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Thank you! It’s an LSX b15 longblock with a ported LSA blower at about 16psi. Makes about 700whp. The Toyos are interesting. They don’t hook worth a crap on the street and will go up in smoke from any slow roll. On a sticky track though, I’ve actually cut as good as a 1.59 60’ on them and run fairly consistent 10.6’s with em. You can’t just dump the pedal off the line , but on a really well prepped track they stick pretty good for a tire that’s comfortable enough on the road for me to drive 3 hours to the track on, take fast cloverleafs with etc.. they really just feel like summer tires when cruising but aired down on a sticky track with a big burnout they can do some work. Actually see em wrinkle up a little on close up shots of the launch.

Basically a great tire if you want something you can drive anywhere on, get a lot of miles out of but still do fairly decent on the track with. If you want to win street races or want to cut your best possible 60’s at the track I wouldn’t recommend , at least not at this HP level. Much better off with an ET-R, Radial Pro, Hoosier DOT or even a bias slick then

That's awesome man. I'm only making 330 to the wheels so I think they would hook up for me at the track. These tires caught my eye from looking through forums online. People saying there somewhere between nt555r and m/t radials. It's amazing you cut a 1.59 60 foot with them.

Yes sir. LSX b15 376 topped with an LSA blower.

I know! I wasn’t expecting them to rub that bad, but after looking at them I don’t know why I wouldn’t have expected that. That are actually rubbing BETWEEN the wheel arches, as in the diameter is to tall they touch the front and back edge of the wheel arch. I have three ideas. Idea one is just buy another wheel with more BS to push the tire deeper into the wheel well and away from the arches. Should work fine but I really like the stock wheel look Option 2 is have the face of the wheel machines to do the same, but I don’t know how much can safely be removed- probably not enough Option 3 is have the stock wheel widened to 10” which should help suck the tire back away from the edge of the lip and give me more room , and I think that might be enough to fix it. Of course the final option is to just abandon them and go to an ET Radial or ET-R which I may do anyway. These swayed bad down track without a skinny or bias ply up front. Maybe just keep ‘em for the no prep 1/8th mile local races they do here since they shouldn’t rub with the speed I get in the 1/8th. They really do seem like a good tire for poor prep though. I think the car can go much faster on a well prepped track on an et-r or et radial but seeing how well they hooked with the poor prep last week, I was impressed. My Toyos have cut 1.59’s on very good prep but I couldn’t get better than a 1.9 out of them that day and the Hoosiers went 1.5x right off the trailer first time ever playing with em.

Look closely . island flashes the et very quickly so you’re probably seeing the 131.16 which is the mph. If you watch it carefully you’ll see it flash 10.67 which was the ET, but I mean you can also time it with a stop watch if you’d like haha should be obvious if you’ve been around drag racing for a while, you can tell a 13 second car from a 10 second car even when it’s no time.

Quit hatin 🤣🤣🤣💯.

Sorry man, they went as sneaky as they came. I bought them from a local speed shop and I when I searched for them online they seemed to be an Australian company I believe. I no longer see them listed on the speed shop’s website and I can’t find the website for the company anymore. The speed shop I bought them from maybe has an idea though, SK speed (skspeed.com). they still have a few of their other products listed. I never saw any other shop, or anywhere online that sold that brand.

I kinda miss this sound. I went to borla pro xs’s with a dynomax bullet resonator welded before them because this setup started getting a little louder than I liked over time and the borlas were much quieter in car. I think the borlas are still quieter but they are definitely closer in volume now that they are broken in to this old magnaflow setup, but the magnaflow setup definitely sounded meaner.

@@nocturnalcustoms376 OK thanks for the reply!! Awesome work that you’re doing/did by the way. Keep up the good work 👍🏿👍🏿

Thanks! 3.73’s. at somepoint I might go back to 3.42’s or even 3.23’s since I have more than enough power to overwhelm the tire off the line, I don’t think it will hurt e/t much and I’d like my highway rpm’s to be a bit lower since I do a lot of out of state long drives. This launch was probably the most throttle I’ve given it and it managed to hook up but I still wasn’t foot braking it and still didn’t mash the pedal to the floor. If I raced it on a better tire like an et-r or a slick it would launching much harder, but I can only put down so much with these Toyos

No kong, just a mildly ported LSA blower. It now makes 700whp with a 9.6 lower and tuned by RK tuning in NJ. Fits under the hood and cowl no problem, a little tight in the back cowl area but it fits. I’m using kds engine mounts. Not sure how it would be with other brand mounts but I assume since most of the others slide the motor forward it would fit better if anything.

They are, widened to 12” by weldcraft . I notched the chassis and did a little massaging to the wheel well to fit 345/40/17 drag radials

The only Chevy I would own. Im a Mustang fan.​@@nocturnalcustoms376

Let off, it won’t stop spinning till I let off but wasn’t looking to get too crazy lol

I’m talking about from the inside I see smoke. But when I listen now it’s sounds like it’s on point. I can tell exactly when you let off the gas. I got one. Any suggestions for that kind of pedal response. God knows I would appreciate it?

I’ve done so much stuff in such a short period it’s hard to remember the details but I know I didn’t have to extend anything off the ECU connections. It BARELY reached where I mounted it, although it is kind of an awkward mounting location because of the wiring length. Wasn’t worth extending every ECU harness wire just to pull the ECU a few inches further out into the glove box though. I had to extend about 6-8 wires that form a ground bundle and that was about it. Aside from that, I cut the loom apart and decoupled the alternator feed from the injector part of the harness to give it more length. I then used that to go to a junction block under the dash so you can pull that and the rear of the harness under the dash. I then built a new alternator cable that ran from the alternator to the other side of that junction block under the dash and loomed that back into the harness with some matching loom tape so it looks seamless.

It’s a 26” with their spal fans, I believe it’s the 3 core , but I will double check since it may be the 4 core. I can’t seem to find my receipt for it and I ordered it via phone. They told me this shouldn’t have any issue keeping up with the hellcat 6.2.

345/45/17 on a 12” stretched stock wheel on the rear and 255/50/17 up front . I notched the rear rails and did a little work to the wheel wells to make the 345’s fit.

That sounds similar to what Mark Williams built me. Not a cv but they have their own billet adapter using 1350 u joints but it’s much shorter than the sonnax one when I compared them side by side. 3.5” with a slip section and critical speed was rated somewhere around 6700, so with my 30” tire I figure that’s way higher than I’d ever be trapping with this car lol Even with the minimal movement of the caltracs I don’t think. A one piece shaft would work without a slip section in these older leaf spring cars. Can get away with it on a new HC because there’s no diff movement with the irs