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This seems like a really smart workaround to printing more challenging materials in printer without a heated chamber! I am trying to impliment this technique to solve a bed adhesion issue printing ASA in my BBL P1S, but I am having trouble... I get an error that says "Unable to print filaments which have large temperature differences together. Otherwise, the extruder and nozzle may be blocked or damaged during printing". I am using Bambu Studio Version 1.10.1.50. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Have you tried to print abs on abs plate? It should behave like a raft.

I can't really print pla, but love petg for everyday use and cf nylon and pctg for functional parts. My printer is a heavy modified prusa i3 mk3s with a bondtech lgx shortcut copperhead, the entry level hotend from sliced engineering. I mostly print petg or even pet. Pla just doesn't really solidifies in times to be useful to me

Polymaker all the way. Qidi's new ABS is really good too, great results with it.

Hah! I still have my Super Duper Deluxe Tough High-Speed PLA++ from Polar Filament (great filament, btw). I wonder what April Fools filament filament they're going to do this year.

i use gluestick instead of sharpie. good adhesion and doesn't stain the parts

Best means affordable too.

The sharpie release agent really makes a ridiculous amount of sense. Now I'm waiting to see the market provide different or low/no color options with chisel tip applicators to optimize this.

I'm always amazed by how much variability there is even just between brands. Even with materials that don't advertise additives like plain PETG there ends up being a lot of variability. WRT favorites, Duramic PLA+ has been pretty great for my puzzle projects. It's very impact resistant but still easy to print accurately. It's just not very fast and requires aggressive cooling. It's similar in spirit to Polymaker's PolyMax PLA+ but way cheaper.

PolyMaker definitely seems like a solid brand, tho I'll usually go for whatever is cheap (not too cheap; I have several from inland as well) and easily accessible if I don't need some special color; if I do I'm kind of at the mercy of whatever I find..

My two favorite brands so far are Tinmorry and Siraya Tech. Tinmorry makes amazing PETG-CF and PETG-GF. Siraya Tech makes great engineering filaments and their 85A TPU performs great for me. I also like Eryone for their cost to performance. I've had good luck with most brands I've purchased. I have some Polymaker Fiberon series filament I'm excited to test out too.

Never enjoy seeing jeno-side Jonathan AKA The Next Layer in a video. He has abhorrent views.

I love the Overture Rock series PLA and their PLA matte series and pro series. I find the rock series in marble or the red tan combos look amazing on statues and also mountain type scenery or even for things like a gridfinity large storage box. These are very nice high quality filaments. I also like many of the filaments made by Qidi and Siraya tech. ABSGF25 being one of my favorites. I have to be honest the Polymaker stuff has not really impressed me much on some of the rolls I have tried out. I just got in a bunch of Anycubic PLA in grey which I use all the time just a great all around general purpose filament. I have a few new brands that I have yet to test out, but snatched up a few dozen rolls of various PETG and PLA filaments to test out. I tried out some PETG from Creality recently and was not impressed. Most of the stuff out there seems ok, but I do have certain brands that I stick with, most of the stuff I actually print is higher grade engineering type filaments, ABS is still my favorite all around filament and most used one along with ASA.

Skipping water soluable supports just to show an overpriced proprietary solvent soluable product seems a little bit like being a shill. Great information but not covering PVA feels like a fail

I've had really good luck with eryone

Fil X SBS

Very disappointing video. A big middle finger to the entire thought of any kind of scientific or useful information. But I guess it's worth it to get those clicks, huh?

I'm just starting out and I can already tell it will be extremely application dependent. Right now I'm using a bunch of matte PLA, PET-G HF and Translucent PET-G because I'm making boxes and drawers for my modeling stuff, and PLA and PET-G have a really low coefficient of friction against each other. However, I need to make about a zillion arms and shoulder pads to magnetize my Grey Knights, and I'm told the Sunlu PLA Meta makes the most detailed prints. I've got a spool and will start experimenting with it once the drawers and a PLA prototype dreadknight are done. So yeah, I think I'm going to be using a lot of different materials as I get further into this.

For me my go to's are sunlu and creative pla's bang for the buck wise and also availability... And don't hit me but for petg it's the Amazon brand... Prints great on my K1C..

I mostly buy eSun, Sunlu and Polymaker, because they are similiar in price and on the lower side of that, whilst I never had problems printing with them. I often notice a weaker color in these, compared to like Prusament, but this is also not always the case. PETG Signal white from Prusa is way more white than any other white PETG I own, but the "Signal" in the same indicates that. I'm yet to find a filament that can compete with Galaxy black.

This is a stupid video. I guessed Polymaker before I clicked on the video, skipped to the end, and got it right. By this metric, you are rating brands based on Amazon search listing optimization (availability and pricing), not any technical merits.

What I dislike is chinese brands, Sunlu is good and fine but their specs are always useless. On every site and shop or spool they list difference print settings. From documentation to distribution, it's horrible while the filament itself is good. I mean, some shops have colors they dont even have on their own site ! Same as Creality printers, parts from Ali Creality shop but nowhere to find on the offical site. They just can't make it reliable from source of purchase to settings, guess business in Asia is different.

PLA is absolutly the worst material. ASA or Nylon 1000x better. PLA is weak, hard to print and expensive and likes to clog.

Q1: colorFabb Q2: PLA/PHA and PHA

A question like this is going to end up fairly subjective IMO, there will be objective things the people using these filaments will extract from using them, but once many try a few, get burned by some others, then preferences tend to start forming from there. The only 2 I've even used from that pie-chart are hatchbox and overture. I can't even use the overture half the time, because the fumes it makes are kinda obnoxious for 'PLA'.. no idea why it off-gasses as much as it does compares at normal temps, compared to all the other off-brand ones I've tried.. yet is one of the frequently praised ones? So again just one of my (subjective) experiences, vs others.

I think my favorite color of filament is Overture Army Green PETG. It's a gorgeous color. I don't really have a go-to brand or type because it all depends on the application and desired color. To do a lithophane or filament painting, Bambu PLA because my X1C with 2 AMS units just automatically works and the settings are already known quantities for transmission distance, flow rate and color.

Q1: Azurefilm for color prints, for gray/white whatever I find in bulk for 10eur per kg Q2: PLA For color filament I like to go to store and get it there, so I can see what I'm buying.

Beautiful Rotring 800 tho.

Sunlu PETG

I build and sell huge, powerful 3D printed nerf blasters. My go to filament is CC3D PLA MAX PLUS, also sold as HZST3D PLA Plus The stuff is cheap and rigid without being brittle and is perfect for the high abuse applications I put it under. I've printed about 150 spools of it in the last couple of years and I'm not sure what I would switch to if it disappeared. Runner up is Esun PLA+

Great brand nobody knows about...Ziro. I really like their PLA.

First off - I don't know why anybody still prints with ABS and PETG when ASA and PCTG exist. They're just objectively better. Secondly - those tasty Polymaker ad dollars make me very sus about any RUclipsrs' stated brand preference. Thirdly - great channel, keep the videos coming! 😄

Nice video. I am surprised that eSun is not even in top10 in chart at the end. About impact test, very often manufacturer include Charpy impact test, but they forget to mention its a Charpy (supported from 2 sides, resulting bigger impact load)

Keep in mind that many of the plastic base material is sourced from the same factory for many brands. And secondly, even the filament produced in one factory is then rebranded half a million times before it reaches end consumer. So next time, you will have a need to argue with your friend about which brand is best, remember, that they both can be not only from the same factory, but also from the exact same chemical plant making the material.

I use sunlu because its cheap and does the job.

Whatever is the cheapest PLA in a color I like with at least a tolerance of 0.03 (preferably 0.02) and good windings. If I need something that has to handle slightly higher temperatures I go with PETG (same requirements as PLA). I stay away from ABS/ASA because I would have to print outside and people put way too much trust into insufficient filters. CF prints ideally need to be coated in something to be "save" to touch which everyone also happily ignores. Besides from 3d printed stuff there isn't a single commercial carbon fiber thing out there that is not coated in resin with zero exposed fibers.

i feel like this question is so difficult to answer because it is heavily influenced by the use-case for a particular part. most people tend to stick to the materials that are most applicable to their primary use case. i pretty much never use PLA or PETG. my main projects require high rigidity, high heat resistance, and/or high tensile strength. so i mainly use ABS, ABS-GF/CF, PC, PC-CF, PET-CF, etc. high temp - high strength. i feel that this survey is missing the crucial "what is your primary use-case?" question. my opinion: sure, i understand that this isn't meant to be a concrete result of your survey - but it is more misleading in my opinion. maybe i am biased, but i do not like polymaker. they only have 2 main positives for me & theyre consistency & availability. polymaker ABS is definitely not pure ABS - my main issue with polymaker is that everything they make is a blend. when i am buying ABS, i am not looking for a PETG-ABS blend like polymaker has. blends are the biggest frustration when buying filament in my experience. i praise atomic filament for their insanely high quality ABS, but it seems like there are very few brands that manufacture genuinely pure filaments as they are advertised.

Q1: Any brand that will print well on my MagnetoX Q2: Any material that will print well on my MagnetoX Thank you for this great resource on filament. Keep up the good work!

The best visually appealing filament is cookiecad PLA, The most consistent filament is BAMBU, poly maker is a great filament for the price, and worst is prusa.

I find it depends on what type of plastic as to which brand is best. Polymaker PETG, for example, can be an absolute pain to print with and is very sticky and has additives that cause it to be more oozey. Meanwhile, their PLA and ASA are great, print exactly how you expect those plastics to print. Prusa, on the other hand, has amazing PETG, performs perfectly and as expected (haven't tried other plastics, not available in Canada). So it completely depends on the type of plastic and then the brand.

sunlu petg and prusament pla

It never made sense that they sell filament by the weight rather than the meter. As you pointed out, the densities are different. My 1KG ASA rolls are almost always right at the edge of the roll, fuller than any PLA or PETG rolls.

Q1: Polymaker Q2: PLA for cosmetic parts CF PETG for functional Also I have had the same experience with limonene and abs/asa. I've also found that using HIPS/polycarbonate together in multimaterial systems drastically degrades the strength of PC even without limonene.

Subscribe or your nozzle will clog!

Phone case comes to mind!

Any idea on nylon?

Maybe a whiteboard marker would be better than a permanent marker, because the residue can be removed more easily? Or UV markers. They are only visible under UV light.

The sharpie is alcohol based, and I was wondering has anybody ever experimented with Hairspray which is alcohol based which would be quicker

Great video. I have a model where I stuck magnetic tape on the bottom of a reusable support and painter's tape on the top. I add a pause to the print job and drop in the reusable support. The magnetic tape holds it to the bed. When the print job is finished, I pop off the support, remove the tape, and stick on new tape for the next print. It's the Towel Bar Mounting Bracket from my Printables page. It allows me to have a clean recess on what becomes the back of the part without creating support waste.

Fot parts like the T shape (large square overhangs) I put kapon tape between the support and part. It works flawlessly