- Видео 21
- Просмотров 197 964
Iron Jonesy
Добавлен 22 дек 2012
Hi! I'm Alec, a blacksmith and self taught machinist, with a love for antique machine tools and manufacturing history. Join me for regular workshop antics from machining and forge work to restoration, all while I grow and develop an 1890s belt driven machine shop.
Instagram - @iron_jonsey
"First get a clear notion of what you plan to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it"
Henry Maudslay, machine tool pioneer, 1771-1831
Instagram - @iron_jonsey
"First get a clear notion of what you plan to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it"
Henry Maudslay, machine tool pioneer, 1771-1831
Victorian Radial Drilling Machine Restoration PART 3 - Extracting Seized Screws & Removing the Arm
More progress on the radial! I wanted to get the arm off and lie it down so it could be filled with a derusting solution. The first step towards trying to get it to swivel about its column. Before that I had to carefully remove the head traversing rack so it can be cleaned up with the other loose parts.
Cheers!
Cheers!
Просмотров: 17 390
Видео
Cutting an Internal Keyway with an 1890s Shaper and Forging the Tool!
Просмотров 22 тыс.Месяц назад
Using my Redman traveling head shaper to deepen the keyway in a large flat belt pulley. I also needed to make a slotting tool for the job - this was forged, to keep things as historically appropriate as practical! Link to the fantastic video by @Rustinox explaining shaper speeds and generating the speed chart. - ruclips.net/video/sBKe7cW6OHc/видео.html Thank you for watching!
Machining a Large Flat Belt Pulley with my Antique Lathe
Просмотров 53 тыс.Месяц назад
Making full use of the old F. Pratt lathe today to bore out this large split pulley and also getting the first use out of the crane! (sort of) Cheers! Instagram - @iron_jonsey (yes its meant to be spelt wrong)
Hand Forging a Victorian Workshop Jib Crane - The last parts and Assembly
Просмотров 13 тыс.2 месяца назад
Today I finish the Jib crane! This is going to be very handy above my old lathe for manoeuvring heavy chucks, faceplates and parts on and off it. Thanks for watching! Watch for updates on instagram - @iron_jonsey
Victorian Radial Drilling Machine Restoration PART 2 - A Sticky Pinion
Просмотров 8 тыс.3 месяца назад
I've been making some great progress on the radial project. Lots of parts freeing up and coming off, including getting out the big guns to have a go at the stuck pinion. Thanks for watching! Apologies for the sketchy audio in this, It was a very windy day!
Victorian Radial Drilling Machine Rescue PART 1 - Initial Disassembly
Просмотров 9 тыс.4 месяца назад
This is one of my favourite machines, and probably in the worst condition of them all - Fully seized and missing parts. This is the first instalment of the long road from taking this radial drill from the verge of being scrapped, to drilling holes again. Thanks!
Lineshaft Driven Machine and Blacksmith Shop Tour
Просмотров 10 тыс.5 месяцев назад
A proper look around my workshop as it currently stands! Around 50 feet of shafting and 9 running belt driven machines packed into a garage sized shed. Thanks for watching! instagram - iron_jonsey
Forging a Jib Crane for my Victorian Metal Lathe
Просмотров 7 тыс.7 месяцев назад
What started as a basic need for a basic lift gear has turned into a full on historic project. After seeing the crane at The Welsh Slate Museum I had to have one of my own. In this video I go though the steps of how these kind of cranes may have been made in the 19th century, while hopefully building one that will be useful in the workshop! Thanks for watching. If you haven't been to visit the ...
1890s Shaper Rebuild and First Run! - Belt Driven Machine Shop
Просмотров 11 тыс.7 месяцев назад
After making a bush and some shaft straightening, its finally time to reassemble the Boynton & Plummer shaper.
Belt Driven Blacksmiths Ring Rollers Restoration!
Просмотров 7 тыс.8 месяцев назад
I wanted to put a video together to show all the work I had to do to get these ring rollers running. Some major parts were missing, and this is the story of how I made them and returned the machine to its original configuration! thanks for watching! Instagram- iron_jonsey
Square Threading a New Leadscrew Nut for my Boynton & Plummer Shaper - Belt Driven Machine Shop
Просмотров 4,6 тыс.8 месяцев назад
Working on some repairs to a B&P Shaper currently in the shop. In this video I make a new nut for the leadscrew using my belt driven Drummond lathe with its original reversing set up - Hope you enjoy! Instagram - iron_jonsey
Running a 120+ year old Travelling Head Shaper for the First Time - Belt Driven Machine Shop
Просмотров 14 тыс.9 месяцев назад
In this video I get my travelling head shaper running and do some test cuts on an old cylinder head. This shaper was built by Redman in Halifax, England around 1900 Please do subscribe to keep up to date with the shop Instagram - @iron_jonesy Wills Instagram - @steam_workshop_uk Thanks for watching!
Denbigh Mill First Run, Split Pulley Bushing and Lacing Flat Belts - Belt Driven Machine Shop
Просмотров 7 тыс.Год назад
Denbigh Mill First Run, Split Pulley Bushing and Lacing Flat Belts - Belt Driven Machine Shop
Drummond Toolpost Repair Job + Thread Cutting on Old Lathes - Belt Driven Machine Shop
Просмотров 4 тыс.2 года назад
Drummond Toolpost Repair Job Thread Cutting on Old Lathes - Belt Driven Machine Shop
Re Steeling a worn out axe head with Blacksmith, Alec Jones
Просмотров 2 тыс.6 лет назад
Re Steeling a worn out axe head with Blacksmith, Alec Jones
BLACKSMITHING - Fire welding traditional scrollwork
Просмотров 1,2 тыс.8 лет назад
BLACKSMITHING - Fire welding traditional scrollwork
Fantastic cobbled up puller. Rube Goldberg would be proud of you!
Great project looks like your having fun
I love the hammer at 11:12. Paused, read, tried Carson and Garson, finally found “Barson hammer drift.” Nice.
Well done! I failed miserably at a similar job some years ago. Glad you pulled it off. The belt system is mesmerising to watch. All the best and merry Christmas. Mart in Solihull.
I was surprised to hear you say that you used to do the 15thC! Can you show us some late medieval tech?
Yeah, it was mostly in a military context, but I did build a forge and bellows, which I used to drag about and demontrate with. Perhaps it could make an appearance here!
@@iron_jonesy I was sort of hoping that you had built one of those early thread cutting lathes like the one from the Wolfegg Hausbuch.... but a 15thC forge and bellows would be cool to see.
@robertmacpherson9044 oh don't tempt me!
@@iron_jonesy You know you won't be happy till you make one.... ;-)
Really enjoyed watching the crane build. Fantastic to see the old machinery in general and in this video the techniques are unfamiliar to me so lots of interesting content for me. Newly subbed and enjoying the channel. Mart.
Thanks Mart! Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks!
Thank you!
Do you not have any correctly sized spanners or is one adjustable wrench all you have?
Great video again. Complements too on the camera angles + editing of the shaper work , iv watched a lot if shaper footage from rustiknox , abom79 , steve summers , etc and your filming is amongst the most enjoyable. Mery Christmas , god bless
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it!
*I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS* just found y ou today and binge-watching - seriously you should have a museum, this is amazing...!!!
@piccalillipit9211 Thank you! This is quickly becoming a museum!
@@iron_jonesy I think its absolutely amazing mate - you should invite Alec Steele over to have a look - he would LOVE IT...!!! I organised the visit they did to Ernest Wright the scissor makers in Sheffield, Alec and Jamie are super nice guys. Have you seen his restoration of the steam power hammer...???
@piccalillipit9211 oh really! That's interesting! I followed the hammer build with much interest and awe. I worked with Alec many years ago, and maybe we can do something together again sometime!
@@iron_jonesy Yeah I make historical suits 1890 - 1940 as a semi-professional hobby. I dropped my cast steel 13" antique fabric shears on a tiled floor and they shattered along and ancient fault - Ernest Wright made me a new pair as a special order and they were THE nicest most helpful people on the planet so I emailed Alec and Jamie and a month later they were there making a video. I think a visit to your shop would be PERFECT in light of the steam hammer build they have just finished.
YEO - you got a sub my friend
a very useful work of art... you are an artist...... may I ask - the hammer that you are using for the main work seems a bit light..or is it that you need a light enough hammer to be able to keep swinging it and not tire the arms?
Thank you! It's personal preference, really. Most smiths use around a 2lb hammer for most work, some use heavier, it depends on your style or forging. With this style, power comes from velocity and frequency of blows more than dead weight. I'll only use a heavier hammer when I need some serious welly.
I have a round bed Drummond lathe, had to get some new gears cut to be able to make metric and imperial threads!
hello Mr Iron very good hold work !!!! very interesting video !!! please to be continue ???? I like very mutch your video !!!
Many thanks!
How about running a thin grinder cut off disc down the sides
Argh pls. Wd is just a water repellant as peoplr telling u. Get mix plus gas diesel graphite paraffin anything. When loosen bolts, just gentky back and forth whilst apply. Don't just wind out, i was wincing waiting for shear. Bloody brilliant else.
The comment does not contain semantic load, and it serves to support the channel and grant the Outdoor.👍👍👍
Use a cheater pipe over the monkey wrench, your back will thank you in 10 years😏
Persistent! I love doing this stuff!
An impact wrench at a light setting will be far less likely to shear the rusty bolts.
Appalachian poor from NY USA Hi
Hidden nice and snug up under and only having to deal with humidity.
Oil the inside of the cone when I'm running the back gears right? Not a regular thing to do like the rest of the machine?
The inside of the cone doesn't need lubricating when the back gears aren't in use because it locks to the spindle. When using back gears the cone spins freely on the spindle so needs oil.
@@iron_jonesy Gotcha. I never really understood that part. It didn't seem right to just pump the entire thing full of oil. Always learning.
Great vidio, is there no place you could move the electric motor to the noise ruins the charm of a line shaft shop.
Thanks. Unfortunately not, but I could do more to insulate the noise so perhaps ill do that.
How often do you have to lube the bearings on the line shafts
The pillow block bearing in the centre is a total loss bearing fed with a drip oiler which needs filling daily. The hanger brackets are ring oil bearings which have little sumps. The ring sits over the shaft and also in the oil underneath thereby oiling the shaft as it spins. These need need topping up monthly as there is a tiny bit of loss out the ends. The loose pulleys on all the machines get oiled every 8 hours runtime and the countershaft bearings get oiled daily. I still have various ball bearings dotted about which I'm slowly getting rid of. I grease these quarterly, unless I forget.
I just found your channel. I've been binge watching. Very cool. I'm jealous.
Found it today - watched about 8 videos already
I would like to follow you, but I can’t understand you, sometimes I can but when you are not near the microphone it’s just garbled noise.
Thanks, hopefully I have solved this on my newer videos!
At least if you get one you know what your dealing with.
Subtitles say "Music" when the transmission / machines running 😄
Its not wrong!
I know there's so many people giving you so much helpful advice. I'm sorry to be yet another. Once you feel that bolt start to move, back and forth. Work it easy back and forth, lots of penetrant. Also smacking bolt heads with a hammer will help you a lot if you can. Some just aren't meant to come out but you'll have better luck going back and forth. Just a hair more each time.You're doing pretty damn well with that stick welder!
Thanks, all good tips. Im just happy the rack came out in one piece. The three sheared screws are all protruding from the surface, luckily. They should come with a welded nut and plenty more heat, oil, as you say. Cheers!
@@iron_jonesy Yea if something happened to the rack you'd be in a bad way! Heat, oil, impact if you can, back and forth, patience. I keep a small jar of broken fasteners that I removed. It's my good luck/victory jar. Another thing you might try, weld a washer to your broken stud if it protrudes at all. It's an easier target. Then weld a nut to the washer. Again an easier target. It seems to work out moderately for me. You're one hell of a Smithy. Have you ever thought about doing casting?
I think I would have filled the cavity with diesel oil or old brake fluid
That will be next. I want to chemically dissolve as much rust out of the joint as I can first!
Problem is you are welding high tensile steel screws and the amount of heat sink around them simply chills the steel and embrittles it.
Great point, a quick normalise after welding probably wouldn't go amiss next time. Cheers
Why didn’t you add weld to the shaft and turn it down to fit the part that didn’t come with the machine. See a channel called on fire welding, he fixes modern big boys toys.😁 love the channel, glad I found you, thanks 👍
I considered it. I've done the process a few times but only on larger shafts, making a bush was just simpler, for me. I'll check him out! Cheers!
With a thermal lance you would have that all apart a year ago
When i restore heavily rusted tools, my first instinct is to either soak them in evaporust or similar stuff, or if not, to spray anything that could be possibly stuck in ungodly amounts of WD40. Is there a specific reason, you don´t take any chemical or tribological measures to take things apart?
Agreed, I use all those things. I just haven't shown it on camera for a while. I had this drill for nearly 2 years with constant oiling, cleaning and occasional heating before it started coming apart.
Quality... peace
I like to weld nuts on , even on old cast the arc weld will always stick when you don’t want it to, welding on nuts keeps the pool away from the parts you wish to save. Great channel, keep warm.
Yeah, I always forget about the washer/nut trick when dealing with countersunk screws. Cheers!
HI, good video! you might be able to build a charcoal fire under the rack and let it heat up well. looks like you need a forklift when you can afford it before you drop one of those large casting on yourself. Rich
Thanks! A fire under that rack area is definitely on the cards! I'm sure with some heat and leverage in the correct place it will move fine.
My father used a drill in his woodworking shop with my grandfather just like you have. He always said, wear a flat cap or loose your scalp with belt driven machines. Seeing the belt so close to your head I can now appreciate how true his statement was.
It is interesting to closely examine the F. Pratt lathe design features and compare to 1935 South Bend model C. Fundamental changes were a transition as steam to electric drive and also, the development of various metals. The split bed feature shown as to increase workpiece OD, clearly an advantage to design. The South Bend as I mention had a very similar back gear and drive gear design, and also was a belt drive (cone type). I rather like to watch a workpiece as to this lathe type and then find a CNC machine tool post as to compare past and present cutting speeds. Thanks for the view to your shop and work flow. M.
I also love comparing different aged machines and looking at the changes over time, Cheers!
@@iron_jonesy Before your channel I had never seen an F. Pratt of this type. I also looked up the treadle type and thought of the effort required at that job type. I installed my S. Bend to raised block leveled to wide, pine blocking, and continue to add to original tooling but where I have the modern advantage of inexpensive tool source. My shop is small and mostly as to auto repair bit I do find tractor work also, in various fitting. I find I try for simplicity in set up and best tool and as for precision, it meets my needs where in particular, I try for best finish. I did add a modern 3 jaw chuck (China) for small bits. While the S. Bend units were hand scraped to delivery, years of use (90) has seen wear at the bed way nearer the headstock and some impact marring at near workpiece sanded and cleaned , wear which can be lessened with attention to chips and travel. Basically, a 1 meter span. Absolutely enjoying your posts of various repair, and I bid you fair winds and a good season from Washington state, US. M.
buy an impact screwdriver for the next time you get stucked bolt, sometimes it can help you for this task.
Amazing work.