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Thanks for sharing your videos, they are very informative. The finished jacket looks pretty good to me. Angelis dye is great stuff. It can also be used to dye maple and other timber for stunning electric guitar finishes.

Any worries about ventilation/overheating?

No. 1 (buying) is the same for me. But then it differs heavily - I'm not organizing them. And then I don't use them, because I can't find them...OK, in reality it's not that bad! But I should definitely organize a bit more... 😂

This video earned my subscription! Great idea

I was just watching hat videos... And booom! You were born in my eyes. I'm FOR IT! LETS GO!

Man, I think you have more hobbies than me! And I love it!! Good on you for utilizing that full space.

Someone said to me once regarding my fabric hoard that buying fabric and using fabric are two seperate hobbies, and both are just as good. I no longer feel shame about my millions of little bits and pieces for dozens of hobbies I have.

Nice to see a workshop that's not about woodworking for a change. ;-) Love it!

Just came up youtube front page - instant sub 😂 Awesome combo of different crafts, had a look at your other vids and looks like i'm sorted for something to watch while I build a backlit frame for a drypoint etching frame and tidy my workshop. Keep it up 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

Really awesome vid. Thank you for the tutorial.

Very well organized.

I wish I could do this for my Nissan Kicks. The headlights are really dim. I wonder if I could do something like this?

Awesome.. I do like the fact that you made it better instead of just tossing it out... I hoard things to. Switches, knobs, hardware , handles , etc. I just used some handles I found in a pick up. That I'm using on our kitchen.. great Channel dude. Stay safe

Nice modification. Way better than most people who would just throw it away.

Thanks for sharing your craftsmanship. You do nice work.

Acrylic is very expensive I always cringe when a project asks for it

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I liked the way you walked through the process of making it

What are your other top three?

this is exactly what i was looking for, quick and simple idea for a power burnisher. You'll get much better results if you use a hardwood like oak!!!

Nice job!

What are those bearing called? I can't find them anywhere

26:16 omg he gonna monch the handle

Very nice, so funny how i bought rotary tool few days ago and i started getting rotary tool videos in recommended xd

If the rod is threaded u can just push nut in the middle of those discs and it rotates on rod up and down, funny xd

I can oh so relate to that, thanks.

Gordon ramsey has a steak airfryer recipe. You just make a rub with aleppo p's and coffee grounds. (yes, coffee) Try it. Blew my mind, 2 ingredients

Make sure you install the ch340 usb to srial driver!!! Most every nano clone uses that instead of the cp2102

This entire video was you winging it. What an absolute crock of crap.

Fold the wide parts inward to produce a heavier mallet?

If you scrap a microwave for its asynchronous turntable motor, you could automate that fellow. Nice build

Dude! Your scrap and tools look like my shop but yours is definitely better organized. Why buy when we DIY? Exactly my thoughts. Subbed!!

Check this out .. I restored two Garland number three one. number five split face hammers.. I wish I would have found your channel before I did that. I paid up hard for those faces.. but the hammers turned out really nice.. thanks for sharing that trick man. Much appreciated stay safe out there man. . Very cool hack.

I have always wanted to try this. Im going to now. Thanks for taking us along 👍.

That's THE best use for that rawhide crap as it's known to cause huge health issues for dogs due to the chemicals used to make it... Lots of dogs being killed from investing them. Will keep an eye out for the rawhide chews in order to make up some mallets. Great video!!

After you trim the strip for the mallet you could cut the scraps into small pieces and boil them down to make a rawhide (collagen) glue that could be applied like wood glue before you roll the mallet head.

Take the strips that you cut off and add to both sides. Paper towels both sides to absorb moisture. Staple one end to board. Stretch as much as possible and staple opposite end same deal with sides. Paper, board, weight. Time. A couple of days later the medium will still be flexible but yielding. Roll as tightly as possible and use automotive hose clamps to further compress. Low temperature oven……. When it bounces back when dropped, probably ready for a coat of varnish to seal. Drill, handle, screw or dowel or brass rod or nail………😊

Rawhide from a chew toy-genius. To prevent the leather from starting to decompose, I'd change the water every day. Maybe hot water would soften it quicker? I would not add bleach-it can weaken fabric and bone so I'm sure it'd weaken leather. Probably dry it in a stove lowest setting once flattened. And I have no idea about this, just what iffing here-instead of epoxy, woodworking glue. Some types might be thin enough to pour. Hide glue you'd have to frost it like a cake then roll it up. Anything that helps hold furniture together should be tough! I'd be afraid the epoxy would make the hammer too hard, or would start to crack with extended use. Again-I could be wrong! The diy handles were great, and using the hose clamps. Vegan leather can be made from natural plant materials, but often it's just plastic, polyurethane, so be sure what you got. How about picking up a cheap leather purse from the thrift store and using that? Not rawhide, but would it make a hammer? Thanks for a great video!

You could tack it out flat on the board, as well....rawhide an be soaked repeatedly, to work it. Many of the Spanish Missions in California are built out of timbers lashed down with wet rawhide, that tightens up as it dries, and has lasted 100's of years....cured in part I'm sure by the candle smoke over the centuries.

Excellent work, looks like it will work well. Be interested in what your thoughts are after you use for a couple of projects, thanks for sharing your build and insights, enjoyed watching.

Why in the world didn’t I think of that, I have to get my mind outside the box a little more often. Nice job of fabricating, looks awesome, I will be trying that soon. I subscribed and liked, I too am interested in building my own tools as well as refurbishing and restoring old hand tools. Thanks for the video, enjoyed watching.

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Nice job, well done 👍

The ones buy in the store are covered some how with bees wax but I love the video

like a fool, I bought a like new used one on Fleabay for $15 and free shipping, think of all the time and money I could have saved doing this

This is the first 'craft' video I have seen that was based on a Shakespearean play "A Comedy Of Errors". :<) Like me, keep at it long enough and it may just come out right.

I always associate rawhide mallet to jewellery making, but i had to do a second take to realise that that wasn't a jewelers bench, really interesting to find who uses different tools and how Edit: if i remember correctly, the raw hide is tacked in place and bound with hoops

man this video is pretty relatable. i remember all the attempts i made at making rawhide mallets early on. i've made around a hundred or so now. a couple thoughts based on my experience: - most cured epoxy is quite hard, harder than the rawhide, which can leave marks on your work if you are working something delicate. i've left marks on silver with an epoxied mallet head as an example. - dog bones are usually made from the belly of the hide, which is the weakest and least dense part of the hide. it makes a softer, but faster wearing mallet. the rawhide near the spine makes the toughest mallets in my experience. - if you want a harder mallet, you can saturate the rawhide in either a very thin, slow curing epoxy like deep pour, cactus juice, or shellac. - stretch the rawhide on a board and nail down the edges. - put it into an oven at around 150-215°f until it becomes very dry. temperature takes some experimenting to get the exact effect you're after and see how the specific hide responds. - let the hide cool still stretched on the board - trim the dry hide to 20% oversized of what you want for final dimensions, it will move a fair bit as it soaks up whatever you are soaking it in. - submerge the rawhide in a container of liquid of choice. the very dry rawhide will readily soak up most things here and soften. as soon as it is softened enough, roll the head and wrap it in aluminum flashing or something similar with either parchment paper or a silicone release agent applied. - epoxy should cure on it's own without further intervention, but be wary of the leftover mix as it can heat up and cause a fire. the container for the epoxy should be a shallow container. deeper containers can cause the heat from catalyzation to run away and start a nasty fire. i don't like epoxy because it is usually too hard for my needs and is dangerous. - cactus juice is better than epoxy in my opinion. easier to work with and safer, you have to cure it in a toaster oven or something at around 200°f after it is saturated, but you aren't risking epoxy fires and cactus juice is meant for stabilizing wood so it works well. you can go the whole vacuum chamber route if you want to form the heads first and then impregnate them, but i've had good results with soaking the oven dried rawhide in cactus juice directly. it isn't as thick or difficult to penetrate as wood but ymmv. the downsides to cactus juice are how hard it is, and it only serves one purpose and can't really be reused. - shellac can be mixed in a 1lb cut or 2lb cut depending on how hard you want the final mallet. soak the oven dried and trimmed rawhide in a bucket of shellac for a few hours. i've forgotten and left mine a couple days once and it turned out fine. then remove it and roll and form the head on the aluminum flashing as usual. i like using a bunch of hoze clamps to make the final result more uniform. leave the head for a few days so the alcohol can evaporate letting the shellac resin harden. shellac makes the softest of the impregnation liquids i've tested, but you can get some shellac flakes when you are first using the mallet. i usually trim the head with a saw, sand it down and them beat on on something for a bit to break up the fibres at the face and around edges. that gets rid of any flaking and softens the face quite a bit. hope some of that was useful to someone.

can bearly hear you but your intro nearly deafened me. GREAT IDEA

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