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Correct

haha true

Make them subscribe as well lol

Probably one of the '' I know it all'' guys made that mess

Sorry to hear that. Did you address the issue? What was it?

I know but I didn't had tires from all stages. My bad.

Bumps minor accidents hitting an animal who know how does anything happen 😂

I think what goes out is the sway bar end links

A sway bar itself rarely goes bad since it's a solid metal bar, but it can develop issues like cracks, corrosion, or deformation from excessive stress, or its associated bushings and end links can wear out, leading to problems.

Yep

Also true.

Same here

Definitely a bad blend door actuator.

Why do you say that?

Please tell us more.

What's the problem sir?

Did you check the sway bar?

p0300 Code - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0302 - Cylinder #2 misfire detected P0303: Cylinder #3 Misfire p0171 Code - Fuel Trim System Too Lean (Bank 1)

Welcome

Yes

Bruh

Everyone tries to save money.

Either a worn oil pump or the bearings are worn out of tolerance, or both.

The light could turn on immediately after changing the oil, but it should go away if you have enough oil. If the light is still on, check the level.

O don't mean to answer over him, but yes, I would replace both of them..

Correct

Hi, please share your issue.

Sometimes

One of the reasons in the video.

Thanks! Did you do it?

The issue you're describing with your Silverado could be related to the HVAC blend door actuator. These actuators are small motors with plastic gears that control the movement of the blend doors, directing airflow and adjusting temperature. Over time, the plastic gears can wear out or strip, causing the dull noise you mentioned.

It takes a moment for the pump to build up pressure.

@@flszenso its ok?

@@davidjulianto Yeah, being on for 2-3 seconds after starting the engine is normal.

Happens to my car as well, pretty normal.

Correct

Could be work for 5 years more o less. Depend on how you drive and how you care your vehicle. But usually broke when you go over the road driveway..

Depends on how and where you drive your car, but I would say 5 to 7 years max.

Fixed?

1. Misfire (P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire) The intermittent nature of your misfire and its resolution by manipulating the coil wiring suggests there may be an issue with the wiring or connections to the ignition coils. What to Check: Wiring Harness and Connectors: Inspect the coil pack wiring harness and connectors for: Corrosion or moisture intrusion (likely after power washing the engine). Damaged insulation or frayed wires. Loose or poor connections at the coils or ECU. Dielectric Grease: Apply dielectric grease to the connectors to prevent moisture-related issues. Ground Points: Ensure all engine ground points are clean and secure. Poor grounding can cause intermittent electrical issues. Coil Packs and Plugs: While you’ve replaced these, double-check the installation: Ensure the coils are seated properly. Verify spark plugs are torqued to spec and have the correct gap.

2. Turbo Underboost (P0299) This code indicates that the turbocharger isn’t providing the expected boost pressure. Since this issue appeared before and after your ignition repairs, it likely isn’t directly related to the misfire but should still be addressed. What to Check: Vacuum and Boost Leaks: Inspect all vacuum lines and boost hoses for cracks, loose clamps, or disconnections. Pay special attention to the charge pipe, intercooler, and connections to the wastegate and diverter valve. Diverter Valve: On 2010 Audi A4 models, the factory diverter valve can fail (older diaphragm-style valves can tear). If it hasn’t been replaced with an updated piston-style valve, consider upgrading. Wastegate Actuator: Check the wastegate actuator for proper operation and ensure it isn’t sticking or disconnected. Turbocharger Health: Inspect the turbocharger for excessive shaft play, oil leaks, or damaged impeller blades. MAF and MAP Sensors: Dirty or malfunctioning sensors can affect boost control. Clean or test these sensors as needed.

I have the same issue, i replaced my cabin filter and then the next day i could mostly only feel the air at the passenger feet area

@@orlandodavalos289 The next day, it started working properly. try vacuuming the upper grille area, it could be some rubbish that is blocking it.

Likely Causes Faulty Mode Door Actuator: The mode door actuator is responsible for directing airflow to the appropriate vents (e.g., defroster, dashboard, or footwell). If it's stuck or malfunctioning, it may fail to redirect air to the front window. Blocked or Stuck Mode Door: The mode door itself could be stuck or obstructed by debris, preventing proper movement. Blower Motor Issues: While less likely, if the blower motor isn't delivering sufficient pressure, airflow may be weak in certain areas. Control Panel Malfunction: A faulty HVAC control panel or wiring issue could prevent the mode door actuator from receiving the correct signal.

Welcome

Welcome

How old is your car?

Welcome

Please share your issue.

Were you loosing any coolant without leaks?

Yes, the blend door actuator and the heater flap actuator motor are essentially the same component, as both control the movement of internal HVAC doors to regulate airflow or temperature in the system.

Completely irrelevant to the air filter, but thanks.

Take it back to the shop.

Thanks for watching

That works too :)

try changing the ignition coil

Did you try what op mentioned? Did you use denso sparkplugs? It could be a vacuum leak or camshaft position sensor

Best solution is sell the car no more headaches

The P0300 code (random/multiple cylinder misfire) and delayed engine start in your 2002 Toyota Celica GT could be caused by a faulty ignition coil, crankshaft position sensor, or an issue with fuel delivery such as clogged injectors or low fuel pressure.

Can you please rephrase your question?

Thanks

I’m late but this has no effect on it. This just filters the air your engine sucks in, unrelated to your hvac. This is either an electrical issue or simply how your car is designed

No, you likely don't need to change the blend door actuator if the AC recirculation button doesn’t come on when the AC is running. This issue is more likely related to: HVAC Control Module: A fault in the control module or its programming might prevent the recirculation function from activating under certain conditions. Electrical Problem: A wiring issue or faulty connection to the recirculation system could cause intermittent operation. Recirculation Actuator: If the actuator that controls the recirculation door is failing, it could behave inconsistently. You should check the control panel's functionality, wiring connections, and the recirculation actuator before replacing any components.

Glad you enjoyed it

Hello

Not sure to be honest. I haven't tried.

So nice of you

Haha we are an endangered species!