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You should see the 18" version almost doubles the cfm.

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@@yadrianromero2408 VA164-ABL806HT/R-116A this is the universal mount version. you can also get the 19" camaro ZL1 fan which is the same 18" spal but comes in a shroud. I have a video of the 18" here its a 850w 18" blade and when its shrouded I have it at 5300cfm+ ruclips.net/video/JJlwPuX7uSE/видео.html

And I bought the same spal fans that you’re using in this video.

@@dubble-m1 I just watched your video. Are you trying to test them the same way again or are they installed on the car and your trying to test them with the same PWM generator? If your testing them off the car (exactly like in the video) you need to make sure its powered off the same battery, check connections and lastly you could have fried the PWM generator. You can manually override the fan by applying GND to white and 12v to the yellow activated the fan. This will activate the fan to 100% with soft start. If you testing these on the car then your PWM generator needs to be powered by the same power source as the fans are. I've tried using a battery in the car and then a separate 12v battery to power the PWM generator and the fans wouldn't work. I would verify the fans work by manually overriding with some gator clips. Fan should spin up... if they don't then somehow you killed both fans which doesn't seem possible. More than likely the PWM generator just died. Your PWM generator is different than mine, I like the oldest style with the knob and it has a "on/off" button. Someone tested them and that style puts out the best/strongest signal. If the fans are in the car, just manually override them with some gator clips to verify the fans work.

ITs all over the internet. Its 3 connections, black is ground and red is battery 12v (you can run a fuse if you want but OEM does not) and the signal wire (white wire) goes to PWM source. Yellow wire is not used.

​@@jonathanstansfield735 ok thank you sir 🫡

​@@jonathanstansfield735how about without PWM? where can i top or connect the white wire?

@@michaelgonzales23 You can manually override the fan by applying GND to white and 12v to the yellow activated the fan. This will activate the fan to 100% with soft start. You could wire this into a ground or 12v+ activated fan temp switch basically turning this into an on/off like a regular fan but you get the soft start/ramp up with the other benefits. The PWM is where these fans shine though that way you don't need to run it at 100% usually ever.

It’s mostly just noise. I have a rpm meter and this fan puts out about 2800rpms at full speed. The smaller blades and high rpms make it sound like a turbine but bc it has small blades the CFM is low. I tested this and it spins 800 rpms faster than the Flexalite flex wave 3000cfm 16” puller (in my other videos) but when you calculate CFM it’s about the same maybe slightly more with the proform. The proform has a really nice and simple soft start and ramps up very nicely tho. Basically has built in soft start with decent airflow. I measured to see if I could swap the proform to the Flexalite but it wouldn’t work as the motors and fan hubs are all different. The proform is not a bad fan but it’s not 3000cfm and either is the Flexalite.

@@jonathanstansfield735 ah ok thanks. I have a 16” SPAL and wanted to see if this might but less noise and move more air but I guess not.

On a dual 1” rad core in the video I measured and calculated 2086cfm actual. Depending on your spal if it’s brushed it could do better but that depends on what you have currently. The spal will have high amp spike if it’s brushed so if your not running a soft start controller the proform will be much better that way.

If you wanted more air and all the perks you should look into the brushless spals or delta pag. Both a 16” spal brushless or delta PAG will get you into the 3000+ CFM range.

Awesome thank you. It’s currently a brushed spal and the radiator is two row 1” it’s just cooling a stock sbc 350

@@m300slr eBay. Guy was selling the fan, shroud and a complete harness with sensor brand new for $250

Depends on the spals. I have dual 11" SPAL paddle board and they pull 1050CFM each through a dual 1" core rad at about 12.5amps each. So duals is 2100cfm actual which is pretty decent. I don't have the 12" proforms to test but given the actual flow numbers you prob wouldn't gain much if any over the good SPALs. You will however gain soft start, slow ramp up and hopefully increased life span with the brushless motor. The issue with the proforms is the size (12" is really a 11" blade) and the blades are super thin.

@@jonathanstansfield735 I have the 30102052 I can not for the life of me keep my s10 turbo cool enough,what do you recommend I was thinking the c7 fan

I ended up also ordering a vintage air setup for a C10 to put on my firebird, A quick trim to the shroud and I should be able to install this and it is somehow lower profile than my current Derale/Spal fan combo setup. The Derale shroud with dual 13" Spal brushed fans is 4" deep, the vintage got the Spal 18" down to 3 1/16" somehow. Be careful with the Delta PAG unit. A guy on one of my forums had his brand new delta pag unit ECM burn up after 15 min of run time. Delta said it was his wiring and its $140 for a new ECM. If your doing a single 16 or even their 18" it won't pull as much as the SPAL 18". PAGs 18" only pulls 26 amps for a claimed 4,100cfm... A proform 16" rated at 3,400cfm is 23.5amps (300w motor) and only pulled 2080cfm when on a radiator. I do not believe the 4,100cfm of the PAG without seeing some actual tests with an Anemometer. Even the Spal 18" is rated supposedly for over 5000cfm was only pulling 4,400ish through a rad core and it used 73 amps. PAGs response is usually our motor is smaller so more airflow (hes not wrong) but generally thats only about 10-15% flow difference and I don't see how the motor has enough power to pull the air at that size through anything with a decent restriction. If you get it be sure to post a video with a anemometer so we can figure out the calculations. Also you can get the SPAL 18" from a ZR1 camaro for $350 new on amazon which is cheaper than the DELTA PAG.

​@@jonathanstansfield735 can you post the Amazon link to the zr1 fan?

a.co/d/2KGwFzj The one in this video is not the ZR1, the Amazon link is. This video is the aftermarket spal version which has a different set of programming and can be used as a pusher as well. Basically has different ranges of frequencies that do different things.

@@jonathanstansfield735 Big thank you!

yes, straight blade should pull more air but the curved blade will be quieter. The curved blade design cuts through the air but reduces its output. I calculated the airflow of this fan and Its only putting out 2087cfm when its right on a dual 1" core high flow aftermarket radiator. Thats a loss of 1400 cfm from a rated 3400cfm which is likely a open air rating (AKA max airflow but not realistic). They are very low profile outside of the motor. I think if you have minimal space its the best your going to get as they sound insane when going full speed. I think the smaller 15" blade and lack of depth hurts these and just doesn't push as much air. A slightly larger flexalite flexwave puller brushed can has a 15.5" blade and only pulled 180-190w (about 100w less than the proform) but pulled close to the same numbers airflow wise. I beleive this is bc the flexwave has wider and slightly longer blades. Neither of these come close to a spal 16" brushless which is a full 3" deep all the way through so bigger 16" but wider fans and double the power.

Not sure, it could be its pulling current through the PWM generator but I haven't tested further. Maybe the motor is staying energized internally after a certain duty cycle (48% and higher). If I disconnect the wire the fan shuts down so it must be getting voltage or something through that wire even when the PWM generator is off but still connected.

Does this mean that this fan would be a poor invest ?

@@SD70ACE- no, the fan puts out a true 2,000 cfm in a very low profile package with PWM. You can use the PWM or just send 12v with a standard relay to the PWM green wire. That will activate the fan, soft start and slow ramp up to 100% airflow. It's not a bad fan and I'm sure will help alot of people who need multiple low profile fans with decent CFM. Two of these would do a solid 4,000 cfm at 42amps and be pretty low profile.

you have to send 12v to the PWM wire (green) and it will soft start and ramp up to 100%.

They pull a good bit of air. I've been running them for 6 years no problems. I just don't like the startup noise with the flexalite controller.

@@cesarsaldivar8138 that’s alot of $$ lol. These things are normal $500 per fan with no harness or anything. They do move a good bit of air tho.

@@jonathanstansfield735 it’s worth it! I travel a lot to Baja California and the heat out there is horrible. No more overheating and AC works the whole time.

@@cesarsaldivar8138 Makes sense and then thats money well spent!

no problem! I'm comparing this to a flexalite 16" flex wave brushed and the new proform 16" brushless low profile. The Spal clearly wins but they usually retail for 3x the cost.

@@jonathanstansfield735 Have you tried the Delta PAG brushless fans? Their 16" fan kit with adjustable controller, ECM and sensor goes for less than $500. Supposedly performs just as good as Spal.

@@jonathanstansfield735 Have you tried any of the Delta PAG brushless fans? They have a 16" fan kit that comes with ECU, adjustable controller and sensor. Costs under $500 in total and supposedly performs similarly to the Spal fan.

Whatever resistor was included but I didn’t have it installed at this time. I did it later but make sure you have the speedo programmed correctly for the tech signal it’s getting. OEM ECM is 4cyl and so is the fitech. Holley is 8cyl so you have to go through the settings in the tech to change it to the correct signal and you shouldn’t need the resistor. I don’t run the resistor anymore as it was just a test but I also run the Holley termx now.

no, I have the ECM set to manual trans so it doesn't look for any sensors.

This was a non intercooled setup, The turbo sat under the seat and the exhaust was a vince and hines header and I plumbed my own exhaust from the header to the turbo and then out the turbo and out the back above the rear tire. Hardest part was fabbing the intake which I welded out of sheet metal to attach to the 4 carbs and then put "pitot" tubes in the intake (like airplains use). The stock carbs worked fine and didn't really need to make any mods besides tuning with Jets. I ran a innovate WB02 so I could get the AFR correct.

It was much faster and had alot more top end. THe bike moved for being very heavy. I can't comment on top speed as I don't have the bike anymore. I did end up runnning 14lbs of boost.

Nope, no drone but it was too quiet. I swapped it out for a mufflex 4" catback (hawks sinister) and put a vibrant street SS 4" muffler on it. Its still really quiet and can cruise on the highway no problems but I picked up some lost boost with the added flow of the 4" catback over the 3". So now I don't even need to open the cutout.

@@jonathanstansfield735 I’ve got a 3” exhaust off the turbo goes down pipe right into muffler by the trans then a section of pipe that dumps out in front of the passenger side rear tire. I’m looking for quiet and no drone. Have a black widow 14” oval in there now. It’s loud and tons of drone.

@@chadreitzel1570 THe black widow and chambered mufflers are not great and overly loud. I always opt for a perforated core straight through style for high flow or turbo style if you need to knock it down. The 3" catback with the single borla was to quiet for me and the 4" with the vibrant muffler was perfect. I have a video on my channel of me cruising with the 4" catback on the highway you could watch/listen to.

@@jonathanstansfield735 the BORLA pro xs is a turbo style correct? And I’m glad to hear it was too quiet because quiet is what I’m after haha. We’ll still maintaining good flow. 4.8 with a gt45 on 10psi currently but want to up to 14

@@chadreitzel1570 No, Borla pro XS is a straight through perforated core style. A turbo would be even quieter. If you took that gt45 off and went with a 78/75 you would pick up a ton of spool time and more power. The GT45 are cheap but super old diesel tech and prob doesn't start to spool till after 3500 maybe even later on a 4.8.

I don’t see how it affects the sensors unless you have a leak. They replace the stock manifolds. I had to return mine as they cracked and were repaired like 3 times and I had enough. Tried another brand of shorties and removed them due to leaks around the collectors and just went back to stock manifolds.

What brand ​@@jonathanstansfield735

Yes, I figured the pump failed as the O-ring was brand new and I'm pretty sure I didn't mess it up on install. The new pump and new o-ring making sure its on correctly and haven't had any issues. It could be your O-ring as when the oil is cold and thick the pump can pull it and make pressure with it but once it gets hot and thin it looses pressure due to the Oring not seating, pinched or twisted. I haven't driven the car yet (summer car) with the new pump to get the oil good and hot but I have way more pressure so I'm thinking I'm good.

Upgraded to a 70/70 VS racing turbo, with an EBC im running about 13-15lbs boost on 93 pump spraying wiper fluid. Fuel pressure is 43psi with 72lb injectors and running a walbro 450lph in the stock tank

Nope, plug into the stock wiring. High beam is fantastic the low beam is not very bright or wide. I've switched back to projector retrofits as the low beam is so much better.

@jonathanstansfield735 Awesome! Thanks! I'll have to see for myself.

Hellcat 22x9 OE replicas for the Ram 1500

That was the original 150k mile long block. Its been refreshed with Morel 3515s.

Kind of, talked with transgo about the stage 2 recal/shift/reprogram kit and found that the 2-3 shift valve got stuck in the valve body. It now goes through all gears but haven’t had the pressure gauge back on it since.

@@jonathanstansfield735 Cool man!

No kit, I got a universal Steel battery bracket/mount and put it in the back where the spare tire was. Then got 20ft of 0guage pure copper welding cable for positive and made my own connections. The Negative is also 0gauge but its only a few ft to the frame and from the engine to the frame.

It did alittle around 1700rpm, I added a ZZDP Drone muffler before and it killed all the drone mostly. I don't run it anymore and I moved onto a JBA catback which sounds really good.

Nope, 99-03 gen 3 motor. original stock pump with a washer/shim in the bypass and I have a pickup tube girdle to help keep it bolted down evenly to the pump.

Yea, I'm not too worried about the -1 its more the 0 oil pressure! My reading is suggesting the O-ring on the pickup failed or the pump bypass is stuck open. This is and issue as the engine warms oil pressure drops and since the motor is dead quiet likely isn't a bearing but of course could still be. I'm going to have to pull the pan and inspect I will likely pull a rod cap to inspect as well and see whats up as well as looking to see if any cam bearings walked out.

Yes basically. Most of it is interchangeable with the remaining LS platform. I prefer the 5.3 over a 5.7 or 6.0 bc they have a shorter stroke and thicker cylinder walls so they are stronger for boost.

@@jonathanstansfield735 interesting good to know man I was happy with the old 4 bolt main 5.7 but it definitely sounds better thank you for the info

Original stock 150k lifters, swapped out for morel 5315s with a custom cam solved the tick.

It ran good, made 12psi with smallest 3” pulley with a stock 5.3 LM7. Then did a custom cam and lightly ported the stock 806 heads and boost dropped to 9ish psi. Logs show about 650 crank hp. I did run a FMIC and sprayed some wiper fluid as water meth on 93 pump. Now I’m turbo and make 700+ but this supercharger is going on another Project.

It’s drop in no tuning needed and very mild and not noticeable. It’s built for a car that’s isn’t done yet so no comment on how the power is.

How can run without maf..? I fire up mine end only idles..not rev

High beams are fantastic and I would say better than high end HID nice on projectors. The low beams aren’t that bad but not on par with decent HID projectors. That probably has to do with DOT regulatory mandates for max lumens etc. 100% worth it and I have experience with lots of different cars headlights and optics. Like you said the shallow 5x7 doesn’t allow for much room especially on a pop up headlight design more than a van or truck with the same headlight but fixed. But DOT street legal sealed USA plug and play performance is hard to beat these. There is a pair of headlights on Amazon for $90 that look comparable to these from reviews and output shots but your not going to have the longevity and warranty compared to the JW speaker. Stuff is worth the cost if you got the money.

yea, what you got?

@@jonathanstansfield735 I put this in a atv frame turbo and all and can’t get clutch to hold up

@@justindunlap2659 not sure I’m following. Is this about the katana motor with a turbo or did you turbo an atv motor?

@@jonathanstansfield735 I took a katana 600 turbo and put it in a quad

@@justindunlap2659 ah gotcha. I didn’t have problems with the clutch but perhaps you need to rebuild it? Is it slipping only in boost? Mine was a light switch at 8k and went from 0psi to 12-14psi in a snap.

I had one originally on this car and it was worth the money. $3k for 12psi and 650hp is not a bad deal with a warranty. I had some issues with belt slip but thats because I have the smallest pulley and belt wrap isn't the greatest. But I believe that is the original (old design) and they have since updated with a larger crank pulley and a larger pulley on the headunit so you can't go as small as 3" so belt wrap is better. I still have my torqstorm and I'm trying to fit it in a C3 corvette but the suspension is in the way.

@@jonathanstansfield735 Thanks for the info

Probably probe related. It needs temperature to activate the fans but also to trigger the cool down and soft start. This is why I opted for the thread in sensor as I find the rad probe to be inaccurate and wonky at best.

@@jonathanstansfield735 yeah i thought so i seen comments on the web about the probes being inaccurate,;( But i was think getting a set of probes that have lower ohm reading so it can trigger the fan earlier, im waiting a comment back from summit about the controller issue but i will see their response

@@LaserGazerMan did you try bypassing the probe? Use the AC override or the ground or positive triggers to activate the fans and see if the soft start and ramp down is working correctly. Summit will just ask flexalite so you should just call them and bypass summit.

@@jonathanstansfield735 no i havent, i have the ac trigger currently hooked up to the 12v solenoid ac compressor when i start the vehicle not warmed yet and turn the ac on fan kicks on full speed no soft start, yes will be contacting flex a lite directly

just found out the controller i bought is the wrong model dam summit racing, I talked to a Flex-a-Lite tech and he said model 107000 controller that i bought is not a true speed controller and i said to him that means its just a solid state switch that just turns on and off with a delay feature OMG!, After that the tech recommended a model "The true variable speed control part numbers are 123195, 123241 and 107012" i told him again the manual says 60% to 100% speed control and tells me "yeah we use the same manual for all models but we don't know why we do that" So the listing is misleading and the manual also, sounds like this can open a can of worms i will be contacting Flex-A-Lite sales directly to get this fixed and refunded i will post an update if anything comes up.

yea that was hilarious

Which ones? All the analog are speed hut evolution 2 gauges, the small OLED AFR/Boost gauge is Innovate motor sports and the red one in the upper left is a AEM truboost EBC.

Negative, this was the first time I started it up as it was a 150k used motor. I think the lifters needed to pump up. This combo ran 2 years at 10psi and no issues. I eventually did a custom blower cam and morel 5315 lifters with the supercharger. The same motor now sees 15psi with a billet 78/75 single turbo and has no issues or knock.

Not really, you can def hear the supercharger if your near the car but that’s what straight cut gears give you. It’s the distinct noise of a straight cut supercharger. I pulled in a car show and drove by a guy who said he knew it was supercharged just idling by him. In the car driving u don’t hear it all you hear is the BOV and maybe some supercharger noises under boost.

@@jonathanstansfield735 That's really helpful. Thank you. Ive been considering a torqstorm for awhile and think I might pull the trigger

It works well so I wouldn’t hesitate to do it. Builds boost pretty early too. Only issue I had was belt wrap as I’m running the older kit with the smallest 3” pulley for max boost. I think the newer kits have bigger crank pulleys so you don’t need to go as small on the supercharger to get the same boost so u have more belt wrap and this less slippage.