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My mill is a used 2016 model so I wouldn't be surprised if I have some updates needed but I cannot find where you enter the serial # in on the site.. Do you recall how you did it?

So you're cutting from the bottom up? Everyone I see cuts from the top down...what if its a big cant and you don't have enough clearance between your blade and throat?

Hey man, thank you so much for doing this, I learn a lot please keep on sharing your knowledge!!

Hey Chris, if you had that up off the ground, it would be easier to clean out the saw dust.

As a teacher ... I'd say you hit it perfectly... knowledge is always what works and what doesn't. Both the same value... learning from mistakes is smart. Thanks for your video

how is it working i watch your video tonight just have to put the arms tomorow any more tips

Thanks for the video brother. Very helpful

Where did you get log arch need 1 like it

thanks for posting Chris, very information videos about woodland saw mills. I've been using my Max 130 for the past couple of months (16 footer on trailer). lots of growing pains / learning!! FYI - I needed to adjust my band will alignment - and the follower side was fine. I actually adjusted it - with no success. I needed to adjust the drive side. My mill didn't have that "don't touch sticker", and tech support said it was ok to adjust just the drive side. Very time consuning going back and forth - and I found out I needed to change my drive belts. I was too timid to change the blade (and frugal) after hitting the log stop a couple of times ....which slows down cutting and puts pressure / wear on everything else. I also needed to tighten the drive belt tensioner (6 mm or 1/4 inch deflection). It's a pain to learn it - but hopefully future adjustments are more efficient.

Great presentation. Thx

Great tips

Thx for sharing ❤

Just subscribed to Chris after receiving our Woodland Mills sawmill. I really liked his instruction and style. Sorry to see he hasn't made any more videos. Does anyone know why he hasn't?

Hello

Thanks for posting, found your video looking to educate myself a bit on next steps for a couple or three slow leaks I’ve got on my ATV for plowing this winter. Haven’t found the cause yet but if it is a puncture I think I will be trying this method.

Thanks for making the time to share your experiences!

What was your hour count after the first year?

Bro’s We Miss You Man!!!

You kept it simple and straight to the point. good video.

❤

Awesome message I'm just about finished putting my hm130max together and I will check everything you mentioned 👍

Where did you buy your loading ramps from?

Thanks my plate is not pushing the tip to open the valve and let the lube run thru. My log dog,the silver one with the cam doesnot work. I will adjust the lube.

HM122 here as well. If I’m not concerned with being dead on I’ll use the scale. I actually think it’s less problematic to simply mark the board I’m cutting and drop the blade to the mark.

I don't find the upgrade section.

Greatly appreciate you throwing your mill out of alignment for us. 👍

Great video ! I have worked a bit with my brothers mill but I was having trouble figuring out the scale so I was laying a small piece of 1-1/2 angle iron on my cant and pencil marking, then cutting on my line & done the same for 2" it worked :) hoping to get my own set up and this info is all very helpful,

My HM126 will be here in a few days. I ordered my blades from Woodmizer. A buddy of mine said they're better than Woodland Mills. What blades do you use? Great video. Thanks!

I have been shopping for mill... Looking at the HM122 .. Great review, I may go with the slightly larger 126.

Thanks for your time and your explanations. Merci

Thanks, enjoying the videos! Wondering.. do you have some estimates on how many logs in the 10"-20" range can be done in a 8-hr day of milling with your setup/equipment? Got a hm130max and hand winch instead of tractor, and trying to gauge how long milling will take..

Check your arm!

Hi 👋 mad woman who bought a sawmill here - just want to say I really appreciate the in depth methodical explanations in your videos, which have helped me enormously. Thank you 👍

The belt drive wheel combo no these suck. It's not the way band saws are supposed to be made and it is not as good as the right way. I still do not regret getting it but this will always trouble me. I see other videos where people are thinking it is their fault they lose blades but it is the saw's fault. a chip can make it jump off. the drive is wrong.

Hey Chris. Digging the channel. I just came across it today and I clicked because I seen in your Backround and having a setup to put your flitches In which is very similar to what we’ve made to cut ours into firewood. Cool stuff to see other have same ideas. Liking the channel keep them coming I’ll check them all out also.

Suggest a battery screw gun with socket for tow board adjust. Totally a convenience thing

Better to have more power than not enough, also the bigger engine doesn't have to work as hard and lasts longer

Great very useful Chris, thanks

Thanks man. Definitely useful info. I have a 130max coming in a few weeks and I'll still use some of your knowledge when it arrives.

Does that engine have a governor on it?

Thank you so much for putting this video together. Great information! God bless!

I prefer a mill with a manual clutch the one i had Was built by menonites excelent mill no leveling issues ever

Bark on that looks like Sweetgum we have here in Alabama

Thank you so much, just got my 126 delivered, too snowy to even set up!

Jacking up the small end of the log, isn't going to change the size of it "/ you'll just be cutting the log diagonally "/

The cant will only be as big as the smaller end of the log will allow, which is why most Sawyers start cutting at the smaller end of a log

When u say change the blade every couple logs. Can u be a bit more specific. How much board ft about before changing

Something I have noticed on my 130max is the magnetic scales shift or move with vibration. And just being brutally honest here,. you hinted around to it . Again, this is Rough cut lumber and probably 80% of the mill tracks are out more than 1/2" in 10 feet area. so you have a track that is out and people that can't read a tape measure and do simple math. Looking to make lumber more precise than box store lumber. (not likely to happen) Now there is a learning curve to everything and you have to apply and progress with time and errors learned . This is a tool very capable of producing better lumber than most can read a tape measure. but giving the mill time to cut and not crowding or pushing it and having good sharp blades that will cut true. there are a lot of things to align and combine to achieve this. Kind of like nascar, if you can't drive a stick you won't win,. if you cant read a temperature gauge you don't even need to be in the seat. Cover the Basics first and the rest will come with effort applied is good closing statement.

Good information! I am interested in how many board feet you have cut to this point ?

Really appreciated this explanation of how to deal with a tapered log. All others dealing with tapers seem to address the diameters vs the height of the pith. OK, most often the pith is close enough to the center of the "diameters", but not always, such as the oval shape you have. Also I wonder why nobody seems to figure our the size cant wanted and cut down to that size by cutting the desired thickness boards. Would seem to be less waste if that is done. Not a sawyer, and at 91 yoa I think I can safely say never a sawyer.