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Eaton transmission with 7 speed full synchro coupled with a cummins engine pushing 500 hp stock. And a hood and fenders that would flip forward. Game over for gm and ford.

I have a 2021 model and so for it's been a great machine. I did have the windows tinted and that really helped the ac. Really like being able to get out of the machine while the boom is up, makes loading things so much easier!

Bobby J. A friend of mine showed me a trick to clean rust of chrome. Pull out an handfull of grass. Not rough grass, But lawn grass . Give it a shake to clean dirt off an rub into rusty area. Amazingly it takes rust off. Anyway months later i was at work and i parked to close to a rusty gate post and when i set off i rubbed the trucks bumber against it. White paintework all scratched, Looked pretty awful. So i thought i would try that idea on paintwork. Just curious and you know what, No one even new about my mess up. It really did work pretty well. Im guessing the juices have something usefull in that grass and perhaps a bit of grit too. Should just try on small patch on scratched cab area . May surpriswe you.

Did you consider the Mecalac MCR? I’m deciding between the two and leaning towards the Mecalac.

How hard was it?

👍🏻

The super duty 10 speed is great when empty you hardly feel or hear it. I’m a long time Ram owner this 8 speed is way past due.I will see about the new Cummins power output is may want to come back from Ford

Viewing from Texas🤠Appreciate your sharing. Enjoyed the video and your thoughts, experience and creative expertise. Subscribed, looking forward to seeing more. Stay safe, healthy, strong, discerning and successful. Blessings and prayers to you and family in Jesus's Mighty Name for all that you consider important and personal. ☝🙏🙌💪👊

I bought a new 2006 quad cab 4x4, still have it. 147k miles. Truck has been fantastic except for the interior. The microfiber cloth is complete garbage as is the foam bottom cushions. I’ve replaced the multifunction switch 3 times. My tach stopped working or spins around backwards. And the worst thing, the HVAC box under the dash with the plastic blend doors that break. After my fourth door broke and could no longer get AC out of the dash, I pulled the dash off, rebuilt the box with the steel door kit. Since then, the AC has been colder than it was when new. It used to run 46-50 degrees out of the vents when new and you couldn’t really run it on max recirculate because then the temps would come out even higher, over 50 degrees. The other thing I noticed when new is it would drip very little condensation out of the drain. Since replacing all the doors, there is a ton of condensation and the vent temps get to 40 quick and stay there. It will freeze you out even in 100+ temps in central CA. Now I need to upgrade the front end with the new style heavier duty steering. I replaced the track bar with a Thuren and it helped tighten up but there is still quite a bit of play in the steering. Also the truck is bone stock, never tuner, stock rims and tires. 48RE tranny still running strong with 30k drain, filter, and both band adjustments done correctly. I clay bar and wax it 2 times a year and the paint still looks new. With new truck prices and emissions garbage, I’ll keep what I have for another 20 years.

Man is a walk cummins manual… is there anything you don’t know brother? Love the video.

Your videos are amazing and will be my tuturiala for sure, thanks for sharing 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

You are the first to explain in detail…fixing to do to my 3rd gen with 5th gen Laramie seats black

Back in the day, we referred to the motor generations, not the body generations. First gen was VE pump, second gen was p7100 pump, 3rd gen was 24 valve, etc. Now everyone looks at them like car generations.

I wish they took this and added some miracle grow and beefed this thing up to about 100hp wider stance and more breakout force and larger excavator boom and arm. It would be like taking the power of a John Deere 60 ex and ASV VT100. If that makes sense. They used to have those crawler loaders with backhoe but they were just not practical. With today's technology and high-flow hydraulics, I can see smashing the above-mentioned equipment and making a real contender. In my thick #michigan clay, this thing would struggle to dig and move dirt.

We've had rely good luck with Kentucky clutches in our cummins trucks and gassers we pull pretty heavy too

Have you had any problem with the pivot on the backhoe leaking oil? We have had JCB backhoes in the early 80s and never had a problem. I bought the JCB 1CXT backhoe, love the versatility of the machine, But, in one year it has been in the shop 5 times at two different JCB dealers trying to fix the oil leak on the pivot for the backhoe. They have to wait for parts and or they have to call JCB to tell them how to fix it. They told me if it was not under warranty I would be paying $10,000 to $15,000 to fix it each time. I have put 1200 hours on the backhoe and I was told I use the machine too much. I just got the machine back again from the shop and it is leaking oil the first day. I told them I need a new machine because this is a lemon and I was told this will never happen. I wanted to trade this machine in for a cat skid steer and they only want to give me $34,000. I can't afford this machine when it is out of warranty.

Can’t wait to see the channels growth keep going man !

Your videos are always cool to watch man. You’re exactly right about the big Tex, looks like an early 2000’s or late 90’s model where they use to make better and stronger trailers than the junk they make nowadays way before they had the nickname big flex. I actually like those older basic model big Tex 20GN trailers because they were stout

My 5th gen limited is delmonico red pearl coat and everywhere I go people compliment it

Dang the old girl was working 💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽. Hopefully the next trailer is a diamond C 🫣🫣

Do you think the steering kind of sucks on these trucks, just feels like you have to work to keep the truck in the center of the lane. I have replaced everything up front and it just isn't enjoyable to take on long road trips. It always seems like a job to drive it. Any thoughts on it? Thanks

My dream missing two generations 😂

Was your 01 a disc brake rear end? Thinking about dually swapping my 02 and wondering what all I’ll need to do so.

I never liked stock 7.3 ps. I would take a idi 7.3 na from early 90s. Straight power. My 2001 stock Cummins gets 20 mpg in town grandpa style. But you have to punch it to get the rpms going. Lly Duramax and 6.0 ps are quick power houses

I’m surprised you don’t carry an ice chest on the flatbed for cold drinks in those hot days

Sweet video and work truck Bobby! Love all the color match on it with the bullet grill and clear headlights Central Valley look😎🤘🏻 Montezuma boxes FTW!!!

Thanks Bobby J for doing a rundown on The 04. it’s my hopes to build a rig like it someday.

Hey I have that wedge toolbox if your interested 🤔🤔🤔 🤷🏽‍♂️ like Sam said it's a bobby J box lol

Thank you! I have similar thoughts...almost wanting to purchase, but I want it quieter, less twitchy, and more powerful.

Went out just as you described. Empty truck. 19k miles

Went out just as you described. Empty truck. 19k miles

Mine went out yesterday, stranded in wyoming

I know this is an older video but I just bought the same bed myself, what are the two wires sticking out where the trailer plug is? I can’t find anything on norstars website about them.

how did it go with wiring up the laramie seats?? from the SLT??

Looks awesome. I did a complete 5th gen laramie dash and seat swap in my 3rd gen a couple months back. This stuff definetly takes some time and patience to do.

Hey I know that guy LoL 😆..... The boss man truck looking 💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽

I’d be all over a stout 7-speed. I will put one on order at launch, no hesitation!

The wilkey is a beast, it’s like your farming rocks with a side of almonds up there in the hills. I would say it’s amazing the amount of round river rock you find up in the foothills on the edge of the valley. My grandparents and great uncles had a walnut and almond hullers from the 60’s… never saw them run but the asperator was just a screen deck about 2’ x 3’ with a blower on it right after the pit. Small scale back then like 1 ton capacity per hour I believe it was made by a company called Barton.

My TRX’s ZF transmission is the best transmission I’ve ever owned. My plan is to go with a Cummins in 2026 so hopefully the kinks are worked out in the new 2025 models coming out.

Nice! How much does that whole setup weigh that was on white second Gen’s trailer?

First! Get after it!!

I sure do love my 92 Cummins.

Did the front seats bolt up with no issues

I experienced the 97 and 98 12vs and the 99, 00, 01 and 02 24vs. The 98 12v has a following of its own. While I appreciate the simplicity it was too unique for me to fall in love. It had the “new” looking interior with the old switch gear. The one year only cluster. Brakes that would make any mechanic sigh. I really like the 01.5/02 trucks for all the reasons you stated.

4th gen bumper looks terrible. Hope it finds a factory bumper!

I’m a FASS believer till the end. Fass or dog there both the basic same thing, small Little differences to argue about. I like the FASS and have never had any issues. Nothing. I like that the FASS has an optional probe heaters that thread into the block/ manifold body of the fass pumps itself, to heat fuel for ultra cold climates. I’m in Colorado. On the western slope where it’s a bit warmer now, but it still gets cold in Gunnison in the mtns, like -30 lol. That optional dual probe heater kit is pretty trick, just thread it in and plug em in to the harness. Real simple. They just thermostatically controlled. I like to run the Bigger larger CAT Filters. They have a better concreting than a generic Napa gold or csrquest blue or a Baldwin or what ever. The only other thing I’ll run is a WIX filter. Plus it looks cool it the big yellow CAT filters hanging down so everyone can see the yellow color and the CAT logos lol. All the stock stuff under the hood I threw in the trash. Full delete, I even took off the factory steel fuel lines along the frame, it wasn’t easy but they came off in sections and pieces haha lol. Removing all the factory OE stuff under the hood frees up a lot of space and really cleans and unclutters the motor. You can darn near get to your starter from the topside when you remove all the OE fuel filter housing and OE junk Carter pump. The problem Is was with them OE Carter pumps is they would get hot and then they wouldn’t flow as much. They get weak and can’t keep up. The VP 44 needs constant unrestricted uninterrupted flow of cool Clean fuel to stay cool. Anything below 10 psi and you’re asking for a vp44 death code. If you’ve installed any type of tuner or done any fueling upgrades the a FASS is an absolute must. I did a sump. A sump is so simple and easy. You don’t even got to drop the tank. Go with one of the dual port dumps like the one from Beans diesel! You can use that secound port for the fuel return, and then you won’t have to put the t fitting in the filler neck for the fuel return. OR! You can do the filler neck return line and use the 2nd port on the sump as a fuel ‘line-in’ from an AUX tank in the bed!!! Run a line from your pumper tank with red diesel in it to that 2nd port and it’ll gravity feed in. As the fuel level drops in the main OE tank, fuel will trickle and flow in from the aux tank. Simple out a peacock shot off valve in line, reach under there and turn it on/off if when yiu either want it or don’t want it to flow. Pretty trick if you ask me. I’m looking at putting a smallish 35 gal AUx tank in the bed on my ‘02 and doing that, feeding the fuel into the 2nd port on my sump and letting it just gravity feed. That’d be cool for a road trip, have that extended range from an additional 35 gallons and now having to stop and fill up or pump from one tank in the bed into the trucks OE tank. Less chance of fuel contamination to. Come California and their ‘green diesel’ everything’s gotta be ‘green’ and earth friendly in California. You can be ‘GREEN’ Bobby J! Start running waste motor oil! Secoundbgen vp44 pumps love and will run really good on waste motor oil, used transmission fluid and waste veggie oil! There’s specific things and ways you gotta do it, and how you want to filter it down and dilute it with diesel, you dilute the used motor oil like 50/50, just it with half red diesel. If that’s even a thing in California?! Tax free red ‘off-road diesel’?! Is that a thing in commie corona? The tax capital of the world? I wouldn’t be surprised if they even taxed ‘red diesel fuel’ hahaha. Colorado is a free for all still, especially in the small towns. Lot of cattle ranchers and stuff. They got red fuel at the pump here in Gunnison CO. The truck is to just go fill up on a Sunday evening, swipe your card and pay at the pump, and fill up trucks OE tank to after you top off your pumper tanks! lol everyone does it. I had a 1984 VW rabbit ‘caddy truck’ 4 cylinder non turbo diesel that I converted to run on used waste oil. With it being the caddy truck and having the factory VW hard topper shell that was the perfect place to put the e 30 gal aux tank with a heater in it. Plumbed up a separate gas system for the waste oil weather it be used motor oil, atf or waste veggie oil I was running. With a separate fass system I could start it on normal diesel and get it operating to temp, while the in tank heater heated up the waste oil, then flip a switch and it would start running on the filtered waste oil! 60mpg uphill/ into the wind all day long! Purred like a Little kitten. With its little 1” tail pipe it’d roll coal! Then when you were done driving before you shut down you’d flip a switch and switch it back over to normal diesel and purge all the lines and the injection system of any waste oil so nothing would get clogged or gel up on you if everything cooled down or the weather was cold. The system always got purged of waste oil before shut down. It was trick! It was neat having a separate little 90gph FASS system. There great products, every diesel truck or diesel engine should have one. Again vp44 trucks it’s a must have, it’s cheap insurance it really is. On these newer diesel trucks with all these cp4 injections pumps failing and causing $15,000 repair bills. It can all be prevented! With a FASS system! Well the cp4 thing is a combination of several things, but not having adequate fuel flow to the injection pump is one of the issues. The old first gen rotary VE pumps and the p7100 pumps were harmed by a lack of fuel flow, they’d just fall on their face, or couldn’t hurt anything internally. The vp44 pumps will burn up if they don’t get the cool clean fuel. The newer cp3 pumps on the common rails , they can suck fuel up to it if they need to and aren’t harmed by a lack of fuel flow. The newest cp4 pumps are the worst and not only do they suck at sucking the fuel up to themself, they also blow up and then send all that metal shavings and contaminats back thru the entire fuel system and back to the tank, it wipes out the injectors, all the lines have to be replaced, the long fuel lines have to be flushed and the fuel tank removed and flushed and clean, it can be like a $15,000 ordeal all said and done if things aren’t done to protect it. A cp3 conversion is highly recommended! No special programming or tuning required! Typically a 100gph FASS system is good for up to 600hp a 165gph sister is good for 600-1000hp. Now the bigger 165gph pump is only $50 more than the 100gph pump, I went with the bigger one, it leaves you ‘room to grow’ is how I justified it. They make even bigger pumps, I think they make like a 265 gph pump. That’d be using in 2000+ hp applications and Marine applications where your running dual motors or something. Check out the dual probe heater kits for the fass systems if you live in a cold climate. It’s super trick! As far as deleting all the stuff under the hood, it’s simple, remove it all and toss in garbage. You’ll need a block off plate for a 2nd gen. The 2nd gen blocks still have the mechanical fuel pump hole in the block, like the first gen’s used a mechanical lift pump. But on the 24v’s there’s no line on the cam. They didn’t do away with the hole in the block till 2003 on the 3rd gen common rails. Block off plates are cheap, you can do a fancy billet aluminum machined one from several companies and they cost like $100 or more or you can get the cheap $9 version at any auto parts store! MR. gasket part number: 1516 it’s for a chrome block off Plate! Fits Chevy big block and Cummins motors! It’s the same mech fuel pump block off plate at big block Chevy uses! Cheap and any auto parts store usually in stock! Comes with gasket but use red also! That’ll get rid of the ugly bracket that’s on the side of the block that holds the OE Carter lift pump. The bracket actually blocks off the older style mech lift pump Hole. Haha!

I love bobby j second gen vids! I’ve got a unicorn 2nd gen 2002 24v High Output 6 speed Manual, is a 56 block. It’s only got 100,000 on it. The interior is so long perfect it even still smells Like a brand new truck! Garage kept all its life! No rust no damage, immaculate inside and out with tasteful upgrades and everything bulletproof proofed! I bought it from the org owner a 67+ year old retired gentlemen in Denver CO, its was a CO truck all its like, so no corrosive salty roads! Colorado doesn’t use salt on the roads. He hardly used the truck and kept it in the garage all the time, the truck was only used in the Colorado summers for him and his wife to tow their 24ft 5th wheel camper around CO to the forest service campgrounds in the summer time, in the winter months it was garaged and not driven! When I bought it 9 years ago it only had 79,000 miles on! I gave $16k cash sight unseen. All original, unmolested, all factory OE, the only thing it had done to it was 5th wheel rails in the bed and side steps which I took off lol. The old gramps took meticulously good care of it as most older people do take really good care of their trucks. They are defiantly the best persons to buy a used truck from! Non smokers, no pet hair. It was a mint condition truck inside and out. I got really lucky! I love the 2002’s they are by far the top of the top when it comes to 2nd gen’s. Everything in the drive terrain is beefed up and bigger and the best of the best! My ‘02 doesn’t have the CAD vacuum crap. You mentioned some have it and some don’t. I think it’s junk. The CAD front axles don’t have the true dana 60 beefy 35 spline outers. My non CAD front dana 60 is a true 35 spline dana 60. It’s also something a lot of 2nd gen guys don’t know about. Like they know about the CAD sorta and what it does but they don’t realize it sucked and it was improvement to delete it and get rid of it! REAR DISC breaks are huge yes! Again it’s often over looked by 2nd gen guys cause they all think that rear drums was all you could have, and to get disc you have to do a bolt or weld on disc conversion, which isn’t hard, I’ve done several, but the biggest rear axle with disc breaks you could get was a ‘02 second gen with the dana 80 rear disc! I’m so so glad I bought my ‘02 when I did. I got really really lucky to find such a mint all original unmolested perfect low low Milage 2nd gen. I remember I almost didn’t buy it, cause it was a long bed and I wanted a short bed for some reason at the time, but I’m glad I got the long bed. It’s the only way a truck should be! At the time I had just sold my 2006 mega cab 24v that I had all modded out and trucked out and built. I sold it to have a down payment on a house and the other portion chunk I used to buy my current ‘02 24v HO 6 speed extended cab long bed. I was shocked to find such a low milage truck with only 79k on it. I couldn’t believe it. Everything I was finding was well over 200k miles, and needed paint and body work plus all the other typical normal 2nd gen issues like steering, KDP and the list goes on…everything I found was in the $10,000 range. lol this was in 2014, defiantly back before the whole ‘secound gen craze’ that’s made them way over priced in the $20k + zone for a high milage beat up and cow kicked automatic ‘ranch truck’ that’s filthy inside and out, needs paint and body work and everything else. That You’d have to dump another $20k into just to get it to where you want it. I scored mine for $16k, and I remember everyone was telling me I was over paying! ‘Ahh your paying to much for an older 15 year old truck!’ Everyone told me that, even my buddy that’s a huge second gen guy, and owns a dealership in Gunnison Colorado, said I was paying to much for it at the time. i remember I was trying to put the cash in the old Man’s hand as fast as I could, I was scared he was gunna change his mind and not sell it. The only reason he was selling it was he had got a newer dodge Cummins dually with manual transmission of course to tow his bigger 5th wheel camper. When he was doing the deal on the new truck he was going to trade the ‘02 in at the dealer but they didn’t want to give him hardly anything for it. He said they were only trying to give him $8k-$9 trade in on it back then lol. one thing you didn’t mention anything or enough about was the 53 block weakness in the 2nd gen’s! A lot of people don’t know about it and over look it, big time, especially when putting these second gen’s you see up for sale for high dollar! And you ask them what block number it is and to check and take pics and there like ‘huh’? They don’t have a clue. Their ego gets crushed when you explain to them they have a 53 block that’s going to crack, not if but when… I hate it when these guys will say ‘well the trucks got 300k on it so if the 53 block was gunna crack it would have done it already’ that’s such a piss poor excuse, people will tell themselves anything to make themselves feel like they don’t have something inferior. lol And truth be told, it’s not ALL 53 blocks from what I understand. Some 53 blocks don’t have the thing casting in that area. I guess there’s a way to measure the thin knead of the block in the spot that they always crack at and tell weather it was one of the affected 53 blocks. There’s a lot to it, the plant it was cast at and when, but It requires removing a freeze plug and draining the coolant and taking a micrometer and measuring the block in that area. That’s what I understand, I’m sure there’s more thorough articles on it on the forums. The 56 block is the thickest of all the castings. You need to mention more on the KDP! It’s prolly the most known issue, but still a lot that don’t have a clue about it. Some have said that in specifically 2002 it’s not an issue, as they used the updated front timing case where the hole for that ‘killer dowel’ pin was modified so it could fall out. It’s just what I’ve heard. And would make sense cause the 3rd gen 24v common rails have the updated timing case where that dowel hole has a lip over it. Is there a way to do the high idle on a 2002? Using the cruse control? I know some of the programmers/ chip/ tuners have it built in. And when you were talking about programmers, the QuadZilla is the baddest chip/tunner/programmer for a ‘02 HO 24v! Everyone says go with the quadzilla! Awesome vid! I wish I had friends like this to hang out with and do truck stuff with.

That will weed out the real drivers and the wannabes

What's needed is a 10 speed Fuller or a 8LL

You do know that these had the 5.9 V8 and the 8.0L V10, right?