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How so?

Oh that’s great news, thank you for the update 👍🏽

Thank you man, it was a fun rig, definitely an under appreciated unit. This one has moved on to a Jeep family, few years back now. Lost track of it after that, hoping it’s doing good.

I disagree, it was totally worth it. The rig pepped right up, more power, gets way better gas mileage and burns cleaner.

That’s good to know for any future builds & for anyone looking for this information, thank you for posting 👍🏽 I lucked out and the u joint on my unit for right in, wonder if it’s got anything to do with what type of rig it come out of? I can’t remember what my axle came out of unfortunately but food for thought.

Hell yea brother 🤘🏽

All in it took me about 3 hours. That’s including all the fumbling around that I did finding my way through. 12mm, 10mm & Pliers are your best friend during this process

Unfortunately I do not, there are several resources I’ve been able to find on the net. I found them through a riviera forum. Hope you’re able to track some down.

You bet!

When you change these, will you be removing the motor mount bracket to gain access? Its been so long since I had to replace these I can’t remember what I was taught lol

Ah yes, the ever lovely lower radiator hose. Ive always found it a pain to replace. You got this 👍🏽 thankfully those are all fairly straight forward.

Black definitely needs to be flushed. It will work for a bit but I highly recommend flushing out the system.

That’s awesome, it is nice that they are interchangeable for the most part. Glad you were able to make it work for you 👍🏽👍🏽

lol every good idea is 1 slip up away from disaster 😂

Haha just calls me out. Yea I need to get on a treadmill mill or somethin lol

Glad to hear it! You got this man 👍🏽

Generally yes, the grill needs to be removed to have access to the clips that hold the lenses to the housing. Remember the lenses are “sealed” but you should be able to clean them fairly well through the hole that the headlight bulbs themselves fit into.

@@SamsWreckinYard I will try, but the whole lense needs to come off. I have those newer after market lights like you have on the video. There is what looks like pollen and moisture buildup on the inside. My brightness has gone down drastically.

@@danielquackenbush8980 oh no! I would suggest a heat gun over using a stove to try and pry the lens from the backing. Heat up the connecting parts and pry lightly with a flat head, or preferably a tool for spreading mud like on a wall. Can’t remember exactly what their called. Name of the game is even heat and light prying. I’ve done this with the headlights from a 91 cavalier z24 year and year and years ago. Speaking of the lenses in the video, I’ve since gone back to the original housings, I was able to track down some really good shape ones. I found the ones I installed scattered the light too much, which caused it to not go on the road very well. Some are really good, just not the ones I tried.

@@SamsWreckinYard I'll see if I can do what you recommended. I had those newer lights on for about 4 years and just last year I noticed moisture buildup and what looks like pollen in there. If they are sealed, wasn't sealed very well.

Awesome! Glad to hear it 👍🏽

No issues since I did the swap. Only thing I kept an eye on at the beginning was making sure the ubolt nuts were retorqued periodically.

@Sam's Wreckin' Yard I just finshed the swap and apparently when the old dif grenaded it cracked the forward gear set

​@@SamsWreckinYard Hey! Can you Tell me If you have anything Else changed for the brakes? I have a 99 Tahoe GMT400,k1500.. I got a 14b Like you,an want to Change it. But in Germany we have the "Tüv" He checked the brakes all 2years,so i have to bei Sure everything works Like the Standard 11" brakes from the 10bolt. So maybe you have Changes the ABS or Something? Best regards

Everyone has their own stories with every type of vehicle, I’ve had Chevy/GM’s leave me stranded in the middle of no where, same with Ford & Dodges, even had a Toyota blow an engine and had to walk back 4 hours out of the mountains.

Hey no worries, we all have to start somewhere. I was lucky enough to find mine from a light duty 3/4 ton 4x4 truck. Not sure if that really makes a difference or not, as for what the rear axle comes from. My biggest recommendation is to stay with the lug bolt pattern of your truck. ie 6 bolt/8 bolt The one big difference between the two is a Semi Floater 14 bolt is the one I used here, internal c clips to hold the axles in. And a full floater 14 bolt has the external bolts to hold in the axles, and generally only come in the 8 bolt lug pattern.

Hey thanks man. I was lucky and my driveshaft didn’t need to be shortened and my ujoint was the proper one already. I have heard some people have had to shorten the driveshaft and purchase an adapter ujoint. My suburban has 2” lift blocks in the rear so there’s a chance that’s why my driveshaft worked for me stock. As long as the 14 bolt semifloater is from a gmt400 the spring perches should line up. My 14b sf was from a truck and bolted right into my suburban.

Right! Haha but I love this boat. When I drove it daily it could damn near fly down the Hwy haha

I’m sure there’s a similar rear axle swap available for the GMT800 platform. From a quick search a semi popular upgrade is the 8.6” to 9.5” rear axle swap. The 8.6” is probably the axle you currently have, and the 9.5” is common in 2500 applications of the GMT800 era. I hope this helps you find what you are looking for.

@@SamsWreckinYard bro thanks for the lead. I'll do some research

@@hitmanshadowrecon9017 anytime, I’m always game to give some assistance to another build 👍🏽👍🏽

Is that a town? I’ve only been through Wyoming once many many many years ago.

That’s awesome, I’ll give it a look soon. I’ll be focusing on cleaning and repairing the interior and basic maintenance to get it drive able again. It wasn’t in bad shape when I parked it but now I’m expecting seized brakes and rotten interior for sure.

Mine does not make a clunking sound, I did have a similar issue on my 95 blazer s10, that one ended up being a bad ujoint at the rear axle. I would start with checking the UJoint on your driveshaft, and carrier bearing if it’s a 2 piece shaft. If it’s not there, I would then remove the UJoint from the rear axle and, by hand, see if the pinion has movement, seeing if you can recreate the sound. Rotate the pinion back and forth and even check in-out play. I’ve also heard that worn bearings at the wheels can cause a clunking sound. Safely lift the vehicle, and put axle stands in place then by hand rotate the wheels forward/reverse. What your trying to accomplish is isolating the issue to either ujoint/carrier bearing or internal on the axle. I’m guessing it’s going to be a pinion seal/bearing issue but without being there its best to diagnose the issue.

If that ever has to happen I will definitely make note of the pin length and tip material 🤘🏽 I’m sure you’ll get the upper hand in your battle soon man 😎

Thanks man, and that’s right, needle nose pliers are always the right key lol I’ll go grab more parts next pay day, maybe we’ll finally get some form of an exhaust system in it.

And hell yea, 10 yr old gas for the win haha

Thanks cuz

Me to man, me too. Been far too long 🤘🏽

Lol Gen Z n younger will never know the feeling of being allowed to rent more than 1 title. Or better yet, a game & a movie!

Thanks a mill man! I just recently got my v8 swap motor mounts in the mail. I already have a pre-87 350 sbc to get running and drop in this spring.

@@SamsWreckinYard fantastic its going to be a beast, best of luck mate

Thank you, glad it’s helped. Thankfully it’s basically the same process for most Chevy water pumps. Each vehicle will have its own minor differences, ie. serpentine belt routing, shroud removal, etc. But yes, the process should be very similar to the one described in my video.

That’s awesome, I’m sure you’ll find one someday soon. Their starting to resurface again, the original owners are realizing that “pile of junk” behind their sheds are worth saving and someone’s willing to put in the work. The right place n time is waiting for you, just keep your eyes open 🤘🏽

Glad I could help 👍🏽👍🏽

Haha thanks man! She’s a pretty cool kid. She still helps me out when she can.

@@SamsWreckinYard that’s wonderful man such a blessing! Thanks for the video helped out a lot God bless!

Wicked! Time for the usual questions, is it running? How do you like it so far? Got any videos of it yet? And of course, congratulations on your new purchase.

It runs amazing. Almost mint. It's at the tint shop getting a round of tint put in today. Only issue is a bit if paint peel on the roof. I'd love to post a video

Hell yea, that’s awesome. Do you have tint restrictions where you live? Here in BC we do, not sure how dark we’re allowed but it’s only on windows behind the drivers sight. ie rear passenger windows and rear window. You should post a walk around your video when you get it back. These cars are getting harder and harder to find, let alone in good condition.

@@SamsWreckinYard we can have limo tint all around the backside. The drivers side and passengers side can only have a certain tint on them but it's not much. I will post a walk around and tag you

I found that same information about the Scooter badge as well. Ive been baffled since I first started researching this thing for my wife. I’m honestly thinking that someone may have put the Scooter badge on at some point in its life because it sounded cool or maybe they had them laying around. That would be pretty cool to find one of those some day, even just to see it in person

You are welcome, Thank you for watching :)

It is basically the same idea for most Chevy solid rear axles, the biggest difference being the amount of lugs for the wheels (ie. 5,6,8) & the UJoint needed. What kind of rig are your swapping the 14b FF into?

I will have a look into that motor, I’ve been thinking about simply upgrading it to a bit larger & a better running engine

@@SamsWreckinYard mime now has a tb parts high compression piston and a cammed yx140 2 valve head on it that's ported with a 26mm mikuni it moves

@@SamsWreckinYard it's a good upgrade u can normally get the motor for under 300 bucks

Oh this is a great idea, I’ll search it up and see what I can come up with, thanks for the tips

@@SamsWreckinYard yea no problem just be aware that u are going from a electric start to a kick start so u gotta clearance the kickstart if u do it let me know when u post about it cant wait to see it

That’s exactly what happened to our tv when the bulb went out both times. We would turn it on, hear a pop and then the endless cycle of turning it on & immediately I’m the unit turning itself off. Not saying 100% that the bulb is causing your issue, but it’s definitely a good place to start diagnosing.

@@SamsWreckinYard Thanks. I bought a bulb on Amazon but it didn't fix the TV (although the old bulb was broken, so certainly the issue). I was able to return it so no lost cost. I ended up buying a new 75" LCD for a small fraction of the cost I paid for the big bulky 70" DLP 14 years prior.

Aww sorry to hear it didn’t help save your old tv. Yes, the new TVs can be crazy cheap in price, which is nice. But I’ll admit some of those 4K 75” on the market today are reeeeeeaaaaalllly nice lookin for the 2k price range haha

This is great information! Thank You for the tips! I’ll have a look at the actuator rod ASAP. I’ll make an update video to show what I find as well. Appreciate the info

I personally didn’t have to shorten my drive shaft, but that may be because I have a 2” lift block in the rear & the torsion keys are cranked up a bit in the front. The small lift could have already given enough room for the larger axle. Does that make sense? I hope I explained it ok

Mine range from $85-$150 CDN depending on seller and I purchase mine via Amazon. I've bought 2 from Amazon sellers. I don't have a preference, just one with the quickest shipping at the moment.