flat on the concrete floor, which was outside, but covered. It worked great at removing rust from 3 dozen steel shelves, and then it was easy to disassemble when finished.

Nice video and very informative. How did you manufacture the red ring ? Or where did it come from ?

What voltage and amperage have you found to work best?

Anodes need to have a lot of surface area, when they get a build up on them they become less efficient. I did the same with threaded rod and found out that using metal sheets welded to the rods improved the performance. Bravo for using heavy duty wire, but from what I can see in your setup is the leads may be a 22 gauge wire and will never hold any type of high amperage.

Code requires #4 btw

That's a nice set up

Kudos, sir. I’ve only just started learning about such set ups, through starting my first motorcycle renovation, but your set up here is next level from what I have designed. Thanks for the ideas.

This has some fantastic design elements that I’ll be incorporating into my own E-Tank, thank you!

This is the ultimate set up! It looks so professional. I am going to put one of these together just like it.

Nice setup. Definitely a good idea to use a proper power supply rather than a battery charger.

I like the links of that.

nice job good thought . stainless wire clamps last a long time .thanks for sharing i will update my tank

Albert... LOL my grandpa's name, you really have one of the best , practical ability to do small items and larger items to be de-rusted. IF one was to actually see the 30 gallon barrel next to the big rubber made tub the 30 gallon takes much less space.. much smaller space. as its vertical, all things are variable and as you have the cross sections which you can hang individual items,,, this, that can be scaled in any tub or barrel situation..but your system is economical and includes many many size large and small without going all in for a giant tub or barrel for those of us who don't have that much space to occasionally de-rust something....besides an engine block ...great video mant thanks

you should up your game and nickel plate your copper clamps so they never corrode. nickel is great for conductivity and corrosion resistance. and its done through basically the same process.

Pretty cool design. I was wondering if you ran a grinder around the outside of that rebar before you put it in to remove that slag coating. Once I did that, mine worked twice as well

Very nice set up. great info.

WHY DIDN'T YOU JUST USE A STEEL BARREL/DRUM ???? WOULD HAVE SAVED YOU A SHITLOAD OF TIME!

Nice video! I like the EMT set-screw couplers to re-bar mechanics for your sacrificial's, great idea! I'd like to suggest a better electrical method for attaching the copper wire though, drill and tap the ends of the re-bar then connect the copper wire with small bolts.

Nice. Do you think that method would work for removing the color from stainless steel welds? Nice setup. I might make a large dip tank myself

Please describe more the power adapter you bought

The same tank used to remove the iron oxide should be able to replace it with a protective coat of something else simply by changing polarity and the rods/electrolyte. I Think :) We dont need a good finish, just one that wont oxidize or vaporize under the heat(zinc-easy). Excellent build btw. Thanks for the run through.

Your overthinking it. Any container will work. You can get 55 gallon drums all day for free. A kiddo pool is cheap and a great option because large objects like doors and fenders will fit or mostly fit then can be rotated. Small container's easy to find. Just toss in a sacrificial rod and your cooking. You make one dedicated tank and your limited to it's size. You did a good job but it's a lot of work just to find out it's too small.

Nicholas Cage is a beast when it comes to Electrolysis

Best setup I've seen and I've researched electrolysis for quite some time.

I like your set up!

Only thing I would change is using an insulated heavy guage wire instead of bare copper to integrate the positive connection field of re-bar, and maybe wrap the conduit connectors with a water resistant or compatible electric or duct tape. That might reduce the possibility of arcing or sparking given the flammable gas by-products generated from the electrolysis process. Might be a small thing probability wise, but everything I have read cautions against risking DIY electrolysis set-ups to any kind of exposure to sparks or flame, especially when used indoors.

That's a great idea! Have you ever thought about putting some kind of weakly acidic acid the barrel? Maybe like vinegar?

Why not just use a steel oil barrel and thus increase current density and efficiency? I use this method and put a 12V 21W car bulb in series to prevent shorts damaging the PSU. Also, use copper pipe for cathode connection, soldering wires to it with crocs on the end. saves all the wingnuts and bolts and wood etc.

Can you tell me what the brand name of the charger you used and model number? I liked everything except for 5he reber I want to 7se flat stock. I think it maybe a faster way to remove the slugs. Please help me out. Ii have a 33 gal blue barrel I may look for a 33 barrel though. Thank you very much sir

Where dif you get the red ring? It looks like the lid screws into the Red ring, is that so?

This my friend is the cats ass! Thanks for the great video and explanation. I have been doing electrolysis for a few years and this will make my life much easier. I think I will out drain spout and tap on the bottom. Top shelf and all the best. I do use the power supply also but have used the battery charger as well. I use wood blocks for isolation of parts as well.

For a tank that big I would think a drain valve would be a good idea.

⚠️Electrolysis creates atomic hydrogen, which can ruin the steel. This is called hydrogen embrittlement.