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just needed a clean XD

I agree with the other people. Great video man :)

25-30 minutes for a video when you're repairing stuff is pretty good even if the repair takes an hour and you cut down on the footage by not showing you cleaning the pins or something like that is fine or say for instance you repair another game when the game only takes like six minutes to fix

I think targeting 15 to 25 minute videos are best. Some RUclipsrs have another channel for their longer videos. You could post a cut-down version of the video (15-25 minutes) and then a separate "long" video that has all the detail.

Nice video! Great to see another game working.

I don't think there is a "right way". But looking at it through the microscope and soldering any loose pins is probably faster then trying to use the multimeter, so I would try the faster one first.

with gameboy games, i clean then then reflow all the pins on the main chips before i test it again. I dont even check the chip pins like you did, ive had tons all have solid pins then a reflow was still the solution. Maybe weak or broken in a not obvious way. All the only takes a few minutes so why not do it all without all the extra checking

Solder will always come up gray if you're using that polish.

As one of my favorite repair people, JDT says, clean your flux while it's hot.

keep at it. everyones gotta start somewhere

Good job restoring the game! Why do people say the stove top cleaner isn't good for the contacts? Also, I subscribed to see you run the game over :p

It's a fake... black blob

90% sure that cart is fake. Those blob topped chips are rarely used by legit sources

Good video! Next time try automotive plastic cleaner and polisher products. They can help reduce the visibility of the scratches on the plastic.

im not sure how these work. but, you were on the right track with the schematics. Next time use the schematics to find paths from the pads to chips to avoid scratching at the board.

Great video learned lots. What are your thoughts on using a fiberglass pen on cart pins? I've used one in the past as a last resort after the isopropyl alcohol clean and an eraser doesn't work.

I used to have a Phillips meter that looked very similar to that. Excellent meter for back then.

Enjoy your "new" multimeter. Name suggestion "Uneven Steven" 😅

Return of the king!

is that an ice tray to organize screws? Genius!

This was hilarious

Don’t give up on Mortal Kombat ii you probably have to reflow all the solder points on the board

Those resistor like components, they are capacitors too. At 15:54 you accidentally pressed the hold button in your multimeter, making the little H appear on the display. It freezes the value it was displaying when the button was pressed. Nice saving the Sonic 1 cartridge.

Nice silicone cooking pad, I have the same.

Brilliantly done, congrats on the solve! It'd be interesting to look at that failed mapper chip and see if we could figure out why it was giving the Game Boy CPU so much grief.

Smh they are not resisters at the top. They are capacitors. And I’m almost positive they are the problem. I’m only 12 mins in. So idk yet if you did fix it or not. But if the parts at the top where resisters as you are saying. It would say R1 and R2 not C1 and C2

To remove the polyurethane coating run your soldering iron over the wire with a bit of solder on the tip. That’s usually what I do.

Just a tip from one amateur repair man to another, if your hot air gun has an airspeed control and you're having trouble getting a chip on to the board, turn the airflow down, it definitely helps, especially when you're dealing with tiny tiny components.

I love the song from this game. Super nostalgic chiptune for me

A heat gun on low might be better for removing labels because I can still see slight discoloration on the edges of the label when using lighter fluid.

As long as you remove the cleaner (or brass polisher) completely with IPA after using it then no damage should be done. The issue is if you leave it on there then over time (months or years) it can slowly eat away at the copper/gold pins.

If you sell a game I would put in there that you did a case swap even for non-expensive games. However, if the game was pricey, $100 or more for example, than a case swap may reduce the value of the game. Unless the cases are identical.

Honestly the IPA is enough. I use deoxit if it needs more. Deoxit is expensive though.

Great video again 😁👏😁

When it comes to stuff that you've been doing for a while and it works for you, I would just ignore the Naysayers. If it's worked for you and it hasn't caused any issues, then it can just be another one of those methods that people can use. That's why I watch as many prepare channels as I do. Everybody does at least one or two things differently and learning all the ways that stuff can be fixed is better because then I can find the ones that work for me.

Glass cooktop cleaner/car headlight polish is fine. It's a fine grit polish. Not a cutting compond like brasso

nice job! i can see you are new at soldering. you really need to get all the solder that is still on the pads of the PCB off of them! so you have a nice flat surface to work on. then your chip is not jumping when you try to put it on it's right spot. you need the good old copper wick (solder wick). buy the one that have flux on it and if it stick cause by error you soldered it to the PCB never pull on it! you de-solder it with your soldering iron you can also add some flux to make it works better and try on garbage boards so if you destroy them you don't really care. continue that way you are on the good path trying to fix electronic stuff is the best way to learn!

When measuring capacitors it is never a good idea to do it in circuit since other stuff affect their reading and as you shown in video it jumped down to zero on the dmm showing a dead short. just remove the cap or lift one leg on it and measure the cap directly and if it still shows a zero value in diode test it is absolutely shorted, it should also read a rather high ohm value too. and when re-mounting ICs to the board it gets way easier if you remove the old solder on the board first with solder wick and then tack one corner or two on first. it won´t slide down to the side if there is no solder to slide on. last note is that you can also measure data lines for shorts too and not just VDD and VCC and you may find more things not correct that way. I have a Sega genesis game that have the same issue and I checked everything so it is absolutely one of the chips that died on that one too

Dude congrats, it was great seeing you solved that problem.

Do you take mail-ins? I have a water-damaged gameboy pocket motherboard

Transitions vs. speed up depends on what is being done. If it is a long section of cleaning an entire console, let's say, then speed up is better. If it is a shorter section of maybe just cleaning the pins then transitions may be better. I guess it also depends on the source video. You may want to cut out some not so good footage and then speed up the rest.

Watching a technique is superior to an editing cut.

3:42 definitely show it off on your microscope.

I had a ton of shovelware games that all needed to be reflowed. These are super fun to repair. 👍

I'm flattered. The gel super glue does like like to seep. I normally just wipe it off with alcohol and a q-tip while it's drying

For the pins that are no longer long enough to poke through the board, you can solder in all the other pins to connect the chip to the board and stick a cut component leg from a capacitor or resister through the remaining holes, flood with solder and clip to size. As far as the bend, jusr re head (without the chip on) and mush it flat. These boards a generally fairly simple so minor mistakes can easily be corrected. Just have to give it a try.

the soldering gave me an aneurysm