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You messed up something in the installation and likely something is unplugged within the circuit board, check the connections by unscrewing the 4 bolts on the side and bottom. My cousin had the exact same problem, a connector was disconnected. GL

@@SLPSRocks I have the same issue, but I've checked the circuit board with everything connected. What ends up happening is that instead of moving closer to the print bed, the nozzle just moves upwards, immediately putting it out of reach of the sensor. I don't know why it's messed up like this.

@@everythingrandom1381 Thats very strange. I seen a newbie have this same problem, his setup had a whole bunch of things wrong with it and the circuit board connection was the culprit. You need to trace every where and make sure there is continuity. I would take a multimeter and test continuity on every 16 wire that leads to the extruder from the connector that attaches to the circuit board. Ofc you can always just return it on amazon and get another printer to exchange. Happy hunting

@@everythingrandom1381 when it only moves up it means the signal wire is not connected from the ABL so it is reading open. This is a safety feature to prevent the nozzle driving into the bed if the ABL (or Z-limit switch on other models) is disconnected. This has happened quite a lot on Reddit for the X3/S3 and may be due to the ABL cable being too tight so that has pulled a wire inside the sensor. Some have said pulling the the cable though the harness to give a bit more slack at the sensor on the X3 can fix it but as the S3 has a tool-head board the you can't do the same thing. It is also has another point of failure as these inductive sensors need 24v to work and this needs to be isolated from the motherboard so it uses an opto-isolator on a converter board to do this. This board is also taps in to 24v from the hotend fan terminal. This is something that needs someone with one of these machines with a faulty sensor, and has the ability and knowledge to dissect it to confirm the problem. It is most likely a manufacturing defect as there are too many reports to be a one off fault.

Hi mine was the same when going for first print about half an hour ago. No Z limit switch so most YT content doesn't help you. As far as I could tell only solution was Z offset, which on mine is now -3.13 to provide noticeable friction on a sheet of paper. Once that was set, first print success.

@@NickSeee okay sounds like you got it to work but I had to return it to Amazon because of the machine not being able to push out any filament because of the exstuder!

Sorry to hear that Lee

@@NickSeee yea I was hoping that it was going to be like my longer lk5 pro because that is a clone of the cr10 and this one is the clone of the ender 3 but it failed me!

There are plenty of beginner 3D printer videos on RUclips. This is not a complete beginner printer You can pretend it’s an Ender 3 or CR-10. Watch some older 3D printer videos and then you’ll build the foundation for this 3D printer

@@arnobashtar6707 thank you for your info . Lol like I said it's all new to me ! I hate to return it and get a refund if I can figure out how to use it without a computer but ill figure it out

If you unscrew the box from the bottom you might be able to obtain a little more slack on the ribbon cable and route it through the side. Unfortunately I don't have any suggestions since I had to lengthen my cable and resolder ever single individual cable. But I watched another RUclipsr and they were the ones to suggest a side mount, I think they even created a 3D printed guide for the cable thats attached to the X gantry. As long as it's not getting tugged from the movement of the Y or Z axis it should be fine.

@@SLPSRocks Thank you for the reply. Even though I haven't been able to get a print yet, because my bed is so much lower than the nozzle, the extruder was low enough where the cable was being rammed into by the bed, going back and forward. I currently have had the cable routed from the back, because of the length shortcoming. I would not have noticed that colliding between the bed and the cable, if I had not seen your video. I tried manually leveling the S3 by setting it to home, then disabling the stepper motors, but never could get the bed close enough to the nozzle to level it at that height. Do you have a link to a manual leveling, for the S3? I've seen how to do it with a v2, but the S3 doesn't have a z 'stop' , so what I watched doesn't seem to apply to the S3..

@@SLPSRocks Yes, that sounds like it might do the trick. While I've been trying to get the bed close enough to the nozzle to then be able to do a manual level, I noticed the ribbon cable touching the shaft of the Z Axis, when the machine is checking the auto levels, of the front of the bed. If I can ever get the nozzle close enough, to the bed and get a print, I will first work on some sort of barrier, that attaches to the x gantry.

Already lost faith with AliExpress. AliExpress will make it all better with a dollar coupon.....how wonderful after waiting weeks just to get ripped off.

you can pay 10 times more for the same stuff at your local store if you don't like aliexpress,

@@InternetExplorer-s9g Not true, many other sites sell cheap drones and are quality checked before being shipped. A liar is a liar is a liar and always a liar, find a different seller or site to buy from.

Yes I got mine for $10 (including tax/shipping). As long as you ignore all the lies in advertising, it's pretty nice toy. And even if you lose it or break it it's not a big deal.

The offset is set to 0; it came that way. The z access is also set to 0 in the move area of the controls. I had heard that the v1 and v2 Z offset, in the controls, of the machine did not function, is that still true? I'm wondering if my machine is broken, that's why I ask. I tried to lower my Z offset, using the offset Z built in the control area. After auto leveling I went to -.5, and after pressing the know, then even going "back", the Z axis never changed. I even tried down to -2, and still, no movement.

Not at all the case. My dispute video was rejected by AE. Made several attempts to explain the situation, they sided completely with the seller and didn't even give a partial refund. I found this particularly strange, they closed the dispute very quickly. It made me quite angry, but I honestly upload videos here to help folks. This video was probably the undoing of the drone scam operation of that seller and others on AE lol, I have seen fewer fake toy drones listed on there and its only been three months.

Honestly, I have tried several drones now and all the drones under 300$ are sort of garbage, way too stressful to fly and their video is ugly. For hobby flying, I would recommend you get a drone with at least a 1KM-3km transmission range, 2.7-4k resolution and with a Gimbal ideally. Always buy a drone that can capture footage on a microSD, never buy a drone if it doesn't have a SD card. Holystone HS720R is a neat one I test flown recently with super smooth footage, I think the Holystone drones dominate the international market and are cheaper than the competition, but they too have quality control problems and are known to have battery charging issues from time to time. luckily their customer service is decent. If you must get a sub250 drone for legal regulations in your area, get a potensic atom or a DJI drone. They cost more but honestly in the long run you will thank yourself when you fly the drone and return it in once piece without crashing it into someone's property. If you asked me what I would do, I would save up for a sub250 drone because the laws here are a son of a beech.

Cura. Always use Cura. Never use Voxemaker or some other gibberish software.

Lol I think the attitude regarding drones in Europe is slightly different from North America. I hear real drones in Europe are quite a bit more expensive than they are here. Still, I am new to the hobby so I didn't know what to expect, but normally you can dispute something like this if it arrives as not as described. In this situation AliExpress solidly sided with the seller and didn't refund me. Hope that proves your point 😂

@@SLPSRocks yeah they thought was what he received worth what he paid, you got $20 for $20, not 300 for 20, we can all dream

If it was made in the west I am pretty sure it will cost over 150$ as it is 😂😂😂😂😂… so yea . 23 euros …. It’s cheaper then a dinner at ms Donald’s 🤡🤡🤡🤡

It annoys me seeing people who normalise scams “what did you expect for $X”. I expect getting what was listed mate. Not everyones an expert on the things they purchase or knows the market value of the parts, to gouge the feasability of the list price to spot a scam. Not to mention same shit is sold in the west with a 500% markups since actual parts tend to be dirt cheap.

​@@SLPSRockschinese websites are really bad and infamous with regard to bait and switch. You should know that about these websites before purchasing anything. For example, it's common to advertise expensive item like a whole sewer camera for $80 and when you click on the item, you actually are only buying a small replacement part for that price. You can easily get tricked. Same goes for drones - with these cheap drones, you never get what's advertised and you have to be cognizant of that. I bought multiple of these cheap drones and knew what I was getting, so I am pretty satisfied with my purchase, which I intend to use mainly for hacking and spare parts for my better drones (Eachine E58/E520S) and letting my daughter destroy it while having fun.

No have not seen that before in mine, but I have seen someone else have issues with the Auto homing which was caused by an unplugged connector in the hub around the motherboard. You most likely have an issue with the connections somewhere. If so, I wouldn't be surprised that the other features too don't work. I would start by checking that the red light is on for the optical sensor around the print head. check that you can move the axis all freely one at a time (including the extruder) Also would be a good idea to reset configurations for the printer and seeing if that fixes the problem. Open the motherboard of the printer by unscrewing the two side casing bolts at the front left of the frame. Next there are 4 screws at the bottom. Unscrew them to access the motherboard. Ensure all the connections and connectors there too are intact. If you still have an issue, start tracing the wires with a multimeter and check for continuity by using either a multimeter with sharp pointed tips or another pin or narrow metal conductive material. You will take continuity readings for all the wires in the ribbon cable. If the internal break is in the ribbon cable, you can also sometimes "fix" these temporarily by massaging the ribbon cable with your fingers, flexing it in different directions. Try doing that and pressing autolevel. Good luck, comment back if you figure it out... sounds like you have a fun repair on your hands

Oh and the ribbon cable does have a tendency to get on the track of the v wheels. And the printer runs right over it destroying it lol

I agree it really is annoying to use, full of flaws but I haven't seen anything like it for the price point.

@@SLPSRocks good review though! Not tryna shoot it down by any means

@@bradenhenderson1332 Thanks! No I am not concerned about that. Your opinion matters and this video is for the people! So as long as its helpful discussion I'm all for it

It was 50 CAD or 36 USD... Also, they used to say the same about TVs and Laptops from 1990-2010, Today the reality is that a big screen TV costs half to a fifth of what it used to cost. So don't give me that crap about what did you expect. Lots of people get scammed. I wasn't expecting all the features to be there but at least one or two... but none of them? Are you kidding. It was just a long list of lies on that listing. I never saw that level of scam before from AE. Not the only fake drone ad thats out there currently. It was time to alert the people.

Yes these cheap drones are meant a s toy. But I use my Eachine e58 as a tool more than a toy. Since E58 has nice 120 deg wide angle camera and DVR as well, I can use it to fly over my house and take video to check condition of gutters, roof etc.

Seriously don't buy it, it stopped working after 2 weeks I kept using it. The transmission got worse and worse and eventually it crashed and broke. Don't waste your money unless you just want to fly it around the house like a toy chopper

The weight is 138 grams. Probably a dead giveaway in retrospect, but any real drone would use up the full 249 grams as it's quite challenging (and expensive) to get it all under 250.

@@SLPSRocks thank you!

I'll take that as a compliment mate, happy DIYing, cheers

Thanks for the kind words, motivates me to make some more videos!

U must calibrate the drone

@@Rankotivi ...There is no amount of calibration that keeps this particular drone stable

I tried the drone on several different phones including the newer Samsung and iPhones. The same result.

These type of review videos are very useful to prevent people falling for scams/traps! Thank you to the uploader.

@@chazgo it's seems like a good toy for 20 bucks