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Can we assume all temperatures referenced are in centigrade?

Very interesting comparison . The reason why on the left with full burn all the time surface temperature was lower may be because the speed of flue gases was too high. I am going also to build masonry heater. Do you have experience with rocket masonry heater - batchrocket with heat riser, vortex? Could be big difference between "classic" fireplace with afterburn chamber and any rocket stove? In terms of clean burning , flue temperature and total amount of heat from the same amount of wood.

As Winter is coming again, Will you Be making More masonry Heater videos. I think interesting video topic would Be to explain secondary Burn and how it is utilized in different heaters. I do know its something to do with re introducing oxygen to The Burn gasses or something but More indepth explanation would Be nice

So interesting. Thank you.

hey whats your main channel if i may ask?

Correct, the current batch of Canadian politicians are ridiculous. The heat pump fallacy is but one.

I wonder how this would work on potatoes?

I’m not familiar with your oven heater but have you tried partially shutting those baffles while it’s burning hot to see if it slows down your draft instead of choking down the air? This may help the heat soak into the bricks faster without a dirty burn? Anyway to monitor flue temps? This would be a good way to monitor what’s going on as well.

Nice video! Do you ever take temps from the outside of the bricks with an IR thermometer?

Thanks for geeking out - please continue...and kindly do a review of that interesting looking masonry heater wall

Great video, love the side by side test, and would love to see a comparison between new and an old sand trapped stove!

Thank you for making these fantastic and thorough videos! I’d love to see more examples of old Finnish and Swedish masonry heater/stoves. I’m building an off grid cabin in Swedish Lapland and was planning on building a classic Swedish kakelugn or rörspis. Do you have and recommendations on books or schematics for building your own stove?

good job

Smoke Fromm the chimney Is not good indicator. When is wood glasses combustion ok smoke must completly gone....

Your infrared themometer is seeing a reflective metal surface, which includes cooler images lowering your overall reading. The wall is much less reflective surfac e giving a more accurate reading

Thank you very much, and yes, I did find your clip very very interesting. Five stars and two thumbs up!

Thanks for the update! These experiments are fantastic, they're giving me ideas for how I'd like to build a "root cellar" into the foundation of our home. As always, I greatly appreciate you putting out these videos!

I'm curious whether the exhaust is as clean on the 2nd burn as the first, what the temperatures are on the exhaust and whether they're using the same amount of wood (I apologize if you said this last and I just didn't catch it). Part of the point of the rocket mass heater is to have a very clean burn. It would also be interesting seeing a head to head of a this against the same amount of wood in a well designed rocket mass heater (could be someone else's) as a comparison. How heavy is this? The small footprint is appealing for certain situations. I suspect like other masonry heaters it would require some remodeling for support to add to an existing home.

very helpful. Thank you.

Thanks again for taking the time to make this video! I will be incorporating this idea into my round house design for our Alaskan winters.

You need to bury the refrigerator the dirt

Very interesting but how well does it heat the space and how large of space does it heat? Just seems like those temps aren’t very hot?

I’ve seen some ones who had the ash collection tube in the basement to keep that one defrosted as well

The most effective masonry heater I've experienced was at my aunt & uncle's house in Minnesota, and I was kind of amazed by it as a kid. It actually drew cold air from outside the house rather than warm air from inside. As my uncle explained, 'if you let it draw from inside the house, the house will suck in the cold outside air anyway to replace that, so you may as well draw it directly from outside." I never knew exactly how the inside of it worked, but I remember it taking an armload or two of wood in the bottom chamber and a few sticks in a tiny upper chamber. You had to light the upper chamber first and let it burn for fifteen minutes before lighting the bottom chamber. It didn't *seem* to be getting hot at all - the outside of the heater was only a couple dozen degrees fahrenheit warmer than the house. But two armloads of wood (and a handful of sticks) kept it warm for four or five days. The chimney didn't seem to smoke at all, and there was hardly any ash left when it was time to light the next fire.

thank you!!!

So you run your awesome bake oven with draft fully open until it's fully roaring, then damper it down (not closed, guessing hallway by the look of your fire and speed of flames) for the next two and a half hours, then fully open the damper again (full air) ... very nice I see that as very efficient ... for my wood insert I run it wide open whenever there's new wood loaded ... then damper to engage secondary combustion ... I'm sure my insert is hopelessly inefficient compared to yours .... I guess a good sign is that my glass is nearly always clean and the neighbors have never complained in 20 years (there are easily 100 houses nearby)

So jealous of your masonry heater, I am stuck with a cast iron wood insert Looks delicious ... what could be better than home grown butternut squash and parsnips! (and yes we have grown both here in Ohio) Thank you for putting these videos together, please make more 😊

I wish you would keep your audio volume at an even level.

We dress our masonry heaters up with glazed tiles on the exterior (Romania).

Great video. I’m obsessed with these ovens.

Per my comment below,.... the draft is very impressive, but that's because of the extremely long riser in that giant metal tube. A "J" rocket will draft like that on a small, 3 foot (or less) riser. Please see my comment below on the website you must see.

Thanks again for the good video and excellent graphics that assist. The stove though, is not a rocket. It's simply the Russian concept of "burning inside the bell" combined with a European style "counterflow" masonry heater that goes up through the baking oven, down the sides, and out the bottom. Burning "inside the riser" or inside the bell does not produce the massive draw of a "J design" rocket. Even the "batch box" has somewhat of a J design and draws far more than burning inside the riser. If that was the same, the "rocket stove" addicts would be doing it! - I'm building a similar design now to what you just talked about, but I'm using bricks based off this old "USSR era" Russian stove,... which is very similar to EU "counterflow." Trust me.. if you don't know this website OR you can't see the link because, like you said in another comment.. it's Russian... you need to find a way to see this website... Get a VPN or something....... I can tell your interests are like mine. You MUST see this site. You'll be entertained for weeks. - Matt air-hot.ru/index.php/pechiikaminy/otopitelnyepechi/166-pech-kovalevski-2200 This is what I am replicating. The site is simply air-hot.ru

Very interesting, thank you. I particularly appreciate your diagrams. Perhaps the chief lesson here is that excess air might drive an impressive blaze but is also pushing heat up the chimney (not to mention pulling cold air into the house to replace it). I have a question about construction - how do you get the metal case over the brick lining - have you very high ceilings, or is it in sections that can be dismantled? I struggled to even get an oil drum over a tall rocket riser because of the ceiling and would appreciate any tips. Thanks again 👏💯

Great! More experiments like that. With apples would be interesting.

This is very interesting. Would you say the local ground temperature is 5 degrees Celsius

Thanks - really interesting ;-) How I see it and think it is/was: The reason for the older model's different design is that previously they did not use the type of ceramic insulation that we have and can use today. In order to achieve some form of insulation between the channels, the wall thickness was therefore increased in some places in the older model. The outer metal barrel set a limitation, so therefore the wall thickness of the internal channels had to be set according to the best possible judgement. I therefore believe that we must take this into account when we want to develop a new model based on old experiences. In the new improved model, we should take into account both the physical "laws" and properties, and recent experience for each individual component. We want to achieve as good a draft in the oven as possible and at the same time as good a utilization of the heat energy as possible. Design principles can therefore be: Every time the flue gas rises, we regard it as a chimney where we want as high a speed as possible and with as little heat loss as possible, because a heat loss in an upward flue gas will slow down the flue gas because the density increases, i.e. we insulate the chimney. Because we work with a closed system, each section, i.e. an upward or a downward section, should be seen separately. Every time the flue gas is cooled, we want this to take place when the flue gas is in a downward direction, because the cooling increases the density and therefore cooling in a downward direction helps to increase the draft in the furnace. (Large cross-sectional area and large volume in the downward channel is desirable, and relatively large wall surface with good thermal conductivity and large thermal mass. The large volume gives the flue gas time to release heat. Think: bell). There may (probably) be a need to use a shunt damper when the oven is started. And perhaps also one or more other dampers if the stove is built in an area with very low winter temperatures, because when it is extra cold outside you can actually allow the flue gas to be cooled a little more and still have a heat surplus (differential temperature, i.e. temperature difference between bottom and top of the chimney ) to drive the flue gas up through the chimney. On the other hand, this will also complicate the use of the stove, so it is probably worth considering how much it should be optimized because if you do not understand how to use the stove, you will end up with smoke in the house. And thank you for the description of why you remove the glowing coals from the stove. I'm thinking whether you could make a system where you can push the glowing coals into a small, separate mini-furnace, which is airtight (i.e. carbon monoxygen-tight) in relation to the house. But if it can't be made carbon monoxide safe, it's probably better to carry the glowing coals outside as you showed. You showed in a previous video "Finnish masonry heaters. -The baking oven. Part 2." , that this oven has a secondary combustion chamber, and now I understand even better the significance of this.

I have found this very useful, I am researching sauna and I am curious if you have come across a masonry sauna heater?

Yes please & thanks

Very good job, not many videos explaining these heaters backed up with numbers and time, thanks

Very nice, thank you. The Pönttöuuni reminds me of the Utermark stove, which was developed in the Russian empire in the 1820s (ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Печь_Утермарка ). I think that's where the idea of the metal sheet came from, as Finland was part of the Russian empire at the time. The Utermark stove had several up and down channels to maximise thermal efficiency by getting the last bit of heat out of the exhaust gases.

If I had the financial ability I would fund your research. Thanks for the useful info. God bless

If I may I'm operating 2 coal stoves a stoker and a hand fired. 3rd and 5th year. To burn efficiently I've been a gusting them like a carburetor . Could you make an adjustment on the wide open stove buy closing one door and adjusting the other door . The other stove seal the door tite and leave the ashes.

There’s my way and then there’s the wrong way 🤷‍♂️ I think the most famous pönttöuuni right now is painted in the long drink colors. You can find it by searching ”long drink + pönttöuuni”, even the newsmedias covered it just a few days ago. When people renovate the old houses, nowadays they tend to paint the oven to match rest of the interior. I still very much like the function over form look of them.

Thanks/ Tack! . Excellent oven.

Looks or has similarities like the Siberian stove but than different and in brick, and do they have after burners

Very nice videos. I think that you will eventually stop damping down your masonry heater. A properly sized masonry heater, when used properly, can go on for some years without need of chimney cleaning. Sure, they accumulate some light ash, but really nothing that demands attention. Your willingness to do a cleaning twice a year is no big deal -if you are doing it yourself. But if you are bringing in a chimney sweeper twice a year, that is a real expense and so contrary to the masonry stove lifestyle. Here in America, in northern Maine, if you can even find a competent sweep, you will sell a kidney to pay his fee. Also, be mindful, that those who decide for whatever reason to cut firebox air during a burn, will get creosote on the interior brickwork. I can promise you that you will not get those interior channels clean of all creosote. At some point, the creosote will burn. That will crack your interior layer of firebrick. And, moreover, cleaning that creosote degrades the interior masonry over time and also will cause cracking. A masonry stove is an heirloom item. It should go on for decades without a hitch. Please reconsider cutting air supply. On a different note, your coal/ash chute is ingenious.

Ok, I am going to subscribe. With my 130 year Shop building and 170 year old House, both of which are brick, I believe I can benefit from your content. Thanks. John in Bethel, Missouri. USA.

That's a brick oven to cook in not to heat the house

My old 1980s heat pump freezes up by +2C

Thank you very much for the video, most educational. Would love to hear about the old Russian stove!