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Dashbord 👎👎👎👎👎👎👎

Too many people listen to too many people. I test-rode a Triumph and Ducati... according to The Internet, I should have loved them, but they just didn't feel right to me... maybe I'm boring, but I just feel better riding a Japanese bike.

Most ADV bikes are heavier by nature . They aint motto cross bikes or duel sports as well . This DRZ is not nor ever be a AVD bike .

How do you deal with oil draining onto the exhaust when changing the filter?

Ive had to seal spaces holding air and fuel before and like the approach you've taken here. It'd be great to see a follow up to this project after getting a few fatigue cycles on the rim

Do you have a link to the american version of the page?

I'd rather use a $15 throttle lock.

You usually have to drill the stock rivets out on these mufflers and shake the tails out then install new ones with a heat resistant sealant, something like 'kneedit' works well. Otherwise for the money they really aren't that bad.

If you are below 65 mph drz400 is solid. Or honestly take a good look at the crf300l rally. My drz was sold because it lacked power at anything above 65 mph, and made my hands go numb. Gear box ratios are to close for a good dual sport/adv split. Have to choose which end of the spectrum you get. New update might address some issues but its unknown for now. Personally my dr650 was my fav followed by the drz400.

DRZ and "lightweight" in the same sentence. LOL

If youre looking at a single cylinder do it all, im surprised youre jot thinking about the new KTM ADV 390, it looks the bomb, looks super capable, adjustable suspension, great ground clearance and that engine is already proven. Feel the DRZ will be not a good one bike garage bike

Would like to ride with you but you're a bit far away. Always thought your were taking a bit of a risk alone on some of those trails. Especially with a big bike.

Here in Thailand I have both an Africa Twin and a CRF250 Rally. I love them both but if I could only have one of them for here it would be the CRF (where I'd choose the AT in America). I'm hoping the new drz is sold here (the SM). I thought a new Transalp with non adjustable suspension was poor value when I could pay 30% less for a used AT with adjustable suspension.

Drz is a kids bike to me. A Jimny is awesome. I would stick to the Transalp personally.

DRZ 400 is a very good bike and very reliable I had an original 2000 model and rode almost exclusively in the dirt and it was a great hill climber. The reason we got the 400 was the electric start but the bike was pretty good at everything and was easy to maintain and comfortable to ride for a long period. They are basically still the same which is good.

i think you have to delete this video

The DRZ is a dual sport, not an ADV. I wish people would not conflate the two. You are not going to want to ride all day on the highway on the DRZ.

If we all bought what we needed and not what we wanted we'd be eating deep fried crickets and riding Vespas.

For offroading it's a no brainer to get a DRZ over a Transalp, for on road riding I'd pick the supermoto version over an adventure bike any day, but I think the question is how fun the regular DRZ is on road. I've never ridden a dualsport, or a thumper for that matter, so I wouldn't know. I do understand your situation with "downgrading" to a bike with better suspension, I'm considering that with my XSR 700 too. With my full license I could get a used CBR600RR that'll run circles around it while getting money back on the trade.

Bad news, looks like CC for Spain has disappeared from the official 2025 specs 😔

Definitely no CC on the 2025 Transalp, including Spain, Portugal and everywhere else.

By the way, I forgot to tell you you have a good point how about trying 19” front wheel and 17 in the rear for the Transalp ! see what how would you go about it … I think your bike would be more agile and lower to the ground… I know that would generate a lot of interest… anyways food for thought… 👍

If you buy Suzuki for content your channel would grow X 3 … but then you’ll have to decide if you’re by the super Moto or the indoor version and if you buy the Enduro, then you have to be doing more Offroad than you are for sure! As a matter fact, I wish you put up more content on the Transalp, specially with Offroad stuff and feedback on suspension riding . PS! Ignore the naysayers…

I own a SV650. Coming from Honda and a disaster with a Triumph Street Cup and a terrible experience with the official dealer. The SV was the only I can afford by the moment and use it as my everyday vehicle (my wife needs the car). Completely in love with Suzuki and expecting the DRZ S or SM arrive because it will be a perfect second bike to enjoy in holydays and weekend rides.

Single cylinder moped for shorts 🤮🤮

Same reason I just ride road on the MC. I wanted to go off road and explore, but don't have anybody to ride with. On the road I'm fine riding alone, and I ride with mates from time to time. I thought about getting a 250-400CC dedicated off road bike (really don't fancy the idea of picking up my 1200 cc scrambler over and over and over again off road) - but again the risk profile isn't to my liking. I think if I had friends near by who are into riding dirt, I'd get a dedicated bike and do it once in a while. But the twisties and roads around here (Kiyosato/Hokuto/Kirigamine etc.) are just too much fun ;-) For dirt I have an e MTB that is a ton of fun as well as a crew to ride with. Gives me my off road fix to be honest. Hope you find someone to ride with. Always happy to ride on the road with you if you ever down Nagano/Yamanashi way and want company.

I wish I lived in Kansai region! I'm living in Niigata.

Spot on Kairyu + retaining tubes. The only real change is external temp gauge. Seems like the only argument for upgrading current TA’22 I own 🤪

Look Like a Little of road training world be Good For You e Red for now

Hope they are avail in Australia , we have an absurdly scarce oem and aftermarket accessories available.

I imagine they may also help keep a rider's legs warmer on super cold rides as they will insulate the leg from the metal gas tank. And you will not now wear the paint away.

In homogenous countries, foreigners are foreigners, they are different. It is what it is, you are not comparing apples to apples, you are looking at the situation from a western perspective with long colonial history that exposed Western societies with other people. Those other people became subjects of Western Colonial Powers and the mixing of people. "The British Empire and its Realm"

This product is in Japanese but is not made by a Japanese company. 3:12

OEM is the only way to go.

Weird question, what gloves are those? They look nice I appreciate the perspective and background you provide in your videos. Thanks!

I learned a lot, u saved me hours of research, gracias!

Thanks for the video, and your insights. I too worked on motorcycles professionally for many years, and concur with pretty much all of your comments. I too change the oil once, halfway in between the 12,000 km service intervals, without changing the filter. I also have a white TA, with the optional wind deflectors and bear grip footpegs (thrown in with the bike at purchase, but took months to arrive, due to demand apparently) so your bike closely resembles mine. I am a few hundred kms past 20,000 now, here in rural South Australia. I have been running the standard Honda oil, with an eye to any potential issue/warranty, but will add to your references to "a smoother engine" by stating that my engine became smoother, in both vibration and sound, around the 5,000 km mark, so that may not necessarily relate to the oil schedule. It just became 'sweeter' around that distance. I too have a long history (well over 50 years...) of sport bikes (Ducati) and also whinged about the lack of an oil window (which my old 1995 Cagiva Elefant 750 has) as do all my other bikes. Including a 1980 Pantah... The one thing I do differently with my oil changes is remove the bashplate first (mine is a B&B Australian plate) then a quick ride to make sure the oil is freshly moved. Keeping any impurities in suspension being desirable immediately before the change, rather than collecting in the sump 'snout'. But your emphasis on changing the oil whilst freshly heated, and removing the filler before draining, are good tips. The faster flow during draining is worth the effort. I drape a cloth over the filler hole when draining, as I leave it to drain for 10 minutes or so. Plus I lean the bike left and right to remove as much oil as possible. I believe the bike needs to be upright (a spirit level on the side of the tyre a good check) and the dipstick placed in the hole, but not screwed in to check the level. Thanks for the video - it gives a lot of the same tips which I have been giving for many years! Good job. Some well earned praise from an old codger, who started out on British bikes! Which of course is how I became a bike mechanic in the first place... 😊

I agree that the Transalp is better to ride than some of its competitors, but none are as dirt-capable as the Aprilia 660 Tuareg. But the Transalp is much better on the road, and the Tuareg cost half as much again than the TA in Australia when I bought my Honda. Tuareg $22,500 as against $15,740 on the road for the Honda. But, no matter where you live, you will inevitably be doing more miles on bitumen than dirt. Well done with your research on the silly air filter access on the TA. I have only done mine once, and went with the K&N, just as I have on all my bikes. Dirt miles aren't the only measure of how quickly the air element gets dirty - it of course also relates to whether you are riding alone, or behind others. I suspect the oil component of the K&N may compare favourably with the paper element, but have no 'science' to support that - only well over 200,000 kms with K&Ns on other bikes. I have done a lot of dirt road miles on my TA, now 20,200 kms all up, and when I replaced my filter (at 13,000) it wasn't that dirty at all. With many dirt miles, but not so many following (and little traffic out here) I will only clean mine every 12,000 or so, so not a monthly requirement. More like 6 - 9 months. Following a group through the desert may be a different story, but I tend to be mostly solo. Just going shopping here is about a 70 kms round trip, almost half dirt (I can go via bitumen, but choose not to) so it is doing this several times a week, plus longer rides. But I can almost forgive this silly air filter access, as it doesn't dirty that quickly, with a fairly convoluted intake, and yes - it has cleaner air coming in for the most part, compared to the under-seat option. Thanks for your experimentation - I will look closer at your ideas next time. But yes, they certainly overdid the number of fasteners! I counted 10 x panels, and at least 50 fasteners, when I changed mine, and it took almost two hours, going slowly and methodically the first time. With a fair bit of muttering...

Why do some want cruise control? It is a motorcycle to be ridden and controlled by the rider.

CFmoto 450MT, why not just under the seat? :)

Wow , why so long .. ten’s take 2 mins

You finally did it Triumph! I’m sold!!!

FAST!!!! 10min Airbox Access.... Worst than my GSX-R and thats a full on race bike!

The design of holding plastic parts with tenons and grommets is not a good idea.😢 i have had the previous version of the Transalp (1996) and after a few years most of the plastic tenons broke. 😮 The best way to avoid that is the lubricate the tenons with silicon grease.

Terrible

Enjoyed that video, useful insight. TBH unless you do a lot of dusty off road I don’t see the huge issue that it’s made out to be. Even if you change the air filter once a year it’s not exactly difficult is it? Just takes a bit of patience.

Good video. I almost bought the TA, but the air filter nonsense was a deal breaker. It really is ridiculous...and I don't think they fixed it in the 2025 model. Anyway, it's otherwise a great bike that needs a few tweaks to make it outstanding.

It's better to buy tubeless

Personally don’t care for cruise control , just relaxing the grip solves most hand tingles and aches 😊 Aftermarket for those who must have it , probably about $500? KLR riders used to use an aftermarket budget mechanical lock on their throttle , probably sells for the TA. If I was to trade my 23 TA for the upcoming 25 model here in Australia they would give me $10500 max on the $16000 minimum ride away 25 model . That’s $5500 to get cruise control , a better dash , and a new headlight design 😟 Think I will just keep the 23 model and put the saved money towards food and rent …things getting tough down under 😊

Honda gpt old and fat. Not 210kg