Видео

Yay! Yay!! Yay!!!! Congratulations! You’re gonna do great!

Anytime! Thanks for watching 😊

Thanks for watching! 😃

I’m not really sure how you want me to respond to that. Laughter is the best medicine!

I have absolutely Zero experience with oven baked clay. 🤷🏻‍♀️sorry

Yes Mam! When the spray starch dries it will leave a tooth on the surface and as the glaze re-wets the starch, the starch will help the glaze stick. Some commercial paint on glazes may not really need it. But pretty much all dipping glazes will slide right off a fully glazed pot.

Yep!

Thanks for the tip

6:08

I don’t pretend to be a professional 🥴, I don’t strive to be a master. I had my reasons for waxing these. This is more of a figuring it out channel, me and my garage trying out things. I’m in it for the adventure and the laughs. If that’s what you’re looking for welcome to the channel! 😊

This was how the studio where I learned required it be done 🤷🏻‍♀️. There are a million ways, that’s what makes pottery so great.

I just filled them in with slivers of clay. It was still super fresh so no need for water or anything

Oh yes absolutely. You will likely get a much better representation of the names of the colors. Like violet for example would likely be fine.

I hope so!

Wow great to know! Thanks! I will be avoiding those in the future as well. 🤔where does one find the footnote? I bought my stains from the supplier and there was no literature. I also looked at the mason stain website and didn’t find information like this. Thanks so much for the explanation.

1. The clay will not shrink more or less with the addition of glaze. So no, you don’t need to glaze the shrink rulers. 2. Ideally you want less than 1%. However, if it is not being used for vessels that need to be watertight,-food- then it doesn’t really matter. That being said, the reason you tested, and the reason you want to know, is so that your work will not be subject to the same manufacturing flaws the other potters who use a more absorbent Clay might have to deal with. -handles popping off in the dishwasher or microwave 3. finally remember that some clays won’t ever fully verify to less than like 3% a raku would be an example of that. An earthenware clay is going to be porus until it begins to melt and become misshapen so we say it Can’t be fully vitreous. but for most clays if you fire them hotter, sometimes, they will become vitreous. Laguna B-Mix5 is an excellent example of this; in my kiln it is still porous at the recommended cone 5, but at cone 6 it is vitrified less than one percent. Lots of people use a hold to push a clay to a higher cone value to get the vitrification. -something you could test 😊 thanks for watching!

Thanks so much! If you can’t laugh at yourself life is no fun 🥳

Life without laughter is not worth living! 🤪🥳 thanks for watching

I turned captions on at 8:25 in the video, & slowed to 1/4 speed, but there were no captions & it was still too fast. What is your process for putting monoprints onto bisque??

Thanks for the feedback 😊 sorry I couldn’t help.

I have edited the captions just for you! 😊 idk if what I’ve done here is really considered mono print. 🤷🏻‍♀️ but all I can say (that’s not in the video) is that it takes tons of water. Water the bisque lay the tissue down and then fully hydrate the tissue paper. if it is going to work the bisque will call to absorb the water and the underglaze will follow the water. Not all underglazes will transfer; and if it does, not all of the underglaze on the tissue will transfer from the tissue to the pieces. It’s not something I really pursued after this. so I can’t remember anything more. sorry 🤷🏻‍♀️ this was 3 years ago. sometimes you just need to experiment. that’s what I was doing here. if your working with bisque you can always wash it off! good luck!😊

Yay! Yay!! Yay!!!! Levi was so good at pottery! He kinda got derailed because I didn’t explain things well enough to him. He needs to come back and do it again. 😉 I was hoping everyone could get another go on the wheel but y’all left so fast. Pottery happens all over the world though! Have y’all seen pottery in any of those night markets?

You do not have to re-bisque. But the only ones I’ve ever had that failed were ones like this where I only glazed one side. So glaze both sides of the piece. That being said on this particular piece, it did break, after I inadvertently knocked it around, but because it had fired fully in place, I was able to glue it back together with superglue. Certainly not something I’m gonna sell, but definitely worth giving away and not losing the time after it was already bisque and I couldn’t recycle it. Clear as mud? 🥴🤪

I’m so glad! I’ve had several people tell me it was a game changer for them too!

There is also another video I did with some more techniques that you might find beneficial here: Must try pottery throwing techniques ruclips.net/video/94l13sZxgj4/видео.html

Just goes to show how important it is to have options!!! I have worked more with this clay and find it comes from the store too wet. That has helped. Thanks for commenting!

Thanks for the tip!

I don’t get it

So sorry to hear that. I guess we can use that as one more piece of evidence that pottery is unpredictable🤷🏻‍♀️ or maybe that all clays are different.

Thank you! I am really excited about it. Now how do I tell people all the things whilst selling from a craft fair booth 🥴🤷🏻‍♀️🤪

Oh My Goodness! You have your pottery in a gift shop!?! That’s so awesome! I’ve been wondering where you’ve been. I think the whole notifications thing is kind of a joke these days. I am hoping to get a Patreon page up soon because I can’t set it up so that those that want all the notifications will get them that way even without paying. Especially since I haven’t been able to be very consistent lately. (RUclips really punishes for that.) congrats on the gift shop thing. That is so cool.

@@CallUsTemily It really is odd that the videos don’t come up. Also I put in the search kiln opening and pottery etc and it takes forever to find new videos. Anyway I’ve had my pottery at the gift shop for 2 years now. The only down side is that it’s only Mother’s Day through the middle of October. I NEED to find another place or 2 that sells all year long. But I’m sure I will in time. Thank you so much for being such an awesome clay friend!!!

@micheledickey4066 thank you! I have my work online but it doesn’t sell that way. I would like to have a gift shop around here but the ones around me are saturated with cheap stuff or full and not taking pottery, or so expensive to get into that it’s just easier to do shows every now and then. I’m in a place right now where I think I might drop back and do stuff just for me for a while. I think that would also benefit the channel as well. We’ll see🤷🏻‍♀️ 😊

Technically you can’t. 🫤🤷🏻‍♀️ However, technically a hold is allowing more heat work to happen. It is essentially allowing the glaze to melt more than it otherwise would. So some things you can do to allow more heat work including putting a cone higher than your desired cone in the sitter, then watching your target cone fall and manually adjusting the percentage power dial to a lower power for 5 minutes after your target cone falls, or the speed dial at the bottom from high to medium for 5 minutes after your target cone falls. You could also put your target cone in the kiln sitter and, being there when it falls, lift the shut off lever, press the button and turn it back on for another 5 minutes. But in these cases you would always need to make sure you have a guard cone you can see in the peephole as well. However, I have never done anything like this before. I fire to hot cone six, so I do get a little bit of extra heat work on my pots, but keep in mind I am only relaying what I have heard. I will also say, if you know you have a Glaze that “requires a five minute hold” you can still use that glaze but don’t expect it to look the same as it would if it had that hold. It is more advantageous to work with glaze recipes that are designed to be used in a manual kiln. 🤷🏻‍♀️ This can get frustrating sometimes, but don’t give up it’s still worth it! 😊

You can sand off seams with a green scrubby at the bone dry stage. Like the kind that come attached to sponges to wash dishes and bathtubs. It’s way easier to do that at greenware. I’m not sure why anyone would encourage you to send scenes after the Greenware stage. Maybe someone misunderstood what you were asking. However, as for would the clay, be soft enough to sand down at cone 06, it depends on your clay. If you have a mid or high fire clay (which porcelain will be) then it will be soft enough to still sand at the stage. It will be way harder to do, but it is possible. I would think you would have to do it with a Dremel or something like that in order to get the amount amount of pressure you would need and still preserve the details in the surrounding area.

Aww thanks! Glad it was helpful

☺️❤️

No. This is ceramic clay. It says that in the title but who reads titles these days? 🤷🏻‍♀️me neither! Lol 🤪

Yes, I plugged the relay wire into the wrong import slot. So it was connected electrically and turned on, but not firing on full power.

Thanks so much!!! I try to make it entertaining for the general population I am glad to know you found it worth the watch. Welcome to the channel! And keep commenting! 😊

Interesting. 🤔 let me know how it goes. And thanks for watching!

LOL 😂 I had forgotten Algebra was a bit of kryptonite for you 😘❤️❤️

It was a challenge for sure. It is still going on as well! I am taking most of them down to 2.5% and 1.25% looking for some Easter pastels. Thanks for watching!

@@CallUsTemily Awesome! Quite the undertaking for sure.

Yes you are totally correct! As was noted in the pop up texts- and I also said I wasn’t sure if I was using the terms properly. But thanks for bringing it to my attention, I was able to cut that whole section out of the video as it was unnecessary anyway. 🥴🤷🏻‍♀️. (It may take a few hours for RUclips to update the edit though) This was 3 years ago and I was pretty much just Vlogging back then. Hopefully you will feel as I do that I have come a long way since. Although I have never thought of this channel as a how-to channel it more of a figuring-it-out channel. 🤪🤪🤪🤪. Have a great day!

So glad to hear that!!! I assume you are taking about the bags in the background and those are shower caps! So you’re seeing the elastic. you can’t cinch them down but they’re great for so many things. I unloaded all the test tiles this morning and the video explaining the test process I used on all the samples I should have edited by next week ☺️ thanks for watching! Let me know if there’s anything else I can help with.

Nice thank you!

Sorry pal. I’m not a pro and have had some learning issues. But I always edit the subtitles. So if you get one like this that drives you nuts. You can hit the cc button for closed captions and turn off the sound. I can’t win them all. 🥴🤷🏻‍♀️ ps. I would hire someone to fix it, as most do, but this channel has never brought me so much as a penny 🫤

Also, on some of the older videos I am kinda slow. So you might like to speed up the playback speed as well.

I’m still not through testing all the colored clay colors and I can’t tell you the excitement I feel about the possibility of everything getting a clear coat and being done! 🥴🤪🤪🤪

@@CallUsTemily LOL.... I know mason stains like the back of my hand--- So easy to throw Amaco's zinc free clear over vibrant colored clay and declare it done. I will add that I also use gold luster to move the needle from 'yea, great ' to 'wow spectacular'. Yea, baby!

@PamelaRoss-qh6jh Yay! Yay!! Yay!!!! I am excited all over again!!!

Thanks

It moves automatically. That’s the way it amps up slowly. That prevents some of the risk of explosion from water vapor. It also may not reach all the way to 10. That’s fine too. Wherever it stops that’s full power. And that may even be different load to load. 😊

That’s fantastic. I’m always ready for words of wisdom

Maybe muddy was the wrong word … I used a zinc free clear. So….🤷🏻‍♀️ but the one with the clear isn’t muddy so much as it’s showing the difference in the thick and thin parts of the underglaze. This is common in my studio and a big reason why I am trying out colored clay. I feel like the issue had more to do with the lack of 3 coats of underglaze. I tried to get as much under glaze as possible but once the pater was saturated I really just moved it around rather than laying down more. 🥴🤷🏻‍♀️

@@CallUsTemily Ahh! It’s all so involved, isn’t it? I love your videos and have learned from them, and been very inspired by what you share!🥰

Oh thanks so much! I don’t know it all for sure but I am always happy to hear that it’s worth the effort! 😊😊😊

Thanks so much! I hope you enjoy your new kiln and studio as much as I do. Just fyi Commercial glazes are formulated to go on either 06 or 04 with ample open time. If you make your own those are like trying to paint chalk on to 06 and are better at 04. Since this video I have also experimented with 08 and single fire 🔥 😲🤪 it’s a super fun journey welcome to the club ☺️

Thank you!! So much good info and yes, I hope to enjoy it too. Now to calibrate the thermocouple. Ugh.

You’re out of my league there🥴🤪 but I will say I am in the camp of using witness cones even in programmable kilns for the peace of mind 🧘🏻‍♀️

Thank you so much! I like making them but lately I’ve struggled with regularity. But I am hoping I can get into a rhythm again this year. keep watching and keep commenting, it makes my day ☺️☺️☺️

Thanks so much! It was a fun project and a great way to learn. He loves it. He’s the best Daddy ever.

Good thought. I have since tested it and this clay does vitrify (under 1% absorption) at cone 6 so that does make sense. Thanks ☺️