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Haha thanks James, sorry I haven't thought about selling it. I'm sure someone in your network would have a 3D printer!

Thanks Nath. She’s treated me well. Using it this weekend. Only thing that I find weird is when the roll inside spins and makes a weird feeling. But not really a problem.

@@sailingkulali does your sure ever wander around?

@@Nath-sn1mv I have the contact tip right up to the end of the nozzle so not really. But the wire does seem to bend if it’s too far away from the nozzle.

@@sailingkulali mmm . I'm trying to fine tune mine still. I only got it like 2 days ago. Mind if I ask what settings you use for 2-2.5mm ali?? How my much stand out for your welds? Like, wire stand out?

Hey mate, solvents attack acrylics hence the need to use non solvent products. The idea here is the backing paper is oil based, the oil dilutes the dried glue and makes it easier to come off. I have definitely used acetone, thinners, and kero to clean off acrylic, but it seems to leave a haze and from reading it leads to microcracks which then causes crazing.

@@sailingkulali thank you, but I have been using paint thinners for 22 years with no issues. I fabricated acrylic display showcases for Britney Spears & JLo. Haven't had any problems. Thanks anyway.

@@BestWorldJewelry it’s interesting, I have heard people using acetone etc with no problem. I tested an area and instantly got hazing. Not sure if there’s a protective coating on some acrylics.

@sailingkulali no, I would never use acetone. Only mild paint thinner. Then clean with alcohol or soap & water.

In my profile. Otherwise put your email here and I’ll send it to you.

Sent

@alexc6408 👌

Cool I didn’t even know about this technique. I’m guessing aligning the workpiece would also be quite hard. Thanks for sharing.

45 years old impressive! I thought 34 years was a record…

@@sailingkulali Don't know why my wife calls me a hoarder....😆

Sorry I have no idea about that one

@@sailingkulali That's okay.

Thanks 👍

@@sailingkulali if you can could you please send me links to all the other items used in this installation?

Are you zenus who already emailed or someone different? If you need the STLs send me an email. Otherwise with other parts they are self explanatory. Ie 316 stainless fastener etc

@@sailingkulali yes its me lol just wanted to et the exact stuff youre using

@BillaBong1 I just went to my local hardware supplier. All 316 fittings standard sizes Make sure to acetone before using double sided tape. Check torques after a few uses. Mine hasn’t budged since. Still good to check.

Yep

Thanks Norman. Great idea.

What are you doing for your underwater appendage? looked like a daggerbpatd?!

It’s a lifting keel. Similar to pelagic 77.

Lifting centre board*

As far as your mast plate mount MUST HAVE A SOUND & FOUNDATION.....THE DOWN LOAD THRUST WILL BE enormous!

Fantastic

The main issue was staying away from alcohol based products as it causes micro cracks which develop into spiderwebbing in the future. In hindsight I think the windows will be replaced before that becomes a big issue anyways. As you only used it as a final touch it should be fine. There were times I felt like soaking the window in acetone! Would’ve done the job in seconds.

Yeah. Have implemented many new upgrades.

Fantastic.

Thanks

Perfect. So if I need any parts for the gearbox in the future I can use the 25?

@@sailingkulaliand you can call them in Norway for parts they have english talking people and phone lady no problems

Ah awesome. Thank you for your help. There are a few hoses on the engine that are cracked and I can’t seem to find replacements.

Yeah that’s a good idea. Main thing is access

But it has a flashlight in it!

Probably a homing pigeon too :P @@sailingkulali

👍

Hey mate, thanks. I picked the 320g based on the bore size. It was the first lathe in that price range to have a 38mm bore. The others capped at 28mm like the 250g. I also wanted max diameter capacity because I knew I was going to be making some big bearings i.e. for the rudder post. Changing the gears isn't really that bad. I have already increase the speed by making a sorting box with all the gears in order. It's a bit of a learning process in terms of which way the gears go and where. But I do believe there are more options in terms of threading types on the 320 than on the 250. For me, because I am only doing slow one off projects on the lathe, I don't need anything 'quick' on the lathe. But if your use case is multiple fast projects with smaller diameters perhaps the quick change GB will be of value to you. If I were to do it again, I wouldn't buy the stand, it's a piece of crap that cuts you every time you use it. The lathe literally wobbles on it. Just built your own stand.

Thanks for your insight mate. Good luck with the rest of Kulali's build. Cheers.

Thanks mate! Felt like I got pretty lucky that it all worked out okay!

Thanks Canadian Penguin. Interesting that sometimes on the first pass the surface looks better than on finishing passes.

Nice. I haven’t tried kerosene. I did use citrus remover but it didn’t seem to work as well as canola oil. Not having to use a blade would be amazing. It does seem like there was a chemical reaction between the old paper and windows, so some polishing is needed anyways.

I hear ya..it does have to be 100% citrus or thafs what a good friend of mine said worked good for him. Truthfully ive only used the kerosene method myself. on some tinted quarter inch Sheets that had paper on both sides I spotted in someone’s spring cleaning, trash pile here in nj sat in my shop Till i ended up using them to replace the frosted glass on the cabinets in my RV. They were marked Philadelphia 1984 I to researched the hell out of it everything I tried steam cleaner, heat, gun power, washer, nothing. then I thought Hell with let me try kerosene. which is what I used to remove the plasty dip off my truck. I soaked down the 1 pc let it sit for 30 min to a hour and was then able to peel the paper off no problem. Also, I only had tried it on the one piece that day and soaked both sides when I removed it I only removed one side and left it the next day when I came to do the rest the pc i had soaked the night before had dried back out but i was able to peel the paper off like it was new it’s like the kerosene is absorbed by the adhesive letting the paper dry again using kerosene worked amazingly well far better than I ever hoped after trying several other ways. good luck with the rest of your build🤙🏽

@@nickb8735 wow, I just read up on it too. And found this chemical resistance link. www.eplastics.com/blog/chemical-resistance-acrylic-plexiglass Does look like Kerosene won't harm the acrylic and is recommended as a cleaner. I'll put what you wrote in the description because it may help someone. Cheers.

@@sailingkulali oh damn that’s an good break down of the chemical effect. Awesome & yea def! Anything to help the daunting task! lol take care!

Agreed. It was desperate times.

They were really the perfect thing. Barely any aluminium removed, a flappy disc is way more aggressive.

Thanks, good luck!

Haha true. What about a free ‘half built’ boat. That’s surely the most expensive thing on the planet.

Should’ve just put in sonar.

Thanks!

👌

Haha the good old days where a can of coke was 50c instead of 2 bucks. (I’m not even that old)

Thanks will try in the future

Haha yes, really got me!

Hello. The bigger windows on Kulali are around that size and still the same thickness. I believe 10mm. The thickness is dependent on use case however from memory the windows are technically stronger than the surrounding aluminium in bending. One major consideration is the overlap of the window to the parent steel. If you imagine the window trying to push through, you want to have enough overlap to prevent it bowing through. K has about 25mm overlap. Consider thermal expansion of Acrylic vs. Steel before using butyl tape. Especially in extreme temps. There's some simple calculators if you just google. This is why I had to go with something like a 5mm offset from the parent aluminium. If there isn't enough distance the sealant will stretch too far due to the different thermal expansions and delaminate. Same point regarding screws. If you don't have enough play in the screw holes, the acrylic will crack. You'll see this on a lot of older boats. So you can put in a collar washer, but I've chosen to stay away from screws altogether.

Thanks

Pla

​@@sailingkulali how is the pla holding up . I'd almost think petg would work great for this also. Well done.

@@spoton6584 No issues at all. Boat has been on countless trips since. Haven't had to tighten up bolts or anything. Because not much UV. Low temps. PLA has been fine. Recently been using PetG and its got way more strength and not as brittle.

Yeah agreed. Much easier to buy new acrylic. Just need to factor in $$$$$

except where does the 'old stuff' that you deemed a mess going to go? The landfill. The earth. What a pity

Yeah for sure. Much better to try use things already built.

Thanks bud

Haha yes, have learnt that now. Thank you.

@@sailingkulali All of us have to learn it :-) I am a beginner to ( since years).

Yes great suggestion

Yep, it’s a real piece

No problem!

Thanks matey, learnt a whole lot along the way to that point! Was very close to pulling the pin and getting a new pump. Even considered a new motor! But the lessons learnt are the real gold in all of this!

@@sailingkulali can’t wait to see you get out on the water with it, bit to go but it’ll be worth it! I’ve learnt a heap from your videos already- thanks mate!!

Thank you! Hopefully many more vids to come.

Thank you!

I got most of the stuff from Total Tools no problem. Spool gun has been great for the last year or so!

@@sailingkulali Awesome! I'm looking at getting one today for my cigweld

Nice! Good luck with it!

Thanks Peter, I appreciate it! Still working on the vids 🫡

Thanks Albert. What do you mean by weld around from both sides? As in do a weld clockwise then counter clockwise?

@@sailingkulali In which direction the welding is guided is insignificant. If you have welded both sides are BOTH leaking. Grind the weld at this point and meticulously make sure that there is no contamination there. Grind this away as well. Even the soap residue can prevent a good weld, it would have been better to work with pure water. Go in search of a professional welder and hire him for an hour. He will immediately see the causes and can give valuable tips.

@@albertfunk1176 Hi Albert, thank you. today I actually ground back the voids and TIG welded up to seal. I was guided by two professional welders in terms of verbal advice. They look much better now. Keep an eye out for the next vid which show them. Way more control with TIG welding, but definitely a skill to practise and learn....

@@sailingkulali This is the right way to go.

In a room, a picture painted, clear, A paper whispers, drawing near. Best friends we are, or so it seems, As we journey through our dreams. But paper's heart is fickle, wild, To the window it is beguiled. My role, a guide, a chaperone, Taking it to the unknown. The most important task I bear, To convince the paper with tender care. To give my all, my heart's desire, A lie wrapped in poetic fire. For paper's love is but a dance, Between two friends in fleeting trance. Yet we hold on, through twists and turns, As the fire of friendship burns.

@@sailingkulali It's rarely the nuptial wot bonds glass to paper The love nor the promises too But more the adhesive that nurtures cohesive Sticks 'em together like glue. Contact experts "DEHESIVE" in Germany.

@@Mrbobinge hahaha very good.

​@@Mrbobinge I have put in the vid description DEhesive. Unfortunately Im past that stage of the project. Would have been amazing if there was a product that just made it work... Oil did well though.

@@sailingkulali Murphy. We always bump into the better solution after job-done. Bon voyage(s).

Thank you, yeah the tanks have lids which come off and allow access.