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where did you get the wire with the diode inside

Can you use a 10g wire on a 100 amp alternator.?

My 1966 289 alternator is not charging my battery. Mustang. Tested alt, regulator and solenoid and all are good. Just a wiring error I think. A to battery, F to field, S to stater and I to ignition. Still no luck. 1st generation 3 wire alt. Please advise.

Hi I have an overdrive transmission That will not fit my Ford F100 1955 They guy i bought it from told me it will fit But it is to small for the bellhousing Number on it is 28 AF-7006-D Do you know were iy goes on ???

Could explain the holding contacts and how the coil flutters the engine and coil?

I have a 50 ford custom sedan flat head 8 somebody already did a hack ass 12v swap gm 1 wire alternator 12v battery starts runs n charges but fuel gauge charging gauge and temp gauge do not work as well as no dash lights or dome lights. Mt question is have they fried the gauges them self or do i jus need the reducer an they should go to working again? Or do I got 2 change each gauge out? Oil pressure works touch over 30lb oil pressure cold an under normal engine temps shows Lil under 30lb.

Hello I purchase this Fire Truck and had it shipped to Augusta, GA

Is there a adapter to convert?

I had to boost my truck one last time before making the switch to twelve volt (to get it home). Prior to removing the battery, I noticed my horn no longer worked. I am guessing that that is because a horn is wired 'hot' and as soon as power was introduced, the 6 volt horn got 12 volts. So my question is, is my horn irreparably damaged ? I bought a new horn relay for the 6 to 12 volt swap along with all the other stuff you recommended. I even got the small $79 unit you did a separate 3 minute video on. It cost a LOT more when shipped to Canada. SO is my vintage horn 'toast' ?

Love the illustration it helped me out

Quick question. I have a B/W unit separately spliced into the torque tube of my '47 Ford sedan back towards the rear end (not attached to the transmission like normally installed on later year models). As wired, there always is power to the relay, regardless as to whether the cable is pushed in or not. If the cable is not pushed in (i.e., OD is not mechanically engaged) does the governor switch still engage the solenoid once speed exceeds 28mph and is that bad? On my install I do have a toggle switch to cut power to the relay if needed. Thanks.

Why do the even have a sense wire? I mean why output is already right there next to it, why did they not just do that internally? Seem pointless, I don't get it. Edit: I do now. The way it's being done in this picture is pointless, incorrect. The sense wire needs to be away from the alternator, closer to the load or battery so it can see the voltage drop. Coming right out of the alternator it's going to be a false higher voltage. Doing like in the picture the alternator will maintain the battery at a lower charge, not optimally, but it will still "work".

I love it that you say you want us to understand how things work because I am trying to learn. I am switching my 42 Ford from 6 to 12 volt and following everything you are kind enough to share. I would be lost without you. Thank you so much Zack.

Excellent video sir!! This has truly helped me understand my 54 Crestline more! I had no overdrive on the ride this morning and am trying to see why. Hopefully it's something simple like a bad ground. Gotta get under it to check!

i have a question i need help? i put a new carburetor and fuel pump in my 1950 chevy bel air 235 engine 3 on the tree ! i can’t get fuel to shoot out of the fuel pump its brand new! i blew out the gas lines! and put new filters nothing ! could anyone help!?

What diode should I use on a 24 volt altenator, I have a m35a2 deuce and half military truck with a diesel engine, im replacing altenator with a civilian altenator, but it's 24 volt 70amp, and it won't start putting out power until I touch the exciter, but I want to connect it up and not have to keep touching it, so I want put diode in and not have to use a switch to turn on and off.

what would make it try to jmp out of gear while in direct holding back down hill with the cable all way out and I have checked sll linkage and confirmed the cable is pulling lever is all the way forward

You wouldn't happen to be able to make a video of the kickdown switch and all the original routing and stuff would you? Also where are the identification numbers on the r10 and r11s?

If I have a 3 or 4 post ign switch I dont need a diode or idiot light right?

Will my kill switch shut off my car if i didn't have a dail in the white wire

would the battery read the same 14.4 v if the alternator is working?

Where does the white wire go

1984 cutlass my charge light stays on even when I pull the key out new alternator new battery

Where do you get the connector kits from

Muy buenos pero que sea en español

I'm trying to figure out what seems to be a common problem with the overdrives on old studebakers. I have a 57 E7 Transtar that has the Borg Warner overdrive. It keeps blowing the fuse after driving it successfully many miles or even just a few miles. Two things: I'm wondering if oil is getting into the solenoid from a poor seal. I do have a leak coming from somewhere on the back of the transmission. Transmission folks said that they all leak and that it's probably because of the old seals. This truck is in immaculate condition and is well taken care of. Still, I should be able to replace the seals, right? Or do I need to buy a whole new solenoid? The second thing I'm wondering is if the 12 volt conversion is throwing too many amps at the fuse relay where the fuse is blowing. It seems to blow when I give it a lot of gas getting on a highway. If that's true, should I put the 12v relay system you mentioned on this video. Possibly a third issue could be something that I've noticed. I know there are two wires going to the solenoid, but mine only uses one. It's still works, when the fuse isn't blown, and I'm wondering why someone would disconnect the wire and leave it hanging? The way I make my overdrive work is to get to the proper speed, let off the gas pedal and then give it gas again and it engages. I don't know how to unengage it other than downshifting and or coming to a stop and turning it off. It does go back into the slower first gear when I come to a stop. Fantastic video! It made a lot of sense to me and gave me confidence in order to do it myself. I am not a mechanic, but I'm not afraid to turn a wrench and test a wire or two. Thank you for any response that might be helpful.

Thanks for the video. Can you tell me where I can order the one wire diode alternator wire?

I see an extra bolt on the back side of both alternators, will that be where u hook up your negative cable to the body of the car?

Hey (Zack ? ) Kool video thinking switch 53ford 6 volt to 12. You made my decision for me.

I like your videos very helpful

I have good battery, it's 12.6v holds charge I just need to test the alternator it's the 3rd one i installed now there's 8.8v coming from the PCM wires to alternator so when I ground the other wire to see if increase in voltage at the battery but nothing. Today I will bypass the those wires his time put 12v to alternator and tap the ground again to see if battery increases to 14v.Any ideas are greatly appreciated.

Good Evening. Found your RUclips site today. I'm attempting to convert a 1948 TE20 Ferguson Tractor from 6-volt to 12-volt using a Delco Remy alternator 12 volt x 105 amp, model DREI130, remanufacture #20402. Following your video to plan the wiring harness has provided good information. The connector plug has three short wires that indicate P-L-I-S ... How are these wires connected, are all three required or only one? Appreciate any insight that you are willing to provide. TTFN/CDC

Very Informative THXS

I park with trans in reverse on shallow grades, locks the drive shaft. My Ranchero and 57 convertible bird don't have the long shaft solenoid or spacer and no clearance problem(?) Full size convertible does. Never ever drive without oil in the OD case. R10s low power only. All parts are available for these transmissions. Been using T85/ODs in performance cars for many years, overdrive as necessary as front disk brakes.

Finally someone who can explain this simply and clearly. THANK YOU!!!!

Great Video! I have a 52 Willys Pickup that has a 289 & T10 4 Sp conversion in it (previous owner). It also has 5.38's in the Timken rear end (i know right - it's like a tractor) It has the BW R10 on it but it has never been wired up properly, as when i did it way back when; I never finished as the wiring for the relay, governor; solenoid and kickdown switch, lockout switch, as all was sort of confusing (I was ~27 then, i'm 64 now); ofc way back then, no internet. Mine also has a little square lockout switch on the end of the case to break connection to the governor. The fact the cable handle is almost always in, was also confusing... I kept thinking pull it out for on; I actually bolted an aluminum bar to the OD lever (to push and pull from the top) to reverse that, and yes I am going to remove it, but it seems it's all so automatic, the way you explained it is, that it's pretty much always in (on) and out (locked out) at low speed. My truck is 4wd so i will have to remember to lock it out (pull the cable handle out) before engaging the 4WD. I guess I was also confused about reverse... so if it's all automated and your below 28-30 mph; it's locked out anyway from the electrical side and reverse should be fine. I am sort of glad i never understood it in my 20's.. as I could have seriously done something bad. I love this Video btw.. great job.. I think I only need the relay, harness, KD switch (I plan on running that off the carb linkage somehow) to make it like it should be. The 5.38's should make this project interesting in the end :).

Best video I’ve found yet thank you sir.

Could you do a video on how to test the kickdown switch to make sure its operational

Thanks brother you make it so much easier. Your a wealth of knowledge.

No wonder these Mazda's white wires are burning up to a crisp. The diodes probably popped.

Looks like the white wire is also connected to the positive battery terminal

How can I know if my alternator brush is bad

Can i get a different switch for the kickdown so i can just press a button instead of it being under the pedal?

I'm glad I found this video I just inherited 52 Ford with the overdrive transmission my dad showed me how to work it but that was 45 years ago it sat for the last 30 years not running I got it running 6 months ago and the first thing I noticed was none of the forward gears would hold the car with motor off even went to Ford dealership to find out if they knew and of course they didn't 52 didn't have the computer to tell parts changers what was wrong.the cable is broke so I'm assuming it is in overdrive and afraid not knowing it was in overdrive I have ruined it is there a way to get it out without the cable working

Hello, i just inherited my father's 1952 f3. he bought of a someone who has totally butchered the wiring. The nearest I can tell it has ben converted to 12v electronic ignition. My question is that year come with 12 volt or 6 volt originally. Thanks Victor

Hello, i have a CS 130 Style alternator with the 2 wire connector plug. But my question is, do i need a alternator with PLFS or PLIS? OR is it the same. I have a conversion from Vintage Auto Garage with the PLFS regulator for my 1954 Dodge. Hope you can help me. Best Christoph

Great explanation sir. Thank you

You explain clearly and thoroughly, you do a great job teaching.

Have you messed with 12v conversation wiring up the radio as well?