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I agree about the logos, it puts off the aesthetics. That being said, all of them except the Windlass makers mark are shallow and seem easy enough to polish out, though I never got around to doing it. Also, the TOTO marks are based on the original, though the rendition looks very modern (laser maybe?), the original looks more engraved or hammered in, to my untrained eyes at least. It came with a very good edge, though I always redo edges myself to get them just right.

At some point in the near future I'll probably be going to the Royal armouries again as I've been a few times before so I'll have a good look at it myself. I recently bought the Tod Cutler type 14 and the same can be sed for sharpness, its a very nice sword and comes with a good edge, I cut clean through 2 bottles with it straight out the box but just did little extra sharpening and it's now like a razor blade

Indeed. Like many shields in medieval art, although usually the faces are in relief.

It's big. Exterior diameter is 24 cm or just under 10 inches ! It's definitely big enough to fit a gauntleted hand comfortably. Though it isn't based on any precise measurements, the proportions are guestimated from the artwork. The fact it's so large is one reason why I think it's plausible some of these bosses were made of wood. The fact it's so big means it's far from the hand, so even if the boss is penetrated, your hand is less vulnerable. Not to mention these are often shown carried by fully armored men with gauntlets.

@@philodeinos7536 ok thanks

Those actually do show up in English and Flemish art

No, I am half American, half Belgian.

@philodeinos7536 Well, good review. I like your cord wrapping on the fedder grip. Thanks for sharing. I've got the little fashion with the knuckle bow. It superb, easily one of my favorites. Again, good review. Don't think I've seen any other on this model, so thanks!

Thanks man ! It means a lot coming from you as you are significantly more advanced at cutting than I am. I really enjoy your reviews too.

Thank you ! You may be right. I used what I had without worrying about authenticity of the materials. If indeed they were sometimes made of wood, then I suspect that turning would be the simplest way, as this was widely known and used to make wooden bowls for example. However a solid turned piece seems vulnerable to splitting. That being said, wooden bosses made from one solid piece existed in antiquity. I agree that strips would be possible, and stronger, however, I'm not sure there is any evidence of composite wood used in shields of that time...

​@@philodeinos7536 The pieces of turned wood umbos from the hjortspring shields of antiquity are made of a barleycorn shaped piece of wood with half-sphere bowl cavity. This means that vertical hits on the umbo would impact the thickest part that wasn't hollowed out to reduce chances of splitting. Same goes for the Al Fayoum "Roman" shield boss. Other options that would be less prone to splitting would be coiled basketry with a hard gourd shell cover glued on (this method was actually used in the Philippines for helmets/hard hats.) Probably a multitude of solutions were in use including methods based on cooperage. Anyway keep up the good work!

I understand the temptation, sir.

Great find, thank you for sharing !

@@philodeinos7536 my pleasure! thank you for the video! i've been very interested in shields like these lately. :) A reenactor friend told me some years ago that heater shields weren't a thing anymore in the 15th century and i believed him since i saw alot of the small pavise shields used by reenactors, but i don't like how those look... i'm glad to have found out there were still a good amount of heater type shields around, bossed mostly but that's even better because i also love the viking round shield and how it handles. :) probably gonna try and make one similar to yours in the near future then!

@@GunsNRoosendael I'm happy to know that interest in late medieval shields is growing ! It's surprising that they don't get more love given how many people are interested in that time period (in hema, reenactment, academia...). Feel free to let me know how the build goes, I'd love to see what you come up with.

@@philodeinos7536 started building some viking shields after i saw a tutorial from Skallagrim, and grown a love for shields ever since. Are you on instagram by any chance?

It is a frickin' awesome sword. Enjoy it !

My pleasure! I will. I have materials waiting to be turned into a shield. But unfortunately I'm also a full time student and working part time so I can only do so much on youtube for the moment. I've already made ten shields from across European history and hope to make many more shields in the future, especially from the late medieval period as it's full of shield variety and most are poorly known ; people assume that with full plate armor shields were at best a very minor part of warfare at that time. And even if they were more minor in terms of number of soldiers carrying them, they also seem to have been more varied in form and probably also quite specialized in function. Definitely a huge topic!

The grip is 10 cm long.

Thanks ! The trick is to cut the leather just right, little bit by bit while checking the fit between each "snip". Once the fit is perfect the gluing part is easy.

Nope, not yet. I'm planning on cutting some green dowels but I won't put it through anything too rough.

Thanks for the comment Kane ! I'm also very curious to see what they will come up with for this second batch. I saw and enjoyed the review you did of the hanger and longsword from the first batch, very precise and detailed.

@@philodeinos7536 Thank you! From what I have seen, the second batch has that type XIIa grete swerde of war (IX. 915) and the type XVIII arming sword (IX.1426) and a rapier.

Me too ! In fact your form is better than mine, my footwork is really horrible here xD But we got better ! I'm also proud of our managing this kind of stuff with virtually no protective equipment, really rough and tumble sparring !

They are from Black Fencer blackfencer.com/en/ If you're in the US there is also Purpleheart Armoury www.woodenswords.com/Synthetic_s/1919.htm I believe there is also a distributor of Black Fencer synthetic wasters in the US but I'm not sure who... They have plenty of models on offer, but the swords used here are both customs, which they're happy to make for you at a fraction higher price.

@@philodeinos7536 update we got our swords from purpleheart armory as I'm in the US and they have been great so far he got a synthetic longsword and i got a synthetic sidesword

This is the edge the way it comes "sharp". I've since appleseeded it and refined it, but it didn't make a massive difference for cutting milk cartons. You can see me cutting with the touched up edge in this video : ruclips.net/video/NkSxvDD6uOE/видео.html

More like improvised because I didn't have anything else lying around ! I will have to make a dedicated stand though :)

Well, that's what I was wondering... I also tried using it to cut some wood and I find it really bad for that job : the edge bevel is so steep that it cannot fit through the cut it makes and it pops right back out, with no depth to the cut. It has a bevel more like a splitting tool but lacks the mass to split wood. So, I thought these might be used as tools but I cannot figure out for what. It does cut soft material that can bend out of the way of the bevel pretty well (cloth, cork, bread and cheese...). So far I think it's cutting ability is limited both as a tool and as a weapon. I suspect it can do harm to delicate targets like hands and face but not much more. So my conclusion is that in the end it is pretty much specialized as a stabbing weapon. But I'll have to try more things and perhaps I'm overlooking certain possible applications as a tool.

Also, I'm curious what makes you think the earlier ones were more specialized weapons ? The taper of the grip being reversed (and arguably optimized for reverse/point down grip) ? Or something else ? Thanks for your comment !

I agree with the general assessment, yes. And I think your point about how to carry them in the hand is important, as my vertical grip kite shield is basically impossible to carry comfortably without a strap. As to use in formations however, people have pointed out to me before that a horizontal grip is better for pushing and staying locked in formation but I'm uncertain as you can brace the shield against the body and push even with a vertical grip. I'd love to experiment more but unfortunately I don't have enough sparring partners to do much group combat...

Yes it is ! Not much, but just touched up the edge a bit ;)