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Hi Ashley, thanks for interest in my channel. Unfortunately I can't promise that I could do a press for you. I had a short look at web and found device from company smallbatchtools.com/eyewear-manufacturing/bridge pumper. In that press there are two core parts, upper and lower mold to make the shape for the bridge. When DIY, you could sand or file those parts from hardwood, oak/ash/walnut. Make the molds a little bit bigger so that you can drill in suitable position aligning pins, long screws. Then it is much easier to press the molds together into correct position. For pressing you can use screw clamp. Plastic frames are thermoplastic usually, acetate. By blowing hot air you can soften the plastic and then press into correct shape. I once made tests with this kind of mold for thin laminated veneers. Just recently I made temple adjustments for epoxy casted temples by hot air. With hot air you have to be quick before plastic cools down again, so practice first with some waste parts. If you would make similar to the mentioned bridge press I would use a drill press stand as a starting point, they cost some 30$. I hope I understood your problem at least a little bit correctly.

Hi, thanks for watching. Unhappy? Would you please tell the reason. I appreciate all feedback, just to make it better or correct errors.

thanks for the comment and interest in the video. You probably meant 60 bar pressure when you said the calculation was incorrect. That value is calculated per the whole cross-sectional area of the bit, and thus poorly expressed, although correctly. From that number, you can perhaps deduce with what force the drill should be pressed towards the workpiece. The vertical force measurement is correct, I'm sure. When the cutting force is directed at the tip of the blade and the cutting edges, the question is how much force is needed at the cutting edge. After a quick internet search, structural steel ASTM A36, yield strength is 250 MPa and ultimate tensile strength 550 MPa (1MPa=10bar). From this we can conversely calculate, (assuming that in my drilling too the chips came off at a pressure of 550 MPA) that the width of the cutting surface is 0.15 mm with a 15 mm diameter bit and total downward force of 1200 N. I further assume that the force is directed to the extreme edge of the bit, because otherwise sharpening would hardly matter. So the actual cutting pressure may be much higher than 550 Mpa. It must be quite difficult to determine how the force is distributed near the edge of the bit. And I can't measure how wide or sharp the edge of the blade is either. Maybe I'll find out some way to numerically measure how sharp a drill bit is. My purpose was to show that the hobbyist must understand the most important requirements for tools, a sharp bit and the right amount of force needed for drilling. Numerical values, in my opinion, are more valuable than expressions like sharp or dull. All in all, I'm happy to learn by myself or with the advice of others how to drill that big hole. Learning the hard way by burning or breaking blades is frustrating and will bring your project to a halt. Thanks for the video link. ​

I sugest you to watch the whole video first and study some physics and electromagnetism.

I did and I understand the point you are making. My point is that one never messes around with M/W radiation. I also noticed the initial screen shot of a large piece of wood in an open M/W oven, has been changed. My point is that never alter an item like a M/W oven. It is dangerous. @@bladeoflucatiel

good question, might be difficult. I just went around to a few optical shops, then an understanding optician agreed to support my hobby by selling lenses. If you would try to make your own frame design, from experience I suggest to start with sun glasses, those ones with wide lenses you cab buy cheap and take lenses from them. I have also have taken lenses from my old worn eyeglasses and designed new frames to those. Last summer I found a flea market where I bought a bunch of old glasses, 50 cent each. Standard reading strength 0 ... +3 I could find a few without scratches. They get sterilized during processing. Anyway this kind hobby doesn't require lot of space or expensive tools, but allows to practice crafting skills and create own designs. good luck in new hobby!

Hi John, How do you mean NO, I would appreciate all improvement suggestions

I agree!

Thank you for the encouraging comment. In each video I try to introduce a new idea or a technique that was helpful to me and maybe helps someone in his projects. In this video the air sausage was a test whether bicycle tire pressure is enough to press the veneers firmly together. This sausage creates an uniform pressure which helps to compensate variations of the veneer thickness. Secondly the lens is held in in place only by the bending tension created by the laminated ring. When laminated with epoxy the ring is very rigid against bending. How rigid it is, I have a diy device to measure it. I have to think about measuring arrangement. Anyway, thanks for following.

Thank you for the hearthwarming comment. This device is nice small size and is here to stay.

Thanks for support, I try to develop more.

Thanks, and thanks for the tip. I'll start thinking a compact small drum sander, I need thin small veneers for my eyeglass projects.