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Rob's Garage
Добавлен 12 янв 2010
Some how-to and showing progress on some projects
Making wheels tubs for the Studebaker part 2
Finished making the driver side wheel tub in this video. Thanks for watching. Please give a like and subscribe if f you enjoyed this video. Gonna upload some more videos in the future.
Просмотров: 42
Видео
Making rear wheel tubs for the studebaker part 1
Просмотров 2092 месяца назад
DISCLAIMER: I don’t know what I’m doing, and I am figuring it out as I go lol. Part 2 is coming up. Thanks for watching.
Adapting old steering column to rack and pinion
Просмотров 684 месяца назад
In this video I modify my old stude steering column to connect to rack and pinion steering.
63 Studebaker updates and air ride
Просмотров 1844 месяца назад
Update on my 63 Studebaker Lark. Building a custom air ride suspension. Hope to be putting floors in soon and I’ll update along the way. Also have some other big projects coming up in the future. Stay tuned!
Studebaker Prestolite starter repair and 259 update
Просмотров 7622 года назад
Prestolite MDU-7026 I cleaned up the starter for the Studebaker 259. The starter was very dirty. Took it apart to inspect and found it was very clean inside and there was no corrosion. Only issue was the bendix drive did not move freely. I simply disassembled it, cleaned, greased, and re assembled. I cleaned the brushes and re-installed everything after giving the housing a new paint job. Hooke...
Comp cams XR276HR Chevy 305
Просмотров 2,3 тыс.2 года назад
Part# 08-423-8 88 GMC Sierra C1500. This engine is a Chevy 305 with 10:1 compression, trickflow super 23 heads, long tube headers, borla pro xs muffler, Holley sniper fuel injection. Here’s the link for the camshaft: www.summitracing.com/search/brand/comp-cams/part-type/camshafts/advertised-duration/276-int-282-exh/grind-number/cs-xr276hr-10
Studebaker 259 Lark engine tear down
Просмотров 1622 года назад
In this video I show the 259 is torn down and the condition of the parts. I believe it is ready to go to the machine shop.
63 Studebaker Lark engine removal, cleaning, and updates
Просмотров 1522 года назад
In this video I show the engine and trans is removed from the Lark. This engine is a 259 V8. The engine is being disassembled and cleaned to get ready for the machine shop, and I talk about my plans for the build. Thanks for watching.
How to make a fuse block for your car key on power
Просмотров 25 тыс.4 года назад
In this video I add in a extra fuse block for my truck to have extra circuits for powering different components. I wire it to only be powered when the key is turned on. I bought all of these parts from amazon. Thanks for watching and comment with any questions you have. Thanks!
How to paint grill and plastic car parts DIY
Просмотров 11 тыс.4 года назад
In this video I show each step in painting plastic car parts/body parts and grill the right way. If you have anything to add, or have any questions please comment. Thanks for taking a look and good luck on your project!
bringing home the 63 studebaker lark
Просмотров 1,2 тыс.4 года назад
Got the studebaker home. It is actually a 63 not a 62. I am waiting to work on it until I am finished with the truck.
My wife surprised me and got my seat upholstered
Просмотров 474 года назад
Chelsea surprised me and secretly took my 88 GMC Sierra bench seat to the upholstery shop to get a custom cover! I was shocked and very grateful!
I bought a 63 Studebaker!
Просмотров 1195 лет назад
I bought a 63 Studebaker Lark from a 84 year old Studebaker collector that lives down the road from me. I have had a ton of fun getting to know him and am excited to build something different. I probably wont do much to it until my truck is complete but tune in!
Comp cams mutha thumpr roller cam in Chevy 305
Просмотров 11 тыс.5 лет назад
Comp cams mutha thumpr roller cam in Chevy 305
Fuel system build and channel updates
Просмотров 31 тыс.6 лет назад
Fuel system build and channel updates
88 gmc sierra cab corners and overview
Просмотров 4466 лет назад
88 gmc sierra cab corners and overview
2010 Dodge Challenger Flowmaster super 10 mufflers
Просмотров 2 тыс.7 лет назад
2010 Dodge Challenger Flowmaster super 10 mufflers
2010 Camaro SS Flowmaster Outlaw series cat back exhaust, revs and burnout
Просмотров 3,3 тыс.7 лет назад
2010 Camaro SS Flowmaster Outlaw series cat back exhaust, revs and burnout
2010 camaro SS Flowmaster outlaw series cat back, revs and burnout
Просмотров 124 тыс.11 лет назад
2010 camaro SS Flowmaster outlaw series cat back, revs and burnout
2010 dodge challenger RT flowmaster super 10 mufflers
Просмотров 10 тыс.11 лет назад
2010 dodge challenger RT flowmaster super 10 mufflers
2005 mustang GT flowmaster super 10 mufflers
Просмотров 20 тыс.11 лет назад
2005 mustang GT flowmaster super 10 mufflers
97 trans am ws6 with comp 306 cam LT headers, 4.10 gears
Просмотров 2,4 тыс.11 лет назад
97 trans am ws6 with comp 306 cam LT headers, 4.10 gears
Rob don’t know if you still monitor old videos but this tutorial just saved me a big headache super detailed and answered all my questions and doubts I had!! Better yet I’m doing it on an obs as well Thanks again Rob!!
Thanks, I’m glad it was helpful! You can basically copy it exactly then if you’re doing an obs. I haven’t had any issues with the setup so far.
@@Robs_garage90 yea the parts layout at the beginning of your video made it so easy to see everything I’ll be needing just a matter of installing it now
Stude Dude!
Sweet, thanks, very helpful. Can you ground the relay to a bolt on the body somewhere, instead of to the battery negative?
You probably could but it’s more ideal to put on the battery
Excellent installation! One of the only RUclips fuse block installation videos that is done right. Many others who have no fuse protection between the battery and the relay. Many who have grossly undersized the wiring to the relay. Many who have used standard 40 Amp, non-continuous duty relays feeding to a 120 Amp fuse block. Many with no loom wire protection or grommets through panels. This installation will provide you with years of trouble free performance.
Thanks man I appreciate that! I tried to do as good as possible and I agree, other videos I had watched were definitely missing a couple things that would keep their install trouble free
Thays cool bo
Appreciate it bo
Wheel barrow wheel bearing.
Seems to work pretty well
Wow, you sure have been busy!! Can't wait to see the Stude down on the ground.
I’m happy with the progress so far. I also rebuilt the flight o matic already too. Gonna try to keep plugging away at it.
Exactly what I was looking for. From your triggered fuse block you can feed a lot of accessoires without having each acc triggered by its own relay, of course their switches need to have enough amps to feed the acc. I want to rewire a Ford 1973 and need a triggered fuse block for head-tail-fog lights, turn signals, power windows, radio, heater, electrical fan and so. I guess this will with such triggered fuse box
Will the 10A fuse you use blow when you add more accessories to the power block? Or is it just being used as a tap to just trigger the relay with 12V to close the circuit?
The wire being used from the 10 amp fuse in the original fuse panel is just used to trigger the relay only when the ignition is switched on. It’s just a good idea to always fuse a circuit in case of any shorts, but that should be plenty sufficient just for that purpose only.
Im confused as to how you spliced into the trigger wire, you ran it off the relay in to the fire wall with the big power wire? And then you removed the injector wire from the your circuit breaker block under the dash? And tied it all in? But it wouldn’t make sense because at the end you are still getting 12v on the fuse so it is still hooked up. Help me out because this is exactly what im trying to do as well. Thanks
Excellent video thanks - I really needed this to add an auxiliary fuse box to my 1958 classic Morris Minor car to run additional equipment.. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Great! Im glad it was helpful!
Good video, thanks
No problem thanks for watching
Just curious what size gauge wire did you use for the ground?
I can’t remember for sure but it’s probably only like 14 gauge
Nice and easy! Thanks very much!
Glad it was helpful!
Wish there were links
SHESHH😤! This is straight music to the ears 🔥🔊! Love the build bro! Keep the content coming !
Appreciate it man!
What did you do with the manual fuel pump. Did you remove it?
Yes I removed it and installed a block off plate where it mounts
thanks helpful
Throw that noisy fuel pump in the trash.
….nice looking & sounding truck, what size torque converter did ya go with? 🤔
Thanks! I have the cheap B&M 2400 stall converter. It works fine but would probably perform better with a better converter
Very nice, simple and clear video. Shows exactly what I am attempting to do in my vehicle. Thank you!!
Thanks I’m glad it was helpful
Sharpies will also cure wrench marks
I ran -6 to my pump and -4 for return with a Holley blue pump. Cured my vapor lock issues 440 mopar mill.
IMO. The best way to cut stainless braided is wrapping a zip tie around the line and cut through it parallel and straight through the clamp area as a guide the gently peel tie off and a perfect straight cut and no frays. I get them first time every time that way…my .02
That’s a great tip!
SWEET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Did You Change out The Distributor Gear For The Mutha Thumpr Cam?? I am Installing That Roller c am in My '74 Vette Now,, Just Found You and Its A Great Channel
Yes I used a melonized distributor gear for the roller cam
Great vid. Thanks
I’m glad it was helpful!
You got a guess on numbers? Been thinking of getting a pair of those super 23 heads
I’d probably have to say 300 horse
@Rob's Garage right on. I'm looking to be somewhere above 300, 350 would be nice but anything over 300 I would be content
Yea man that would be great
I've had 3 Edelbrock fuel pumps fail on me ,off the shelf from the parts store , i might use Holly next time . Great video thx for sharing ✌
Thank you for sharing! I like seeing the mega fuse on the #4 feed, and the fire wall grommet. inspirational. '66 Jeep truck total re-wire
Thanks a lot! Good luck on your project that sounds really cool
Did you say 20 percent of 120 is 96?
I probably meant to say 20 percent less since 20 percent of 120 is 24, and 120 minus 24 is 96
@@Robs_garage90 rock on - that’s a sweet truck
Nicely done - looks really good
Thanks I appreciate it!
What kind of fittings did you use? Can you put the description in the comment? Thank you for your video, Ima do this to my truck!
I used the summit racing brand 6 AN fittings
Hey Rob, question about the bendix. When I took mine apart, the bendix was stuck in a collapsed position so it wasn't engaging. You couldn't see the pin hole because the gear part of the drive was covering it. I have freed the bendix up but it doesn't move very far in and out. When I watched your video where you showed the bendix moving at around 8:35, yours doesn't move much either. I haven't reassembled mine because I assumed the bendix needed to go back to the collapsed position when disengaged. Does the bendix only move that small amount and is that enough for it to engage / disengage the flywheel?
Yes the movement you see in the video is pretty much all the further it will move. It should try to retract when you let go of it because there is some light spring pressure. It won’t really snap back hard or anything like that but it should try to come back on its own.
@@Robs_garage90 Thanks for your quick reply. I found this video that shows how to get the drive to collapse. I am going to try it as I don’t think mine will work if it doesn’t collapse. ruclips.net/video/GTmxlDXL8hc/видео.html
@@chrish5758-u1j I hope it ends up working for you, but if not, luckily new ones can be found
Thanks dude, what I was looking for.
Good job gave me knowledge 2 copy and construct my own
Great timing on posting this video. I disassembled the Prestolite starter from my 63 Studebaker GTHawk 289 V8 yesterday. The starter was rebuilt 30 years ago so it is in great condition. Like your starter, the only real problem is a sticky Bendix drive that doesn’t slide back and forth to engage and disengage the ring gear on the flywheel. Since this Bendix drive still appears basically new, I am going to clean and lubricate it rather than replace it. The gears on both the ring gear and Bendix drive look great. Hope your video inspires others to repair their starters like the video did for me.
That’s great to hear! I wish I would have made more video of the actual disassembly but that’s something to improve on I guess. I’m sure your bendix will clean right up as well.
Hi Rob, great job on the starter! A lot of folks just replace parts, but like you did a good cleaning and lube will most of the time work wonders. What shop is doing your machine work on the engine? Are you planning to come to the Tri-State Meet in Maggie Valley on September 9th & 10th?
Thanks! I think I was lucky that it was in good shape. I took the engine parts to a walker auto that has some guys with a lot of experience. One guy has been there 45 years and I had luck there in the past. I personally have not been lucky with race shops in the past. They don’t seem as friendly and don’t seem to want to help you unless you are spending thousands. I will be on vacation during the 9 and 10, but I do need to attend a meet some time because I have never been to one yet
ruclips.net/video/Asgwq5cV2co/видео.html
Check out Pete's Garage. He will walk you through the steps for a rebuild.
Make sure you remove the oil gallery plugs. Two at the front and rear. One of the rear plugs is behind a steel freeze plug. Contact Fairborn Studebaker in Ohio for a R2 regrind canshaft.
Ok I will remove those. Thanks! I will check out Fairborn this week also
Hi Rob. The red paint is a primer that was used to also seal any casting sand in the block. Black was the stock color for the finish paint. I'm pretty sure that it was a semi-gloss finish.
Thanks for the info Gary!
Good deal on getting the engine disassembled Rob. Looks like a great engine to rebuild.
I’m pretty happy with it. Can’t wait to hear a studebaker v8 run in person
I've had 7 Studebakers, and one thing that I would suggest is to unbolt the brackets that hold the front brake lines to the frame, weld the holes closed, weld any cracks you see, and weld some steel plates in that area. Add the plates to the top and both sides. I had a '61 Lark frame crack there, and when I put the brakes on while backing up, the front bumper would go up and down. I had a large engine in it which stressed the frame, but the welder said that he had seen the frames crack there in Studebakers as early as 1950. I'm guessing that the frame may have had some abuse driving on dirt roads, and this might be a good bit of insurance while you have it apart. Also, I have found that Walmart has low prices on carb, brake, and other cleaners. Purple Power works well for cleaning grease and dirt from the frame. Again, Walmart has a good price on it. If the power steering cylinder is leaking, the Lares Corporation has a lot of steering parts. The system is similar to what Ford and other companies used. I replaced the cylinder with a new one from Lares for my 1959 Ford Fairlane, and it made a huge difference steering the car. These cylinders are not rebuildable, however you can replace the piston rod seal. The seal on the piston will get worn, and not give as much boost as it once did. Good luck!
Gary, thank you for the information. I have not heard about that frame issue and I will now be addressing that as well as the power steering cylinder. You are right about wal-Mart. I always buy oil there because it is the cheapest around. Thanks again!
@@Robs_garage90 You are welcome. I didn't know about the frames cracking either until the welder told me about his experiences with Studebakers. He said that the holes were not drilled in the frame, but punched when the frame was stamped, which caused stresses and cracks. I had a 1960 Cadillac 390 cubic inch V8 in the car, and I'm guessing that the torque of the engine cracked the frame. When you said that your car may have been driven on a lot of dirt roads, I thought that I'd better pass along the information. That is probably an area where the frame flexes, and those holes just happen to be there. Driving on dirt roads may add more flexing and strain. If I think of anything else, I'll contact you. Again, best wishes on your project.
What size relay did you use?
In the video, he's got a 120 amp relay.
You should look into adding a link to the parts you used so you can get paid a little. U never know some of these guys are making real $. Been thinking about getting into making videos too
Thank You!!
Loved it man… following your journey
Any updates on this ride?!
I’m going to pull the engine and trans soon and plan to video some of that
@@Robs_garage90 we got videos on a lark and should be going to do a will it run on it
How much horsepower
I’d guess about 300
Do you have a part number or brand of fuel line you bought to make the custom lengths.
I bought the summit racing brand 6AN fuel line. I believe it came in a 20 foot length