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I've had 9 months experience riding a fast e-scooter and ive found that a thinner rotor not only dissipates heat faster, with the right blend of stainless steel and alloy... much like Shimano's ICE rotor. But the 140mm 6-bolt im currently using is significantly lighter and suprisingly doesnt need realigning after every 40 k ride on 30°C + days.

The only thing stoping me from getting larger rotors are my frame specs. ):

TRP 2.3 rotors are my go

I run 203mm/203mm rotors on my trailbike and on all my am/en/fr/dh bikes

Any tips on how to adjust pistons / pads to fit these thicker rotors? I just installed some new 203 x 2.3 mm rotors and they are dragging?

Slapped on 223/203 on my Trek rail. What a difference compared to the oem Sram 200's. It was a cheap upgrade with a lot of benefits.

I have a Shigura brake setup with Shimano XT levers and MT7 calipers and I recently upgraded from 203mm rotors to 220mm MDR-P rotors. Although the Magura rotors are really good and they stop on a dime but for the life of me I cannot get them to stop rubbing no matter what I do. The MDR-P’s in 220mm are only available in 6 bolt and I have center lock hubs. The rotors say do not use with CL adapter but the DT Swiss CL adapters say they are good up to 230mm so I decided to use them anyways, and I don’t really think that’s the issue. Because of the rub I decided to try a set of Hope centre-lock 220mm rotors to help get a bit more clearance. The Hopes are 1.8mm thick and the Maguras are of course 2.0mm thick. I’m kind of a Magura fanboy, but their rotors always seem to be a little bit warped and cause brake rub. Even with the Park rotor alignment tool I cannot straighten them enough to spin freely. I’m hoping the tighter tolerances and possibly higher quality of the Hope rotors will solve this issue. I am aware that my brakes will compensate for the thinner rotors and a potentially continue rubbing. The issue to me seems that the pistons do not retract enough to give clearance to the thicker rotor and I’m hoping a thinner rotor will solve this issue. Am I going to be giving up a tangible performance benefit?

I try to target about 6 rides totaling 10-12 hrs a week (rarely hit count, but close on hrs)... I do two in Z1, two in Z2... one Z3-4... one Z3+ (basically all out race pace) I find that sometimes it is hard to get in that 'attack' mode for the intense training rides with all the more measured, Z1 and Z2 rides. So I can struggle to keep HR in Z3+. Any tips? Typically my Z1/Z2 rides will be road or rail-trail 1-2hrs... (sometimes when in shape I can do Z2 MTBs) The more intense rides, I will do on hilly road courses or MTB. Seeing improvement in races, (recently moved up to Cat1) but find I ride more measured targting level lap splits, and sometimes leave some in the tank... vs... riding hard and trying to hang on for the distance. Is it better to ride more measured.. staying in Z4 and get more level lap splits? Or attack to ride as fast as I can with more Z5 surges, and hope to hang on? I have found the latter strategy typically has greater split times lap to lap..

About kinetic energy is true on flat courses. On long descends it is about potential energy while continuously moderating speed. Massive rotor will warm to less temperature on short stops.On long descends it wins with larger surface that is able to dissipate heat faster. The temperature will equalize at lower temperatures.

Yep, I use the same ztto rotor and notice no difference from the more expensive TRP rotor

Ordered Galfer 223mmx2.0 for my heavy e-bike. The 180s on there fade badly. Will upgrade the pads to galfer too I think. I mainly use the rear brake on very loose (sand and gravel) trails at high speed … like 30kph+ speeds

Having swapped to bigger sizes with good effect in the past . My next experiment is removing the 223 2mm size's ard replacing with 203 2.3 mm thick ones. They are in the post the experiment will start soon.

Nice video, lot off perfect information. Braking is extremely corner dependent. In berm, it almost does not matter. Berm is just tilted dent. The main problem there is to not ride over the edge, grip is not en issue. On a flat turn, is braking critical. And there I suggest not to brake with rear only, in phase 1. Typically, rear tire is less aggressive and it has less optimal contact patch. (bike geometry, angle of fork..). In flat, do most aggressive braking while you are still straight. As you start using your grip to turn (leaning) reduce braking accordingly. Just before the most demanding place (low grip, max lean...) let the brakes totally. If everything work out correctly, don't touch them until next feature.

Hi, nice video, directly to the point. Perfect. I have some thoughts to share. 1. All forks and frames have their max permitted rotor size. Exceed it, and you may break stuff. You mentioned energy and forces, the same goes for the opposite part. 2. Almost never in engineering is bigger always better. Go to big rotors for mellow hills, light rider, small wheels, slick tires, slippery trails and you will get an unpredictable, unusable system which will lock wheels on any bump. So too small is bad, but to big is also dangerous. That braking force need to be transferred to the ground, otherwise it will be sledding. And there are hardtails too. No point for big rotor on the rear wheel in that case. The rear wheel is more in the air than on the ground. 3. Try to modulate braking power on rear wheel in manual with 220mm rotor. There is a good reason why bikes for pump track have weak brakes. Better modulation, no need to stop fast, just to slow down precisely. 4. However, thicker will be better in all cases except for wight. If your caliper will fit. I have some doubts about Shimano caliper and 2.3mm rotors. If it wouldn't rub, at lest you will not get full power because of Shimano SERVOWAVE ACTION. 5. Those data you showed are excellent and also the work you are doing. I have a possible explanation on your questions. Firs of all, smoother is better, as your coasting video suggested. The same goes for braking. Les effective weaker brakes will be smoother. So your brain is able to operate them more efficiently. You are not an ABS so you can keep up with break system efficiency only up to the point. After that, brain just give up on modulation and start to regress to old habits. Like braking mainly with rear. Also, lack of modulation makes for shorter braking time. It will be ON > skid > OFF > repeat. You may not skid totally, but enough to make your brain to release a lever. I noticed you have much better time, but as you said, the firs run was even better. So it is not totally break related. Many times I have my best time in the last run when I'm totally fatigue, almost on point of cramps. I have no energy to boost jumps, to sprint, to brake hard, but regardless it is often my fastest run of the day. 6. About braking power distribution. It all depends. The only difference between motorcycles and MTB is wight distribution. You can't shift almost all weight to the rear wheel while braking on motorcycle, but you can on MTB. However, this is possible only on ascent, not on flat and definitely not on steep descent. The closer you are to something like 45 degree down hill, you wouldn't need rear brake nor wheel. So if your rear brake heats up more, you simply underutilize your front. And full front brake utilize is harder with more effective brakes (your data agrees). Try to ride from some easy hill down using just front and then just rear break. You will be instantly sure, which one is more important and which is doing more work, so require bigger heat dissipation. As always, it is down to, ride what works the best. Or if you are a racer, what is fastest. Hope you don't died testing those cheep brakes, and we get answers and new videos soon. Good luck and keep up the good work.

So you're saying i can go from a 160 front and rear to 180 with no problem. However, you are also suggesting that i change the pads at the same time correct

not all forks have post mounts that are strong enough to handle 246 mm rotors and adapters . some manufacturers say no bigger than 180

it would be awesome to see a comparison of different brake pads from different brands (noting that this would be a hefty expense as new rotors would be needed for each pad combination)

I just nerded out on rotors yesterday. My theory is about bite and timing for rotor size and weight, along with momentum, leverage and heat is least, IMO. More about how you're breaking on trail. I was holding 2 SRAM Centerlines 220-200 and a 180mm low center mass rotors. Noticeable momentum in the SRAM, and little comparatively for 180m. The surface area, and therefore cut-outs and pattern play a factor, IMO. Look at your bike, the 203s are giving away 50% area, and pads are "switching" on/off in friction. Might as well be a 180m HS2...I say momentum bc it's relative to my riding on the street, and downhill, I use 200 and I want 220, also. I'm 220lbs fast and super aggressive and late braking...I had already decided to try the TRP 2.3" 203m rotors, to prove my theory w/ my pad choices. Pads also a key factor in works with size (greater pad friction w/better pattern 180m comparable to 203mm). Nice video. Thx

Super helpful but I didn't end up Using your workout because it was too complicated. So I ended up asking chatgpt to make me a simple workout for mountain bikers and it's quite good if you want. I can send it to you and you can tell me what I could make better in it or you could make a simpler workout routine for those who just want to work out for mountain biking or even make an app

Too thin and it has no feel. Too thick and it doesnt enter in the caliper... 🤔🤔🤔

I'm curious on what do you think the effect is on caliper pad to rotor clearance? I use MT7 myself and the pad clearance on that caliper is nuts u don't even see light coming out of it. The rotors to use on that brake has to be 99% true so that it doesn't rub the pads. I guess this is what help with the great modulation of this brake? Or maybe power? I have no idea about all that but the fact that this brake released almost 10yrs ago and still is ridiculously competitive against brakes released this year is insane.

I think people think that the front need to be bigger than the rear because it gets to use the greatest breaking force without slipping, but If you only want to slow down a bit to manage speed, the rear is more useful, as the front is needing more grip to steer and stuff and breaking with the rear also transfers the load on the front tires, but without the sheering forces on the front rubber contact patch.

How much?

if youre using your back brake more you are doing it wrong lol

never understood why people would go large and small on the rotors, If you are going to change one, you might as well change them both

I ride XC, 180 front and 160 rear, perfect for me and my local trails, this on my modern 29er, on my old 26er I only have 160 front and 140 rear lol

Can the zitto 2.3 rotor fit with sram db8 6 bolt?

3x spoke lacing is the strongest because the spokes are the most tangent to the hub. It also has leading and trailing spokes so that there are always spokes in tension. I don't see much of that thinking in some of these rotors -- is the force distribution that different, or are they just making pretty patterns and assuming that the steel is more than strong enough?

My experience with new rotors of any thickness is similar to yours. The surface finish on new rotors are very abrasive. Machinists have gauges to measure this “roughness” in finish, and can grind the finish to various specifications. This surface will get smoother with use as the pads have various compositions that can be very abrasive. But all pads will wear away the surface finish eventually. The most grip is when they’re new and properly bed in. This is when you will have the most braking power regardless of rotor thickness.

How do you calculate braking force?

Better make a research video if radiators on disc are more important than radiators on pads or vice versa.

I have been using ztto 203mm rotors since last year cheap and big upgrade to my braking.

Bike industry says we need to buy more stuff again.

Got onto your channel after looking into the BrakeAce!! Now loving your channel and good info...

I hope I never fall off my bike sideways XD

I'm using $40 ztto 4 piston brakes with $15 203mm rotors and they're almost too powerful.

I want to buy a disc 246mm . What should I must do. I’m from vietnam

What about fixed vs floating rotors?

I went with a 255mm rotor on the front so my hydraulic brake caliper would clear the motor I installed. I wish I could go back down to a normal size and have clearance. I was able to get the rotor from a website called BicycleDesigner, but that site seems to be down now.

"Because rim brakes suck" 😂 never a better brake has been invented than calipers w rubber pads for skinny road aluminium wheels, the modern road hydraulic adaptation sucks, not saying MTB levers, but it's a necessary evil to put MTB tires (gravel bike), thanks for the info i will definitively put 180 rotors asap

I wish I could fit a larger rotor on my XC bike, damn flex stays with minimal room for caliper and adapters!

I'm very interested to try these on my XC bike, running XTR M9020 so hopefully they will fit. Previously used any quite like the Galfer 1.8mm. Im also curious about the ZTTO 4 Piston brake set, have you tried them out at all or is that something to stay clear of?

What are your top three websites then? Or your top 10 if you have that many? I like rim brakes. Work for me and easy to work on.

Forget about the Heat, the mechanical advantage alone is enormous.

I purchased these rotors, 203 mm. Unfortunately, I was unable to install them in the SHIMANO DEORE M6120. The rotors were too thick. Colleagues, do you have any ideas on how they can be installed in this system?

I'm a little bit concerned about a possible scenario where my MT5 brakes get hotter with thicker 2.3 rotors due to a decrease in ventilation between pads and rotors. I've heard one bike mechanic blame Formula brakes for being too hot, exactly because of that. Do you think this might be a problem and a reason to stick with my stock 2.0 Magura rotors?

Only problem i find with training with power meter on mtb is zone 2. I live in the mountains so it very hard to stick to power zones.

This rotor comparison topic is a very challenging one to explain .The biggest reason is the good number of stencillings and patterns used by one manufacturer over the years as well as the huge number of brands and overall design variations . I have about 80 styles in stock . Testing is possibly a nightmare . Some rotors in a given brand and size mostly have a pattern variation between sizes , I found .

I sometimes wonder how much a person who has completed a doctorate is going to help others working in a given field relating to it . Especially in smaller nations . I know a lady who completed a doctorate in the music field some years ago but hardly anyone has read or really benifitted from it .

Just a newbie in mtbiking, this is a little to be off topic... Let's say he has only 180 and 203... How should should you modulate brakes in steep rocky corners and what rotor setup shoud you use? A) 180F/203R - front modulation B) 203F/180R - front modulation C) 180F/203R - rear modulation D) 203F/180R - rear modulation