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@@jaxx751 oh yeah. FB performance 4STB-E. (Highly modified 4R70W) Full manual shift, still has OD. It's a 1000hp trans. 3600-3800rpm triple disk lockup converter. It's a great trans

As well as the wheel specs and what spacers?

​@@BigTurboB5 that wasn't my car, just another SN. It was serious though. Much more so than mine. You can probably find him in the Facebook SN autocross pages. He was still active recently. KC area

It's been a couple years now...not sure.

@@nathanunderhill3211 it's a hoss. Great for drag and drives. I'm hitting it with 700+ to the tire. It's done 2 drag and drives, total of 2000+ street miles pulling a 1200-1500# trailer. I've got maybe fifteen 9 second passes, ten-ish 10 second passes, a handful of 11+, and another 10-15 1/8 mile hits, most of which were 6.2-6.3. I'm a fan. Idk if it'll hold up to 1200hp...but we'll find out one day. I'm pretty sure it can handle whatever this SBE 351w can handle. Mine is a Fred Brown 4STB-E. I hear there are stouter 4Rs out there...but for what he charges it's been great. I have a friend that has one as well.

@@thuhintimidator I was looking for a core 98+ 4r to build myself in the Seattle area but just couldn't find one, I just picked up a working c6 for $50 im going to build, really want to do a drag &drive car but i haven't seen many D&D events in the PNW especially Washington. I'm also putting together a 351w, want to try out the 351 s480 combo.

@@nathanunderhill3211 I'd have done a 6r80 with more time and, of course, money. 351 and s480 should be fun! My little VSR 7875 has been doing great for what it is

@@thuhintimidator yeah I looked at the 6r80 too but I don't really want to run a bellhousing adapter.

2s. I haven't checked that. It's similar to, or better than, time with the stock motor.

Seems fine. Mild idle and easy to drive. I don't see a reason to switch as it makes good power and is budget oriented top to bottom. Decent power up till I stop around 6,000rpm. The whole thing is a good enough combo to make 705 wheel hp on 11#. Bottom end is probably the weaker link at that point as it's a true sbe. I've run it at 14# and its 1/4 trap mph went from 141 to 146mph at higher altitude. Gotta figure that's close to 1,000 crank. So yep, I like it!

@@thuhintimidator what time did it do at 14# in the quarter mile?

@@rafaelroman5649 9.61 I think. I didn't get a slip for the front half. The car doesn't have a good boost controller so it was overpowering the tires and suspension at the launch. That was at 5k DA. I think the same 11# tune would do 9.4 or quicker local now that the suspension is done better. We'll find out this year. Maybe an 8 is in store for the ol sbe

So far so good. 1500 street miles. 15 or so passes on different days. I haven't torn into them for this 2024 season. Box stock. Probably just leave them alone besides lash and valve stem check. I feel they did good enough I'm not worried if they die. Made 705 on 11psi and I made a few 14psi passes and picked up 5-6mph. Probably was making 800 or so. Good setup for a stock 351w.

One last question. Also, what duty cycle % were you looking at with that pump and injector size?

7.400 inch pushrods from BTR using stock type head gaskets and stock roller rockers. I recommend measuring your own. I truly don't recall the duty cycle for the injectors on gas or e85....but low %. The pump is good for another 300-400 wheel hp on e85. The injectors go further than that. I got the flowmatched bosch 210s and spacer hats from VSR. TFS fuel rails.

I've not dug into those. I don't really want to mess with this frame much. Lots of memories with it and I don't want to make it irreversible. That and alternate engines are expensive to obtain and test. Id just as soon figure out how to efi swap it and turbocharge the 229 in it. Although a WR engine would be stinking cool

@@thuhintimidator I don't do any mods that are permanent or irreversible I would make brackets that bolt to the original frame engine mount to the other engine. I would look at the frame of the bike I was taking the engine from. All the guys at the local cycle world where I live thought I was crazy after finding me laying under new motorcycles on the showroom floor with a tape measure and a pad and pencil then one day I showed up on my TW now only half of them think I'm crazy and the other half get it.

Yes the big wheel 350 will work with someone frame modification. I have the big wheel 350 forks and triple tree with a two rear rim on front the axle bolt shaft on the front of the BW350 is identical to the rear axle bolt shaft on the TW I also have a banshee 350 rear gas adjustable shock on the rear. A "webcam" brand motocross race camshaft and springs makes a big difference on a stock engine with carb and pipe upgrades.

Half? What WAS removed, was a mistake. I could've just removed the underside support and it would've cleared. I just didn't know that. I mapped it out on cardboard, but it didn't need most of it by the end. Old hood that was beat up, so I wasn't sad.

@@thuhintimidator ah I see. Live and learn lol. Sweet set up nonetheless

@spoolinsvt6489 100%. It survived raceweek and averaged 9.8x after all the race days. It's getting suspension upgrades now

@@thuhintimidator Damn, cant be too mad about that. Just picked up a canary yellow 95. Have a hci 351 on my stand waiting to go in it. Trying to figure out what im going to do for a hood

@spoolinsvt6489 not a bit. For a budget rig it did great. If you use edelbrock 4150 efi lower with a mid rise edelbrock efi upper intake (look at some of my older videos) you can get close to fitting under a stock hood. The normal long runner intakes like this tfs r are too tall

You ain't been to the drag strip much. 😂

Thanks! It did 140mph at 6000 DA in Pueblo, CO on the 11psi. Though we didn't get a chance to dyno at this level, it picked up 6mph for a 146 on 14psi. It's amazed me for such a basic setup. I think a cast wheel turbo and typical 3" intercooler would have struggled more. It's held its own against similar LS setups!

Thank you! It was a long time in the works...but runs good!

Howdy! I'd tell you but I don't remember haha. However, there is another video detailing all the parts I used. Should be able to find it under my video list. Thanks!

Wut?

Ha, I wish I could recall. It's been a minute. Can't remember if higher or lower kv gets ya more rpm or more torque. You won't be lacking on power any direction you go on tooth numbers. Larger will be higher speed in total.

Awesome have fun!

Oh yeah! Weighed in at 3034lb with ½ a tank of gas, without me. Looking for some 9s

Meh 🤷‍♂️

I was hoping so as well. Now that the carb is tuned it does scoot pretty good on the low end. However it still needs a bigger carb for the top end.

You are welcome. Thanks

Well, having had nicer SBF heads before, they are ~ok. Definitely budget heads. I think issues will come from the valvetrain side. Already had a rocker stud come loose and they are only ⅜ studs. Likely would be a lot better with bigger studs, better valves, springs etc. So we'll just see

Why not both? Lol. Green car handles well. Has interior, radio, AC etc, but is baby supercharged with a tko600 trans and 3.55 gears(Shocks/springs/SFC/panhard bar/LCA/torque arm- waiting to install that one) Black car is drag car for drag week type stuff. Turbo sbf, built auto, caged, some suspension...etc

@@thuhintimidator not hating.........have fun man, that's what it's about.

@yoursistermustang agreed. Now if I can just get this car to go as fast as yours

Thanks

Hi. Maybe a little longer than the stock 550 brushed motor, but really depends on how hard it's pushed. I don't have a number in my head for how long it lasts. 7-10 minutes or less I'd say. Not hard to use a bigger battery though.

@@thuhintimidator thanks a lot 👍

Verdict is: skip it. I'd try the shorter one maybe, or some sort of cushion. Tall one is too tall and there is ZERO extra squish.

That's what I've suspected as well. Stock exhaust is gone, and the stock carb is jetted as well as it can be, but just doesn't flow enough air. Great bottom end now, just flat on top.

The low end power feels much better. Butt dyno says it worked going through the gears. Top end charge said 60mph was hard to hit, whereas it could hit 70 stock...hence the wimpy carb suspicion

Carb pipe and one step up motocross rase camshaft and springs from "webcams" racing cams has my TW running like a 350 it will stand up first and second no problem even with the heavy rear rim and tire up front

A base gasket leak has started seeping so I have been thinking about boring the original cylinder but some information says the sleeves are thin and can't get a 40 or 60 over bore . If someone knows different please let me know what the stock cylinder max reliable bore and piston compression numbers are. I would greatly appreciate it while I'm changing the base gasket. That's for any reply

No I didn't. Wouldn't surprise me if needed.

The problem with the TW is the size of the hole in the crane case where the cylinder slides down in the case it's small and won't accommodate a much larger cylinder and it has a short stroke compared to most other engines

Sorry, this all came together. Mine is a Series 2 supercharger. There were 3 different ones, and I don't know which ones came with intercoolers. Mine was stock. If you don't have a heat exchanger idk where to go for that. Probably better going to methanol injection. If you are just missing the Air to water intercooler/lines/tank/pump setup that's easy to piece together. Even just ebay or Amazon. Nothing special needed. Even a nice big derale transmission cooler with 8AN lines and a fan would be great. Water tank in the trunk, and some sort of remote water pump. Easy.

Yes basically I’m dropping it in a 1996 gt, it’s all plug and play with an ecu tune but yes the only parts I would be missing is the heat exchanger which I’ve seen universal ones for a couple hundred bucks but yeah pretty much all the lines tank ,intercooler , water pump. But the supercharger is part#178-553 I think it’s a series 2 aswell. What heat exchanger are running? is it the oem still? I’ve seen a bunch but I would like too get this as close as spec too possible! You know what I mean

@@SCJcontent it's not exactly plug n play, but it's workable. My blower parts are all stock except the water pump and coolant lines because I put it all in the trunk. I wouldn't worry about the factory spec too much as it isn't great.

@shanebom793 do you want me to make a video of the setup as it is, in the car?

Not off the top of my head. Cross referenced a Wiseco order catalog for this 200-250cc platform. The atvs like the 225s will sell a high comp option for however many mm over it is. I used a timberwolf stock jug and head from China ebay.

Actually it will be different I was going to punch out from 71 to 74mm and run that wiseco high comp in mine I hear you can take them up to that size

@XXXCRSPL the TW jug will support a little overbore, but you need to step up to a ttr/xt jug etc to get more than a few cc. Honestly I've heard excellent things about the stock or slight overbore TW high comp piston vs the big bore/stroker stuff.

Yeah it needs some help. It's acting like the MAP is reading way off. I Guess I should log it and see what's up. Hard when it won't run lol

Just a generic lighted gauge kit from American Muscle or somewhere. Kind of a pain in the rear.

Hey bro! Haven't said howdy in a bit. I'm ok, how are you?

@@thuhintimidator all good.....still playing with my junk too! 😆

Pretty sure an ebay timberwolf 250 head. Same as ttr head best I could tell except for cam. It's a double ball bearing cam vs a journal bearing cam that sits in a machined recess. Very nice, but probably a crummy cam profile.

Thanks for the reply I'm in the process of doing the same thing..I just bought a TTR 230 complete bike and a parts bike with a disassembled extra 230 engine for $700 so I got a little bit to play with

It needs a cylinder so I was going to try the timberwolfs

Did you notice an increase in power? The million dollar question lol

@XXXCRSPL bottom end yes, top end no. Pretty sure it's a carb limit as I'm on a late model tw200 carb that's jetted out as much as I can. Needs a ttr or xt carb.

I just used a heavy duty tractor grease that I use when I grease the tractor. You could use wheel bearing grease from an auto parts store or from a tractor supply/farm store.

Right around that, yes

Thanks

Oh? What leads you to say that? Mine has done very well for 8 years now. The two other dentists I work with also have lumadent lights that have been doing well beyond a decade now.

@@thuhintimidator I received it last month and I've got a light with a CRI 76, SSI RF74 (Spectromaster C800) . Surely, not a professionnal light. Did you took any measure of yours ?

@subinfluenta I see. While interesting, I do not see that information as helpful. Have you purchased, bench tested, and then practiced with this and other headlamps for comparison? A headlamp is not capable of being "professional," that is our job. Perhaps it simply isn't what you need. Every medical professional who practices with a head lamp will have different needs. As a general dentist (DDS), I need something practical...meaning lightweight, unobtrusive, warm color spectrum, reliable, cleansable, and as cheap as possible. This is about as good can be found for THAT criteria. The light does not make me or anyone else more professional. Since you seem to have not used the light practically and imply you've only evaluated its lamp outside an operating field... your initial comment appears premature and perhaps as an unprofessional reflection of yourself. I hope this isn't actually the case. Take care!

@@thuhintimidator you don't see the utility because your habits. Used with a cheap crap for years doesn't makes it better. Any professional may be as critical with his equippement as with his treatments. If you're not familiar with the terms, youtube, google or better chatgpt may help you understand them. My light has a color relative index CRI equal to 77.4, below the reccomended value (85) of ambiental light. Any ordinary bulb has more than that. For a professional light it should be above 90, but ideally not too far from 100. My Zeiss microscope has a xenon light with a value of 98 (CRI). The color temperature does not comply with the standard. With a value of 8518K, it's a lot too cold comparing with the natural light or the usual dental unit light (5800K-6500K). The dental unit light (Sirona Led View Plus) has a CRI of 94.2 and a color temperature of 5782K. Despite the bad quality, the quantity (intensity) is very good. At 50 cm (my working distance with my Zeiss loupes 3.2x/500), at maximum power I measured 20000 lux wich is above what I need, quite impressive for a tiny light unit. On the TM-30 circle chart it has a level of only 74% comparing to natural light. The SSI value (Spectral Similarity Index) is close to 50% of a professional good light.... Sorry, but you can't call this a "professional" tool.

If you drill out the mounting holes for the motor into slots, you can change the gear on the motor to smaller/larger

@@thuhintimidator thank you for the quick reply !

@@linh811 happy to