Видео

Well, thanks for your comment. Please note that not every project can be a full success, even if it took a lot of time. The good news for you is, that not all videos from me have a long duration.

The input voltage must be about 2V higher than the output voltage, otherwise input and output are nearly the same. Also, the precision trimmers need to be turned 10 times for the full range. Also, the precision trimmers give no feedback, if the mechanical slider inside is at one end of the range.

@@sirflooz Thanks. My input voltage is actually 5 V and I want to step down to 4V. I actually turned it about 20 times to get the voltage to start dropping and managed to get it down to 4V, But now the current limit does nothing. One board just makes a crackling noise in my bench supply when I short the output. The other board just reads 3 amps output, even though my supply is set to 1 amp.

@@ArcanePath360 Now you know the precision trimmers! The CC circuit of the module is supplied by a 78L05 5V voltage regulator, so your input voltage must be 2V higher = about 7V to operate. Crackling sound could be caused by unwanted oscillations, as I had them in my video. Have fun.

@@sirflooz So it is like an Arduino, where you need to supply at least 7V to the barrel jack to get the regulated 5V? It seems like the more I learn, the less I know. What's weird is the LED shows it is limiting current when I turn it all the way down, but a motor still shows the same output and runs the same... Wait... OMG I just tried it with my bench supply set to 7V and you are right! For the first time I got the current reducing function to work! Thanks a bunch man!

@@ArcanePath360 You are welcome. Keep digging into electronics. It not always easy, but a lot of fun!

My repaired indicator still works fine. Just make sure, that the rear contact is not longer than the original! Two nuts were too much and it rubbed against the engine, so i switched to just one nut, secured by screw locking fluid.

A good idea! I probably consider this on a future project!

Yeah, that is already on my wish / to do list...

Thanks for dropping a comment! But please have a detailed look on the schematic of the module (can be found on the net). There you see, that the XL4015 has only a voltage regulator, while the OPAMP is used to sense the current and to generate a corresponding control voltage for the XL4015 to add the current limiting function. Therefore my temperature drift test makes sense. The cold temperature is good to show the trend of the error. Of course it is no scientific experiment. Let's have fun in electronics!

Thanks!

In part 2 (ruclips.net/video/Jix7GSIalQM/видео.html) you see, that I have fixed it. But be aware, that the gap between the tip of the connection of the indicator and the engine is very small. So, an improvised connection cannot be any higher than the original setup. Otherwise the rubber cap rubs against the engine and gets damaged.

Sorry, I don't offer free engineering services.

A good point! But I think I used a switched mode power supply to supply the board. Thank you!

It is a funny sound effect, which you find here and there in my videos.

I soak them in brake-cleaner or gasoline for 24h or more. Even better is to clean them in an ultrasonic bath - but due to a lack of funds (and donations) I don't have one.

@@sirflooz Thanks. Looks like producing these videos are stressing you out, not worth it. There are plenty of videos on Vespa maintenance in youtube with the same information that anyone can find, so no need to put your health at risk.

Tut mir leid das zu hören! Mein mahnendes Video hast du offenbar leider zu spät gesehen. Kopf hoch! Ich hoffe du holst dir ein besseres Bike und sicherst es mit einem oder besser zwei guten Schlössern sowie einem Tracker (meine Empfehlungen siehe Videobeschreibung).

@@sirflooz Deine Empfehlungen zu Schlössern sehe ich, aber hast du auch ne Empfehlung für nen Tracker?

The Vespa PX has an old style air filter. This filter needs to have an oil film on the mesh at all times, to catch the dust particles.

@@sirflooz just put it back to gether , no oil .do it tomorrow ,cant seem to get my panels to fit back properly ,allways a gap quatre of an inch at the back, any idea. thanks for your reply?

I now released a video about the PX air filter for more details: ruclips.net/video/6obxl9UZcRs/видео.html

No idea. Thanks for the appreciation!

warped break disc is the issue. You need to replace the brake disc and pads and then make sure you do not brake hard whilst its bedding in

Thanks for your detailed comment! Great that it helped! I use Fusion 360 in free version too. Nice hint! But I really like the open source fact of Blender. So, no restrictions, like in Fusion 360 semi free. ;)

Welcome to the wonderful hobby of electronics. Regarding the capacitor, the value depends on the current you draw. 680uF is a good starting point. A lower value might work, a higher value might be necessary - test it. But make sure to always use low ESR capacitors here (the market provides normal and low-ESR electrolytics, Tantal is usually always lowESR, Ceramic capacitors depends on type). I hope this helps. The web provides also good notes about low ESR on SMPS (switch mode power supply). Stay curious.

@@sirflooz Thank you.

No, you normally do not need to add that capacitor, and more often, adding one is needed for higher output, say 2A or above, IF your load can't tolerate the resultant ripple. I would just ignore the example in the video because there are other options for less expensive and smaller, lighter weight, modules to regulate a mere 90mA.

@@stinkycheese804 Thank you for your advice.

Thanks for the nice feedback! I made the tool myself. It is just a piece of steel band, a 90° bend at the end and there a gap with the size of the screw that I have made with a file. You can probably do it yourself.

These models have a special starter protection device, which could cause your no starter issue. The device is located under the front cover and is usually in a pink housing. To check, if this is the cause it would be possible to bypass this device. But to do this you should ask an experienced car electrician after showing him/her the correct schematic sheet if you are not an expert yourself. Good luck!

I know of this - I have a simplified starter circuit diagram showing just the 9 components. In fact previously my still young 2015 PX125 had very hard bright green oxidation hidden behind the main fuse or relay (next to the battery) - perhaps due to my winter riding - so I will strip it out to check this soon at my annual spring clean service.. But the concept of merely pressing the horn to re-establish the electric-start circuit is still comical to me..@@sirflooz

Agree, some grease would have helped. Thanks for sharing your insights!

Wow, thanks for sharing your experience! In deed, there is not much space to the engine. But I shortened the bolt as much as possible and finally used just one nut, secured with thread locker. This solution works for me fine since the repair.

Welcher Schalter? Falls das Relais gemeint ist, so schaltet es den Anlasser.

Appreciated. Well, I have measured it on an ESR meter.

Well, I really went the long way. But I have tried the procedure you describe, but it did not help. See parts 2 to see the details: ruclips.net/video/R9ARoNzmOzc/видео.html.

This also my first Anduril 2 UI flashlight, and I am really amazed by it. I use it really often and i really like, that I can scale the brightness according to the light situation. I really appreciate your comment. Thank you for that!

@@sirflooz, did you adjust the thermal or voltage ranges to get additional lumens and runtime on the turbo before it steps down? I saw a couple videos, but haven't done it yet. The last one I saw, was the most informative by @smotheredchrome, and looked reasonably uncomplicated. Haven't tried it though.

@@Gman1024 No, the FL is not modded by be. Thermal circuit is to protect the LEDs from thermal exodus. The lumens of that light is more than sufficient for me. The only option I see here would be to replace the LEDs with a batch of the same type of LEDs which have more lm/W (see datasheet). But I think you would just improve the efficiency of the FL with it, bc the thermal barrier is still the same.

Thanks and same to you sir 😊.

@@azharmukhi5894 You are so kind (and the only one who answered). Thanks for that!

Thanks for commenting! Yes, if a part is glued with heat resistant glue, brute force method is my method. Hehe... ;)

Casing is plastic, connectors have metal shielding.

Is it safe?

The XL4015 IC datasheet states +8 to +36V DC input possible, BUT you need to have a look what the manufacturer of the module states regarding the max. input voltage. For example the input capacitor must be able to withstand the input voltage.

Nice try, but instead I would listen to some techno music!

True, low ESR capacitors are essential when it comes to SMPS.

Yes, after swapping the the old carb with a new one, the problem was fixed!

Gern geschehen!

Try 24V in and 1.5V 3A out if you want to have a heating side effect ;)

Thanks for your input. But in fact the pin connects to +12V TI relay and the spring at the top connects to earth (chassis). The locking hook has no electrical function.

Im sorry but you are incorrect. The spring is too flimsey for a good earth piaggio would never use that. If you keep the hook clean and area on panel where it hooks to. You will never have a problem. Thinking the spring clip is the earth is a bit of a school boy error.

That’s so funny.. 😂😂🤣 that clip just holds the panel on .. the electrical part is the front pin that enters the frame through the hole… good luck