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Well basically when you have a sealed box - and you put a fan on it to extract the air, the fan pulls out all the air it can and creates a vacuum. This will put a lot of force on the fan-motor. So to avoid creating a vacuum you need a second opening to pull new air inside the box. In my case it's the grill in the frontdoor. During printing the fan is rotating slow, so the grill opening is enough, but when cleaning I set the fan to a high speed, then more air is sucked out, so I need to let more air in, to do this I open the front doors, both for my arms and to let new air in... hope this makes sence, cheers

Thanks for the comment and have fun with the kits 👍 cheers

Hola, usé un ventilador de computadora de 90 mm.

Thanks for the comment, glad you like the video. I added wood-glue to the base and sprinkled sand into the wet glue, it stays wet for a while, so you can roll a spare wheel (or toy, coin, washer,...) into the sand. Measure the distance between the 2 wheels to get the correct spacing. Hope this helps, cheers 👍

@@stevenshobbychannel thanks!

Hi, I bought it quite some time ago from a local model shop, but you're right, it seems indeed more difficult to find these days... You can keep an eye on 'Scalemates' (www.scalemates.com/kits/airfix-a05120a-messerschmitt-bf109e-4-e-1--271978) : in the 'Marketplace' section some people might put up there kit for sale. - Also look at the 'Product timeline' and you can find the same kit with a new box-art and decals. Hope this helps, Cheers

@@stevenshobbychannel Thanks a bunch! I'll keep my eye out for it.

Thanks for the kind words 🙏 cheers

Thanks, all of the ICM bf109 kits come with the engine and panels 👍

Dag Ivo, ja klopt idd 👍

@@stevenshobbychannel hoi Steven , ik heb een vraagje … onlangs een Stanley silent air compressor gekocht …. Welke aansluiting of connectors heb ik nodig om hier een airbrush hose op aan te sluiten ? …. Alvast bedankt voor de info 😉

Ja je compressor heeft normaal een "euro koppeling" aansluiting, bij hubo kan je enkele koppelstukken vinden om van 'Euro' naar 'schroefdraad' of 'flexibele slang' te gaan... Ik heb destijds 'POWAIR0263' gekocht en heb dan een flexible slang gebruikt tot aan de nipple van m'n airbrush. Een andere die ze bv verkopen is 'POWAIR0250', die heeft schroefdraad, vermoedelijk is dat '1/2 schroefdraad', dan zou je nog een verloopstukje nodig hebben om van '1/2' naar '1/8' (airbrush hose) te gaan... Heb zelf nog geen euro-naar-airbrush koppeling gevonden maar vermoedelijk moet dat wel bestaan. Hopelijk heb je er iets aan, succes

@@stevenshobbychannel Superbedankt voor de info … 😉👍

Sounds good 👍 I will most likely update it as well with a timer and switch from an old microwave in the future. Goodluck with the project, cheers

Yes 😅 it looks indeed a bit ridiculous for such a small printer, but it does the job. I wish I could use a bigger printer inside the house but at the moment it's just not possible... Thanks & cheers

Thanks for the kind words, it means a lot 🙏 I don't have much time to make videos and sometimes I wonder if it's even worth the effort, but if it's actually helpful to someone then that's great news, thanks for the support & cheers 👍

You can see the output of the fan connected to some sort of hose at the end of the video. He is probably blowing the fumes to the outside, so no filter necessary (for work safety at least). Sealing anything is obsolete if you are constantly sucking air out of the case, the lower pressure inside the case will suck air in, not letting the fumes out (thats why he can use it with open doors for cleaning).

Hi guys, yes I forgot to mention this in the video, but I have a PVC pipe on the left side which vents outside (it goes up), it would indeed be pointless without that. Sealing is not important when the fan is running, but it helps when your not printing - to keep some odour (from tools, uncured prints or bottles etc) inside. Thanks & cheers 👍

@@stevenshobbychannel are the fumes that bad? I low key enjoy the smell of it😳 always get a great night sleep printing my FGC9mkii's. But her different strokes for different ff322wi32wszfhbns2fn.y4sz,x mm763w2qzzdfgmmy4 Right? Oh just noticed no filter on the fan? Then what's the point?;

Great point on the caulk, I feel the same way. For the filter, I had assumed he was venting outside his bunker.

Hi, reducing sound can be quite complex, but in general the heavier the (box) material will be, the more it will reduce sound, MDF tends to be cheap and heavy, so that's why I used it. Plywood will work too, but 1/2" might be somewhat on the thin side though (perhaps add an extra layer of mdf on the inside?). The channels help reduce some of the direct sound-rays, imagine someone shouting directly at you or from behind the corner, the difference might be subtle but all small things help. hope you project will turn out nice, cheers

@@stevenshobbychannel thanks for the reply. I'm getting closer and closer to putting this together. What thickness sound proofing material did you go with? I was thinking 1 inch all around.

Yes, the stuff I used was about 1inch indeed, have fun 👍

@@stevenshobbychannel Hey so I finally did this for myself thanks for the info and suggestions. I used 3/4" plywood btw. I was wondering is it ok if the sound proofing touches the hot parts of the motor? It says this stuff is flame retardant and it touches the top of it so it is not blocking any air flow areas. Just wanted to be safe.

Hi, great to read you've finished your project, to be safe I would cut out a small bit around the hot parts, so nothings starts melting or creating toxic fumes etc. It's always better if you can keep a space of about 1/2" around hot areas. Perhaps heat a small left-over piece with a hot iron or something to see what it does... Cheers

Thanks for the comments, means a lot! Yes making the videos takes a lot of time unfortunately... Hope you'll start a new model soon, have fun and cheers

Thanks! Glad you like the video 🙏

Thanks for the tip, I mentioned the drain-valve in the previous (repair) video, but it didn't get any love in this one. Draining the tank is indeed a pain at the moment, I also have to 'angle' the compressor because they didn't mount the drain-valve at the lowest point. Cheers

@@stevenshobbychannel spent 20+ yrs in Compressed air industry - seen many things. Pharmaceutical Co. had there compressor in same room as a Boiler n wondered why they were having a water problem in there lines :) Sewerage plant said there instrumentation valves stopped working but the air is clean - I tapped the bowl on the Filt/Reg & it wobbled - full up with very clean water :) Panel Beaters do things on a budget - to minimise water many feed the air line via tea room fridge then back out to workshop. Fridge is always running so why not I guess - crude but it works.

Hi, I haven't got something to measure the dB accurately, but I prefer the compressor when it's inside the box lol. - Rockwool is very good for sound insulation, but only in combination with a solid surface (wall/wood panel), it's quite dense and will dampen the sound a lot, but sound will still penetrate through, so ideally you still want to build a box and add the rockwool to the inside... For a box; the heavier the material the more it will reduce the sound (wood-brick-concrete...) Cheers

Yes for the Ninja jet you could make the box smaller, but make sure you still have some extra space around it for the heat dissipation. Cheers

Thanks xD

Thanks, yes you're right, I might add that in the future 👍 cheers

Thanks for the kind words 🙏 you can find some measurements in the final seconds of the video, cheers

Wow how did I miss that? Thank you very much!@@stevenshobbychannel

Very helpful, especially your approach to bringing in cooling air. Thank you.

Yes good point, at that time I was planning to mount a tool and paint rack under the cabinet which would have covered the bolts, but I never did, thanks and cheers 👍

Thanks, you all did a very good job 👍 I had a great day, cheers