- Видео 16
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Musket Matters
Добавлен 2 окт 2017
New N-SSA Shooter Series: How to clean a musket without taking it apart.
In this episode we will show how to clean a musket without taking it to pieces.
Просмотров: 142
Видео
N-SSA New Shooter Series: How to hang breakable targets.
Просмотров 1394 часа назад
In this video we will teach you how to hang breakable targets used in N-SSA team competitions. Want to do this? www.n-ssa.org
New N-SSA Shooter Series: How to dip-lube bullets.
Просмотров 20812 часов назад
In this episode, we will learn how to dip-lube bullets for use in black powder firearms. Tom Crone sizing dies: 301-473-5699
New N-SSA Shooter Series: How to make bullet lube.
Просмотров 68416 часов назад
In this episode, we will learn how to make a classic recipe of black powder bullet lube: a 50/50 mix of beeswax and Crisco vegetable shortening.
New N-SSA Shooter Series: How to clean a musket.
Просмотров 296День назад
In this video, we will demonstrate how to clean a musket. Note: Do not use abrasives or sharp implements to clean a blued barrel, as you can damage the bluing. You will have to be more gentle with cleaning patches and softer tools like plastic or wooden implements to get stubborn gunk loose.
Dunk cleaning your black powder revolver.
Просмотров 7 тыс.6 месяцев назад
In this episode of Musket Matters, I will explain how I "dunk clean" my Remington New Model Army black powder revolver.
New N-SSA Shooter Series: The Revolver
Просмотров 839Год назад
In this video, we will discuss loading, shooting, and safetying off-the-line when shooting a revolver in N-SSA competition. N-SSA Rules: www.n-ssa.org/rules-forms
New N-SSA Shooter Series: Leathers
Просмотров 744Год назад
In this edition of Musket Matters, we will discuss your "leathers" for shooting in the North-South Skirmish Association. For shooting long arms, at a minimum you'll need a waist belt, a cartridge box, and a cap box. N-SSA Rules: www.n-ssa.org/rules-forms
New N-SSA Shooter Series: Cartridges for muzzleloaders in the North-South Skirmish Association
Просмотров 1,5 тыс.Год назад
This video is for people new to competition shooting in the North-South Skirmish Association. I'll go over how to make "cartridges" for use with muzzle loading arms in N-SSA competition. N-SSA Rules: www.n-ssa.org/rules-forms Cartridge tubes: www.ssfirearms.com/products.asp?cat=175 www.dixiegunworks.com/index/page/product/product_id/6775/category_id/333/product_name/XA5220 Dixie Quick Load Targ...
How to make the 1860 Final Design Enfield Paper Cartridge
Просмотров 16 тыс.3 года назад
In this video we will demonstrate how to make the final iteration of the paper cartridge designed for the P1853 rifle musket. The ammunition for the 1853 Enfield evolved rapidly from about 1851 to 1860, progressing from at first being a somewhat radical design, to state-of-the-art, to obsolete, all in the space of about a decade. This version of the Enfield cartridge is arguably the pinnacle of...
How to do a load workup using a Pedersoli Sharps Carbine.
Просмотров 8 тыс.5 лет назад
In this video we explore doing a load workup with the Pedersoli Sharps Carbine and the Eras Gone Richmond Sharps bullet.
More details on making cartridges for the Sharps carbine
Просмотров 7 тыс.5 лет назад
In this video we go into more detail on how to make combustible paper cartridges for the 1859 Sharps Carbine.
Constructing paper cartridges for the Sharps carbine
Просмотров 6 тыс.5 лет назад
In this video we will learn how to determine the correct paper size for making combustible cartridges for the 1859 Sharps carbine, using the Eras Gone Confederate Sharps bullet. Web site for making custom graph paper (for cartridge templates): incompetech.com/graphpaper/simpleasymmetric/ Eras Gone Bullet Molds: erasgonebullets.webstarts.com/
Replacing the front sight on a Pietta Spiller and Burr revolver
Просмотров 23 тыс.6 лет назад
In this episode of Musket Matters we will take a look at how to replace the front sight post on a Pietta Spiller and Burr reproduction revolver.
How to render a 60 pound lead pig into ingots
Просмотров 1 тыс.6 лет назад
In this video we will see how to render a 60 pound "pig" of lead into smaller ingots that can be used with your production pot when casting bullets. Lost and Foundry: www.foundry101.com/ Sanders Lead: www.wileysanders.com/ (Note: Sanders is also a trucking company, but their facility in Troy, Alabama also smelts and sells lead)
Equipment needed to start shooting in the N-SSA
Просмотров 3,6 тыс.7 лет назад
Equipment needed to start shooting in the N-SSA
What is your favorite brush supplier?
I tend to buy them from S&S Firearms as their brushes fit their jags. I'm not sure of the thread size as I'm sure you can buy them elsewhere.
Yes sir, thank you. This would have been very handy to have watched before the Eva shoot. Everyone was very patient and helpful to me. Great bunch of folks. Our new bunch learned a lot
You're welcome! Working with a new influx of folks, and hoping for another big crowd this year, I've been thinking about how to "train" folks without being actually there with them to do it. RUclips seems like a great way to make some "training classes" for new folks.
Works on cannonballs
Add a little Johnsons floor wax acts like alox is a microcrystaline wax
No cheap plastic funnels. Ouch and 10 years of cotton wax/towel fire starter.
I would wonder how stable the Crisco would be over say 20 years? Tallow is very stable and would last more than 20 years. Why? All plant or seed oils have a need for electrons and they pluck oxygen which causes rapid oxidation. Not so tallow which has an electron ratio exactly paired carbon to hydrogen atom. Unlike polyunsaturated lipids. which slows the degradation.
I can tell that any bullets that sit more than a month become much more waxy and rigid than fresh lube. This is why I typically do not lubricate bullets until just before a match.
Was invented as a lube for u-boats in ww1
The one other target that is in common use is wood blocks. Those normally need a stapler - make a 90 degree bend in one end, staple it to TWO edges of the block. Styrofoam coffee cups filled with water used to be fairly common, but have fallen out of favor these days. FWIW, this video has a lot of good advice.
I would have liked to have covered the styrofoam cups, but I did not have any at hand. I will try and hit them later. We do not do wood blocks here very often as they are often hard to tell if they are grazed. Same for cans and cups, though we use those a lot.
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos!
No problem. Thanks for watching!
Pyrex glass like that is no longer heatproof it's not borosilicate anymore.
Evidently this measuring cup is made by Anchor Hocking and is made of soda lime glass, which they have used for 40 years. It claims to be "oven, microwave, dishwasher, refrigerator and freezer safe." www.anchorhocking.com/measuring-cups/ I've been using this one for 12 years with no problems so far.
I'm interested in the NSSA. I live in Ohio. Who would I contact?
Hi Wayne! I believe Ohio is in the Northwest Territory Region. Try this regional web site's contact us page: www.nwtskirmisher.com/ or email them at NWT.Skirmisher@gmail.com. Regional commander is ewalt1855@gmail.com.
Use a tunafish can rather than putting a sharp edge on the bottom a green beans can.
Great idea, thanks!
I like that sizing press. The only bullet I need to size is the Smith, but my current system is clumsy, so I think I'll look into this.
I'm a fan of nose-first sizing dies. The bullet self-aligns with the bore and they are fast to operate.
Thank you for another great video. I shoot on the Tammany regiment. I have been sharing your videos with new members and recruits. Keep up the great work.
Thanks for sharing the videos! I'm on a real push this year to increase the visibility of our sport and increase the membership in our region!
I have been using beeswax and olive oil mixture for several years. It seems to create less fouling for me.
Can you use wax thread when making your choke string?
Any tough string will do. I would imagine waxed string would tend to stick to itself and the cartridge though.
@musketmatters2004 that's what I was thinking. Thank you
FWIW, this is pretty much how my father taught me to scrub out a musket, some 45 years ago.
S&W sold a cleaning gel that you put on your bristle brush. A pass or two down the barrel, then let it sit for 10-15 minutes (while you clean your carbine). A couple of cups of hot water, and then pump cleaning solution...but it's a whole lot easier. You could probably do this with dish soap.
Over the years there have been many products marketed for gun cleaning, some are great and others not so much. When you find what works, stick with it! Myself, I'm a pretty big fan of soapy water for cleaning and following up with Ballistol. I find the Ballistol finishes off any gunk left behind and oils the piece.
Another excellent and interesting video, thank you. I am always unsure about removing the barrel, I see so many conflicting opinions on that. I do want to try that "pumping" cleaning method, though. And the method of cleaning the ramrod is brilliant--I will definitely be using that.
I have teammates who never unship their barrels from their guns for cleaning. The logic is, every time you remove it and put it back you may be altering the way the gun shoots. Almost all of my competition guns are glass bedded, so my barrel marries back to the stock very consistently, so I don't worry about that so much. I will be doing another video shortly on cleaning without disassembling the musket.
Great video Sir
Thanks!
Hi Spiller&Burr.36 Pietta SPB36 How to unscrew the barrel and install a new one?? Regards Artur Poland
I was basically same way. I do not have an air compresser. I use a hair dryer and let the hear get rid of any moisture. I also use gun oil on all metal. In the barrel I use BP lube.
What brand is your pistol? Do you prefer uberti or pietta? It seems about 50 50 between what people recommend. I see more people saying ubertis fit and finish is better but i don't really care about that i just want the gun to work and last. I figured since you shoot in competition ie shoot yours alot you would have better insight/ talk to people who shoot theres alot. Only care about the 1858 or new model army because thats what i want to buy
Most of my revolvers are Pietta. I'm not sure I have ever bought a new Uberti, though I own a couple. My suspicion is that that years ago there may have been a quality difference, but today the Piettas have near-perfect fit and finish to my eye. The Pietta in the video is my competition gun and is very accurate. Newer Pietta 1858s come with a dovetail front sight, as you can see above. This is useful for adjusting windage if needed. I would not hesitate to buy another Pietta.
@musketmatters2004 awesome thanks for the reply man. I was leaning towards pietta and you reinforced that. Do you have any experience with the target models? I'm a good shot and if the adjustable rear sight can help even a little but I wouldn't mind spending a little more for it.
@@trevorgray4852 I do not. The target model's sights are not historically correct and so they are not approved for N-SSA competition. So, I don't own any.
Both. Both pietta and uberti are good. Just so you know they are both owned by beretta. They are both in the same town in italy. Only a few meters apart from each other. So in essence they are the same company.
I had a friend who claimed that he threw his brace of Colts in the dishwasher. IIRC, he was a bachelor. 😁
I had a friend who also said he used his dishwasher. I thought he was crazy, but maybe it works.
@robertrobert7924 Was he also single? Personally, I'd worry about lead poisoning.
@@marksprague1280 No he was married to a sensible wife.
@robertrobert7924 And no doubt he commuted on a unicorn. 😁
I have always cleaned my pistols this way. compressed air 100psi and WD40 after the wash. 20 years on the same gun, never had an issue. I DONT use original BP, I use Pyrodex powder. cleans up WAY easier and you can run a ton of balls through it before it starts to jam up. I'm not out there to clean my gun after 6 shots....I'm out there to shoot the darn thing, LOL
How about using an ultrasonic cleaner?
I have heard of people doing this but I have not tried it myself.
What size template would I need for a 50 cal.
You would have to create one from scratch. The Enfield was .58.
Yeah...i have a 58. I once used a spray cleaner...it didn't work. The cyl pin hung up. I messed up by tappiing on the front of the rod,i should have used a punch under the hammer. When i opened it up there was rust. I got it in time. This last time shooting i used water. Also wd40 is water displacement. I dont use wd on finish as it is acidic . Point is be careful.
I don’t do this. If you use lard to lube all you gotta do it wipe it down. Cleaning it too much will prevent it from getting a nice patina over time.
Your springs will break soon.
It's a matter of personal preference. I myself own a revolver that I artificially aged to look old. But in old times they looked brand new, and I'm sure people took care of them as best they could.
@@musketmatters2004 it basically seasons the metal over time to a non stick just like seasoning a cast iron skillet. Becomes easier over time to clean quick
Without cleaning with hot water that evaporates quickly, I imagine a fan or air compressor could be helpful to dry the water off.
Thank you. Very appreciated.
Great job dude..😉👍👍.. Just getting started. Very helpful...
That is exactly how I clean mine except I don't use compressed air to dry but use a hair dryer to heat the gun and cylinder until it is too hot to touch. I'm confident it is dry before replacing grips and trigger guard.
That will wreck the springs.
I've been told that it is insufficient cleaning. These warnings are without merit. I do never remove frame screws nor disassemble BP guns. Neither rifle, pistol, shotguns. I take the cylinder out and remove grips. Clean barrel and cylinder chambers. Clean whatever is reachable with wet toothbrush and pipe cleaners. Rinse good with hot water, slosh it around. Then pour alcohol into all parts that it will go into. Dry with hairdryer until it is too hot to touch. When cool, oil and I'm done. I do not believe or suspect the cun is not clean. For years I've been shooting that gun with no problems. We get these take completely apart suggestions from those obsessed with proof of cleaning.
@@michaelgibbs3011 You've doing it wrong, as you will learn. Newbies like to "think" they know better. You don't. You're outing yourself. Your ignorance is obvious. Stop lying.
@@michaelgibbs3011 LOL You're doing it wrong.
I agree; It's generally not necessary to fully disassemble a firearm for cleaning, and in fact the wear and tear of doing it can do more harm than good. I only do a "detail clean" about once a year on my guns.
So there's really no need to disassemble the whole thing I've had one sitting in storage for many years unfortunately these are the only handguns I can own I guess I can load it up now and keep it ready to rock and roll
I only do a full disassemble about once a year. Frankly, I think the wear and tear from disassembly and reassembly can be more harsh than from just using the firearm, especially if you are not careful and/or don't use good screwdrivers. It's a good idea to pull the nipples at least once a year and make sure you use anti-seize when you put them back in. This way you don't end up with stuck nipples. Dunk cleaning works great. The trick is getting it dry and that is where compressed air comes in. Do not get the idea to "bake" a wet revolver to try and dry it - this will result in extreme rusting.
@@musketmatters2004 boiling water balistol all usually works okay with my other stuff
Oh yeah get all that rust activated😂
As long as you thoroughly dry everything and follow up with a quality oil, rust is not an issue. I have no problems with rust on my guns.
@@musketmatters2004 I've never used water. Hops solvent only. High as well never had any rust issues.
Why remove the trigger guard
I like to remove the trigger guard for two reasons: First, it opens up access to flush water through the action. Second, it makes it easy to polish.
The tin cup for your shooting trash is genius! I’m going to add one and a bayonet to use as a rod holder to my musket range kit.
Yeah old knees don't like fishing around on the ground for things! The tin cup is a big help! :)
Good video I always just JB weld a good quality correct diameter steel nail, cut and file to sight in at 25 yards, a good steel nail won’t ever really get damaged and I have never had to replace a steel nail due to damage unlike brass.
Great idea to use a nail! I have also used German Silver. You can buy small pieces of such metals from www.onlinemetals.com
I used WD-40 to displace any moisture after cleaning.
Yeah. Thats what i used after hot water
I like to use a hair dryer, good hot air.
As he said elsewhere, hot air increases oxidation, and he has rusted metal quickly by doing so. Of course that may not happen to everyone. Just doesn’t seem necessary.
@@profile2047 Get them dry and grease them up. CLP with Break Free slick slick.
Have you considered adding a heat gun or hair dryer to your routine AFTER you use the compressed air? When I clean the locks on my Flintlock Rifles , I clean with soap , water and an old toothbrush and then dry the lock well with a hair dryer.
I would not try it, myself. At one time I made and sold "chainmail" armour. I used to clean it and then hang it up on a pole and blow dry it with a leaf blower. Worked great. One time I had the idea to put it in the oven and bake it dry. It came out bright orange, coated with rust. As with most chemical reactions, heat accelerates oxidation.
I detail clean once a year or so but I clean very similarly to this. Always remove and oil the threads on the cones.
This is a good idea. I have been taking them completely down and wiping every bit with canola oil, of all things. Seems to work well as a crud remover and basic protectant
Great video, I’ve been cleaning my cap & ball revolvers this way for decades. I only do one thing different. I spray 90% rubbing alcohol into the action after blowing out the water. The alcohol should dissipate any water that the air might have missed. It might be pointless, but gives me peace of mind. Thanks for the pointer on turning the screws backwards. I’ve never stripped one, but have never thought of doing that.
Fascinating. I was *extremely* skeptical until I saw you use the air compressor--I couldn't imagine how you were going to get the moisture out of all the "nooks and crannies." I really wish I had access to one of those.
Aerosol ballistol sprayed into the innards works well to prevent rust after hosing them out with water
Ballistol can be emulsionated with water, so when the latter evaporates the former will still be protecting those nooks and crannies without rust. Moose's milk is my Colt's best friend.
@@Bjornvetr I think Moose Milk is pretty universal at this point, and, if not, it should be.
@@Schlachtschule Of course! First I tried pouring it in an old sunscreen spray bottle I had laying around, after a thorough hot wash, but the spray button (actuator?) was so damn hard it got stuck every two squirts and I had to use pliers or a vise to get it out. Now I went for a fancy solution: a Floyd aftershave glass bottle, with an orange vaporizer, manual pump and such. 😂
You can also clean them in the bathroom sink ( If Phyllis is not home)
Wow that tip about the rubber thread protectors for revolver charges was fantastic! I immediately went and ordered some.
Nice!
Nice!
Thanks!
"A pulse" is a classic line...I just stumbled upon your channel - nice. Unfortunately, since the Chinese Flu prices are outrageous and dues are going up again.
Great video, you answered a lot of question I had reading through the N-SSA rules and regs. Nobody on my team shoots revolver however, I have both .36 and .44 Uberti Army and Navy which I will use to compete this year. This will be my second year, and I have not been up close to study revolver competition yet. Thanks. What region are you in?
Hi Keith! I'm in the Deep South Region.
What unit are you with?
Fourth Louisiana Delta Rifles.