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I still use it and it functions well getting a good % to 100watts total on a good day. It is nice and thin and a good substitute for folding panels but you do not want to scratch up the surface. I'll probably put a 200w flexible one on the top of my truck.

Loved it, even the road equipment. So much smoother than Campagnolo at the time, and even smoother Shimano.

The one tool I show in that video is this one www.ferreestoolsinc.com/collections/woodwind-supplies/products/g56-bore-measuring-tool?_pos=1&_sid=3b8ddaf49&_ss=r I also use T shaped telescoping gage sets, and also a micrometer digital measuring tool - you want a good one as the cheaper one's flex. I used to use a shotgun bore measuring tool in the distant past too to measure the entire bore.

Don't forget about the modern Omega line of instruments. ruclips.net/video/fjRW_Mt23YI/видео.html

If you play well on your B12 or other plastic clarinet and you use the same mouthpiece on your E12 and you squeak, I'm going to guess you have a leak somewhere. I thought I had a video about how to check for leaks at home, but I never finished it a couple years ago. If you take just the upper joint (of you plastic one first), use your right hand to close the ring keys, and your other hand to "plug" the bottom. Lightly blow in to it. The clarinet should stop your breath pressure (keep it light). If you increase your pressure you should be able to overcome a spring or two and the clarinet key(s) will leak. You can then compare this to your e12 and it should feel the same. Otherwise there is a leak somewhere. I'm going to have to finish or redo that one video I have of that. Though you'll be kinda doing the same thing in this video just without the machine. You'll have to pay close attention to how the pressure in your mouth is as you compare back and forth between the two clarinets. ruclips.net/video/S7GcF2y2SyQ/видео.html

@@gottalovetheknowledge4749 alright, thank you, and I have a feeling I might have a leak, but I’m not entirely sure, so I’ll make sure to check, but the thing that got me very suspicious of this was because it was always the same notes that will squeak, such as Eb in the staff and C# in the staff, sometimes A, Ab, and G but those were mostly fixed with fixing my voicing and stuff

The Tosca is based on an improved R13 bore. The Divine is based on an RC bore. So the first question is whether you want the R13 bore (more ping/sweetness) design vs RC (more open flexibility). Then you'll have your answer. I play an RC Prestige and R13s. If I play in larger groups I'll play the R13 more. As a soloist I'll play the RC more, but that's my preference. I know some people would be the opposite. Mouthpiece selection can also adverse affects one results.

The B&H 1010, 926, etc are awesome clarinets. Of course, like the Selmer CT, Series 9, and Leblanc Dynamic variations are very good. I haven't played a B&H recently but I thought not only were they easy to play for large dynamics but they were a smoother tonal quality IMHO.

Thanks. Yes, it can be a struggle and various watches have various methods for adjustment. My HydroConquest now has a Longines blue leather band with push deployment on it, since for me it's not a dive watch. This band reduces the weight a lot and makes it more comfortable for wearing all day long without the weight.

The Dual Pivot really was a gigantic step up in braking. Shimano really reinvented everything about cycling and knocked Campagnolo off the top tier perch they were on for decades. My favorite single caliper though is the hidden spring Suntour Superbe (wish I kept), although I have a set of Campagnolo Cobaltos on one bike.

Wrap around register keys were very common for a short period of time in the late 1800 to early 1900s. The long register key caused issues as it would flex (and bend) and the register vent wouldn't get closed all the way. Thick leather pads were the best option for it for sealing properly.

any addition to this area is going to decrease the volume of air going through here, and probably dramatically increase the backpressure. If one sculps out material, it may make the instrument sound tubby (refer to sax mpcs for examples). Ralph Morgan "classical" clarinet mpcs have this type of scoop at the throat but this was in the total design. If one adds material this may help the reed vibrate but affect the player negatively. Additionally, there are points in a manufacturers design mapping of areas that can affect intonation. I'm sure it would affect intonation and probably increase higher partials (brighter sounding) depending upon how much additional material is here. If you obtain some hobby clay you can make small temporary inserts in to the mpc cavity and see how it affects everything. If it breaks off it will just go down the instrument (hopefully) to the floor. If you want to test scooping out material get a cheap mpc, get it working well but adjusting it then test away. I never venture too far away from factory specifications. I used to test sax mpc with hobby clay but it depends on the end result you are trying to attain. Clarinet mpcs are much more sensitive to design changes.

@@gottalovetheknowledge4749 thanks. I should have been more specific. My sax mouthpiece where the square is cut out at the end of the throat has a bit of material leftover at the edge so instead of it being a perfect right angle drop off, there is a bit of a wing or even a damn. So the air would hit that small piece of leftover material, maneuvering around it before it can enter the bore. I this a design feature? Or not considered ideal?

sorry for the late reply. It sounds like quality control did not catch that. This of how it would create air turbulence in that area under the wing. But if you want to send some pictures to gottalovetheknowledge@gmail.com

I really do not have an answer for you but I don't think the ac70 could handle it. I would first worry about the surge. Looking at the Bluetti website it states the ac70 surge can cover 1500 watts, and 1000 watts total AC draw. 120x15 = 1800 watts. That 1800 is above the specs of the ac70, even that is only about 20 minutes if it could run. Half that amps would be 996 watts. I don't think the draw would be enough to get a dryer to work at drying but I'm no means an expert in that situation. I'd also be worried about the electric dryer with only getting partial voltage - I don't know if it would get damaged. I've been curiously looking at the ventless dryers as they are 120v (mine is 240v) but have not as of yet. But I'll probably go back to a gas dryer as those pull small watts and offload the heating part to using gas. Making a better sustainable solution for me. Hope that helps. You may want to join the facebook Bluetti page as there are many experts there and other people who have tried a variety of things. facebook.com/groups/1479447962226741 . My 200max now has 2xB230s so I'm holding a 6kw storage system now . I do have an EB3A (sold the EB70S) and replaced it with Pecron e1000pro (1,000 wh), e1500pro (1450wh), and S1500F (1450wh) all for portability and camping due to size and weight (enough power for a 200w DC or AC heater which is enough to increase the temp during 30s to the mid 60s slowly but it works well for an entire night.

@@gottalovetheknowledge4749 well I just did a quick test to determine if it was possible. Using the ac70 on power lifting mode and fully charged I got 38 minutes of runtime and sustained 1030w at 100, 115, 120A with 10.2, 8.8, 8.5A respectively. if I had run those wet clothes on highest spin setting instead of a quick wash cycle, they might have fully dried. It was 4 shirts, 1 pant, 1 blue jeans. The heater did heat up and work and nearly got them done. Not bad, adding that extra 100ah battery should solve the problem.

just be careful of devices that have electronics in them (computer chips, etc) as the lower voltage could damage them

Yes I have a set with those T handles. But I used to measure a lot of clarinets to build up my spreadsheet. The hole gauges just made it painfully slow for me as no one was/is paying me for my time to calc out various clarinets including the bore (using a shotgun bore gauge).

@@gottalovetheknowledge4749 no...not thise T shaped ones. Google split ball gauge Super fast and easy!

Yes, I had a short version that I should finish and publish.

I've only seen a handful over the years of his clarinets. I can't recall anything specific about them though.

Yes, not much fun. Luckily I have not had the issue since then, but then I do not use grid charging. That was my FIRST charge on it. PV charging 100% of the time. I've added a couple D050S to the system too as I have 3 arrays. The D050S one is connected to the 200max via the grid charge port and the other a B230 battery.

Thanks for the insight. I know when I went to school @ UM, Dr Sinta and his 2nd did not like the VII. They didn't like my VIIs either. I ran across #2 (I just can't recall his name) about 15 years ago at a music store near here and he remembered and still didn't like the 7. Although if I recall they adopted playing it at some point. I have a couple videos of technical differences of the 6 v 7. I know the 7 was their attempt to automate more processes. I figured the square chamber was from the mortice from mpc production especially watching some old videos.

Yes you are correct. I normally play an RC Prestige or R13 sets. The cylindrical design of the Leblancs is quite a bit different. The tapered Buffet bore from the Master Bore through the polycylindrical bore design provides a more consistent blowing experience down the instrument, whereas the player has to accommodate that more with the cylindrical bored instruments. I have a videe R13 v LL I think ... I'll look for it. . I went from the LLs to the R13. Easy transition. But after years of not using my LL I tried them again ... wow, what a difference and the transition back to playing the LLs was more difficult than I imagined. . I also did a mouthpiece review of various mpcs on an R13, LL and CenteredTone. All varying in various ways back in 2008 ==> www.woodwindforum.com/forum/index.php?threads/the-mouthpiece-review-reviewing-a-wide-variety-of-mpcs.21009/

found that video ruclips.net/video/eMXSyR03KFI/видео.html

Thank you for the info! I gonna check the video! Mouthpiece was another thing with the LL. I had some difficulties to find a mouthpiece that was easy to play. The best i found was an old SML Marigaux mp it seems to fit to the bore quite ok. I also tried an Zinner/Richard Hawkings which was ok, but difficult in the upper register. Unfortunately i don’t know the technical specs of both of them… But they sound good. My Chedeville SAV 3 wasn’t working at all. It is one of my favorites on my Buffet. I imagine switching from LL to R13 is easier. Do you think it is worth it going through all that efforts to play the LL? I was just curious and the price was good….😊

Insurance-wise is somewhat easy. As it is either "replacement" of same make/model or "replacement" of a current level instrument. The replacement of a current level instrument is basically if you bought a 1950 Buffet clarinet, it was the "pro model". This a current level replacement would be, say a new Buffet Elite or one of the other professional models. A vast $$ difference from buying another used 1950 Buffet. Then Open Market, etc.

I haven't tried the newer Selmer mouthpieces so I'm not sure on how they vary from previous models.

technically it's more aero if the cable is routed on the backside of the round bars as then the shape is more airfoil like with the tape covering it - I did this until I went to aero shaped bars. This is early 1980s ... They drilled chainrings, derailleurs, brake levers, et all but not the frame (from water ingress). But if you have too many holes you'll get whistling at speed such as with the Cinelli "light aero" Spinacis of the time.

The "X--Beam" was an after install device (except the later Heavy Duty version mentioend below). It had two sided tape on each flat part that you can install on to the inside of each set of blades. But you may also recall that Spinergy also then started making Three Versions of the Rev-X. The "light" version that had yellow stickers, the "normal" version was blue (?), and the "Heavy Duty" version with red stickers which came with the X-Beam pre-installed if I recall correctly. description of X-Beams www.google.com/imgres?q=spinergy%20Rev-X%20X-beam%20stiffeners&imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fi0.wp.com%2Fbikesnobnyc.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2024%2F04%2FScreenshot-2024-04-23-195449.png%3Fresize%3D716%252C821%26ssl%3D1&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fbikesnobnyc.com%2F2024%2F04%2F24%2Fyou-spin-me-round-like-a-spinergy%2F&docid=FU5ClSSwCjF4WM&tbnid=c7HALdG6mpH5tM&vet=12ahUKEwix16X9iqKGAxUAmIkEHR35BmwQM3oECG8QAA..i&w=716&h=821&hcb=2&ved=2ahUKEwix16X9iqKGAxUAmIkEHR35BmwQM3oECG8QAA

@@gottalovetheknowledge4749 wow!!!! ❤️❤️❤️❤️!!!!you know ALOT!!!, i have 8 on ROAD BIKES , none broke, 2 with alot of chips and dings from rocks, im 170lbs, never a crack or fracture...only heard of 2 in my entire life, some tour de france rider and some random dude on the internet....2.......to be honest i really believe it was competion companies that intetionally broke them!! and FACT got them banned from the UCI!!!! they make that sick awesome sound above +15mph...clinchers at under 110psi..on mine the x-beam are carbon fiber and are literally epoxied and are part of the rim, it does make them alot stiffer!!

I still use the 26" MTB version on my old Trek Y-Bike. I loved them on the road bike but back then there was a lot of complaints of them breaking (I hated crosswinds); it appears those Bicycle forums are long gone from the internet now. Of Course, after the Rev-X Spinergy came out with the ROKS-XE 6 blade wheel. There are two basic Rev-X generations which is based on the hub to spoke area. The early Rev-X where the bearings are aligned with the spokes, then the 2nd generation with the bearings further out. Since you have so many you may have both generations. If you notice the bulbous area on the inside of the spoke blade, I believe that contains a layout of fiberglass in there. The internet is not full of the problems when I search just now as it was back then, but here is an interesting read for you ==> pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-020/

I should add, I loved those Rev-Xs. They would disappear underneath you above 25mph as they cut through the wind as long as there wasn't a side wind. Great above 30mph. The only wheel I tried that surpassed them years later was the Campagnolo Bora Ultra II / Fulcrum Racing Speed XLR (full carbon rim) tubular. Those wheels are ultra light and disappear too once up to speed. I use WTOs now but still have those XLRs and love riding those too.

There's also plenty of web forum and pages out there mentioning the Spinergy's and catastrophic failures ... you just have to want to find them www.cyclingweekly.com/news/latest-news/icons-of-cycling-spinergy-rev-x-wheels-214741 www.bustedcarbon.com/search?q=rev-x you just have to search for them (especially archive.org) My only incident while riding them was when I was trying to adjust my front wheel Avocet computer pickup sensor. My hand slipped went into the spokes, My hand stopped the wheels and my bike flipped up WAY into the air, bouncing back on the ground after I came to a stop on the road. But the wheels were fine, so was my hand, although I had a slight concussion and needed a new helmet.

Joachim, can you send me an email with pictures to <edited> gottalovetheknowledge@gmail.com Steve

@@gottalovetheknowledge4749 Hi I sent an e Mail- did you get it?

I did not. I just noticed the email address in my reply yesterday was incorrect somehow (someone else's email address). my email is gottalovetheknowledge@gmail.com

@@gottalovetheknowledge4749 Ok- I’ll try again.. thanks Joachim

@@gottalovetheknowledge4749 You have a new Mail now..

Thanks so much. Hope things are going well in Eugene, Oregon too. Clarinets, even professional ones are like cars .. a big depreciation. But then it also depends who sells it. A pro selling an instrument may have a higher price than someone in college with the same instrument as the pro should be keeping it in tip-top condition. And a teacher to student sales usually are higher as the "support" is more direct. All that versus places like eBay where the depreciation is higher as there is normally no after sales support. I paid some pretty good money for a yamaha 62 purple label in what looked like really good condition on eBay. Checked it over and what a disaster - those are what my Yamaha 62 videos are about.

gottalovetheknowledge@gmail.com Try to copy and paste the email address above. I'm getting emails and no low on storage notices from google.

Yes, but please refer to my April 25, 2023 video ... sometimes certain stuff causes problems.

W mans

pictures would definitely help. email to gottalovetheknowledge@gmail.com But the stamp 926-B-32 would probably be an inventory stamp, and I'm going to guess for a 926 imperial (pure guess) as I don't know what the B-32 would be.

the bar goes though a small pipe shaft that is soldered on to the deployment thin flat pieces that fold. The other wide bar the spring is in a two piece pipe shaft to connect to the other half. gottalovetheknowledge@gmail.com and we can swap pictures and compare.

Yes I do still own it. Although I replaced the metal bracelet with a Longines Blue padded strap with push button deployment (was going to make a video of this swap sooner or later). I still have the bracelet. One can take apart the bracelet completely as it only has those spring rods in it. If you email me gottalovetheknowledge@gmail.com I can send pictures.

Yes this was a professional instrument. If it's in good shape than a good overhaul would do it wonders and be a lot cheaper than a new one. On eBay these are selling from about $500 to around $1000 dependent upon condition. Altos are not highly sought after so prices vary in open auctions.

£75 converts to $94 USD (for my understanding). It's on the low end for B12 so I would be worried if it requires work. In the U.S. it looks like they sell for around $200-250 for in good playing condition, which of course would require some play testing of it. Always confirm that you can return if it's not as advertised (which of course the seller could say it was. Auctions always are difficult for condition and returns.

Don't know what a model # 1207097 is. But from your email that would be a shreiber made clarinet (probably for Buffet). But I don't know what model as I would have to see some pictures like this www.woodwindforum.com/clarinetperfection/help-identifying-my-clarinet/

A Classic II ? My SN lists has 1974(ish). But I'm not sure that is correct. If you send me some pictures I could check the emblem with my info to see if it fits in that date or an earlier emblem and year. gottalovetheknowledge@gmail.com

The good news is that it is an R13. But nowadays few people want an (EB) Enhanced or (FB) Full Boehm. But one would more than likely prefer a FB over EB. I used to refurb and sell EB/FB Buffets and they usually sat in inventory for a long time before lowering the prices vs Standard Boehm (SB) R13s which usually were sold before I finished them. But I would think you should be able to get $1100 +/- $150ish for it in general. If it looks excellent, no damage, etc then more on the high end as long as you are not in a hurry (at least in the US market)