- Видео 13
- Просмотров 25 727
Thomas Le G
Добавлен 26 июн 2016
All my passions in one channel, hope you enjoy my videos
CNC MILLING MACHINE - PART 6 - Filling with epoxy granit & more
Hello,
In this video you will see the epoxy sand/granit process. This is my first time doing this and I'm quit happy with the result. Now the project will go further and faster. I will assemby all the machine, adjust all axis and start wiring it up.
Thank's for your support
Song 1 : Tango Bango - E's Jammy Jams
ruclips.net/video/dLEUBQm5cQ0/видео.html
Song 2 : Dance - Aliya Noor
ruclips.net/video/jpjFjpvpX4s/видео.html
Song 3 : Pop Smoke - 8 Ball
ruclips.net/video/FlEr0JEw2vg/видео.html
Song 4 : Thunder Chant - E's Jammy Jams
ruclips.net/video/LoEu9z1AcH4/видео.html
Song 5 : Take Me Out to the Ballgame - E's Jammy Jams
ruclips.net/video/akmwkCZ4j_8/видео.html
In this video you will see the epoxy sand/granit process. This is my first time doing this and I'm quit happy with the result. Now the project will go further and faster. I will assemby all the machine, adjust all axis and start wiring it up.
Thank's for your support
Song 1 : Tango Bango - E's Jammy Jams
ruclips.net/video/dLEUBQm5cQ0/видео.html
Song 2 : Dance - Aliya Noor
ruclips.net/video/jpjFjpvpX4s/видео.html
Song 3 : Pop Smoke - 8 Ball
ruclips.net/video/FlEr0JEw2vg/видео.html
Song 4 : Thunder Chant - E's Jammy Jams
ruclips.net/video/LoEu9z1AcH4/видео.html
Song 5 : Take Me Out to the Ballgame - E's Jammy Jams
ruclips.net/video/akmwkCZ4j_8/видео.html
Просмотров: 3 860
Видео
CNC MILLING MACHINE - PART 5 - Z axis ( carriage and column , counter balance weight )
Просмотров 5 тыс.2 месяца назад
Hello, For this new video I finished and painted the two part of the Z axis who required to assemble, weld , align other stuff. I can't thank enough Sylvain from BLMI who makes this possible. I can't wait for the next step that is to start assemble and align all the rails and axis, an then build the cabinet and all the electrical stuff who is lying down on my desk . Stay tuned the musics : 1 - ...
DIY CNC MILL - PART 4 - Making, machining and painting chassis, x cross-slide and horizontal pattern
Просмотров 7 тыс.3 месяца назад
Hello everyone, before anything i want to give u huge thanks to Sylvain of BLMI that it would be impossible to be here now without him. In this video there is almost 2 month of work, you will see how a built, prepared for painting , painting and machining main parts for the machine. I hope you will take pleasure watching this video. In the next video we gonna be making the Z carriage and the co...
CNC Milling DIY - PART 3 - The column (z axis)
Просмотров 1,8 тыс.6 месяцев назад
Hello I hope you enjoyed the video, the perpendicularity is below the hundredth, so this is just the unbelievable !! The musics I use : 1 - LOST & FOUND - noizy ruclips.net/video/7C9xVLmcrMU/видео.html 2 - Chill Type Beat Missing You Mellow Chill Type Beat 2020
CNC MILL PROJECT - PART 2 - Horizontal frame
Просмотров 4 тыс.8 месяцев назад
This is the first manufacturing video , hope you enjoyed this one. The vertical colomn is already builded so stay tunned . Music : chimes - jeff kaale 1 - ● Jeff Kaale - Chimes 2 - ●Kronicle - You Already Know - open.spotify.com/artist/5GSFv... 3 - ●Kronicle - So Beautiful #cnc #cncmilling #cncmill #cncprojects #cncproject
BMX - New Frame Cult Ricany
Просмотров 4498 месяцев назад
Frame specs : Top tube : 21" Bottom Bracket height : 11,7" Chain stay : 13-13.3" Seat tube angle : 70° Head tube angle : 75.5° Music : - Bashfortheworld - Aztec Baby #bmx #bmxstreet #bmxlife #barspin #tailwhip
CNC MILL PROJECT - PART 1 - CAD and Prototype
Просмотров 2,1 тыс.8 месяцев назад
Machine specs : - cost : hope it will be under 3500€ at the end -linear carriage : 20 mm Hiwin Rail and 25 mm Hiwin for Y axis - NEMA 34 stepper motor - all in steel extrusions and steel plates exept the X carriage who is 25mm thick aluminium plates song : 1. [0:00] chill noons - Kronicle ●Kronicle - Chill Noons - open.spotify.com/artist/5GSFv... ●Soundcloud - soundcloud.com/the-chemist-10 2. [...
Mini Lathe Unboxing / first run after fixing problems
Просмотров 64810 месяцев назад
Hello, I hope you enjoy the first video, a lot of new videos are coming about new upgrades on the lathe, a welded chassis and fluid coolant system etc. Let me know if you have some tips below. See you soon
Quel projet ! Je me fais une PrintNC un peu améliorée mais là on boxe pas dans la même catégorie, Bravo !
Dead on arrival! No good, hopefully vevor paid for the new controller?
très bon travail mec je m'intéresse à en faire cnc et sa me donne des bonne idées! bravo!
@@seemanb2374 merci 🙏, à super content de motiver des personnes , si tu peux posté des petites vidéos !
你准备用什么控制系统
Mach 3 for beginning and maybe upgrading after , this is the part where I’m not as good as in mechanic …
não seria melhor retificar após concretar com granito epóxi?
de todos os projetos feitos em casa que eu já assisti o seu é o mais consistente, tenho certeza que você terá ótimos resultados!
Oh thank you for your support, gives me motivation , I’m currently assembling it !
Thank you for sharing your project
@@7hrt it’s with pleasure my friend , thank you for your comment
Granite.
Good job
@@7hrt 🙏🙏🙏
That is some nice work here. Huge project, must be overwhelming sometimes ! A little tip i saw around 8:00 with your late, you still have a little bulge on the center of your part after your faced your parts. your cutter insert tip is slightly under your lathe rotation axis, if you have a cutter height adjustment knob you can adjust it like this, and if you don't you can put a little shim half the width of the bulge left on the part under your cutter to bring it true to the axis of rotation
Very nice machine. I was also faced with the question of UHPC or mineral casting. After a few material tests, it was clear that epoxy was the better choice for my small mineral casting machine. For large machines, I would rather use UHPC for cost reasons. For UHPC, you need a good mixer, e.g. a feeding machine. Epoxy is easier to mix. Making the optimum epoxy mix yourself is not easy and requires trial pours. If anyone is interested, they can take a look at my video “DIY CNC milling machine made of mineral casting and ALU - Part 2”.
Thank you , you too I already saw few times your machines videos , they are really good ! And yeah what u said is exactly I think about UHPC concrete and Epoxy . I planned to do a small gantry cnc with epoxy casting only using my current CNC … Thanks for your comment
This is one of the best DIY VMC builds i have seen on RUclips. Great work, keep it up
thank you a lot, there still is some little weakness, for my next gantry mill project i will make some wedge and rail guide clamp for regidity and adjustments and improve the efficacity of the process of making the base ...
Amazing 😮😊❤
tu as un compte Google et tout, je suis espenté
Just a quick question. Why are u using epoxy sand/granite, why not using concrete? It is cheaper. Is epoxy having any better characteristics?
@@jovanbabic489 Nice question, yeah I thought a lot about , using UHPC concrete instead of epoxy granit but I would have had to arme the concrete who is not possible… and if not with all the vibration I’m not sure that the concrete would crack or something like that
@@ThomasLe_G Im gonna use concrete cuz 15% weight in epoxy for a several hundred kilos machine is expensive 🫰🫰🫰🫰 and I have the same worries, so I welded some rebar strategically so the concrete can grab onto it. If a building doesn't collapse with all the load and seismic stuff happening, I dont think concrete inside a steel tube that only helps minimize vibrations will either. Edit: also, UHPC, I dont know if its always the case, includes glass fiber strands in the mix and some additives to prevent contractions after it starts curing, so risk of crack propagation is reduced a lot. I saw a few machines with fully exposed UHPC where the precision surfaces are inserts in the mold.
Epoxy is more durable than concreate for this application and it's better at absorbing vibration
@@Matt-jz7to But is concrete sticking to the steel walls better than epoxy? What about the humidity in concrete, wouldn't that rust the wall interiors and delaminate from the walls and cause vibration? I think epoxy is better for this application (inside steel tubing). I was planning to to exactly the same
Bon courage pour les prochaines étapes !
@@AntoineGst merci pour ton message, oui ça va allez vite
Great work my friend are you planning to release the plans or to sell them
maybe I will put a link with plan, CAO and wiring diagram for free with a go found for people who wanna help
Thanks man keep going you are doing great
That thing is looking beautiful, almost done :))
thank you, it s true we are close to the first movements
Wow cant wait for the next part! well done
haha, thank's mate , yeah it'll be soon
Good job! Im currently building my moving gantry style machine and enjoy your build videos a lot. So far, my welding is causing everything warp like a potato chip XDDDD but hopefully I can rectify it later, although I will be doing it all by hand since I cant afford the professional machining bill :)) All the best to you with this project.
thank you for your comment, yeah heat welding make the structure warping, this is recommented to tag ( weld in point) every where and weld as cold as possible to avoid deformation. Someone told me that weld fast with high intansity avoid heat also . You could maybe take videos and post them on your channel ! have a good day
❤
🙏
Every engineering student dream!
yeah it s true, and it was mine for very long time !!
Warum hast du das nicht MAG geschweißt?
Joli projet ! Et on voit les soudures qui s'améliorent! Pour les goussets, on coupe généralement les pointes, pour ne pas qu'ils finissent tout pointu. C'est un peu plus facile à souder : la pointe ne fond pas en un instant quand on passe dessus, et le résultat est toujours un peu plus net 🙂
@@AntoineGst d’accord merci pour t’es conseils , dsl je croyais t’avoir répondu.
Sacrée rectif !
a oui la c'est du costaud !!
Красота! Смотрю и получаю удовольствие
Thank you dude , happy to read your comment
This is good work. It's surprising to see you carrying around the parts. Traditional castings of that size would be impossibly heavy. Looking forward to the next installment.
@@neffk thank you for your comment , and talking about weight, in the next video I will normally fill them up with epoxy granit , so it will be very heavy
No heat treatment after welding ?
@@qazzxc8813 I don’t have a such equipment…
@@ThomasLe_G so u cant forgot about precision
How would you go about heat treating such a weldment? I have annealed parts like that by building up hot wood fire around the part and after the fire is past is peak than cover it with ash or dirt and leave it there until the next day.
@@garyweber6413 yeah very nice idea but I think it s not hot enough and not the same heat every where . This is why I filled it with epoxy granit , for vibrations and stiffness
Y a pas à dire, la huron c'est vraiment la machine qu'il faut pour ce genre de projets. Beau boulot 👍
@@wechbros4558 merci, Oui en effet super machine , il y a quand même 50h d’usinage et encore je pense bcp plus
Really cool project! Are you going to fill the columns with epoxy Granit?
@@LightW Hello, thank you ! Yeah I already thought about I fear that the epoxy dilatation deform the surfaces and make them not flat anymore , without talking about the weight gains that may be not supported with my frame …
Epoxy doesnt deform. Even concreye cant do@@ThomasLe_G
@@qazzxc8813okay so maybe I will, depends if a found low cost epoxy .
@@ThomasLe_G I'd consider filling it with concrete. It's cheap, good at damping, and it usually shrinks during the cure, rather than expands.
@@perw12345 okay thank you for your constructive advice I will think about it
Это просто роскошь !💪
You think ? Thank you for the support
❤❤❤❤
Super video. Et super machine. Je viens de construire quelques choses un peu comme ça. Boucoup plus petit. Le mien j'ai remplis de sable. Comme ça i'lls y'a moins de vibration. J'ai fait la machine avec du sable et du résine epoxy et les bas et juste plein de sables sec.
@@davers1610 merci , oui je vois très bien c’est en effet une très bonne solution pour encaisser les vibrations , je me suis posé la question de remplir mes profilés en acier avec mais j’ai eu peur de la rétractation ou dillatztion de la résine ce qui pourrait rendre hors des spécification …
@@ThomasLe_G le miens j'ai du l'utiliser parce que je pouvais pas l'encaisser. Tout le reste que j'ai remplis de sable à marche aussi très bien
Tu es français ?
Salut , oui !
@@ThomasLe_G moi aussi je construis une fraiseuse viens parler sur insta :atelier_a_copeaux
Question: did you use annealing or another method of building up the metal before grinding? Otherwise, this entire structure will twist over time!!
@@SupersonicHeart you do you mean with annealing, the heat deformation are the main problem in welding method . We had to mill then rectify it using magnetic holding. Because if not we deform the surface when we magnet it so when we release the piece the surface is not flat anymore .
@@ThomasLe_GPour des bâtis industriels, mécano-soudé + usiné comme ta CN, on fait bien souvent un traitement de "stabilisation". La stabilisation consiste soit en un traitement thermique : recuit au four, soit mécanique : par vibration de la structure. L'objectif de la stabilisation est de supprimer les contraintes internes qui ont été générées par le soudage, qui se libèrent pendant l'usinage, et aussi dans le temps. Parce qu'effectivement, une structure avec des contraintes résiduelles bougera dans le temps. Ta planéité de 5/100 ème sera peut-être un peu moins bonne dans quelques mois/années, simplement parce que l'acier se relaxera. Mais pas d'inquiétude, On fait surtout une "stab" pour moins se galérer sur les passes de finition à l'usinage. Pour ce qui est de bouger dans le temps, c'est assez négligeable. C'est pour ça qu'on le voit jamais sur des constructions amateur. Très beau projet en tout cas. Ça fait plaisir de voir des français avec des envies mécaniques !
Включите автоматические субтитры. Спасибо.
Okay , listened for the next video
That new Z-Carriage/head design is looking tres bien, but please do yourself a favor and don't weld with a t-shirt. Welding releases a ton of UV, you're basically falling on your knees and begging for skin cancer, and it's just not worth it. I know it's super hot right now, but something with long sleeves will save your skin for the next couple of decades. Neat design on the endcaps by the way. Also, that Huron is awesome.
Thank you for your comment, Yes u right and I know, I'll pay attention for the next time but it's not for tomorrow because I did too many hours welding haha. Yes the huron is something a challenge to adjust but really cool machine .
You're doing good 👍 As an mechanical engineer and cnc maker, I really liked your work. Keep up the good work, you will get good results from your cnc.
Hey, happy to know engineer watching my videos, thanks for your support, the next video you pop up soon with good stuff to watch !
I wish people stopped making c frames
What is c frames ?
@@ThomasLe_G the type of structure you build, think you jumped the gun too soon if you don't know that, how long was the design process?
@@jonjon3829 I don't understand what u r telling, I'm French speak normally please
@@ThomasLe_G lets try google : Les cadres C sont de la merde
Do you have an alternate suggestion?
Wonderful! You are making super precision machine! Looking forward your next step and completed machine~
Oh thank you , I appreciate your support , maybe I will ask you some electricals questions ! Haha
hows this not getting more attention? this project is really cool!
I don't now my friend but I hop this video will , thank you !!
Because, among other things, do you have the type of equipment he is using to make it ?
@@MrStevos I can't reply, what youmean by type??
@@ThomasLe_G Do you have the welding skills to make this & then a Large enough milling machine accurate to .001" & then an equally large surface grinder, even more accurate, to do what I see being built? It's billed as a DIY project! Can You "Do It Yourself" ?
@@MrStevos interesting, just I want to mention that I did everything alone except all the machining that I had by the way anticipate during the CAD. I think term DIY has evolved a lot for a long time now and each one try to do it like their way and everyone gives himself the means he wants.
Use welding rod 7018 is easy and better flow for that kind of steel! Good job! Keep Going!!!
okay thank you for your advice I will do it for the next welds
Bon courage à toi pour ton projet de cnc Ça va être du costaud. Pierre
merci bcp
A bit of advice. First of all, that base and column is really well designed, you didn't skimp on the basics, which many people do, great job. Your table is a bit of a mess though, if you're not going with a thicker table, which is understandable, you should brace the sides of it with some 10-20mm strips, otherwise you've just made a spring, especially with how you placed the blocks. Second, your Z is questionable. The Box section is definitely a better approach than screwing a couple of plates together, it's going to be more rigid, especially if you add some bracing, but I would highly recommend against those 2,2KW router spindles for this, they are waaay too fast. You won't have the torque to drive anything bigger than a 4-6mm endmill in steel, and then you won't have the speed to feed that endmill anywhere near where you should, you'll just either crash or burn them out. Get a decent spindle that is actually designed for this, if you want to see how these spindles do in steel, watch This Old Tony's video on his router trying to do just that. Your design will do better with a spindle speed of 5-10K max, not min, and you'll need something a lot more torque-y.
Hello ! Okay thank you for all those advices , you re right for the table but I wouldn’t do this in fact , I’ll weld a table well designed and rectify it for better rigidity and homogeneity of the machine. I will quickly show the CAD of this in the table video . Although, for the Z axis you right I’m a bit lost for the spindle , I understand that you don t recommend me to use a 2,2 kw spindle but one with more torque , I have some questions so : - what means braces ? Bracing ? - and for the spindle should I use a servo motor who drive a bloc spindle with I belt ? Thanks mate
@@ThomasLe_G Bracing meaning adding plates between the Z-plate and the box section and spindle mount, just like you did with the base of the column. I think when you say rectify you mean a similar, or the same thing. And for the spindle, do you need the capabilities of a servo? Do you think you will do rigid tapping or thread milling? If not, a simple 100-200€ 3 phase motor will be more than enough, somewhere around the 2.2KW 3k RPM range should do you well. Something like Artisan makes used for his milling machine. As for the Spindle itself, you could look into making it yourself, or trying to find something used, are you planning to machine mostly steel? Depending on what you'll use it for, you could try to get a replacement benchtop mill cartridge, and drive that with V-belts. Paulimot used to sell a DIN2080 SK30 replacement spindle cartridge for ~200€ but I don't know if they still do, depending on how precise you want it you'll have to look a bit further. By the way, I wouldn't bother with the epoxy granite for filling the base, I'd go with expanding grout instead, that should be a fraction of the price for similar performance.
good luck with the project!
Thank man ! Maybe I will ask you some question later
@@ThomasLe_G Sure, feel free to ask anything!
Jolie fabrication, mais tu manques d'entrainement à l'arc et on chanfreine pas les angles intérieurs. Mais l'usinage fait rêver...
Merci c’est mon deuxième module que je soude donc je suis débutant , mais comment tu as une bonne pénétration avec des plaques de 20mm alors ?
@@ThomasLe_Gton cordon doit faire 20x20 (hauteur x largeur) avec une apothème de( formule de l’hypoténuse de Pythagore ), en chanfreinant tu risques des d'avoir des bulles. A mon avis i tu veux de la péné soude avec de la 3,2 mm avec une bonne intensité et rapidement( souder vite avec de l'intensité apporte moins d’énergie que lentement à faible intensité pour la déformation), fait plusieurs passes mais vue l’épaisseur tu pourra finir a la 4mm , si tu veux des cordons plus solide soude à la basique c'est plus chiant pour la mise en œuvre mais ça fait des soudure plus résistantes et blanchi bien le métal avant soudure. Trouve des éprouvettes (des chutes) pour répéter avant de passer sur ta pièce. et vas sur la page de rockd@cier c'est très complet comme cours de soudage.
tu travailles dans la l 'entreprise qui à la grosse rectifieuse?
@@satoishii4466d’accord merci pour toutes c’est infos après l’épaisseur d’en dessous est de 5mm donc je suis quand même très septique de passer en 4mm à faire des cordons de 20x20
@@satoishii4466non je ne travaille pas dans cette entreprise
Cut it in 1/2. 😅 Ice to bar was clean 🪥.
thank's bro , nah I'm not as crazy as him
Tres Bien
Merci 🙏
raw looks nice! 🤘
thank's bro🤘🤘
Lourd 🔥
Merci 🙏
2min17s de bonheur