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Hello Patrick, thanks for watching and commenting!. I am enjoying you channel, but I have a question for you... When soldering a wire to a panel connector with a short bit of shrink insulation "waiting" on the wire, what is the trick to prevent the shrink insulation from shrinking from the heat of the soldering prior to moving it to final position?? I am working on retrofitting a Jianken 2.2kW ATC spindle to my machine.

@@richardevans6891 That is an excellent question and I think about that when I am soldering with heat sharing tubing. What I do is make sure I have at least 2 to 3 inches of insulated wire, and when soldering, that heat shrink is as far away from the soldering position as possible. I have done it with shorter insulted areas, but at times you don't need the heat shrink as long as there is insulation all the way to the soldered rigid connection. I really only use heat sharing when I put two cables together, rather than soldering to a rigid set of connections.

Sorry, but this was a one- off project for a neighbor. I believe they are available for purchase from Mr Van Embricqs. His website is mentioned in this video's description. I recall he had a black version. Good luck.

Hello George, I use Fusion 360 for creating the toolpath G-code from the HolzMechanik dxf file. I then use Mach3 control software for the operation on the CNC. I am not familiar with Easel. The problem you describe sounds like an inconsistency between the diameter of the router bit specified for the g-code making, and the actual router bit used for the cutting. Good luck.

@@richardevans6891 Thank you very much for your timely reply. The dxf files says to use a 2mm bit which I am using; however, Christopher also sent me a link on a video for cutter compensation. I am researching this now and hope that gets me further down the road. George

@@richardevans6891 Could I email you outside of YT? I would ask about getting your Gcode for either the numerals or numbers as I am not able to get the radii to be equal or wide enough for structural integrity. Easel won't support G42 code (for cutter compensation) and I want to explore other options. thanks

Sorry but this was an one-off build for a neighbor. Not available for sale here. You may find it on van Embricqs website mentioned in the description of this video.

What's is your email?

What is your email?

All solid poplar. Thanks for watching.

You are exactly correct. The size of the spacers must be adjusted for the slats toward the center. How did your project turn out?

Thanks for the tip.

Hello, I use Fusion 360 for CAD and CAM. Fusion CAM has a tool path strategy called "engraving" which is usually used for lettering. The letter shape is represented by an vector that outlines the letter shape. The engraving strategy automatically raises and lowers the v-bit in such a way as to cause the edges of the v-bit to touch both sides of the letter outline. To do this for wider points of the letter the bit goes deeper; for narrower parts of the letter outline the bit cuts shallower. Thus no specific depth (other than a maximum depth) is specified. I am not familiar with Easel or Carveco. Look to see if they provide an "engraving" strategy. Thanks for watching.

Grandpa???

Hello Charles, The CNC makes near perfectly shaped parts, but I used 220 sand paper to remove any fuzz left by the CNC. The holding tabs were removed with a sharp chisel followed by some sanding. Thanks for watching.

The first and last one is tricky due to the extra hinge point.

Actually I think I only need the length of the shortest slat and how far from the top of the slat does the slot end. I'm really enjoying this. There's no need for plans etc. You've provided hints and answered comments. I think with this info it should be buildable. Or at least have a stab at it and then fine tune it. The position of the rod is difficult if it's not right the table won't be flat. I've taken some screen shots from your video and trying to measure off that. But if you could provide the length of the shortest slat and the distance from the top to where the slot ends I should be able to calculate it and then confirm it with the measurements from the video stills. Thanks Richard

@@peterjordan5947 Hello Peter, In my desk implementation, shortest slat #15 = slat#16 = 24.000" long. The slot in those slats start .607" from top of slat (measured from the center of 3/8" arc at slot end). The slot stops 7.910" from the bottom of slat (again measured from the 3/8" arc center). This is all, of course, for my particular desk. I imagine there are many alternate formulations that will work. Thanks for watching and good luck.

​@@richardevans6891Thank you so much for taking the time to reply. I'm moving house next weekend but after I'm settled in I'm going to give this a try. I really appreciate how informative your video is and how you take to time to reply to all the comments. I'll let you know how I get on.

I had one more question but you've been so helpful I feel bad asking, so please don't feel you have to answer. But if you're feeling generous, what length did you use for the two short support pieces at the top of slats 1 & 30

Hello Jim, my spacing was .050". This was achieved with about 1" x 1" wood spacers of this thickness glued to the slats. See at 14:50 in video.

Hello, My 30 slats were all 1.300" wide, and .943" thick. The spacer between the slats was .050" thick. Thanks for watching.

Desk is easily stable enough to use a lap top, or use as a writing desk. Have not tested the weight capacity. Thanks for watching.

​@@richardevans6891 All of the weight of both desk and whatever is on it is supported by the two hinges on the blocks that attach to the wall, and of course the screws that attach those hinges. So you can probably work it backwards if you're building one. Start with how much weight you want it to be able to hold, then figure out how to get hinges, hinge fasteners and attachment blocks that can hold that much. Another point of concern might be the steel rod. It supports all of the vertical slats except the two outside ones, so if you put a lot of weight on the center of the desk, especially towards the back, it might begin to bow. It seems to me that would take a lot of weight, though, especially since to bow the rod would also have to press the outer slats inwards, and with the spacers there isn't much room for things to flex inwards. My guess is that the rod bowing wouldn't be a problem unless you were trying to put hundreds of pounds on it.

Hello Jim, My CNC tool path specified a width of .375". Then to provide clearance, I hand sanded the slot using sand paper stuck on a thin scrap of wood just enough to allow a smooth sliding fit with a test piece of rod. There was not a lot of sanding required. Thanks for watching.

Richard, Jim here again. I have another question. Was there any deflection in the center of your .375" rod based on the weight of the desk when placed in the open position? If so, how did you compensate so the desk became 90 degrees perpendicular to the wall? Were the slot locations adjusted accordingly? I use SolidWorks as my modeling package and can make all the necessary compensations as required. I look forward to hearing from you. Thanks.

Hello Jim, I made no compensation for potential deflection of the rod. In the actual operation of the desk there did not seem to be any apparent deflection. Good luck.

Thanks for watching. Good luck.

Hello. The lengths of the slots in each slat #2 thru #15 in inches for my desk are: 1.660, 3.310, 4.945, 6.474, 8.047, 9.465, 10.763, 10.927, 12.816, 13.753, 14.496, 15.020, 15.371, and 15.481. Slat #1 is special; its "slot" is simply a circular hole with diameter of .375. The lengths listed above are the distances between the centers of the .375" diameter arcs at the end of each slot. Slat numbers 16 thru 30 are of course the mirror image. The width of the slots is .375" to accommodate the steel rod. Good luck.

Oh my God. I've been doing the maths for these slot lengths by hand using trigonometry. This saves so much time.

Hello Vedran. The horizontal measurement of every step is 1.35". The vertical measurements of each step (in inches) starting from the center are: .087, .282, .426, .574, .726, .885, 1.052, 1.229, 1.419, 1.627, 1.856, 2.115, 2.413, 2.809, and 4.000. The total width of the top is 40.45". The total height of the top is 21.50". Good luck. Thanks for watching.

​@richardevans6891 thank you I'm gonna try to change all of that in metric it's way easier 😀

@@vedranincanada Hello ! I am trying to do the same, did you success to change it into metric? :)

@@richardevans6891 You give 15 measurements here for the vertical measurements for the steps starting from the center. Does this mean we subtract .087" from that initial 21.5" depth of the desk for the center slat to attach to?

Sorry, I cannot made plans available. Basic tools should be fine, though I think a router table of some sort would be almost essential for making the slots. Thanks for watching and good luck.

Hello Elbrahim, The steel rod was purchased at Ace Hardware, a standard item. It is 3/8" in diameter. The rod was cut to length and threads were added on each end with a thread cutter die. My desk top has a length of 40.45" and a maximum depth of 21.50"; thickness is about 1". Each of the slats have a cross section of 1.30" wide x about 1" thick. Good luck and thanks for watching.

@@richardevans6891 thank you so much. do you think this is doable with 3/4 inch thick wood? I want to do a test run with plywood before I ruin good wood. Thanks.

@@eibrahim It may be difficult to use 3/4" plywood because a 3/8"+ slot must be cut in each slat. Give it a try on a couple test slats. Maybe as an alternative some less-expensive construction lumber could be planed down to 1" for a test project. That is essentially what I did using poplar wood for a test project.

I am building it now. How do I know how to size each slot in each piece? I know they have to be different but how accurate do I have to be?

Are you able to share your fusion design? I don’t mind paying for it