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Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.

@@richardbadish6990 That’s a great question! One thing I sometime do on widespread canopies because I usually climb DdRT is to utilize two climbing systems. One as a primary and then a secondary that I can use when working farther out towards a side of the tree to improve work position. Doesn’t even have to be a full 100ft+ climb line, could be a longer secondary lanyard or shorter climb line, etc. Sometimes I may be tied into both the primary system and secondary, and sometimes I may hop off one and hop on another. Depending on the tree if there aren’t any good natural crotchets you can use webbing slings to create a TIP for your line (as long as you trust it will support you of course). You can also use webbing slings to create footholds as well. Some other things to consider if you don’t think it’s practical to be able to get a more comfortable TIP simply because you don’t know if it will support your weight is climb out to where you do feel you can safely be and then use a pole saw / pruner to trim what you need to farther out. Or can it be reached from the ground? You can also use the same pole saw / pruner to set a rigging line if you need by throwing the line with a carabiner attached around the branch, and then hooking the carabiner with the pole saw and pulling it back to you so you can then either clip it onto the rest of the rigging line to secure the branch or tie a knot, etc. It’s a lot of extra work doing it this way but if it’s your only option or what you feel comfortable with then sometimes you got to do what you got to do. Also, if removing longer limbs over structures or other obstacles instead of piecing out maybe consider taking it as a bigger piece so you can cut closer to the trunk where your TIP is more above you. Depending on the scenario you may be able to set one rigging line towards the branch tip end from the ground with a throw line, and secure that rigging line wherever you feel you need it to be in the tree to be able to force the branch to hold steady or swing away, and then tie the end off near where you’re cutting to prevent that end from dropping when it’s cut. So basically instead of taking a longer branch in sections maybe you take it in one or two pieces and it may require more than one rigging line so that you can balance or swing it away as opposed to letting it swing directly down under you. The last thing I want to say and please don’t take this as me being critical of your climbing ability, but part of it as well in my opinion is simply getting more comfortable working at odd angles with your climb line (if you can’t have it directly above you and a secondary TIP isn’t an option). Practicing climbing these specific scenarios in a non-work setting when you’re off the job, may help tremendously because you can take that extra time to really focus on the process and methods to getting to where you need to be and obtaining a good enough work position that you feel you can safely make a cut. If you don’t have access to trees where you live, maybe see if you could climb at a park, or somewhere where the trees are similar to what you’re describing. Obviously you don’t need to actually make any cuts to practice this, you’re just essentially going through the motions leading up to where you’d make a cut. And when on a job if you do feel you absolutely have to use spurs for safety reasons, if you can keep it isolated to the branches / limbs that you’re going to be cutting at least in that situation you’re not actually causing any damage to the parts of the tree that are going to be preserved.

You probably can’t see it from the video but there was a power line near that tree, higher voltage ones that go pole to pole not a service drop, and close enough that it made me decide not to climb for safety reasons. The purpose of the rigging was because the client had plants / landscaping directly underneath.

If you didn’t climb it why you have your climbing gear on

So a typical setup would be a lanyard that’s hooked into the D-rings on the side of your saddle, and then you’ve got your climbing line hooked onto your rope bridge which you may secure to the spar to act as a second tie in. There’s various ways you could tie into the spar with your climb line. Some people just cinch the rope around the trunk using a knot or carabiner, and there’s also gear you can buy for this exact purpose (spar tie-in).

If adding a second lanyard for three connections, then you start with your primary lanyard around the tree, then cinch your climb line around the spar and position it in a way so that when you lean away from it you have a secure feel. To do this likely you would move the climb line (the part that’s cinched around spar) either to the right or left away from you so that you take the slack out of the line until you’re able to actually lean back and have it support you. When adding the second lanyard (third tie in point), hook into one end of the lanyard at your rope bridge, and then cinch the other end of the lanyard around the tree and position the part that’s around the tree away from you to take out the slack but on the opposite side of your climb line. So now essentially you have support from the right and left side from your climb line and second lanyard, and then your primary lanyard which is just around the tree like normal. Not sure if this makes sense in text, so if you have any further questions please don’t hesitate to ask!

@@cgfitnessandarboriculture Thank you!

Thanks!

This was a while ago but I don’t believe I had a friction saver set up for any of it. Although I will sometimes utilize one which usually is in the form of a micro pulley. And with the ZigZag and any other device I always put a foot ascender on the same side as wherever the rope goes through the device to keep it more aligned and therefore more smooth.

Thank you

You swole mf good shit I’m 5’9 195 tryna hit 200 maybe 205 but I’ve never been more than 198

Pruning job, lots of pine branches.

I’m gonna estimate probably somewhere in the low to mid 160’s.

Typically I’ll include a full body stretching routine as part of my workout which is usually in the morning before work, although sometimes I do workout later in the day. I also used to use a foam roller quite a bit as well.

When I first started my “bodybuilding” journey I was around 100 - 110 lbs and the heaviest I’ve been is a little over 180 lbs. Whether bulking, dieting, or maintaining I pretty much always eat good quality food. I don’t dirty bulk in the sense that I will eat whatever just to hit my calorie goal. There’s more to nutrition than just gaining or losing weight, and it’s important to consider how the foods you eat can impact health, etc.

@@cgfitnessandarboriculturethanks for the info 💯

Do as much self-learning as you can. Watch videos, read books, and if possible practice different climbing and rigging techniques in the tree. You don’t actually need to be on a job to do that. For example, you could practice setting up different rigging systems, tying different knots, etc. without actually cutting any branches. When I first started climbing it was in the trees around my property. I was working as a tow truck driver so when I had free time I would climb. Before work, after work, and on the weekends. You could also check to see if there’s any tree work / tree climbing classes being offered. Another thing to consider is maybe see if you could get a job with a reputable tree service (even if just part-time) to gain some experience. Whichever route you go whether it’s learning on your own, working for a company, or a mix of both…part of the learning process is gaining experience by doing the work. Finding yourself in different situations and being able to adapt and come up with a plan for that particular rigging scenario.

I’ve never tried using it on palm trees only because there aren’t any where I’m located lol. But depending on what you’re doing and how big the stuff is that you’re cutting it may work.

is it possible for that to be 15% body fat

@@jmgonzales7701 Yes

I’m also 5’7 200lbs lets goooo