- Видео 16
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Klinik RC
Добавлен 17 мар 2020
www.Klinikrc.com
Видео
Klinik RC Sparko F8 F8e Buggy Kit, Setup, Option and Upgrade Parts We Use Racing
Просмотров 2,3 тыс.10 месяцев назад
Klinik RC Sparko F8 F8e Buggy Kit, Setup, Option and Upgrade Parts We Use Racing
Klinik RC How to make your clutch bearings last longer | nitro 1/8 tips and tricks
Просмотров 40311 месяцев назад
Klinik RC How to make your clutch bearings last longer | nitro 1/8 tips and tricks
Klinik RC Racetec Engine Sneak Peak Promo Video. Coming soon!!!
Просмотров 407Год назад
Klinik RC Racetec Engine Sneak Peak Promo Video. Coming soon!!!
Klinik RC Simple adjustments to ensure smooth suspension action and no binding
Просмотров 1,3 тыс.Год назад
Klinik RC Simple adjustments to ensure smooth suspension action and no binding
Klinik RC Racetec RC Nitro Engine Compression Gauge Turbo Glow Plug
Просмотров 4,2 тыс.2 года назад
Klinik RC Racetec RC Nitro Engine Compression Gauge Turbo Glow Plug
Matrix Automatic 1/8 1/10 RC Racing Tire Balancer!!! Klinik RC
Просмотров 3,7 тыс.2 года назад
Matrix Automatic 1/8 1/10 RC Racing Tire Balancer!!! Klinik RC
Klinik RC Tech Tip Tuesday - How to replace tire foam inserts / Schumacher hub sleeve install
Просмотров 2,5 тыс.3 года назад
Part 1 - An easy and effective way to replace foam inserts that's virtually undetectable. Part 2 - How to install the Klinik RC hinge pin sleeves in Schumacher front and rear hubs. Dramatically increase life and precision of the stock plastic parts.
Klinik RC Modern LIHV Stock spec blinky 13.5 17.5 battery cycling lipo lihv LRP graphene batteries
Просмотров 7 тыс.3 года назад
Klinik RC Modern LIHV Stock spec blinky 13.5 17.5 battery cycling lipo lihv LRP graphene batteries
Klinik RC S1E5 RC hacks tricks setup tips
Просмотров 8 тыс.4 года назад
Episode 5 consists of some tricks and basic setup info.
Klinik RC NRC Projects rc10 vintage 1/24 scale replica
Просмотров 4 тыс.4 года назад
Klinik RC NRC Projects rc10 vintage 1/24 scale replica
Klinik RC S1E4 How to build a PERFECT gear diff!! No leaks!!
Просмотров 3,8 тыс.4 года назад
Klinik RC S1E4 How to build a PERFECT gear diff!! No leaks!!
Klinik RC S1E3 How to build PERFECT Shocks!!
Просмотров 1,4 тыс.4 года назад
Klinik RC S1E3 How to build PERFECT Shocks!!
Klinik RC S1E2 How to build a PERFECT Ball Diff!!
Просмотров 4,3 тыс.4 года назад
How to build the perfect ball diff!
How often do you rebuild ball diff?
@@americantaxpayer when it begins to feel rough. You want smooth action out of the diff to operate correctly and perform its best
You should do more video's like this. Great info explained very well, thank you. Now I have to look for that tool to remove stripped screws... Does it have a name I should look for?
@@Slatanicmushroom thank you!! Spring loaded or automatic center punch 🤙
I bought a sparko f8e , very good so far. Very fast buggy as well.
I gotta try this. I devour clutch bearings. Bought the fancy TKO bearing 10 packs. No better. Tried taking Avid Bearing's advice to blow out the grease with an air compressor for 5 seconds on both sides of both bearings before installing a set of metal shielded bearings (from ProTek I think?), and they still failed within 40 min of running at the track. Just bought the fancy Avid bearing 10 packs and installed a pair, about to run them tonight. It’s without a doubt the most frequent thing that breaks on my buggy, by a country mile. And as if a 25+ minute repair wasn’t bad enough, sometimes it’ll ruin the $30 center diff gear on its way out.
@@cbh148 oh wow that is excessive! Give this a try, if no better send us some pics and we can help diagnose the problem 🤙
@@klinikrc3823 Excellent, thanks for the help. Also, edited my post as I got mixed up -- I haven't run the Avid's yet, but I installed some 2 days ago and will be running them tonight. I used the air compressor on both Avid bearings before installing them per the instruction on the Avid website's clutch bearing page, but perhaps I should remove the engine to clean that inner clutch bell bearing with some contact cleaner beforehand if the air compressor isn't enough.
@@klinikrc3823Alright it’s been almost a month since my last comment. I got one of those bearing cleaner containers from PowerHobby and I used automotive brake cleaner since it ought to be the same as contact cleaner for this purpose. So far, so good. I’ve had about 4 practice days at the track, so maybe half a gallon. I had a clutch bell get chewed up yesterday and I replaced it. The inner bearing’s shields fell off, but the balls were still there and it still spun smoothly. Strangely, the outer bearing (which I didn’t remove grease from) still visibly looked fine with both metal shields still in place, but it was so gritty that it felt not far away from locking up, but the bell was still being held concentric to the crankshaft.
I put in new bearings and am just starting a new gallon jug of fuel, so I ought to be more accurate about how much fuel I get run on these bearings before something fails. Nevertheless, getting 4 practice sessions at the track on a set of clutch bell bearings was basically unheard of for me prior to doing this. Really appreciate the advice!!
@@cbh148 what caused the bell to get chewed up?
That charger doesn't have a LiHV mode compared to newer chargers. How did you set that up for 40amp charging then so the cutoff voltage, etc was correct?
where can we purchase the tool?
have you done any compression test while at say 200 degrees? Im curious to see what a cold compression test is vs 200 degrees for different engines. For instance , is the delta for a Novarossi vs OS cold vs Warm the same ? I just got mine in the mail today and I did a handful of engines cold and I'm curious how running temps vary compression for different engine manufactures.
Cold vs warm is a good way to test what condition your pinch and piston to liner seal is in. These types of tests are the purpose of the gauge. Get a baseline for your engines at your elevation and air density and compare that long term. Compression ratio across brands will be very close. They’re designed to all run the same fuel and relatively same design of glow plug, so there won’t be much of a difference in overall ratio.
@@klinikrc3823 Thanks the response . Full Trigger !
Hello Klinik. I have the droop guage but never used it have always used shock length. I run a Tekno EB48 2.1 & ET but Klinik droop guage doesn't even touch both hubs when set to setup sheet length. Any help would be great 👍🏼
Like we mention in the video that is the problem with using shock length. If you set your droop to the recommended setting and try it, I’m sure you’ll see better performance and feel in your cars 👍
Hi I just got this droop gauge. Awesome product, but I'm alittle confused. If my axle -6 what is my actual droop number? is my droop 130mm? Do I take 36mm -6mm And add 100? =130mm
@@troyweber5541 the droop gauge measurement will be consistent vs shock length. As explained in the video, your shock length can be the same but used in different positions and component wear can greatly affect actual droop. The gauge is the end all of the droop in relation to the chassis (the most important factor) find the droop you like and maintain with the gauge regardless of shock length and you’ll have better results 👍
@@klinikrc3823 gotcha. Thanks for the reply
Humm.. didnt know schumacher invented the ball diff… doesnt really mean its the “best” IMO, but, i see what your getting at…. As long as the diff “works” i would think any difference in greases would be more of a “feel” kind of think, not “better or worse”… like, 35 shock oil isnt better than 30… or worse….
Ps, probably the best diff video… i like your style.
Love your videos mate! Always awesome advice!
So do they not run?
They sure do. Look up nrc projects on Facebook and they have everything listed
I really learned some things from your video. Great job! Im starting No Prep, and it looks like the i charger is the one to have. But cycling the batteries at high amps shorten the lifespan if the batteries? Also will I see a big difference in running a two gear diff in my No Prep car? Thanks. .
Thank you!!! It won’t shorten the lifespan of good batteries. Cheap ones might not like it too much. Watch the IR’s
Tony, if ordering from Klinik, do the parts come from overseas or in the US?
We have products made all over the world as well as our own in house manufacturing.
Thanks Tony great job. It’s refreshing to not only hear what someone is running, but also what effect it has on the buggy. So thanks for that.
I make very boring videos lol try to make up for it with data 😝
Comprehensive Klinik👌🏻
I haven't heard of this brand ?
Oh yes, new brand since mid 2023. Been winning and finishing on podiums for the last few months in America 👍🏁
Is it possible to balance 1/8 truggy tires as well?
Do you do anything with manually ballancing the packs?
What do you mean?
If you dont mind me asking, how much fuel do you think you get through a set of clutch bearings? I am roughly 1/4 to 1/2 gallon maybeee...
I’m confident up to a gallon then I change. Unless just practice and I will run for longer.
Well that’s interesting. I’ve never had any issues with mine but I’ve also never heard of contaminating the clutch. I’ll keep in it mind next time I’m working on mine
Yeah, If you don’t degrease the inner bearing it will go through the entire clutch and cause slipping, glazing and require you to go back in and clean it out.
Thanks for the tips nice video 👍
Thanks!!
What's up Tony 😁
Hey buddy!!!
Is the amp rate for charging, Is that good for 1-6s lipos?
Does it matter if you measure with filter on or out ? Also, does the measure affected if the carburetor is fully opened or fully closed ?
No difference in any of those scenarios 👍 biggest variable is temperature. Always measure near the same temperature when possible.
I think the discharge is what’s crucial. My theory is fast charging isn’t what makes the difference
I'm looking for one if anyone has one to sell please let me know any version of the NRC-32 the rc10 carbon chassis or gold pan or the yokomo kit built or new unbuilt thanks got lots of stuff to trade too
rear camber links can be shortened which has the same effective camber change as raising the outboard or lowering the inboard so there is more rear side grip available , but it comes at the cost of steering so if your pushing too much mid corner but need the rear grip high , run them short and add 1mm inboard spacer under the ball stud.
Raising and lowering the camber link is to change the roll centers to match the grip level. Camber change is a separate adjustment. Shorter rear camber links remove leverage and therefore side grip. It’s a completely different effect than raising the inner point
changing the roll centres is done solely to adjust camber change and thus the tyre contact area and thus grip . EVERYTHING we adjust is for the contact area and tyre behaviour , shorter links will simply give more rapid camber change through the suspension stroke which can be beneficial dependant on the roll centre and COG relationship . roll centres are more for controlling how the chassis COG effects the camber change and its effect on the tyre .@@klinikrc3823
Do guys in mod class do this as well?
I had no idea you had a RUclips channel tony….This was a great video!
Thank you!
Hi, I can't find a proper size foam to insert into 3.8 inch tyres, any tips or should i just buy a block of foam and trim them manually?
How many amps do you think your motor is drawing while running the car?
On the dyno a 17.5 will pull right around 100a
I have started using your method of charge/discharge and noticed that my race pack during discharge cycle heats up to around 135F. Is this normal going from storage to 3.3V/cell? After discharge, I let it cool to about 100F before charging at 40A. Curious to how you monitor and control heat during charge/discharge cycle. Cheers.
Yes. How are your IR? Batteries peak performance is usually around 100deg. I never let them cool between cycles. Immediately recharge. You don’t want them to sit below 7.4/7.6v low cutoff voltage for long or they could be damaged.
@@klinikrc3823 My IR is around 1.8 at charge end. I have been letting my packs cool from 135F+ to just under 104F after discharge cycle and before charge (as per Alexander Hagberg's suggestion). However, I think I may get better performance (lower IR?) if I just go immediately from discharge to charge even if my pack is over 135F. Any additional thoughts or suggestions? Cheers.
This is it Dave!
Great info. I'm curious to what your charge/discharge/cycle method is today as this video is now almost 3 years old. Any updates?
Same technic 👍
Great info. For clarity, at the beginning of a race day, how many times do you cycle a pack before running it in the car? And do you cycle between each run? Cheers.
Just once to wake them up. After that, racing will cycle them 👍
Doesn't appear to be a 1/10 off road adaptor?
Yes there is a 1/10 adapter 👍
Dam I wish I saw this video 2 months ago
I’ve got the smoothest ball diff I’ve ever had thanks to this video
Now I understand why people spend so much money on chargers
I’m actually considering throwing my 2wd buggy away because I can’t get any forward traction. Only corner traction. My wheeler is the only way to get forward bite
I don’t need any side grip. I need forward bite. I can’t hardly accelerate but I can fly through corners
You’re awesome man thak thank you for your videos
Best ball diff video I’ve seen, you taught me something! I didn’t know about sanding the rings so that will save lots of money. I’ll pick up your tool asap
This is very cool and I understand why people might want to have it to have a cool gadget. The thing about it is using the manual version is so simple too and a lot less expensive but I guess this might save some time.
I have a really small Irwin screw extractor. Works totally fine in my little electric screwdriver. Even quicker than the punch
Can you say how much of an effect you get just charging at 35 amp without the discharging cycle? So just the high amp charge in other words…
Not sure. We cycle up and down normally. I would guess half the benefit?
Does that 12mm adapter they have fit on this one?
Cool,thanx man.
Have you tried it on regular non turbo plug heads?
It will not work on the old style with the washer
😮 !!