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Thanks for your comment! Yeah I love my Rickenbackers, especially my 1984 4003! I'd probably consider letting go of my 360/12 eventually, but only if I could afford to replace it with one of the newer ones that more closely resemble the 60s versions. Chickenbackers are definitely fun to mess around with, there are certainly some good ones out there! I'm still open to getting more Chickenbackers in the future, especially copies of some of the really unique/expensive models that I could never obtain.

@@Control_Room 100%, I'd love one of those dinky looking 360s from the fifties before they'd settled on the shape, and I doubt very much that I'm going to be finding a real one any time soon haha. Would be great if they made one of those

Thanks for your comment! I also wish there was a more detailed tutorial available for the buzz bridge setup. I don't think it's possible to have both accurate intonation AND a convincing "buzz" sound at the same time. In my experience, you have to sacrifice intonation a little bit in order to get that sitar-sound to be consistent across all strings. I'm sure it probably varies depending on the guitar itself, the angle of the neck, radius of the fretboard, and the placement of the bridge posts. Since there's no way to really move the bridge saddle forward or backward, the bridge pretty much has to be installed exactly in the right spot to begin with. But I imagine since yours is a Coral reissue, you have the best chance of being able to set it up properly. It just takes a lot of trial and error. Thanks for watching! :)

I’ve noticed that it is quieter at full volume with a fresh set of batteries compared to plugged in. I think I may have noticed a little bit of distortion when using batteries too, but it has been a while since I last tried it with batteries. I will double check though. :)

@ thank you very much for yr reply.I want to buy one and take it busking where no mains,but I have a good amp.thanx again

You’re welcome! I imagine that it begins to distort as the batteries start to drain. If I remember correctly, it goes through batteries fairly quickly too so you’d want to make sure you take plenty of extra batteries with you. A good solution might be if you bring a larger battery that you can plug into the DC input, like one of those rechargeable car jump starters that have a built in outlet, or maybe one of those cell phone power banks with an adapter.

@ Thanx sooo much for info .merry xmas

Merry Christmas to you too! :)

It's so that you have a reliable switch to switch on the acoustic piano sound instead of having to force the rotary switch to be stuck between two positions. (Which is unreliable because if it flops over to either direction during a performance the sound will switch)

Because I have no cat!

Fair enough! lol

Thanks for your comment! Hmm, that’s interesting. If done correctly, having the knob on the toy setting while the additional switch is turned off should give you the same result when powering up that you would get with the usual in-between method.

Very cool! I've always been curious to try that Kauffman vibrola. I have a Ric 360/12 and a 4003 as well.

@@Control_Room Nice..! I had a 1968 360/12 that was stolen...ouch, but insurance came through at least👍

Thanks! Yes, I'll be working on some better captures in the near future. :)

Thanks for your question! In theory, this bridge could be modified to accommodate 12 strings, but it probably wouldn’t work very well. You could slot the bridge for 12 strings but the intonation would be impossible to dial in, and it would be much harder to set the bridge “buzzing” correctly across all strings. It would be very interesting though!

Thanks for your comment! Yes, the acoustic piano will be accessed by the toy piano position. So if you turn the knob to the toy piano position and then power up the keyboard, you will default to the acoustic piano sound.

Watched the link to the other Video several times. My take is if the keyboard is off and turned on with toy piano selected it will be the Acoustic Piano sound. When you choose a different a sound you will have to turn off and on with the toy piano selected to resume Acoustic Piano sound.

@@Control_Room You’re welcome for inquiry and Thank you for the quick response.

That’s exactly right. So it’s still slightly inconvenient but it’s still better than having to force the rotary switch to stay in between positions. I think it’s more consistently repeatable this way, and less wear on the switch.

@@Control_Room Agreed 😎

Thanks! I like the Oracle too, I'd love to have one eventually.

You might be able to find those parts online, or you may have better luck taking the parts from another Speed King pedal if you find an old one for cheap.

Sorry for the late reply! The caps can be tapped in with a nylon coated dead-blow hammer, or any hammer if you don’t mind scuffing the material.

Thanks for your question! It’s difficult to get it sounding just-right, but you might have some luck adjusting the bridge a little bit. The inconsistency seems to be inherent to the design, your guitar is not defective. It just takes a lot of tweaking and adjusting to get it sounding close to how you want it to sound. I’ve found that I could get it sounding more “buzzy” but then the intonation would be compromised. Keep in mind, the popular songs of the 60s and 70s that feature that guitar didn’t have perfectly tuned/setup instruments anyway. I guess these sitar guitars are more about the gimmick of the unique sound than about getting an accurate sitar sound out of a guitar that stays in tune. I hope my two-cents are helpful! :)

Thanks! Luckily, I had two truss rod covers to work with so I made all my mistakes on the first one and did a better job on the second one, haha. These truss rod covers had the logo printed on the front while the back had a flakey gold paint. Removing the original paint on the first one with lacquer thinner, I was careful not to get any on the logo-side, but apparently not careful enough. One little drop of lacquer thinner and part of the logo began to smudge. Needless to say, I was much more careful with the second truss rod cover. I think what I ended up doing was lightly soaking a paper towel with thinner and laying the back side of the truss rod cover flat on top of the paper towel for a few minutes. Removing the gold paint is definitely the easy part, it just melts away. Just go slowly and do it little by little, better to have it take a long time than to rush and smudge the logo like I did! After it's been sitting on the lacquer-soaked paper towel, pick the truss rod cover up by the edges like an LP record without tilting it and transfer it onto a dry paper towel. Then you can move it from side to side against the paper towel to gently wipe off the paint. I think the main thing is to keep your hands dry between each step. I think my mistake was accidentally getting a little bit of lacquer thinner on my thumb and handling the other side. Good luck!

Oh, and if all of the gold paint doesn't come off in one try, you can always revisit the stubborn areas with a cotton swab and some more lacquer thinner, or just repeat the soaking process. :)

@@Control_Room Ahh. That makes sense, it seems like you got really lucky with your clone as the gold on my truss rod cover is painted on the front lol. I’ll have to give that a very careful try (probably with precise masking tape and a qtip) and if that doesn’t work, somehow find a stencil or just have a blank one for now haha! Thank you! Your clone build is really easy to follow and looks great!

Thanks, I really appreciate that! In your case since it's painted on the front, it might be better to just strip all the paint, repaint the back, and make a water-slide decal for the front. Or if you don't want to mess it up, you could always leave it as is until you find a reasonably priced replacement somewhere.

Thanks! I got them on ebay a long time ago. If you search "panther patrol patch," you might be able to find some pretty cheap! :)

no ffs 😂

Thanks for your question! I didn’t widen any of my string slots, the idea is to raise the buzz bridge up to the same height of your old bridge so the strings shouldn’t be any lower, but I know the buzz bridge is a bit tricky to get it adjusted just right for that buzz sound.

@@Control_Room do your strings lie flat along the bridge, or make contact at the front edge?

The back edge toward the tailpiece is equivalent to the saddles of a traditional bridge, and you raise the front of the bridge so that it just barely contacts the strings to achieve the buzzing sitar effect. You kind of have to play around with both adjustments until you find a sweet spot that works for you. I’ve found that you might have to sacrifice intonation to get the buzz sounding right.

Well spotted!

Thanks for your comment!

Thanks for your question! I think RUclips creators avoid giving out seller names to avoid being involved in any legal trouble that may come with "counterfeit" guitars and suggesting that people go and buy them. Also, a lot of those seller accounts disappear after a while and they make new accounts so it's sometimes hard to keep track and identify who is a legitimate seller and who is a scammer. As far as 12 string Rick copies, I personally have never dealt with any Rickenbacker 12 string copies so I don't know who makes good ones or who makes bad ones. The only 12 string I have is a genuine Rickenbacker 360/12. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful. I recommend looking for sellers whos' accounts have been active for many years with a large number of sales and positive feedback. Don't buy from a new seller who has no history of sales or reviews on their page.

Absolutely, I agree. Thanks for watching!

Thanks! It's been so long, I actually don't remember what values I chose for the potentiometers or tone capacitor. In stead of wiring it the way John Lennon's would have been, I wired the middle pickup to its own volume pot so I can have any pickup combination, and then I just have one master tone pot. The pickups that came with this guitar were Chinese humbuckers made to look like toaster pickups, but I replaced them with a set of Chinese Alnico single coil toaster look-alike pickups, and I also replaced the toaster covers with much shallower ones. I had also ordered a pair of genuine RIC toasters, but I ended up putting them in my RIC 360/12. Thanks for watching! :)

Thank you! 🙂

He insists on inspecting every project I work on! Lol

Thanks, same to you!

I was definitely guilty of pronouncing it wrong for many years, but I eventually learned. 🙂

Thanks for your comment, I really appreciate it! I’ll update the video description and add a link to a written tutorial with photos I found a while back in case it’s easier to follow than my video. :)

I just updated the description. I couldn't find the written tutorial I was referring to, but I did add a link to another video tutorial by someone else.

Thanks, I really appreciate that! I'm actually in the middle of typing up what I'm going to say in my last video for this year, and this comment gave me a boost! I started chasing Alex Lifeson's tone and gear when I was in my early teens, with a Fender Champion 100 modeling amp, an MXR Distortion +, any chorus I could get my hands on, and a Squier Affinity Strat that I installed a Bill & Becky Lawrence L500L in. I've come a long way and picked up a lot of knowledge over the years that I'm excited to share! There's still a surprising amount of misinformation in the forums and all of the more mainstream resources. I now have both a Loft 440 and a Loft 450 to compare in a future video. Alex has used both at different times, but ultimately favored the 440. I never did get my TC 1210s repaired, that's still on my to-do list when I can afford it. Thanks for watching!

Not at all, as far as I know. The acoustic piano sound seems to be the default initialized patch when the rotary switch has nothing selected.

That secret sound was put there by Yamaha! Is a sound more. There is a way to do it without modifying anything. With the CP off, the sound selector is placed between any two sounds, without selecting any. The CP is turned on. And you already have an acoustic piano. If you turn the dial and select a sound, the piano is removed and the selected sound appears.

Nice!

That's definitely possible, there are probably a couple of ways to do something like that. I myself would actually be interested in trying to do that as well. I think it'd be cool to build a vintage-looking Rhodes or Wurlitzer style chassis with a 73/88 key MIDI controller and mount the Reface electronics inside.

@@Control_Room I Ve used to have this reface and I love it.. But always bothered me the little keys.. A good semi-weight keyboard can be a good "portable" Rhodes... after seeing your video.. made me think about getting it again lol .. cheers!

@@cristiancornejo Thanks for watching! :)

From what you know, would it be possible to have the aux input routed to the effects section, with an easy two position switch?

Thanks! I guess my sloppy playing is good for something after all 🤣.

Yes, I notice that too.

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for your question! No, it came with very cheap, generic knobs. I bought the oven style knobs on Reverb.com.

Thanks for your comment! Yes, I used an anchor tailpiece similar to what they used on the Gibson EDS-1275 double-neck guitars. I used an "ATP-6" tailpiece I found on Reverb. It's screwed directly to the body surface with 3 screws.

I love the appearance of the maple glo C58 guitars!

I can't believe Lennon had his beautiful 58 325 painted black. But, he was known for that guitar, so I reckon it's fine.. I wouldn't have done it!