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Yes, it is 120mm. Can't say it for certain as I haven't done lowers myself yet on this one and currently it is out for full service :)

Me too(not mine technically)

I don't think it is necessary as A MUST. But something to keep in mind when considering to do or not maintenance later down the road :)

I can't say whether it is really needed - but went that path and haven't done 50h afterwards. Seals were absolutely dry - wonder the reasons why they ship this by default

@@tom10crafted well not sure all the fox forks i had opened had very little oil inside, also dry seals .. guess less weight :D

@ would be hillarious if weight is actual reason!! 😅

@@tom10crafted In my opinion. It is to make customers to not underestimate the service, because customers are carried away by the performace after the first 50h service.

@patrikhoracek2680 thats a good take!

Hmm, nepamenu lenko! 😅 bet jei apie tą pabaigoj(šveicaras😅), tai SPĖČIAU kad gal su blur, bet neatkreipiau gerai dėmesio!

🙏

Depends whether cranks are removed. If yes - then insert 10mm from drive side and wiggle it a bit while pushing. If not, then place some blunt tool on drive side and push it. In both scenarios you need to just push from drive side, as pulling alone won't be enough force to do it. It is getting stuck at the preload tube between the bearings - you won't damage anything, no worries. BUT, thanks for an idea to do short snippets of maintenance - that could be handy!

@@tom10crafted I bought the Scott Spark RC SL TR frame set so it's completely naked. Drivetrain hasn't been installed yet. I figured mount the cassette tires to the wheels and install the brake pistons and align to the rotors :) ok, will use a 10mm and use my mallet to push it out via the drive side! But yeah, a short video would help so many Scott Spark RC owners. Like having the brake and shifter hose cross over each other and to insert the internal hose it's just easier to dismount the swing arm as that rubber grommet makes it a pain in the ass to run thru I've subbed! Cheers!!

Does the brake hose port come with a grommet as well where it enters the chainstay arm? After installing the hose I just now noticed this haha

@@liquidSpin if you are referencing bottom of the swingarm, where the hose comes into triangle.. Yes, you just missed to installed it, I assume! :D www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/scott_spark_cableguide-bb_cover_kit_2022-18954 (bottom left)

@@tom10crafted d'oh!! I knew it! I need to find it

@esshoul I could ask you then quite similar thing as per say - if they are irrelevant, maybe there could be just insert to slip through inside, without them? Not smooth or knocking bearings is a 1st step towards eating everything else. Why to ignore it? Not sure 👀 Also, it would be worth considering what happens when they get stuck, and which is more cost efficient to replace

@esshoul After reading this comment I'm not even sure if you understand the reason/purpose of a bearing. There is a reason why headset bearings, pedal bearings (unsealed), BB bearings will eventually need to be replaced depending on how many miles/hours ridden and what type of conditions. You might not ride as much or in the same conditions as he does which is why you don't change your bearings out as often.

@@liquidSpin dude, bearings in bottom bracket, wheels, freehub, those all spin and when they get dirt inside it takes your power whichou can use to ride faster/longer. Bearing in headset? As long as you steer and you have no wobble then its ok no need to replace. Same with suspension links, the fact it feels stiff by hand has nothing to do that it sill works ok for that miserable limited movement by few degress

Just because it does not take your watts away, does not sound to be good reason of neglect ;) What do you think will happen once bearings seize to pivot/axle and where those few degrees will slip through? For me, it is easier & more cost/time efficient to eliminate the potential issue on the spot, than leave it to do it later. But thats just me and I am not insisting others doing the same thing - I am just sharing the journey

Are you saying my weight is just an excuse, and it is pretty bad one?’ 🤣🙌🏻

@tom10crafted that what she said (c) 😂😂😂😂😂

@@ilya_zimin thankfully not “hard one” 🫣🤣🤣

@@tom10crafted 😂🤓

Hey, it’s more likely either hanger or derraileur itself, than the cassette..

@@vanjasomodi it 10cm, but I am planning to do some experiments with it 🙌🏻

@ i am currently on 6cm but it feels a bit short… would you suggest to try 7? Spark is Medium size

@ what angle it is currently? What is your height and reach aka hand length?

@ 179.5 height and also hands, but my inseam is just 82cm. I am fitted by really good fitter who is experianced with MTB and he said that i am fine… but just tried friends epic 8 (size M with 8cm stem) and cornering and feeling was better (he was also fitted by same guy and was suggested to use this stem length)

@@vanjasomodi one more thing - which headset angle do you have - steep or slack?

Funny! :) To reach borderline of Poland it's about 1k km from my place - which is more or less 10h trip, resulting in a whole day in driver's seat. Thus, we made a stop somewhere in the middle, as to just organize the trip. And no, I am not from those who brag how FAST they could go from A to B, haha.

Expecting that materials will last forever is destined for failure - thus better not to have such expectations. Cups didn't worn too much in 3 years and they are still the same on the bike (but replacing as part of maintenance will be a good thing anyways) What you have describe here is equivalent of buying a car and hoping you will not have to change any parts and it will be always new - it is not feasible in any given terms. Last but not least, there is a difference between FANCY and FUNCTIONAL - which, those cups introduces.

@@tom10crafted i'm not expecting all parts to live forever in bike but I rather expect that paying more will give u beside better look also better quality, more bullet proof solutions. My bike is not a highend Scott but I conciously chosen one that do not has some genious custom solutions which has to be maintained and be source for errors. I hope always to not to change too much of parts :) because then I have to set things again to be again perfect. I accept that some parts worn faster but I don't like to be surprised. Instead I want to have fun on riding (not servicing all the time), i dont want situations where some plastic shitty part is telling me - hey now u have to replace me or better stay at home and more over i have to pay more and scratch my head to think that there is only one shop in EU. There is of course thin difference between functional and fancy - the question is do pro users really needs this in the first place? My feeling about it is probably not: in races only counts reliability, performance, stability and ability to fix something as quick as possible. I don't see any reason to put such a slack changing option in a racing machine, even fancy Cannondale do not introduced it so this puzzles me but this a philozophical question to Scott. My gut feeling is that most expensive bikes are kind a iPhone: u get one for a big amount of many and this only the beginning of your expenses . Best of this is that not every company practice this. So I have for u another topic to discuss on channel: why u chosen this specific bike for u and how it compares to other options u get into consideration.

@@dev-on-bike thanks for your input, appreciate it! There is no better thing than constructive discussion. Scott sold this two-geometries in one idea by talking about it loudly - who does not want two differently behaving bikes in one? That is why this is not relevant to PRO's much - they can have whatever they want to have, whenever they choose to. Solutions like such are to suit as big customers range as possible and convince them they need it. Guess how many people actually tried changing this headset cups setup and can tell the difference - yes, it is minority :) Why I have chosen Spark - is perfect topic for new video!!! :} P.S. Those cups are not plastic alone, its some reinforced material, and it is not as bad as you expect:) BUT you have very valid point - if broken, thats a headache to get them!

Hey man, the battle between chesty and handlebars is very fast decided in UCI races, or, national champs - either handlebars or nothing, haha! Regardless, for me it's quite the opposite - I prefer chesty angle a lot more over the stem. While the fork would be nice for short cuts, it it a bit over the top for long durations - plus, IMO, it exposes risk of getting into the wheel :| As for the rain, it's true, but for whether its dry or wet, I always use duct tape around the ports - as you never know when the river cross might come, or, rain starts out of nowhere. Plus, the sweat! One other scenario which I have heard of - putting the powerbank into fork steerer, and making it there permanent - not sure how good idea is, but.. It could be explored. TBH the solution which I use with powerbank in chesty is the best, because it allows to make adjustments if something goes wrong. Putting it on bike pretty much is destined to failure if something unexpected happens. The issue with bib plates is real though - always a struggle to keep everything together, but that is what I choose to do in order to have nice angle. If you put camera on handlebars, just make sure you get mount where camera would point straight - personally I hate videos with camera being side-mounted :D

For the record - I filtered only climbs which had 10degrees+ of avg gradient. But... Wait until I will add Sudety MTB climbs - now those were different level of brutality :D

I do recall that dropping into middle in the beginning, but after two things has been done, it disappeared: 1. Retightening all the bolts 2. Making sure BOTH cables are not overtight Have you tightened the bolt under the dropper lever with 15mm spanner? that is basically where the problem you are facing is

Have you checked if lockout cable is tightened?

@@tom10crafted Yes, lockout cable very tight. Is yours tight when locked, doesn't it move at all?

@@MTBukk MAX MAX I would say no more than 1-2mm. Really solid, and it already had 1 full service

Absolutely agree about the gloves thing - sometimes they are not around, other times I am lazy. However, it kind of bit makes it harder to pick things with gloves and do any precise actions. Yet, it is just an excuse! What lubricant you are using from TF? Curious!

Thanks a ton, it means a lot! Actually, on the contrary I think these videos are double sided sword for Scott. In one degree, it kind how showcases that it is not that hard to do maintenance - meaning, leading to more sales. But on the other - the more people are self-tought, the less they are being relied on LBS labour. Thus, it is unlikely I ever will be sponsored by them - would be nice though, ha! :)

@@vcnzone it would be interesting for certain “time wise”, but based on the feeling I know the difference: With steeper, going downhill in trails feels less controlled, but climbing is more agile. With slack - well, it is opposite :) trails handles more comfy, and on climbs that wheel stretched in front remembers about itself:)

Indeed, monopoly seems to be a good word to describe the offering. I got in touch with them about RC Pro - it was suppose to be back in stock late October, but I took a risk ordering Team version (which thankfully, turned out to be same color tone!)

Thanks for sharing John, lots of stuff covered out there. Few pings: ~ For bearings installation, bearing fit shall be used to at least prevent wear growing. ~ One important about cables for droppers - there is Spark original set of 3 cables with housings, for single Jagwires cost. ~ Have you noticed foam inside the frame getting jammed during housing pull for shift cable? ~ Cable guide of Acros, apart from aluminum option (haven't knew it exists, thanks!), also have updated plastic one, with stronger expansion pins.

@@tom10crafted I asked Scott..."We recommend the use of Loctite 641 medium strength retaining compound." Scott set of cables: Yes, that is what I buy and have three packs in reserve as I use the 0.9mm wire for everything except the 1.1mm gear shifter. I have not had any problems with cables though I have barrel cable adjusters for fine tuning the suspension as I use an RS Ultimate Twistloc. Foam: Yes I have but am now using some generic foam bought (MUQZI 1piece 1.6M Diameter 6mm) which is better than the flimsy stuff Scott installs. When I replaced the gear housing with 3.0mm recently I just pulled the old foam out from the BB opening and was able to push a new cut section up to the headset. Will replace it all when the time comes. MUQZI also has spare UDH M12-1.0 hangers which I have bought (The original hanger just split) You probably know this but Scott do not document it: The internal T30 within the axle is to tighten/loosen it so that it all can be done from one side without removing the crank and front ring.

Going with RC Pro was exactly the reason - XTR. I am not buying electronic shifting idea, EVEN THOUGH controversially - I love technologies, and data. Thus the main argument is the feeling. Same as I do ride manual sports car and would prefer manual over anything :))

@tom10crafted i am happy that Scott offers a choice..... Just don't ask Nino regarding which is better 😃😁😆

@@jamescourier1545 Very unfortunately..Not in high end models. Which is a bit shame, and basically leaves no other options as to look for frame/frameset. OR, other brand? :))

@@tom10crafted XTR mechanical scored Olympic gold medals for both men & women recently. Enough said.

@@jamescourier1545 Now I will have an additional argument, ha!

@@TheBIKEDEALZ how your off roads looks like, what terrain it is? Plus, what you are currently using?

@ The off-road are mostly loose over hard pack. Im currently using Ground Control T7 & Fast Trak T7, both GRID 2.35 casing.

@ M are quite soft and wears. With H you would get less rolling resistance than T7 Grounds. But might be worth considering XC RC prowalls too, for better weight/tire (100g+ less than H/M’s)

@@tom10crafted as the H design pattern is very compact, how would you rate it for front?

@@TheBIKEDEALZ if terrain is mainly dry - its great. Otherwise might be packing up with dirt. I haven't used it in front, but thats my generic observation from tires use

That is quite decent distance. What tires these are?

@ Gunnison Pro XR

@@cityless7798 with such percentage on the pavement/tarmac, I don't see any good reason for none of those - tire selection and width. Ideally, consider more rolling, less chunky tires. Those 10% looks like absolute overkill for this selection

@ Thanks. I use them to slow me down so I can ride safely on bike paths, so higher RR and wider are helpful 😄. I wish the tires lasted longer, though.

@@cityless7798 thats funny, never heard such a reasoning, ha! Maybe adding sand into tires could help, huh?😅 Nevertheless, look for harder compound rubber, as such trail tires are def more softer:)

Thanks man! The most important question - will we meet THERE? 👀🥷🏼 what are the odds?!

@@tom10crafted ohh... let's see 🙈

ha, geras! :D Bet reikia paminėti vieną dalyką - viskas priklauso nuo vietos, kurioje važiuojama. Jeigu paimsim maratoną, kur 1 kartą per 20km reikės priekį kilstelt, ant įsibėgėjimo to svorio nepajusi tikrai. Alternatyviai, paėmus puse kg sunkesnį dviračio prekį ir išvažiavus į technišką trasą, ant valdomumo pasijaučia greit :)

Well, unfortunately some absolutely ridiculous custom solutions really makes it hard to find spares, but that more often is applicable in road bikes. On the contrary, I would say it is inevitable to have some issues with spare parts, if you want to ride latest bike models. It is just the part of how industry is made up to be - consumption based:)

@tom10crafted of cours if u ride long enough brand new bike u will have eventually some issue with spare parts, i have my cannondale and I was very happy till i had to service some parts after season. We tend to buy this particular bike because we love how it looks but less we thought about how actually we will spend money on service - it depends really how many custom solutions is included. Of course it hard to predict is this custom new super exited solution will survive years but my idea is take more from car industry - simplier solutions are are cheaper and easier to maintain. I want to ride a bike more then service it, so yeah check your brand new bike before buying if u care about money.

Thanks for sharing. Overtight cable can cause twinloc to fail, at the extend if lockout is too tight and you still go over it with force. however, most likely by doing that only lockout on shock/fork would be made broken, not the lever itself. By saying 5mm max - what did you mean in particular? Curious, as lockout bolts are prob 2 & 2.5mm allens.

@tom10crafted I loosen the câble of 5mm (in lenght)

@ ahhh, gotcha! 🙌🏻

Totally agree, and makes more cleared about the race course in general. Through storytelling, second camera adds more interest to the onboard though, as well as enables to compare (sometimes, which also adds a different spice to onboard)

If we talk about RC/H versions of tires, personally I would put H in front, if having that combo. Also, there are other RC color versions (not necessarily yellowish team version), which could look OK together? Congratz on your sons racing, yet don't push him too much, haha!

Great insights! That makes me feel peaceful that there are people like you, who cares! :) Ignorance is never a good approach, if there is possibility to improve it for the better.

@@Tarzan1972 haha, considering both are black… you might miss it 🤣🥷🏼

@@davidmaco1 better corning can be definitely not placebo when it comes to lite vs pro wall. Reason being - with thinnier sidewalls it tends to “bend” a bit more, thus it requires bit more pressure. I don’t do waxing, BUT that is not because I don’t believe it - just seems to be bit too much time involved for my taste 👀

@@tom10craftedgood deal,

@@KP-ol3tc thanks! So what is the state of your summer tires?? How you make a decision whether to throw them away or keep it? 🤘🏼

@ The center tread looks good, just some abuse to the outer knobs because of the rough granite here in Northern California. After this video I think I will keep the front tire and throw away rear because it has a 3 month old tire plug in it. I normally use Vittoria Barzo(f) and Mezcal(r) but I'd like to try the new Peyote

@@HultaforsGroupBe a bit too loud compared to other droppers I have 🫣

​@@tom10crafted I have the same sound with my 2024 spark team issue.. Bike is 6 months old and not been used alot.. Is this the normal sound with these fox transfers SL??

@ its common, I have 3 droppers and they pretty much have similar sound, some more, some less. The dropper in video had more than a season without service under extensive use 🤘🏼