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The Yorkshire Fab Shop
Добавлен 13 янв 2022
Elliott Progress 2G / 2GS Oil Leak Repair. Should have been done at the Factory!
A quick little modification to an otherwise perfect drill. The Elliott’s suffer from leakage at the selector shaft due to wear, o-ring deteriorating and misuse. We look to rectify this small design flaw with a second seal that should prevent this drill from leaking for many years to come. A simple repair that should have been done at the factory!
Просмотров: 453
Видео
Drill table troubles… Repairing the table and machining an insert.
Просмотров 11 тыс.8 месяцев назад
A new drill in the workshop requires some tlc to sort some mistakes from a previous life. In this video we need to machine out the damage so we can repair the table. With the new hole, the next job will be to manufacture an insert to fit snugly so the hole will be covered when not needed, and accessible if a job requires it. Cast iron isn’t the easiest material to work with, especially as it be...
Silver soldering! How to join thin wall tube and fittings, repair patches and more!
Просмотров 8129 месяцев назад
In this video we look at an age old metal joining technique with some Silverflo 55. We join thick to thin steel components, and cover a hole with a small patch that we manufacture from scratch. We also talk about flux, how to mix, what to look for and generally how to join components.
THIN TIG! BMW e46 Front Subframe Strengthening Plates. Ready for track!
Просмотров 25510 месяцев назад
A quick job through the shop, bit of welding to upgrade a subframe to take the added stress of track driving. No prep to do thanks to a quick grit blast although it didn’t remove all the rust and contamination so a further clean would have been beneficial. MIG wouldn’t have been too upset but TIG isn’t as forgiving… Haven’t picked the torch up for a while and it probably shows, but everything i...
New Mill for the Workshop. Can it be brought back to life?
Просмотров 98010 месяцев назад
In this episode from the Yorkshire Fab Shop, we got a new machine for the workshop! It’s a mill from the 60’s which hasn’t had too much work but needs a bit of recommissioning to get it going again. It’s an interesting machine with some unique features not seen on many other machines. A turret based mill with a large capacity while keeping a small footprint. It needs some general tlc, but a sim...
Lathe Tailstock Machining! A good reaming needed? Restoration series episode 4
Просмотров 8 тыс.Год назад
Finally, some well deserved lathe tlc! Forming part of the restoration series (but may end up a separate series all together, let’s see how it goes…) I’ll be tackling some of the age related issues associated with this machine. In this video we are looking at the tailstock. It’s suffered from a difficult life involving carelessness and hamfistery resulting in an item that isn’t as good as it co...
How to Machine Spheres on the Manual Lathe! Complex Turning Techniques using algebra…
Просмотров 779Год назад
Maths isn’t one of my favourite subjects, but for this we need to go back many years to relive some algebraic formulas, the thing of nightmares! It’s all necessary to produce what is a very difficult shape on a manual lathe. Once we start to think like a cnc machine, we should be able to produce some complex shapes using simple coordinates. Will it be successful?
How to manufacture a new chuck backplate for the lathe! Basic guide for turning a new taper adaptor
Просмотров 11 тыс.Год назад
A new addition to the workshop lathe, in this video we look at machining a new backplate adaptor to take replace the old three jaw chuck for a shiny new one. By modifying and reusing the old spindle nose adaptor we are able to manufacture a new adaptor plate to mount the new three jaw to the lathe. Bit of turning, drilling and tapping. What more could you ask for?
Creating an Imperial Metric Thread on the Lathe??? Screw Cutting with a Difference!
Просмотров 3,8 тыс.Год назад
In this one we are peering into the world of threading and fasteners. We explore whether it’s possible to thread a metric bolt using an imperial lathe without the help of the magical 127 tooth change wheel. We also cover a bit of history around the world of bolts while talking about the pros and cons of this alternative method of metric bolt creation.
Simple guide to changing single phase motor direction with a switch!
Просмотров 8 тыс.Год назад
In this video we are looking at various methods to changing the direction of rotation in single phase motors when used on drills, mills, lathes etc. We explore the inner workings of a motor, how to wire and what’s required to change the direction of rotation. This includes a breakdown of switches and what makes them suitable and why others can’t be used. We also carry out an example where we wi...
What is it??? Easy material identification in the workshop! Spark test, amongst others…
Просмотров 890Год назад
In this episode we explore a couple of easy methods to identify materials in the home workshop. The main test is of course the spark test but we walk through a few other methods of identifying and determining what materials we’ve got along the way with some characteristics of certain ones. Simple and straightforward with some useful tips throughout. Get a brew and enjoy!
Mitutoyo magnetic stand repair, just required a top-up??
Просмотров 3,8 тыс.Год назад
Nice and simple repair in the shop today, a dti stand rescued from the scrap heap, a simple fix or something more sinister? We go onto discuss some of the subtle differences between stands and how they operate, plus which one I’m likely to use going forward. Some good quality gear from a world class manufacturer with a surprising outcome.
The ULTIMATE Beginners Guide to MIG Welding! How to MIG weld!
Просмотров 1,2 тыс.2 года назад
The ULTIMATE Beginners Guide to MIG Welding! How to MIG weld!
Tec Arc Compact Mig 251 Welder Repair! Restoration Series Ep3
Просмотров 3,8 тыс.2 года назад
Tec Arc Compact Mig 251 Welder Repair! Restoration Series Ep3
Elliott Progress No2GS Pillar Drill Complete Overhaul - Restoration Series Ep2
Просмотров 5 тыс.2 года назад
Elliott Progress No2GS Pillar Drill Complete Overhaul - Restoration Series Ep2
Shearly not? Bench Shear Restoration!
Просмотров 2342 года назад
Shearly not? Bench Shear Restoration!
DIY MIG Welding Carriage from Scrap
Просмотров 1,3 тыс.2 года назад
DIY MIG Welding Carriage from Scrap
your video is gold! Greetings from Brazil
it always amuses me to ponder.. given the universe is vast and there is certanly technologicly advanced aliean life somwhere... do they also have screws? what do the heads look like? i wonder if they would have gravitated to the exact same solutions as we have, or somthing totally different...
A very insightful comment! Maybe they have advanced technologies that are void of screws?? Hopefully something different, I’d be disappointed if it were similar to ours…
I need to dothat on my Covmac lathe!! I have the reamer, but used it by hand, I though about doing it this way, but bottled it! I need a tin of Sherwoods! Phil
Hi Phil, thank you for leaving a comment! Try to keep the reamer stick out length as short as possible otherwise it will go wherever it wants. Also, clocking it in was difficult so don’t rush and go steady. Otherwise you could bore with a carbide boring bar which will give good results. Any decent cutting compound will do, trefolex is another personal favourite but anything that clings on given its high cutting pressure. Otherwise good luck!!
Excellent work! I subscribed!! Love the milling machine, versatility in a small footprint, I have a Harrison H mill with V head, but no quill and won't nod like that one!! Phil, East Yorkshire (Pudsey Born!!) RUclips, Phil Whitley, My week this week
Thanks for the subscription! Yes it’s a versatile machine but it won’t be anywhere near as rigid as your Harrison. I do t think they are even as solid as a mk1 bridgeport, but they’re a big improvement over the hobby mills. I quite fancied a Harrison due to their size but never came across one cheap enough… I’ll have a look 👍
Interesti g video but the sound is quite muffled & frustrating
Sorry to hear the sound wasn’t as good as you would expect. Unfortunately my equipment isn’t particularly complex but I am looking to upgrade for future videos so thank you for the feedback ❤️
Brilliant video and a lovely restoration. I have a 2G which is very original and generally in good condition but does leak oil from the usual places. I bear with it as, while it's messy, I have been put off dismantling and disabling the machine to change the seals. Also as you say, the oil leak is a good reminder that there it oil to leak, and it keeps things from rusting etc. You even get a bit of cutting lube sometimes whether you want it or not! Armed with even better understanding of the assembly from this video than I had before, I might consider changing the seals in the future. Thank you for this and for listing the parts you used, Will watch again I'm sure!
Really glad to hear it was useful to you! Thank you for leaving a comment. The seals are really easy to do and doesn’t require any strip down of the gearbox. All you need to do is withdraw the quill and they can be accessed the same way as detailed in this video. You should also see my latest posting which addresses the common leak point from the speed change handle. And yes, that oil serves a dual purpose when there is a slight leak!! Just remember to top it up now and again! Although I fear many run without a drop for many years…
@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 I did see the second video about the gear change o ring. A good idea to doulbe it up. My lathe is an ancient toy, it would be a lep of faith to try the same but I might just do it. Would be good to get it oil tight again. 👍
Nice little video. Trying to find how to disassemble a Union PD8, there’s no love for them apparently, but they seem more complicated than Meddings or Progress drills. Looks lovely, and these machines are well made for sure. Missus asked why not get a Clarke one, she just doesn’t understand. Oil leaks on old equipment are mandatory, doesn’t matter how well you seal them. And it’s so much more quiet, that’s my goal on mine.
Thank you, appreciate the comment! I never could understand that, those unions are a good drill. Is that the two speed option with the spindle back gear? I’ve always fancied one just because they are great value. From photos of the drill they look like the case splits in two, but I wouldn’t like to suggest that’s how it’s done because I haven’t had my hands on one. Good luck with your refurb! And yes I 100% agree all old equipment should have a very minor oil leak. That way you know when it hasn’t got any left!! And it keeps the rust off… And yes, the modern stuff just doesn’t compare. And in many instances is more expensive!!
@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 It is indeed the two speed. The case is one piece, well two pieces cast together, and finished with filler. Had some WD40 in a thread for the lid, screwed in the screw, and hydrauliced the filler out underneath, it pushed back in. There’s an awkward hidden circlip, accessed from the top panel, where the belt is, it holds the dog clutch gear in place on the shaft.. Need a replacement motor, this one can’t be rewired, and I’m not going to start delving inside windings. 240v 3 phase for a VFD, saves messing with the belt.
@dieselhatz4247 ah fair enough, I hadn’t really looked too closely. The Elliott wasn’t exactly straightforward but it sounds a little more intuitive than the union! They are a nice little compact unit with a great range of speeds. Should serve you well for many years with a bit of a fettle! Keep your eye out for a single phase motor, often the shaft diameters are the same so it’s only a case of swapping it over. Obviously the vfd adds an even greater range of speed! I went down the phase converter route so I didn’t need multiple vfd’s.
Hi there. Nice mill. I have an old Elliot Universal with a swing out Bridgeport head - so I well understand the need to compromise. What's the nice old lathe there? Cheers
Thank you for the comment!! I was looking at the omnimill as a potential, plus either a Harrison or a Victoria but sometimes you’ve just got to get what you can when opportunity presents itself! Yes, universal heads are an acceptable compromise in a home workshop, but obviously they’ll never outperform a proper fixed head machine in terms of material removal and rigidity… I really wanted something with an iso 40 but it’s ok for now. The lathe is a woodhouse Mitchell 70 junior, a decent lump capable of nice work. It’s not in the best of order and would benefit from some tlc but it’s a nice machine to use. Just a happy accident both mill and lathe ended up from the same manufacturer!
Hi. Great video. I have one of these and the Tufnol gear is damaged. Is it possible to get a replacement one ? Thanks
Thanks you for the comment! The best option I found is eBay, however they are quite expensive and would recommend you keep your eye out for a cheap complete drill! Otherwise you may have to manufacture one but without a mill and a lathe this would be very difficult… good luck finding a replacement 👍
Good stuff, but I must complain a bit about your touchy feely fingers dancing around terminals connected to capacitors. A good way to get zapped. Always discharge them before servicing.
A great comment, thank you for pointing this out! I understand the dangers associated with capacitors but it’s always good to remind folk 👍
Good improvement, thanks for sharing
Thank you, hope you enjoyed 👍
Very nicely done !
you could make a nested of series drop in rings one smaller than the next so you can drill various size holes by just removing some of those
There’s always scope to change things with this in the future if need be! I don’t think I’ll ever need to use the hole but it’s always there if I do
Nice, careful work, and pretty too. Not being a fabricator I had to wait to see how you'd do it. Cool!
Thank you for leaving a comment, hope you enjoyed it! Not many options with this but it’s at least slightly better than it was…
Well done.
Nice job! Gave me an idea on sealing some bolts that hold my headstock to the bed on my LeBlond lathes. Thanks for sharing!
LeBlond lathes plural, as in you’ve got multiple? Fair play if so! I remember seeing a few for sale when I was looking for a lathe. Could never consider one due to their immense size and weight! Would be ideal for stoping a small country floating away if needed! Could you use a dowty seal under the bolt head? You wouldn’t need a nice round hole in that case. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment 👍
@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 Yes sir, I have three of them. LOL, they are kinda heavy I suppose. I've never heard of a dowty seal. I will check it out. I was thinking about cutting a groove just under the head of the bolt to accept an o-ring. Do you think that would work? You're welcome for the view and comment!!!
Yes, definitely check out dowty seals, I think they will do exactly what you need them to do. Designed for hydraulic fittings but they come in various sizes. Do a great job but you need fairly flat surfaces on the underside of the bolt head and the area of the casing it bolts to.
Thanks for the recommendation@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 I see McMaster-Carr has them. You are correct, just what I need! I will order some shortly. Thanks again!!!
The “damage” in the table was called apprentice marks when I was young 😊
Yes, I know it as the same. This was far from apprentice marks though, those are usually mistakes but this was certainly deliberate! All sorted now though!
Great idea!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Why, why why do so many RUclips content creators feel the need to have their hands in the shot for no other reason than to make unnecessary gestures? Use your hands for demonstrating, or for a meaningful purpose. It should be natural, and not forced. But right out the gate, the first shot is a coffee cup, and a pair of hands making gestures. I can think of ONE or maybe two RUclipsrs who can pull off this goofy conceit, and still make it interesting and funny. A talking head shot, or some B roll of the subject matter is a better option for everyone else.
Thank you for the feedback. We’ve all got to find our feet so to speak, and some constructive criticism goes a long way. I’ll take that on board and see if I can make the opening scenes a little more interesting. It’s difficult when there’s a lot more to talk about than there is to actually show, and I can certainly talk! You should see how long some of the intros were before most of it was binned for fear of folk dropping to sleep… Also don’t forget for many creating content is simply a hobby, something to do in between work, life and the rest of it. The vast majority aren’t looking to be the next highly polished 1m sub channel although it would certainly be nice if it happened! But seriously, thanks for the feedback, I appreciate the time you’ve taken to leave a comment 👍
Its to try and piggy back off this old tony
@@natejones1235doubt it. The guy basically just admitted to doing this as a hobby, not a career, and is probably shy of his face. Stop the hate?
@natejones1235 if he was piggy backing off this old Tony, he'd be telling dad jokes. He doesn't do that at all, and doesn't focus his camera nearly the same, or use animations. This is a man doing stuff in his garage and filming it, not nearly the same angle.
It’s the internet so to be expected. There aren’t many ways to present while remaining anonymous and I like that I’ve got the option to do so with this delivery style. Yes it’s very similar to others but no matter what delivery style, with the amount of content creators about it’s very difficult not to be doing what’s been done by others. Nice to see you’ve noticed it’s not meant to be a direct copy of TOT, although yes I have been inspired by his channel. I think my subject topics are different enough to not be a copy but he’s done so much it’s hard not to. There is an old saying that the imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. Maybe we’ll do a colab in the future?
You'll be better off making the 127 tooth metric conversion gear set on the milling machine. It isn't a big problem even if you just grind a HSS single point fly cutter with the correct gear tooth profile.
Totally agree with you, as that is the plan. However this is a demonstration that (in an emergency situation) it is possible to generate something close enough to get you by. With gear alterations it is possible to get even closer, but a 127 tooth gear is the only way to get it right. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
I like what you did. The little beauty marks could probably be TIG welded or brazed, but it's a tool, so why bother?
Agreed, I don’t need to do anything more with it as it’ll be getting used as it should. Maybe if it was going on the mantlepiece it would be a different matter!
I miss this old tony.
Dont most drill tables have a hole in the middle ? And if not, why ?
Very few metal working drills have holes in the tables because the workpieces are usually held in a vice, so there’s no need to drill below the surface of the table. That’s my take on it anyway!
@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 understood, no idea why that slipped my mind. Maybe because mine has a hole and I use it for the occasional wood work.
That isn’t necessarily right, just my best guess! My Elliott 2gs has a hole in the centre of the table, but it doesn’t have tee slots like the meddings…
While you had the insert on the lathe you could have made some shallow cuts at regular intervals from the centre to provide a simple visual guide when lining up the work piece. Just a thought. Good work 👍
Thanks for the comment! Never crossed my mind to be honest, I was looking for a clean look but I like the concept, a bit like a bulls eye! Problem is although it’s central(ish) to the table it might not be central to the quill… I haven’t checked yet, still getting the drill back up and running!
Why don't you copy this old tony
A valid point, but impossible not to have a similar delivery style to another creator in this very congested space. I tried presenting with my feet instead but you wouldn’t believe how difficult it is to weld like that!!
Subscribed..
Great! Lots in the pipeline so hopefully you stick around! 👍
I think the way you did it is exactly what I would have done. Those tiny holes further out, I might fill them by brazing, but even body filler or something would be good enough, since those areas shouldn't be seeing the broad side of a bit anyway
Thank you for the comment! Yes I’ve got a few options including filling with various media, but the best (suggested in the comments) using a countersunk fastener in the largest remaining hole to act as an anti rotation and retaining device. I’m going to leave it for now and if it bugs me I’ll do something about it. But no, you’re quite right that table shouldn’t ever see another drill any time soon! Hope you enjoyed 👍
@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 Ooh! I didn't even consider that, but it sounds genius! And I did enjoy the video, thank you for sharing your time with us!
Nice work. Do you think the insert would spin and break bits if the bits catch the insert? Maybe a pin or grub screw on the edge would keep it from spinning. If there’s room.
Yes, I suppose it could but I’m not planning on having a drill come into contact with the table whilst it’s in my possession… a great suggestion by someone in the comments was to use the remaining hole alongside a countersunk fastener to retain the insert and prevent rotation. I’ll see how it goes, there will be a vice mounted almost permanently so the insert might not see the light of day again! Thanks for leaving a comment 👍
Great save on someones bodge, most pivoting drill presses have a clearence hole for through drilling, lot easier now to add, and chip catcher. Table looks a lot better now 👍. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for leaving a comment! Since posting, and thinking about people’s comments, I’ve thought about putting a bag beneath the table so I can just pop the insert out and sweep all the swarf in! These Meddings definitely didn’t have a hole, but there’s some extra functionality I can now explore thanks to some comments. Thanks again for watching, hope you enjoyed 👍
Fantastic idea and excellent repair! This video absolutely earned my subscription!
Thank you for the positive feedback, and leaving a comment! Great to have you on board, thank you for stopping by! 👍
Good video , very informative 👍🏻
Thank you, glad to hear you found it useful!
Nice work. Certainly is alot stronger now. Thanks for sharing 👍.
Just a quick job for a friend, not 100% sure how well engineered the strengthening plates are but apparently the race cars of the day did this so it must work?? Thanks for leaving a comment and I appreciate the feedback! 👍
Nice job , it’s horrible to see drill tables abused in this way. I don’t think there’s ever a legitimate excuse for drilling into a table , you wouldn’t accept losing a finger as part and parcel of the job so why accept the holes in the table ??? Sorry about the rant just it’s a pet hate of mine. I think there remaining small holes could be fixed by means of drilling + reaming them to the next size up e.g. 6mm ? And then putting in a little bit of steel stock and final dressing in position for perfect finish. If they were a little loose obviously locktite could be used. Great video , iv watched a few of yours now 👍🏻
Thank you for taking time to leave a comment! Yes it’s an annoyance of mine too, short of lack of care or a moment of insanity there isn’t really an excuse for drilling into tables… it takes two mins to prop a workpiece on parallels or a suitable lump of timber. I’ve had a few great suggestions for dealing with the remaining damage but I’m pretty happy with the condition now so I don’t feel compelled to do any more. Not with a load of other higher priority tasks to do in the meantime. Thanks for sticking with the channel, I hope you continue to enjoy my content! 👍
Nice repair job. You really fixed it up. Thanks for sharing. Have a great day. Just subscribed to your channel.
Thank you for taking time to leave a comment, I appreciate the feedback. Nice to know I’ve got another on board! Stay tuned for more 👍
Well done.
Thank you for leaving a comment! 👍
If the other bits continue to bother you, you could clean them and fill with brass or silver solder and stone flat. But I would just leave it as is now. The top hat plug looks great
Thanks for the suggestions, I filled a table last year with TIG and nickel filler which worked well but if the hole wasn’t absolutely clean it made a bit of a mess, I presume soldering would be the same… someone else suggested filling with epoxy metal which would also be fine but I’ve drawn the same conclusion as you, it’ll be fine as is! Thanks for taking time to leave a comment 👍
Interesting concept to make the center look better. Amazing to see that most anyone that has a bench top or floor model drill press also has little holes in the table area. As much as we try, we do make mistakes and accidently drill into the table. But if you never use such tools, you never make such mistake holes... Thumbs Up!
There aren’t too many options really which something like this. Another way to freshen it up would be to install 10mm plate onto the table, weld around the periphery (maybe a couple of areas in the middle too) and machine flat but that is overkill for a drill… otherwise it’s a matter of fitting some scrap into the hole and welding around it. Short of recasting a new table anything is going to be obvious… Having been in industry a number of years, I would blame carelessness over anything. And because most equipment comes from industry, it’s been subject to that carelessness. But yes a momentary lapse of focus can result in mistake and as you say, if you don’t do anything you’ll never make a mistake!! My Sunday best drill has a flawless table, so I hope to keep it in that same condition. Thanks for your feedback and leaving a comment 👍
The repair looks like it could have been done at the factory. I have a larger hole made by the factory in my Powermatic drill press table. This machine is designed for wood workers, so often large holes may be drilled in wood on the table. The factory had a plastic plug. I replaced with a plug made from walnut. I have a lot more pieces of wood in my shop than steel or aluminium. Cheers from eastern PA, USA. Presently snowing.
Thank you for the feedback! Interesting point about woodworking, I hadn’t considered that to be a possibility as I am solely metalworking. I can see an advantage to having a large diameter hole in a table as it’s not convenient to mount most woodworking items in an engineering vice! Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
Not very original presentation style. This old Tony does it better.
Yes you’re absolutely right. Not too many ways of being original in a very crowded space unfortunately… and I’d be pretty upset if I were doing a better job than TOT considering my inexperience and time constraints! Just hoping I can produce something that one or two enjoy and learn from 👍
Well enjoyed the video 👍
Huge appreciation from a fellow yorkie! Thank you for the feedback and leaving a comment! 👍
Tap the remaining hole and put a bolt in. A bit of filing to remove the head.
What a great idea! A countersunk bolt would not only make use of that hole but would also retain the insert! I like your thinking 👍 part 2 maybe??
Excellent result. Looks very good and multifunctional too. Well done. Very pleased to have discovered your channel. 👏👏👍😀
Thank you for the support and feedback! I appreciate the time taken to leave a comment. There’s plenty more in the pipeline so be sure to stick around 👍
@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 Definitely going to stick around and look at your previous content. However, I can’t find episode 1 of the Elliot Drill Press restoration? 🤔
@andrewdolinskiatcarpathian it’s a bit of confusion with the labelling, my fault but the restoration series was meant to be a series all on its own, so the Elliott featured in episode two, and various other bits of kit restored in other episodes. The mill and the lathe will feature in one too at some point, but I can’t be without them at the moment!
@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 Thank you. I’ll enjoy taking a look. Good luck with all your work. 👍😀
Sounds like This Old Tony's been spending time in the UK!
Haha! Yorkshire Tony! You aren’t the first to make that comment. I’d be lying if I said he hasn’t had any influence on the style of this content. I always liked the balance of rambling stories and clever engineering, but figured it was missing a friendly Yorkshire accent! It’s just difficult to limit the talking, I could do a three hour video and easily talk for four! Thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment 👍
Put a little color matched bondo in those other holes.
Thank you for the suggestion. That had crossed my mind, and I did consider doing just that but they don’t bother me enough to feel the need to do anything about them. I do have a little pot on the shelf if I change my mind!
Nice to see an old tool get some love and a better chance in retirement... RUclips suggested you and for once it didn't disappoint. Cheers from Canada.
Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment. I always wonder how folk find the channel so it’s great to hear you found me on a suggested video and decided to click. Yes it is, they always tend to be better quality than the modern day equivalents, but it’s far better than seeing them go to scrap. It’s something I do too much of really, getting an unloved machine and repairing but there’s no greater satisfaction! There will be more like it so stick around if you enjoyed 👍
Handsome repair. 👍
Thank you! Hope you enjoyed 👍
That's looks like a nice lathe why do you keep it such condition? Please clean Kit from down under
You are right, it is a nice machine and it does deserve looking after! It’s not an excuse but I was between projects so hadn’t had chance to clean from the last one. The ways are always covered to protect from rust and it’s tidied after every big job. A machinists job isn’t finished until you can eat dinner off the machine!
Glad I found your video. Nice job, thanks, helps a lot.
Thanks for the comment! I appreciate the feedback and there will be plenty more like this in the future 👍
What do you think to this repair, would you have done it a different way? Maybe weld in a plug, replace the table, or just leave?
maybe a similar repair for that one little hole
@jmpiv4 your not the only one that’s said that! A countersunk screw is the way to go I think to make use of the pre-drilled hole! Should keep the insert in place too
I think I would have done it the same way.
@4:06, You want compromise, how's this? Twenty years in the can I wanted manicott', but I compromised. I ate grilled cheese off the radiator instead. I wanted to fuck a woman, but I compromised. I jacked off into a tissue. You see where I'm goin'? Honestly, how heavy is that mill? My Schau 22 is a full metric tonne, and she is a sublime work of mechanical art... Made to be better than the famous bridgeport and as a direct competitor by the Swiss back in the day... A small machine really, but that just compounds the mass based rigidity... She has a 1horse motor, 3ph ofc, but a machine of that caliber was made to rely on a 1hp... I don`t know much about your machine, but i think that 1 horse is more than enough... 2 is likely to slip the belt whenever 1hp would not suffice, and with that round head ram, which seems no thicker than 4 inches, she likely suffers quite some deflection at such loads anyways, all the joints of the head notwithstanding... I would say that 2 is just too much in regards to efficiency... You likely will never really want to use the full 2 horse of that motor other than for drilling, and if you need 2 horse to drill, you should be using a boring bar or just stepping the drills better anyways... I know that that dude modded his import baby mill to 3hp, but that is really just silly in a way... If he gets that motor to stall, that shit is gonna do some nasty damage, likely to the mill itself if the tool is rigid enough... To stall a 3hp takes a lot, and that lot is not enough to burn it out, but that lot is too much for his little mill... Yours likely won`t ever suffer any real damage from the 2hp motor as she is an older and properly skookum machine, but she will likely deflect like mad if you approach the full motor load... That will do some nasty damage to your cutters, especially carbide endmills, so don`t overdo it... 2horse is great from a longevity point of view, as that motor could run that mill - properly operated - for ages without much strain, so it`s a good idea, but don`t let it tempt you into stupid ideas when using the machine... Speaking of stock, i see that you too are a man of culture who snags scrap stock from scrapyards... I prefer industrial fasteners of 12.9 grade... You can find whole lots of never used fasteners in broad range of sizes on scrapyards... They often end up there either when a factory clears out the old stock from dropped contracts or when some shop closes and all the stock ends up trashed... Sure, there is lots of great stock to be found in other forms, but seeing a box of 12.9 black oxide bolts makes me hard... They are a bit disgusting to turn on small machines, but with a larger machine, they turn like butter and you have a high-tensile rod that is not some supreme toolsteel that you don`t want to waste, or some specialist alloy, but just a high-grade good stock that will withstand a hell-of-a-lot of load and will not fail anytime soon... They also grind and polish/lap amazingly nicely... Also, prepare a clean room, extract that quill, take out the spindle, do it properly, no hammers or presses, just heat and cooling with liquid gasses(just get a shock oil from the mechanics store, it cools shit down to -30 celsius) and do the grease purge, get some proper spindle grease and renew the grease... If the machine is from 60`s and hasn`t had much use, she could still be having the OEM grease from day1... 60 year old grease is better than no grease, but it`s chemistry is compromised, and so is it`s lubricity... Running it will lead to wearing of the bearings in record times... I know it`s a bitch to do it properly, but you seem like a machine lover, so go watch robin renz, do what he does, and you will do one of the best things for your mill that you can, other than regularly servicing her and maintaining the surfaces as clean as possible and well lubed... It`s why i am not using my Schau 22, she is new-old-stock... Been sitting since 70`s in a swiss school in a store room as a backup... I got her for pennies as an un-inspected machine, and while she is in perfect condition, i know that that grease is twice as old as I am, and it`s service life since application is no more than 5 years of sitting or 2 years of industrial style work... Those bearings are not just some random bits of metal, they need as good a lubricant as they can get, and as fresh as possible... 60 year old or even 20 year old grease is not an option if you want her to keep running for long without a bearing change which will cost you much more than just hours of work and some costly grease... All the best! Steuss
OMG where’s the laughing emoji 😂 that lot tickled me. Yes you’re right, not really much of a compromise, and just to rub salt in the wound since that video I’ve now got more head height so I could have a bigger machine. It weighs about 800kg, so it’s not small but due to the head arrangement it’s not the most rigid (which it showed in the drill table machining), but it’s far more versatile than others of similar size.l so ideal for a one size fits all machine. It should have a 1 horse motor, and would have had a three phase from the factory, but don’t neglect the fact I’m running a phase converter which limits three phase motors to 2/3rds power. So although it’s a 2 horse, it’s only ever going to be doing 1.3 horse flat out which shouldn’t be too much bother. Oh the shortcomings of three phase in the home workshop when only single phase is available… Yes, 12.9 is a great material to have at hand, I’ve made various punching / chiseling / peening tooling out of cap head screws. But yes it can be difficult to machine, especially with high speed steel and tool steel. I grab what I can because it’s always the piece you leave behind that you need, so I don’t leave anything! The issue being stock takes up space…
@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 Oh yeah, sorry, i`m lucky enough to have 3phase connection in my house, not industrial grade, but 30 amps does me well enough, so i tend to forget the auxiliary losses of converters... I also couldn`t help the sopranos pun, you gave me an opening shot, im the real come from behind kinda guy, you know... But that is a nice little machine, 800kg is not a wee amount of mass for a small machine... Tho, that head ram is still a major source of rigidity loss... A brilliant design for sure, most versatile, but with a trade-off in return... Regarding the stock - i fully agree... If i ever saw a piece and left it, thinking i would not have use for it, the next project was the time when i could have put it to perfect use... I literally have over a metric tonne of steel in my stockroom by now... some cast iron, some alu, some bronze, brass and copper, but steel i could sell at this point as a small supplier, however, i always seem to be lacking the right sized piece when i need any... Funny that, innit... But i was not kidding about the grease in the spindle... Sort that shit out asap... I`m glad that you have more room now, that always helps, in more ways than one, but that machine needs new lubricant or her career as a varsity athlete will grind to a halt... Kind regards!
Yep, it’s funny how no matter how many different pieces of stock you’ve got lying about there’s never one that’s just the right size… I recon I’m not far behind in terms of stock amount, brass, phosphor bronze, aluminium, various grades of stainless and steel, little bit of titanium just because so I’m well catered for! I have given the whole machine a good greasing, but I’m not convinced of the state of the epicyclic gear set. The heads are known to be very noisy, so I’m not overly concerned but I know it has been apart once before because the previous owner told me he’d taken it apart to get it in his shed. Why he did that I’ll never know, the whole ram assembly comes off the machine column easily… anyway he couldn’t put it back together so had it built by a “mate”… I’ll be stripping it down and giving it a full inspection at some point. As you say, these old girls need a good dose of love from time to time!
@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 Oh, im a sour pickle - with jealousy - just now, I want some titanium, just for kicks if nothing else... It`s a bitch to find just randomly, and it`s costly af to buy... I`ll have to visit my gypsy friends and see if they, through their mysterious ways - known only to them and their brothers - have acquired some of the good stuff that they are willing to sell... The scrapyards don`t see much titanium in any case... Speaking of machines, i tend to like running into machines and cars that nobody really fiddled with beforehand... Too many times i have seen people lose track of componentry and fit stuff improperly - from magically ending up with spare fasteners to misplacing shim springs and similar... Not to even speak of potential terror of the shop where the machine was assembled, which could have had loads of abrasive junk around, just begging to contaminate the bores and what not upon assembly... And then there is the potential for sloppy lubricant use and misuse of wrong lubricants just due to lazy convenience of using whatever was at hand... Having worked as an apprentice mechatronics tech, i have seen my fair share of cars that the owner ``worked on and fixed`` that were such bodge-jobs that it still gives me the shivers... I kinda treat every machine as if i just pulled her out of a dumpster - nothing less than a full inspection and teardown followed by full service before being put to first use... The epi.gbox is likely akin to pull-gear configuration, so no wonder it`s somewhat loud... I guess that some graphite axle grease would do well in there, both as a lubricant and as a sound dampener of sorts... The bitch is that such racket can oft conceal some other potential noise indicative of wear, but generally the machine sounds healthy overall... Given your geo-position, yeah, i would slather the whole machine with grease too, it`s the most stable form of rust protection and one easily cleaned off... Hell, i use grease on my machines on surfaces that shed oil easily - during their sitting periods, and my shop is both warm and dry(relatively speaking)... It is a pleasure seeing someone who loves the machines they have and treats them right... They really are masterpieces of art in iron, and should be treated as such, not as some modern junk that is made to be run into the ground and bought anew in a few years... Warmest regards!