![Gadgetman Bowen](/img/default-banner.jpg)
- Видео 52
- Просмотров 26 255
Gadgetman Bowen
США
Добавлен 26 авг 2013
Astrophotography and RC airplanes
GPS time issue with LX auto-GPS changing via ASCOM or NINIA resolved
There have been discussions about GPS fixes for some Meade telescopes in the LX200 group forum. I have not reviewed what that is about, maybe I should someday. I have, over many years, tried to improve the tracking ability, while using an equatorial wedge, for my Meade 10” LX200GPS. The telescope was purchased soon after 2000. I have been fortunate to get some really nice astrophotography pictures during my time out with the telescope but tracking and balance techniques on a wedge for this forked mount type scope has issues. Soon there may be an end to the adventure with the forked mounted telescope, due to age, unavailable parts, software upgrades that do not work and now the closure of ...
Просмотров: 51
Видео
CPWI and NINA setup/connection
Просмотров 1092 месяца назад
This video is basically for the JAA Club members who might want to do astrophotography using the Club’s equipment. I am still working on the mount and telescope settings but hope to have all working soon and Polar / Star aligned. However, there are others who might find the CPWI and NINA settings informative also. I found the issue on the slew controls. I went back and reviewed this video on se...
2024 Solar Eclipse (April 8, 2024) timelapse movie
Просмотров 4164 месяца назад
Telescope; Orion ShortTube 80mm, FL: 400 Filter: Baader AstroSolar DIY filter kit, 140mm size. Optical Density 5.0 Camera: Canon EOS 60Da Telescope mount: Sky-Watcher EQ6-R Pro Automation program; Set’n’C; robertnufer.ch/06_computing/setnc/setnc_page.htm We had clouds most of the morning and we all were hoping not to be clouded in. We got some open parts in the clouds during the start of the ec...
JAA Club mount issues
Просмотров 354 месяца назад
Seeking help on the issue with the Club's telescope mount. It is a Celestron Advanced GT probably purchase in the late 1980's.
3D printed DSLR telescope rig
Просмотров 1515 месяцев назад
Kind of redundant of my previous DIY DLSR 3D video, but I did make a change on the guide scope location with a new support bracket. I also have a picture of the 3D parts I designed at the end. Now the 3D parts are designed just for the metal support system that I still use on the camera. This video I have removed the DIY cooling system that fit in the LCD screen recess because I was testing for...
Mods to Mini Guide scope
Просмотров 185 месяцев назад
3D printed rings and dew shield for new mini guide scope. For the scope adjustment screws, in the rings, and ring base holding screw’s locations, I had my friend provide thicker plastic where the holes for screws are needed. I use a tap to make the treads after drilling a smaller hole into the plastic. You can force the cutting the threads with a screw, but a tap is better. It is good to have a...
DIY; DSLR 3D support mount & Cooler Device
Просмотров 2926 месяцев назад
I decided to change my DSLR mounting system from its old plywood platform to hopefully a better mounting system that is less weight and balances better. As for the cooling system in the video, I built it maybe 5 or 7 years ago before I got a dedicated cooled astrophotography camera. It was not long after I built the cooling system, that I got the dedicated cooled astrophotography camera. Since ...
Using a camera lens and a ZWO ASI camera
Просмотров 1,5 тыс.6 месяцев назад
After looking online at 3D printed items for Astrophotography, I decided to design my own system for my application. First, I had to draw in 2D, since I am an Ole school Architect, taking measurements and thinking about how things line up which took about 4-hours of measuring, drafting, dimensioning and thinking. Then I ventured into the 3D design drawing which took me about 3 hours. I have to ...
Miracle video
Просмотров 376 месяцев назад
Yesterday, Jan 20, 2024, was my wife's Birthday. She would have been 65-years old yesterday. I think I put this video I did on Facebook before but now it is not showing up. I will post again and hope it stays up. Maybe posting it on my RUclips Channel will help if I copy the RUclips Channel link to the Facebook post. The singer sent this song to my wife in 2012 as my wife was battling lung canc...
Dome Solar power & battery size questions
Просмотров 987 месяцев назад
Warning, this is a boring video I made. Please read the description as the narrative recording is similar to this written material. It is about the power needs for the Astronomy Club’s telescope and its accessories that are located in the Dome. The Dome requires manual slewing and tracking, it is not motorized. Would like some input from anyone regarding power needs. Ran some testing at the obs...
LX200GPS; GPS Time and Date Issue
Просмотров 1968 месяцев назад
Trying to follow instructions from the LX200GPS Group forum to correct issue with GPS time and date on my LX200GPS Meade telescope. Now I did not have this issue last year or maybe the year before. My telescope was worked on my Meade maybe three years ago when I sent them the telescope for mirror cleaning and something else that was not working. They also put in a new GPS at that time. I suspec...
C 5 SCT; Equatorial Wedge Modifications
Просмотров 658 месяцев назад
Modifications to an old equatorial wedge for an older Celestron C-5 SCT. Also, I made a device for an iPhone to use a sky map to aid in locating objects in the sky.
ZWO fan replacement & loose circuit board
Просмотров 1308 месяцев назад
ZWO fan issue; Scary issue when my ZWO294MC Pro camera started getting hot and the fan was not working. Even scarier that the circuit board was loose. There are a few videos on how to replace fans in a ZWO camera. I got the fan from a vendor here in the US. ZWO wanted $30 to ship to me from China. I was about to just order one online that matched the dimensions until I found the US vendor. I li...
Mr. Heater adding a fan hack
Просмотров 1,2 тыс.9 месяцев назад
A modification to my Mr. Heater better than my first modification. Mr. Heater is used mostly during my outings at the astronomy field. It can also be used for camping.
LX Training Polar setup
Просмотров 1,4 тыс.9 месяцев назад
LX200GPS - RA & DEC drive training while on an equatorial wedge and polar alignment setup.
DIY aids to help Polar alignment in Daytime
Просмотров 533Год назад
DIY aids to help Polar alignment in Daytime
LX 200GPS with a vertical imagining train balancing
Просмотров 241Год назад
LX 200GPS with a vertical imagining train balancing
AutoStar Hand Controller lighting issue - Fixed
Просмотров 906Год назад
AutoStar Hand Controller lighting issue - Fixed
AutoStar II Hand Controller repair, I hope
Просмотров 749Год назад
AutoStar II Hand Controller repair, I hope
LX200GPS mounting assistant setup using the wood bracket or brace I made.
Просмотров 69Год назад
LX200GPS mounting assistant setup using the wood bracket or brace I made.
Great video. I have a 10 LX 200 Classic and I use Nina, PHD guiding and Stellarium and everything works as it should including plate solving in Nina using ASTAP. I polar align using the Meade classic hand controller. When I choose a target in Stellarium, I can acquire the target in NINA and Nina will slew to the object and try to center the object. Nina controls the centering and it gets the target in view and attempts to center. At this point it seems like Nina makes corrections to center the object and moves the mount too much as if it is over correcting. Have you ever run into this situation and if so, how did you find a solution?
I just viewed this tutorial today. Thanks for taking the time to put it together. It seems that you do not use a reducer or flattener. How well do your final images come out (especially the edges)? If you're not using a full frame camera, this may not present as too much of an issue. Would you say that your setup is better geared for planetary imaging vs. deep sky? Also, I assume that using a reducer/flattener will increase the train length, seriously limiting where in the sky you could point. Thoughts? I have a good ZWO tech stack (including a full frame CMOS camera) that I'd like to try using my older 10" Meade (Peterson modified) LX200 SCT, but I'm not sure the effort would be worth it - especially without a reducer & flattener.
Some added information about Celestron’s encoders for the Advanced GT mount. Upon receiving some donated motors salvaged from another Advanced GT mount, it was found that at some point during the manufacturing of these Celestron Advanced GT mount models, Celestron changed encoders. The donated motors I received have US Digital encoders and the encoders on the mount were a little larger and no label of who manufactured them. It was later brought to my attention that the larger encoders cannot be found anymore. I changed out the motors to use the donated motors, having the US Digital label on them, since they were good motors and their encoders worked. I had ordered two replacement encoders and two cables/plug from US Digital prior to receiving the donated motors. Upon arrival of the new encoders, I discovered that the donated motor’s plug at the encoder matched exactly to the new cable/plug from US Digital. I had previously worked on those donated motors several years ago which had broken wires right at the plug. Even after fixing the broken wire the owner elected to seek used motors, which I installed, and he kept the removed motors. It was very nice to find that the new cable/plug would replace the fix I did. Wish I had known about US Digital’s cables back then because that would have saved the owner some money. All I had to do now was splice in the new cable’s wires to the existing wiring and plug into the donated motor’s encoder. The new encoders, not currently used, can be made to work on the older larger encode by just enlarging the base hole that slides over the collar of the motor’s shaft. You cannot see that in the video because the encoder’s disc is over the base. The collar is 10mm in diameter on the larger encoder and the US Digital hole that fits over the collar is smaller. I calculated that the US Digital hole, if enlarged to fit over the larger encoder’s collar, would only leave 0.62mm of thickness of its collar ring. It would work. The club now has spare encoders for the donated motors and two spare motors with the larger encoder, which has one encoder that is bad. Both motors are good.
My Autostar does thte same thing. The display goes out about a second after powering on, but then comes back bright after about 10 seconds with Align: Automatic. Does yours still work ok like that?
Yes, one hand controller still does it. I could be the ribbon to the LCD. Sometimes cleaning its ends, where it plugs into the screen or circuit board, might help. It also could be the screen going bad, but after it warms up it gets brighter. Do not know how long it will have life before searching for a new LCD screen. Some company is now making replacements. I saw something on a the LX forum about that. have not research it out. The RUclips guy “Turbo Talks Tech” has some videos on hand controller repair. You also might want to check the plugs in the scope's base circuit board and hand controller's plugs and those soldering connections.
@@gadgetmanbowen3081 I think its power or a capacitor. I just put a brand new LCD in the one that is exibiting the problem. I've had good luck jumpering power directly to the voltage regulators to bypass any internal trace issues. Thats my next step on this one.
@@bart1825 I have no idea how to do that. Maybe you could do a RUclips video on that for others to see. Many people have issues with the LCD screen and buttons keys.
Beautiful, thank you Jerry
Great timelapse!!👏👏👏
Thank you
nice, thanks
Your welcome
I like it! I think I would have made the frame a trapezoid with the broad side on the ground. My knees are fine but my back SUCKS :) I have a 10" Newtonian to wrestle with!
Thank you for viewing and commenting. I does help put my 10" onto the wedge, no bending down except to get it out of the case. Nor lifting up to my shoulder which at my age could make me lose my balance.
Hi there! I’m having an issue similar to this one, as I’ve just bought a used telescope, the display is what I would describe as “characters overlapping” as it slides from right to left. It also displays gibberish characters where a letter should be. Any advice would be appreciated!
I can offer some suggestions and you also might want to go to the LX200GPS group located in the groups.io website. There are better experts on the Meade products than I am. If you do not have a manual, the Meade.com website has them. Autostar II hand controller has a setting to slow down the letters so you can read the message and to change the contrast of the letters. Try that first. There may be some RUclips videos on using the hand controller that are more in depth than my videos are. Sometimes the soldered joints may need to be reheated at some locations on the circuit board. Also, the ribbon cable that goes to the LCD screen may need cleaning and that is usually the problem on the LCD text screen. There are several RUclips videos on that topic also. Here is one link; ruclips.net/video/hPpxVjHqhjs/видео.html&ab_channel=JohnCarter Check the button battery on the circuit board in the telescopes’ base. It maybe low or dead. When putting back in the button head screws, put a little grease on the threads. It helps prevent rust and locking. Stainless screws into aluminum screw holes tents to cause electrolysis because they are two different metals and prone to have moisture get to them because we are outside at night when dew happens. If you are having issues with the buttons, I would suggest getting the self-adhesive touch button pad insert that I showed on one of my videos. They are under $15 as I recall. I got several because I had several AutoStar II hand controllers for backups. Link; buttonworx.com/telescopes/33-Autostar.html Sometimes it could be the RS232 plug or cable connections to the hand controller or the telescope base. I have had to replace those plugs several times over the years. Sometimes I had to replace the 4-wire telephone type wire that those plugs use. If you need to fix them get a good wire clamp device for that plug type. The wire clamp would be good to have two or three of those different computer type plugs; www.amazon.com/BASGI-Crimping-Modular-Ethernet-Crimper/dp/B0CFY57BT2/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3CFACN8GGVZYX&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.sq_SpRgXnaeehfIqSBlKcGgrEVqSDgWbaeobW77EPklZyxTeB9rGQKFJh6AuGk4Cakurnr-TnMWnnBn5jF7ZIfh3xI8giEx79X4IurXj7v5KOOCKLQw_kcaVSe5FxIF-W8Iv7DbGK0DyLb2LijM7QDESGWhsf_M0ep7z5ClE10M3pJL_2i02u8vHXaqrrhe2TdWhhz0MxGCiJQ0ucTVMKuOE2gj8IEtMxEBifhE5NbJ2pFkKu4XNTd17MfvtfaiC1VbhDjOkiC_9NMXBM3Qj4Lr5F6CUaqaGU-8YwvuFQlE.NsqhtZAQNVoejsoVujrx7GSAId8xO53pP-fA507bapE&dib_tag=se&keywords=RS-232+crimper+tool&qid=1709359290&s=hi&sprefix=rs-232+crimper+tool%2Ctools%2C147&sr=1-8. Hope the above helps.
@@gadgetmanbowen3081 Major respect for the in depth reply, I’ll look into your suggestions when I get the chance to. Thank you good man
realy sure this is a camera?, looks more like a laser gun to me!!, great for home defence!!
Bravo!
Прекрасно❤
Perfect, I have the exact same problem and this video has really helped me. Thanks so much.
Glad the video helped you . Thanks for watching.
How can I come in contact with you?
What is the contact to be about?
How to use the guiding with LX200 and connesting of teh cables?@@gadgetmanbowen3081
Well done! Nice rig.
Thank you
where did you get the bracket to attach the autofocuser bracket to the curved part of the Meade micofocuser?
That is a 3D print. I have a silent video on doing the Microfocuser mode using a ZWO EAF; In the text below the video, there is a link to download the drawing file and a l ink to the RUclips video I when by for the mode. Here is the info: Ref: • Ep 038 - How to Make a Home Made Auto... this link has a link on the page to the 3D model to download. www.thingiverse.com/thing:437... I found a printer to do the 3D print. You will have to search for one in you area or online but you need the 3D file to send to them.
Why is there a jet engine next door?
The airport is not far away from where I live. The planes are low for landing and takeoff.
@@gadgetmanbowen3081 i thought you were gonna say its my motor mount noise lol
That’s one nice rig!
Thank you and it is heavy.
Curious about your use of the microfocuser and diagonal as it relates to your image quality. I have a similar setup with a 10" LX200GPS, ZWO cameras etc. But I am using an ASIAIR Plus for control. I'd be eager to learn more about your ZWO modified fine focuser also. Whats the best way to reach you?
@@robertwiley3062 My email is gadgetman4520 (AT symbol) att (PERIOD symbol) net. Got the suggestion to use the diagonal from another RUclips subscriber and saw a setup on RUclips also. Still trying the setup but sky conditions and wind have hampered me. Only difference I see is Focal Length changed for NINA. Not a big issue, you just change the FL to what NINA states it is in your telescope settings in NINA.
That's the sound i remember , the smell is intoxicating , I still have my O S 25 / 4 cc and a 2.5 cc , the 25 pulls a 4 ft span c/l model straight off and up with 40 ft lines .
Those were the days. I had a super tiger .60 setup for a biplane that I never managed to finish. Ran everything from the .10 to .40 on a variety of planes that I built from kits or scratch. All balsa, pine and shrink wrapped. Mixed my own fuels. The sounds, smell, the mess, the excitement of that first flight when I didn’t know if it was going to fly or thrash itself into oblivion.
You have almost the exact setup I have, except my LX200 is not the gps. I have a question for you: Do you use the Park function in NINA, or do you do something else? I have been trying g to get mine to park for almost 2 years now, and none of the forums or Facebook groups have been able to help.
I use NINA when I am imagining to Park the telescope, I also use my hand controller at times. When using NINA, it parks, and the hand controller notifies you to turn off the telescope. NINA does not turn off the telescope. Sometimes I turn on the Park when setting up sessions in NINA, which automatically parks after the last session. Or you can uncheck that feature and Park with the hand controller or NINA’s button control under the Telescope tab. For Forum help, I most of the time go to the LX200GPS Group, search for groups.io. Sorry for not looking at my channel for so long. Hope this information helps.
Hi. Just a question: how do you avoid the risk of the camera hitting the base of the fork? in the video you point to south but, what happen if you want to point, let´s say, to NGC281 Pacman? Does the Autostar software rejects that due to the evident clearance problem?
In this video you have to watch the slewing and stop it if you are going to have a contacting condition. There will be some areas of the sky you cannot image when the camera sticks out the back to avoid collisions. I have another video putting the camera on a 2" diagonal that makes it go vertically up. I have done some images at night and tested in the house using the vertical train. However, due to weather I have not been able to do much. Another person mentioned the vertical imaging train and stated it works for him. Do not know how a reducer will work in the vertical imaging train.
Do you have a template we can print off for making this for the lx200?
I made a PDF on 11" x 17" size paper just now and cropped the paper but still will have to be printed on 11x17 or maybe smaller paper sizes in parts. I can email it to you or put in on my drop box for you to download. But I will need your email to put it on drop box. I have not tried it in the field as yet. Been too hot here in the Deep South USA. Should work on the LX. The wood one for the Sky-Watcher one works on its GEM, but it was really simple to make.
Too close to neutral. You need some bias on the axis to make sure the scope doesn't float in the backlash. You want to keep the gear train loaded at all times. Same is true in RA. The right arm is a little heavier because of the DEC motor and clutch. Don't balance it out with the guider or finder on the left. Keep a load on the drivetrain.
Thanks for the tips!
Wow, after all these years I found a video on how to balance a forked mounted telescope on an equatorial wedge. ruclips.net/video/k-2lKY--Y10/видео.html&ab_channel=MooseHenderson%2CWildlifePhotography I had to screw my weight up and down on the threaded rod. I will need to recheck my horizonal balance again. I put my Dew Buster controller a while back to balance in the horizontal plane. I would not think that it has changed.
Hi, I’m impressed with your guiding, I also have a 12” lx200 and I’m about to fit it to a wedge. Did you do any other modifications or tuning other than balancing and correcting in one direction?
Do not know what model 12” LX200 you have but a club member had one that weighed close to 100-lbs. We had to help him put it on the tripod. Putting that beast on a wedge will not be an easy task. Unless you have the style that has the joint in the forks. A school had one in a Dome that had the joints in the forks allowing removal of the telescope and half of the fork arms lengths without removing the base. I was thinking about de-forking mine and using it on the Sky-Watcher EQ6-R Pro (GEM) I have now. But the 10” SCT weights 26-lbs off the forks. That is near the maximum limit of my Sky-Watcher. The GEM will take a Celestron 9.25” SCT with added weight for guide scope etc. If I had to do it all over again, I would have gotten a good GEM over a fork mounted telescope. That was a good night in my backyard with the 10” LX. Do not remember if the Moon was out and I had just put on the ZWO EAF a little while back. I changed out the nylon gears years ago to metal gears from Peterson Equipment. Adjusted reducing the gear meshing play in both RA and Dec gears from a video I saw on MeadeMods. Here is a link to his videos, he does a lot of Meade work; www.youtube.com/@meademods/videos. I even drilled a hole in the arm and base bottom plate to access the adjustment screw, so I do not have to remove the arm’s cover or the base’s cover. But on the mount/tripod, I cannot access the bottom adjustment screw. You should not have to adjust them for some time after setting them. Maybe check them once in a while when off the tripod. You will need to do the calibration and training programs covered in the Meade hand controller. I also did the PEC training, and it does take about 20 to 30 minutes. Training does not have to be done all the time, maybe a couple of times a year. You can view the hand controller’s Matrix in the manual to see where certain commands are to do the training. Page 24 has the Matrix, page 29 covers some other training/calibrate/settings and page 39 is PEC; www.meade.com/downloadEntityFile/assets/product_files/instructions/LX200GPS_manual.pdf I customized my Park position and have entered several viewing sites, but GPS also can do your location/time/date without you having to enter in time and date and selecting the site. In PHD2, I DO NOT turn ON the guide in one direction selection. Never have tried that feature. Balance is the key and backlash (covered in the manual). After I removed my bigger guide scope and the rear cell weight, I was able to balance with just two-barrel weights. Now, that was with the image train straight out (horizontal) the back of the Microfocuser and not using a focal reducer. That position will at times collide with the equatorial wedge or the telescope’s base. You have to watch it when slewing and be quick to shut down if a collision is going to occur. Meade told me that setting the RA or Dec limits does not work on a wedge setup. I am now trying the vertical imaging train, but balance is tougher. Again, still not using a Focal Reducer. I just found on ScopeStuff a weight system which fits on my barrel weight rail that may help me with balancing for the vertical imaging train. I have not tried the off-axis guider (OAG) method that many recommend for this long focal length (FL). I have an older Meade OAG but it is large and bulky. If you look into an OAG be aware that you may want a bigger prism size than some of the manufacturers provide in their OAGs’. As for back focus, Meade Tech people told me that unless I was using a Focal Reducer in my Microfocuser, then the 55mm back focus is not required. But if I use the focal reducer the 105mm back focus is required from the back glass of the focal reducer. The focal reducer would be screwed to item L on page 5 in the manual which is inserted into the item C (Microfocuser). Without a focus reducer I just insert the 2” nose adapters, on the camera, into item C and tighten down with item I (thumb screws). Now, attaching directly to the rear cell, not using the Microfocuser, might require both back focus settings as I have seen on other brands of SCT’s. Hope this information is helpful to you. Clear skies.
Thank you for such a full reply, I’ve considered a belt dove conversion offered by an English company but it is rather expensive. I’ve adjusted the gear mesh and I’ve got the metal gears. I’m mounting the telescope on a permanent mount in a box in the backyard. I can run power out to it quite easily for heating or an extractor fan quite easily if needed. I’ll bring it inside for particularly bad weather or if we’re going away. What is your regular arc seconds guiding error that you’re happy with? Thanks for the tip about the oag I was thinking of grind one of the larger mirror models for the ease of use, one benefit of having such a large sct is that there’s space available in the focus tube. So balance and pec! Thanks and good luck
@@timbingham8881 “What is your regular arc seconds guiding error that you’re happy with?” That is a question I do not know really how to answer. I have watched many a RUclips videos on PHD2 guiding. Many tell you to avoid looking at the graph but look at the Tot, usually at the bottom left of the screen in the graph window. It is the RMS Error [px] information. You would like the graph to be as flat as possible without other lines going upward also. But, from what I understand you want the Tot to be under 1.00. I do not know if that is the Error number or the [px] number. I always thought it was the [px] number. Anyway, the LX is usually under [0.60] and it has been higher over 1.00 and lower but my Sky-Watcher EQ-R Pro GEM is really much better and lower. So, I know it is not the guiding camera or the telescope, but it is the Meade mount and maybe the balancing, since I am using the same guiding camera and guiding scope on both rigs. For the LX, with the ZWO ASI294MC Pro I am taking images with 2x2 binning after reading, that due to the focal length and seeing conditions I should be doing that. Haven’t had much luck with night skies since reading that to see if I get better images. Then there was something about the [px] I am trying to learn. Now I am confused on what Tot I am to look for. One video talked about Astronomy Tools - CCD Suitability Calculator: astronomy.tools/calculators/ccd_suitability and that is where I determined I needed to change to the 2x2 or 3x3 binning. Do not know how accurate that calculator is because, on my setup the resulting Focal Length is more than the listed focal length in the calculator for my LX. You can type in your own FL. NINA gives a warning window if the FL entered for the telescope is wrong. When I read what the warning shows for the FL, I go back to Equipment tab and type in the FL the warning produced for the telescope and all works after that. Still learning even after all these years and taking what I thought was some nice photos. Maybe I just got lucky in the past.
Thanks for your videos! On my quite new LX200 I believe the hand controller button conductive-contacts go BAD with months of no activity. (Room temperature low humidity storage.) Spray contact cleaner alone not effective - must physically micro-abrade. Dunno if PCBoard or elastomer the problem,. Difficult to get all contacts working, requires several tries. Any thoughts?
Well, if it is the button contacting the circuit board, there are two possible fixes that I have done. One was using an electrically conductive paint material, but I like the adhesive applied button card. I now have the button card on three of my AutoStar-II hand controllers and put one on a fourth one I sent out to a fellow astronomer. My video shows the adhesive card I installed almost a year ago for that hand controller. This is the one I like, Buttonworx, and purchased several, one for each of my AutoStar-II controllers. I have a total of three, with two for backup now; buttonworx.com/telescopes/33-Autostar.html Buttonworx Info on the product they make; ruclips.net/video/fVY6zTXVfV0/видео.html&ab_channel=p1repair Buttonworx Videos of repairing many types of controllers; www.youtube.com/@p1repair/videos RUclips video on the paint on product; ruclips.net/video/GDXwmaheZE8/видео.html&ab_channel=TurboTalksTech Sometimes it could be the cable also. The plugs are RJ-22 or RJ-9 or RJ-44 they are 4 Position/4 Conductor type connectors. Having 4-contact pins and 4-slots for the wire. These are different from the RJ-11 which is 6 Position/4 Conductor, meaning 6 positions for wires but only uses 4 wires as contact. They are a little wider than the RJ-22. If your LCD screen is fussy then maybe the contacts need cleaning. On one hand controller I had to remove the ribbon cable and use a hand sewing needle to lift up the contact pins very slightly inside the plug on the circuit board. That helped. Now the RJ-22 pins at the telescope’s control panel and in the hand controller may need some upward movement also. That is a bit tricky, and I used a dental tool that had a j-point. Be very gentle and careful on lifting all pins. They only need to be lifted a small amount. Hope this helps.
@@gadgetmanbowen3081 Thank You!! Warm summer nights inspired me to again tackle my Failed last year contact cleaning struggle. Last year 'Aggressive' cleaning went from couple to most buttons working, but NOT all. :-( After this inspirational video I happened upon Button Worx, - 4 Meade and 2 SynScan ordered. Now eager to view ALL your helpful vids !!! Good Job !!!
To solve the balance issue near the zenith you need to change out a barrel weight to a pancake style weight that can hang down away from the OTA counterweight rail. Your diagonal needs to be aligned so that it is 180° to the counterweight track. Adjust the pancake weight distance from the center axis to counteract the optical centerline offset of your imaging gear caused by using the diagonal. The distance from the fork OTA axis and the offset from optical center is very sensitive to position because the torque varies with the square of the distance! To maintain balance from 0 -> 90° Dec the mass of the counterweight and offsets of the center of mass from both the Dec axis and optical centerline should match as closely as possible the center of mass and offset of the imaging gear. Obviously it won't be exact.. in fact, you'll want to have some bias either nose heavy or tail heavy to ensure the drive train is under oad at all times to avoid backlash float. The same is true for the RA drive train. Add a small weight to one fork arm a needed to keep the RA axis under load and avoid going through a balance point where the backlash causes float or shifts bias as you track your target. The barrel weights are mostly useful for offsetting finder scopes. Any gear mounted further away from optical center needs the 2 axis offset of the pancake system. I see you have some gear attached to one fork. Be mindful of the effect of this weight as for a 10" OTA it's riding about 7" offset from the RA center of rotation. The forks start out unbalanced with the DEC drivetrain and clutch plates being in one side, and that is intentional as it keeps the RA drive loaded. Your add on may cause a zero balance point in RA motion unloading the drivetrain or overload it. Neither is good for guiding. If you're getting times or parts of the sky when your images look bad or guiding freaks out, this is probably why. The other problem you are sure to encounter is flexure in your imaging path due to the use of slip fit attachmenta that are only designed for visual use. They will slip and they will sag when you attach heavy cooled cameras with spacers. The Meade microfocuser can be configured with threaded attachment on both sides. But watch out for adapters with restricted internal optical path. Find a diagonal with removable barrels that you can replace with threaded adapters/spacers. The Meade SCT was designed around a 105mm backfocus. As you discovered, the effective focal length decreased as you increased the amount of backfocus distance. It also reduces the image circle size and brightness. Hopefully you've already changed the backplate to rid yourself of the SCT 2" threaded interface with its small 37mm clear optical diameter. You should be able to get APS-C sensor coverage with minimal light drop off if you maintain 48mm interfaces throughout and are careful to find a diagonal with a large clear optical path and standard thread sizes. Although once your added the diagonal is tempting to relax about spacing within the limits of the OTA focuser, it's best to keep things as short and tight as possible. Long focal length helps a bit with tilt and sag, but vibration and light drop off with long backfocus more than offsets it. Great creative idea to image near the zenith especially for those with bad seeing and light pollution! Thanks for posting. I like your rig. I'm partial to Mead optics 😁😁😁 2:54
Thank you for the info and reply. I will look into that weight system. Lots of info to take in for sure. I have been trying to get better tracking for many years now. The LX was my first big purchase back in early years of 2000. There are times I got really nice pictures with the telescope but that mostly occurred at the club's dark site.
I welcome recommendations about getting my rig to track better. I re-read your suggestions and did some searching on the pancake weight system you mentioned. I assume the weight system you are suggesting is the one where the pancake weight can be screwed in and out on the treaded bar that is connected to a dove tail plate that is connected to the bottom of the telescope. Is that correct? Is there a potential problem with the projected pancake weight and its threaded bar colliding with the wedge’s sides? I saw a system that listed for a Meade 10” LX and got a sticker shock. I moved my Dew Buster controller to the East arm to add weight to that side. I read that the east side should be a little heavy when balancing the setup, so the gears are engaged. I realize that when that side slews to the other side that feature is probably not working. As for the rear cell items, I have not changed anything out from what the telescope came with when I purchased it new twenty years ago, other than Bobs nobs for collimation and Peterson Precision kits for the gears from Nylon to metal and a focus knob upgrade. The opening of the rear cell attachment piece is original and does have a 37mm opening but I need that piece to attach the Microfocuser’s adapter ring for the Microfocuser’s connection. It did not occur to me that beyond the 37mm opening I had 48mm openings to the camera’s sensor. However, the camera’s sensor is nowhere near 48mm wide. As for the back focus of 105mm, Meade tech people told me not to worry about back focus unless I use the 6.3 reducer, then the 105mm would apply from the glass of the reducer. I had asked them about both the 55mm and the 105mm back focus last year. I did put a small amount of tension on the Microfocuser’s ball bearing set screws. I also tightened down the nose pieces on the 2” diagonal. The last few nights that I was using the vertical setup, I did not experience any slippage or rotation as I did a few months ago when I first tried the vertical setup. Seeing conditions in my backyard are Bortle 7 and at the club field it is Bortle 4.5. But my backyard is getting worse I think on light pollution. I have noticed in my backyard that EAF and plate solving has more failures than at the club’s field and the light pollution filter does not help in the backyard either. The light pollution filter may help on taking pictures but the EAF and plate solving it does not.
Thank you thank you thank you. You saved my back.
Glad to help out.
Another person has a bit more simper design than mine you might want to look into. Here is his link; ruclips.net/video/lTkIOmHOi1g/видео.html&ab_channel=JimWakefield
Living in Ohio, I completely understand the inside/warm aspect :-) We recently moved to a house, on a ridge, and the back faces south. Perfect for backyard viewing. Working to automate a Nexstar 6SE. Communications with Celestron's "serial" interfaces is a bit of a challenge (getting Starsense, GPS, MotorFocuse all to "play nice" together). But, I guess, that's 1/2 the fun or frustration depending if you're a glass 1/2-full kinda person. Thanks for the video. Gives me (60+) encouragement to persevere 🙂
Thanks for coming to my RUclips channel. You mentioned working on your Nexstar 6SE. Since it is a Celestron product you might need to use Celestron’s CPWI program on your computer. There are many videos using CPWI and some with NINA connection. One using NINA suggested using the Hub setting in telescope setting in NINA not the CPWI connection setting. The astronomy club I am in has a Celestron mount in the dome and it works well with CPWI for the alignment but I use NINA for taking photos and I do have the setting for the telescope connection set to the Hub connection but still use CPWI for star alignment. Here is the link I found; ruclips.net/video/VGn0930-oio/видео.html&ab_channel=StevenMorris. Now some others use the CPWI setting in NINA and maybe they have not had issues with Drop Outs. Another RUclips channel source you might want to view is by, AstroBlender.
@@gadgetmanbowen3081 Thank you!
Do you have the old original motor and is it any good?
Yes, I still have the motor. It was working fine when I did the conversation. I put it in a plastic bag for safe keeping. Are you looking for a motor? I would just do the modification to an EAF so you can get auto focus done with programs that do that. The ZWO EAF can come with an electric hand controller. Assuming you are into astrophotography or plan on getting into it. I think my RUclips channels allows you to email me for additional discussions.
I noticed on one of your reply’s that you have pdf plans for this build. I would love to have a copy. I have a Celestron cpc800 and a bad back, so the need is obvious. Great thinking out of the box. I am a machinist and have a full shop in my garage, should you need service of this type I would be happy to help. Your drawings and materials, my labor free.
Thanks for viewing my RUclips channel and the construction offer. Glad to help out and share with things I have learned. Video having the PDF drawings ruclips.net/video/bJTRpVheqO0/видео.html&ab_channel=GadgetmanBowen. If you want the actual file, send me an email to gadgetman4520@att.net and I will attach the PDF. Please indicate in the subject box what you are asking about ex: PDF dwg. Clear skies.
Dang that seems harder than trigonometry
Well, it is not that long to do, only when you are trying to explain the procedure. I stopped using Nebulosity to preview. I now go straight to NINA’s camera view. You do not have to run the ASCOM diagnosis either, just the connection to the telescope. Probably takes me 5-minutes when I am in the field.
@@gadgetmanbowen3081 it’s like anything else just have to get pass the learning curve. I Appreciate the insight!
Nice! Glad it worked for you.
Thank you for the idea and 3D file. I have another RUclips video on running the autofocus routine in NINA with the EAF on the LX200.
Are you using the f6.3 or the f3.3 focal reducer? I have the same scope BTW.
I was told the f3.3 came with its own short spacer, which it did, and the adapter is shown in the video. The f3.3, I was told, is for use with the old Meade DSI cameras, which now crash my computer and never were really that good. I have tired the f3.3 with and without the Meade DSI cameras but never could get it to produce round stars over the entire field or I could not get focus. However, that is probably my error somewhere. Of course, I had it in the Microfocuser and maybe I should have it connected directly to the rear cell, but I have not done that in some time now. As for the f6.3, I use it before I found out it needed the 105mm back spacers from the back of the focal reducer. Since I use the Microfocuser the f6.3 goes into the Microfocuser and produces a much longer extension which will hit the equatorial wedge base and sides at certain positions. However, if you do not use the Microfocuser, then the f6.3 would screw onto the rear cell’s threads and then you screw on the back spacers, but you will still have the issue of hitting the wedge at certain positions. I have upgraded my Microfocuser with a ZWO EAF. I have a video on using it. Now to learn how to set limits on the Meade LX so as not to hit the equatorial wedge. Even when I use my DSLR I still have to watch for contact issues. Hope this helps.
Informative video. Any idea why the mount reported lunar tracking instead of sidereal in NINA?
Maybe I did not change the tracking mode in the hand controller. I will have to check that next time out. Thanks for noticing that.
Glad to see you're still able to manage your scope. I'm in my 60's and my Celestron 11-GPS is a beast to handle. I don't have a wedge so I can manage. I have a C8 on a wedge (also) so I may copy your approach for that scope. Thanks!
Glad to help. See the video that you can pause to screen shot the plans.
My sharp eye caught where you drilled out a reference "hole/dimple" in your concrete patio to save TONS OF TIME in repositioning the tripod between sessions. I plan on using solid 4x8x16 concrete blocks recessed/leveled into the lawn so mowing won't be affected and in each block I will also drill/carve out dimples to make my setting up also TONS EASIER and saving LOTS of time.... Great minds must think the same ;-)
AActually, it is a shot of black spray paint where I marked the legs positions with chalk. I used 12-inch square solid, apx 1.5" thick, concrete paver blocks and frame perimeter with treated 2x4’s. They are not exactly 12” square. I measured the blocks and figured out how many I wanted to make the frames inside dimensions matching the blocks layout. I can tell you that there were not any gaps between the blocks once completed. Started laying the blocks out at the perimeter and worked inward. Last block was tight, but a rubber mallet helped set it in. Did not have to pound too much but it did need some help. Now over time the wood has gave way and I now have outer perimeter blocks showing gaps. I plan to redo this fall or spring. About 2” of leveled sand is under the blocks.
@@gadgetmanbowen3081 Trees, gotta love 'em, but, my best viewing location will be in the front lawn and those 3 SOLID 4x8x16 blocks when set down into the ground, not just on top of the grass so I can mow over them, will give me a level, stable, and repeatable location which serves well.
Nice setup! Did the Meade zero-shift focuser motor not work, or were you looking for better performance?
The Meade Microfocuser does not work with ASCOM drivers. So, you cannot remotely control it via software like NINA. Motor was fine and I saved it for storage. Now I can use autofocus features in software. I will say that as the video hopefully covered, I have the ZWO focuser out half of the Meade’s focuser travel as the starting point. I then manually get a fairly good focus at that point with the focus knob. After that I let the software do its thing. That gives it room to move in and out. The ZWO program lets you put in the limits of the focuser travel from zero to your focuser’s max travel. In the Mead case it is 4000 as I recall being the max.
You can view my Meade to EAF video get info on the project. I did the modification based upon someone else's modification.
Thank you so much for taking the time to create this video!
Your welcome
Super helpful video! Can you show how you have your guide camera connected? Do you use the autoguider port on the telescope?
When the video starts showing the telescope, it is the side view of the telescope and you can see the guide scope is at the top of the picture with the silver guide camera attached to it. The guide camera’s USB cable (gray) comes out of the back of the guide camera and travels down to the USB Hub. I do not use the autoguider port which is an ST4 cable. The two ports beside the autoguider port, on the base of the telescope, are used and go to the USB Hub also. Hope this answers your questions. Thanks for watching the video.
@@gadgetmanbowen3081 thank you! I’ve been struggling to get mine tracking and every little bit helps. PHD2 just says my mount can’t use pulse guiding. Anyway I’m glad to see it’s possible. Love your videos!
@@ChristianPsencik Thank you for your kind words and liking the video. I have spent many years trying to get things tracking right on the LX as I covered in the text after the video’s intro. In retrospect, I think the main issues were the balance, gear messing and PEC training. Check out MeadeMods RUclips videos on how to take the slop out of your RA and DEC gear meshing. I got the balance to work out by removing the 80-mm ShortTube Orion guide scope and going down to the 50-mm Orion Mini guide scope with helical focuser but still using my Orion StarShoot Autoguider. You need to balance from 90-deg up to horizontal position. That is the telescope should not move with out the clutch engaged at any position during the balancing. The balance to the right or left can be achieved with weights on the arms but I got it to balance with my DewBuster controller mounted to the left arm. I think some people suggest some downward movement to the east is recommended but not much. I have not tried the OAG method of guiding as yet. That maybe another project after my recent knee replacement starts letting me get around better. As for connections, I have two older #507 Cable Connector Kit adapters and I got two RS232 to USB adapters from StarTech (Part# ICUSB232IF) for both of my RS232 ports on the telescope’s base. As mentioned before, I do not use the ST4 cable from the guide camera that would plug into the Autoguider port, but I do use the USB cable from the guide camera to my USB Hub. In the past the ST4 cable has worked even on PHD. The next improvement was ditching the ST4 cable and changing to all USB connections and resolving the ASCOM drivers to use, as covered in the text after the intro screen. If you get the ASCOM drivers installed PHD should work well. Make sure your RS232 ports are being picked up as COM Ports by checking with Device Manager. If you are using the RS232 to USB adapter and you do not get a COM Port then the adapter is not correct or there are wiring connection issues in the flat 6-wire telephone cable. Hope this helps.
Hi do you have a schematic for this brace.Would love it if you do.
I did do a CAD drawings. I am in rehab right now for my Knee surgery. When I get back home I will contact you again or I will upload that file. Looking at maybe sometime next week to go home.
Home now and have PDF file for you on the drawing for the brace. Need to know how to get it to you.
Impressive results! You make it look easy… I have a lot to learn lol
Thanks 👍
In this video of the mounting brace/bracket I made, I have used this device about four times now. I have discovered that if I stand between the legs of the bracket and press my legs outward to hold the bracket in position is much easier. Holding the bracket in position with my bowed-out legs, I can put the J-bolts on, tighten them down, then wrap the upper cord through the wedge and then exit to install the lower cord. I am getting much faster with mounting the telescope using this brace/bracket. After mounting and removing the brace/bracket I level the telescope.
Very clever! I’ll have to make one when if I can find a wedge one of these days
I found out from others that when using the telescope’s Microfocuser, that the 55-mm back focus is not needed when not using a focal reducer for either the ZWO or the DSLR. You can just stick any needed nose extension on the camera and insert it into the Microfocuser. However, if you are using a focal reducer in the Microfuser you will need the 105-mm distance for my particular focal reducer. Newer focal reducers may require different back focus settings. If you are just mounting the camera to the telescope’s rear cell, without the Microfocuser, then the applicable back focus, 55-mm or 105-mm, will be required. Then you use the telescope’s manual focus knob to obtain focus. Clear skies.
Great! Thanks for sharing! Most of the cases I see people talk about 55mm but I see some cases we can achieve longer back focus
I found out from others that when using the telescope’s Microfocuser, that the 55-mm back focus is not needed when not using a focal reducer for either the ZWO or the DSLR. You can just stick any needed nose extension on the camera and insert it into the Microfocuser. However, if you are using a focal reducer in the Microfuser you will need the 105-mm distance for my particular focal reducer. Newer focal reducers may require different back focus settings. If you are just mounting the camera to the telescope’s rear cell, without the Microfocuser, then the applicable back focus, 55-mm or 105-mm, will be required. Then you use the telescope’s manual focus knob to obtain focus. Clear skies.
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Sorry I may have confused you on what the fix was about.