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I've taken 1 mm off each end, more to go . As measured with a straight edge on the inboard counterweight measured to the outboard one next to it.

Step away from the pipe

You must really hate those dial indicators!

This is someones idea of a bad joke...

Hey man, I appreciate your documentation of the 6G7X family. I'm a enthusiast myself and own a NL Pajero thats being DOHC swapped and a 2nd gen 3000GT VR4. Can you get me your email, whatsapp or any platform we could discuss. TIA

От какой машины вы использовали блок двигателя?😮

Какой получился результат в такой конфигурации?

How does balancing work?

seems interesting but no idea what I'm looking at! thanks algorithm!

Can i change the spring in oil pump to get more psi flow oil?

What happens next???

Given that it's a 76mm stroke and 1300 ish RPM, how fast is it travelling when it lets go?

To follow on from this, the bobweights need to be concentric, as in all of the mass distributed evenly around the journal, otherwise the numbers come out all wrong.

was this a sohc block?

I've had a bit of a holdup on the balancing machine. When you mess around with the balance (bob) weights with different geometry, it balances with a different total weight.20g strips of plate don't add up the same as a stack of washers. The crank will balance dynamically at a different total weight. These weights are vectors and need to be added together as vectors and not using addition. The answer is to make new bobweights which are concentric as far as weight distribution goes. I'm using the same big end caps for centres but I've got some used wheel weights which are lead, I've melted them into rods, got some aluminium pipe cut for a mold. I need 2 sets, for 6G72 size and for 6G74 / 75 size. What???? So you think you can just drop off your crank at the local machine shop and they balance it for you by clicking their fingers together. They know what they're doing? It's always done wrong. It's not even close to being a 50% balance factor as used by 90 degree V8s, it's completely wrong. The vid on balancing from Steve Morris is worth watching, he even says the bobweights need to be concentric but doesn't know why. Because weight X plus weight X at 90 deg to each other add up to a lot less than weight 2X, If you're not quite sure what I'm doing here I've got a pretty much virgin 6G72 crank, I've made bobweights to simulate real pistons and conrods and I've got it spinning at about 1200b RPM without jumping around .If you pay to get the job done it'll be done not only wrongly but at maybe 500 RPM. 830g is pretty close but I'm getting closer. What balance factor is that?

The answer to the question is because the mass isn't distributed concentrically and so when you add the extra weights hanging off the ends you've got to add them as vectors.

Hello. I am a Japanese 22 years old. I have a GTO SR and I am thinking of porting a diamante 30m mivec. I am going to ask a GTO custom store to do it instead of doing it personally, but that custom store has never done that porting before and said it looks difficult, so I would like to know (1) how to do it, (2) parts needed, and (3) points to tweak for the store, please. Please reply if you feel up to it. Best regards!

I ran across your channel because I was curious to see if you can dual overhead cam a 6g75. I also see that you possibly work at a machine shop I watch this other channel called I do cars he just tears apart engine cores and throws crankshafts and camshafts and stuff like that in the scrap pile because he does not feel comfortable telling it however I believe you guys both could get something out of this if he sends you free crankshafts and you point him in the directions for engines and stuff like that it would be mutually beneficial for both of you plus your channel could grow

I want to know more about what your building whats your email? You are in the Wellington region?

That one with the j looks like the dayco one I sent you.

What sort of mileage would you expect before you'd need to replace the seal? I only replaced mine because i had to change out the pump due to my own fault. Otherwise the other one was fine on over 370,000 ks.

Mr Scoop I presume?

Thats a good idea are the oil pumps fragile on 6g? 4g63 are good.

Thats some view.

I've now added another 10g to get to 805g

Whats the lift on these after the rocker ratio?

I dont really know whats up but I can only assume it's important

Hey, awesome stuff, really following your content recently. I'm also balancing my engine, but my approach is to write a programme to calculate the balance factor. Lets see how close we get to eachother!

24 pieces welded on. 25 g each. Getting there.

I had it a bit faster before this vid. It started jumping around quite a lot. It still needs maybe an extra 5g on each bobweight, Maybe more but it's quite close. I've got 3 options here. Make my own crank balancer. Take my cranks to Brian and get him to do it for me. Then no 3. Do both. That's best. He told me a few years ago that 60 deg V6s don't balance like 90 deg V8s. I've got 3 frankenstein cranks, all different to balance plus a stockish one. That's a free add for Brian Howat engineering. The usual formula for balancing a V8 crank is 50% of the reciprocating weight and all of the rotating weight for each of the bobweights which replace the piston and conrod for balancing. Google will usually tell you that for a 60 deg V6 the formula is 30% or even less. It seems to be closer to zero, As in all of the rotating weight and zero of the reciprocating weight. The exact figure, I'll close in on it gradually through lots more testing.

Got to love that 666 rod weight.

That one might be a bit hard to understand. Going back to basics, if you've got an engine block with all the main bearings in it, You drop the crank into place. With lube on all the bearings, no caps fitted, the crank should turn freely. When they're bent , they have a tight spot every 180 degrees when you turn it. Same thing here except the centre main bearings are not fitted but 2 dial gauges instead on the journals indicating the runout.

What's the easiest way to add up to 3.2 g on these bobweights? Welding wire. I've cut off the right length, wrapped around the bolt between the nuts. They're now all 516g +/- 0.5 g. They're all still just a bit light. but it's time to upgrade the test gear to make a proper DIY balance machine.

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Thích kênh bạn đăng ký

10 years ago. My slowest ever with my most HP ever with the very same tyres on it today.

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The new drill, it's 900W and supposed to be about 800 rpm at no load, So when it's flat out, should be about idle speed .I removed the main bearings no 2 and 3. They're old ones in there, I used the ones most worn to make as loose as pos. Lubed with assembly lube so NO, the crank won't get damaged. I've got to mod the bobweights to make them adjustable.

That's why you don't throw away old parts. I've now used up 2 whole sets of factory rods to make bobweights for all 6 journals .Plus the bearings of course. Otherwise they'll flop around too much.

What tooling did you use ? I have a van Norman bar and was thinking of the same concept. I was going to weld a carbide in a 90° position to the end of the normal carbide holder. What did you end up with ?

ᎮᏒᎧᎷᎧᏕᎷ 😘

Watch the dial gauge really carefully. It was meant to be zeroed but it's sitting 0.02 mm below to start with. After opening and closing the valve the base circle drops to below the starting point.

Interesting to see how the dial gauge is used TBH.

From the figures, there's one and only one way to set up cams and that's using peak lift. If you try to get the opening and closing points the same, the peak lift will be different and wrong. That's with stock cams, If you're playing with aftermarket cams, there's a very good chance they were made all wrong so it's so much worse.

Is this normal?same as mine..do i need to change head gasket?

I can't quite remember the specs on the cams, it's buried somewhere . Normally you'll have 18 to 20 inches vac at 750 ish rpm hot idle. Now I've got about 10 inches vac at over 1000 rpm. I can't slow down the idle speed any more and there doesn't seem to be any leaks Maybe it's the cams? They're extra long duration, close to 300 deg but lowish lift. I only did that to see if it would idle with an AFM because many aftermarket cam suppliers say it won't work even at 280 deg.

If you want to re torque the head, ????? One bolt at a time. Clean the head of it. Use white paint, mark the front of it. Back it off. If it's still tight , take it out and lube it. Put it back in. Use a beam type torque wrench to torque back to original position and mark the number. Then retorque to spec and note the difference., Both the difference in torque as well as the difference in position. Then you're nearly a pro.

The cooling system always has lots of pressure in it once hot. I stripped the inside of one of the head bolts many years ago. Can't retorque that one nor get it out. I've tried a few things but don't want to over heat any of the valve springs It'll do until I get a new engine together for it. It's just a stock 91 TT with cast iron crank. Going back over 3 years I cooked it quite bad on the hill. I retorqued both heads, they all took an extra 90 deg, all except the stripped one. It hasn't overheated since but neither has it used a lot of fuel. It'll get to the beach and back without losing any coolant.

How did you convert it to crossover style pump ?

I've been watching these "mechanic" type videos from Pakistan. They're really clever, they can weld cranks back together when they break. Maybe I can build the journal up a bit with the tig and then grind back down? The bend isn't a problem, it'll clean up at the first undersize mains.