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Do you feel superior since you found a misspelled word?

That just leaves another project for this summer!

That's an awesome size garden! I've never been successful in using the hiller attachment though. I wish I could be.

Thank you for sharing. That's great info. I'll definitely be taking note of some of the places you got parts from. It's seem like it's getting harder and harder to find people who know machinery like this.

I actually used the same gear oil that I used in my 2001 Ford F250, which is 75W-90. I'm actually not sure if that's what you're supposed to use, but it's what I've always used. It has well for me so far.

That's good to know! I've never thought about it that way. Thanks!

The number on the drive may be referencing the part number that was used by the company that made the drive shaft. The model number and serial number for the actual tiller may be found on the transmission housing and will be cast into the housing block. If you can find it, call into Troy-Bilt and they should be able to pull up all the info that you need.

I would start by taking apart the tiller tines off the tiller. There are two dog clutches in there and they could be rusted. And with the load of the engine turning, it's not allowing it to disengage. If that's the case, just clean them up and oil them good. While it's apart, also take a look at the dog clutch on the gearbox side. Make sure that, when moving the PTO clutch lever, that it's sliding back and forth smoothly. If not, start by cleaning the parts good and oiling them. Start there and see where it takes you. The Achilles heel of these horse tillers is that all the parts have to be very well lubricated, but spending their life in dirt is not good for the lubrication and creates a lapping compound. So it's a fine dance between keeping them clean and keeping them lubricated. Feel free to reach out to me if you have any questions.

Thanks, will do

You do, but I've found that the tolerances are so loose that it doesn't have to be perfect.

I found the parts directly from the Troy-Bilt website: www.troybilt.com/en_US/garden-tiller-parts

That's a great engine upgrade/swap! And even though the Predator seems to be looked down upon for being a cheap engine from Harbor Freight, it's one of the "honey holes" of engines for farming equipment. As long as you keep up with the oil maintenance, they'll keep going forever.

No

Sorry I haven't gotten back to you sooner. I'm assuming the spring you're talking about is the one that goes behind the dog clutch on the tiller assembly. If that spring is okay and hasn't eaten through the rubber seal that's behind it, then it's probably one of two things. 1.) You're PTO shaft is worn down 2.) Your worm gear has been worn down. I had a very simiar issue happen to me on this tiller. I would start with draining the gear fluid in the tiller attachment and see how much metal is in the fluid. If there's a lot of gold specs, then the worm gear is gone and will have to be replaced. If you need, you can find a manual for your tiller here: www.brentchalmers.com/TillerManuals.php The best part is they typically include an explosive diagram that shows all the parts and where they go (the section you will need to focus on is the Tiller Attachment Transmission Assemblies), plus some of them even have the part numbers so you can easily find replacements if needed.

I was very worried about the rims seizing. After working a few hours to get one rim off, I just left the other one alone and hoped that I will never have to deal with it again. Fingers crossed!

I read where one guy knocked the roll pins out which attach the wheels to the axel and sprayed it with some PB Blaster. Then he just tilled some soil and the wheels broke loose by themselves. I haven't tried it yet, but it sounded good!

I've never experimented on letting the suckers grow on the tomato plant. I planned to do it this year, but we had LOTS of rain this year that caused us to lose all of our crops. So I plan to experiment next season. For now, we are planning for our fall garden.

partstree.com has some

We are so sorry for the lack of response. We were on a long hiatus from RUclips and are just getting back. I went directly to Troy Bilt to get all the replacement parts. It took me some time, but finding a manual on Google helped A LOT. And thank you for the compliment.

The PTO was so torn up and it's so difficult to get in there that I decided to go in with all new parts, so about 99% of all the parts were new.

You are right on that one. Troy Bilt sent me the wrong PTO seal which caused a leak. I ended up contacting them and getting the right seal, so it's now leak free.

@@tillermanfarms2162 can you give me the part #please?

The original part number is 9617, but has been replaced with 921-04030 according to the Troy-Bilt website. www.troybilt.com/en_US/miscellaneous-classification/oil-seal-.750id-x-1.783od/921-04030.html#q=9617&lang=en_US&start=0

Very true

Personally, I went to Troy Bilt directly for all my replacement parts. It did take me a few hours to find everything, but the manual helped a lot. Good luck

Mtd bought greenway out. I purchased a transmission for 800.00 from them it’s an exact match

Thanks for the advice. I have seen people do it, but have never tried it myself.

Thanks really enjoyed it, I really would like to know where to get a catalog. I have a troy built horse tiller 8 hp maginum I bought, not real sure, in 1978 new. I don't know how I can find out what year it is but I would need to know so I can order the right parts for it. Can you help. Thanks

Great job on the video. I have the same tiller I bought in 1992. The Magnum Kohler is a great engine but certain parts are no longer available for them. My coil went bad causing the rope to kick back when starting. Before I could determine it was the coil it ruined the recoil starter which is not available for the M8T. I fixed it, replaced it with a new Honda GX270 8.5HP engine. Wonderful upgrade, good for another 29 years now!

@Peter Ohmart - Originally I did do a step-by-step video, but it was 2.5 hours long. Needless to say, I decided to shorten it. But I am trying to come up with ways to keep the videos short, but still get in all the vital information. So it's a work in progress

@Ray Lassiter - I was able to find the serial number on the tiller. With that, I contacted Troy Bilt and they were able to give me the year and model number. Once I had that info, I Googled a parts manual. It took some hunting, but was able to find it after a short time. What I liked about their manual is that they listed the parts and part numbers. For the most part, the part numbers had not changed. There were some new part numbers for a few parts, so I had to search for it by the name of the part instead.

@Steve Warner - One of my biggest fears is when something goes out on the motor that I won't be able to repair and I will end up having to do a motor swap.

Google custom parts inc.

We are so sorry for the lack of response. We were on a long hiatus from RUclips and are just getting back. Personally, I have always had trouble with any replacement parts that weren't Troy Bilt, so I always go to them directly. I would suggest calling their Customer Support directly at (800) 828-5500. They helped me identify the exact year and model of my tiller through the serial number. Once I had that info, I Googled a parts manual which lists all the parts and Troy Bilt part numbers.

You are too kind!

Coming soon! Stay tuned for more entertainment!