Видео

Thanks for the feedback!

Too dangerous to sharpen holding blades in hands. Please place in a holding device

Most New Commercial Blades are between 30°- 35°

Yeah… when I sharpen my pocket, hunting and chef’s knives, I leave them with a blunt edge, otherwise… they dull faster. I even special order blunt edge utility knife blades from Lennox and blunt edge razor blades from Gillette, BC they don’t dull as fast as a finely honed edge. I also enjoy using a partially dull knife on drywall, carpet / pad, flooring, visqueen, wallpaper, etc. Seems legit… NOT! 🤣

So basically don't sharpen them and when get old replace , and starts all over. .plus sharpening them removes metal , which means have to replace sooner. The manufacturer should suggest grinding metal off i mean sharpening them.

it would be interesting to see how long that sharpened blade stays sharp? for most people i would say no need to sharpen, simply the fact we are watching this video means we are different lol. the average person may sharpen their blades once a season (giving avg person benefit of doubt, more likely once in a blue moon). i sharpen my blades once a month because i also use my lawnmower for mulching material to add to compost pile.

A 6" ratcheting bar clamp ( HF 64154 $3.99) can be used as a blade step for removal. I'm curious what the result would be if you mowed 1000 sq ft, left the blade alone and at week intervals mowed again. Those blades are carbon steel. I'd bet that from moisture and condensation a sharpened edge would rust, nick and and deteriorate faster than the factory un-sharp painted edge.

The reason for the flat sdge is to be able to resist the edge rounding off every time you mow. That and the fact that many people don't have golf course lawns they have weeds that destroy that razor edge almost instantly. John Deere recommends that you draw file a 3/64 flat on mower blades. Now if it's out of balance instead of grinding away your blade tack weld a washer ontop of the blade or drill a washer on the light side till it balances then tack weld it on or drill a hole in heavy side a muffler shop can tack weld it for a minimal cost might even do it for free

I sharpen all my blades the first of each month, I prefer a 120 flap disc, removes less metal and leaves a smooth shine. I recently bought a bearing type blade balancer, that thing is extra nice. These make a big difference in the cut, as well as makes the mower run smoother.

An obvious safety issue to ship with a sharp blade Equal as obvious to use sharp blade to cut grass

Thanks for the video, one word of caution using those Flap wheels. The very outer edge is like a chain saw blade and if it just touches you it will rip right to the bone in an instant. Always secure the material in a vice or clamps and do not remove the safety shield.

You sharpen the blade to remove rock chips and to balance the blade to protect the mower engine/ tractor spindles. A sharp blade cuts grass, and a dull blade rips it out. I'm not that worried about grass.

Thank you for sharing this blade-sharpening.

The only ones I've bought that were actually sharp were my John deer blades. Those were every bit as sharp as my pocket knife and they cut beautifully. I actually bought a really fine grinder stone so I can re create that super sharp edge. Sharp is definitely the way to go for me. It doesn't get too hot on a bench grinder unless you are really pushing on it and trying to remove metal fast. Take your time and it does just fine and I touch my blades every pass and if it gets too hot to touch I sit them in front of a fan for a min or switch to the other side or both

I use a flap wheel to sharpen blades as well, why? A regular grinding disc will kill the temper in the blade if it stays in place too long, with the flap wheel it actually sharpens the blade better with less passes, and the blade only gets warm. Bottom line, your blades last much longer. I use a 42" John Deere, I'm seeing the blade life increased at least 60% more.

Steve's Small Engine Saloon. Proper Way to Tip a Lawn Mower Over on it's side without draining the gas. ruclips.net/video/eeEVigsVqrE/видео.html

Thanks for all your tips, I always tilted it in its side now I'm going to put an I bolt on my barn & tilt it back.

I think the new blades come dull because the lawyers tell them to do that to prevent lawsuits from people who get cut opening the packages. Yes, some people would definitely sue companies over this if they get cut while opening or installing sharp blades.

Then why pay for a new blade? Sharpen the used blade.

I would rather use a file grinder to me just to risky making it too hot and weakin it they paint the blades anyways and with the paint they use should cover a sharp edge I would just file the paint off and use it 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️

I don't know why you chose that blade stop, they are $4. That said, as you said, piece of scrap wood, probably fell off a tree nearby.

So where are the actual stripes of grass you cut? That would show us the real difference. IMO

Butter knife sharp is what you want! I sharpen my blades every year/25hrs or I hit something, which I rarely do.

If anyone is interested, All American Sharpener has the best cone balancer I've ever owned. Even the star hole blades fit properly on their cone. Also, a 60 grit flap disk is great to do quick touchups on a blade between dedicated sharpening.

OK- Made a believer out of me! Never thought of that. Thanks. And thanks for the other tips too!

I found this to be very informative. Thanks for going thru the process with results.

My grandson has one customer who pays him to sharpen the blades before mowing his yard 😮 That’s neat 😊😊😊

It just looks much better if the blade is sharp, a dull blade just leaves a nasty look 😊😊😊 I sharpen them often 😊

I'v said it before maufacturing today charges more and gives you less that's the new american way.Every thing is made to wear out so we have to buy more, nothing is made to last anymore.

One more helpful hint is to mark one end of the blade so you don't lose track between grinding and balancing. Oh, and to remember which side goes down, put a little shot of paint on the bottom of the blade before removing. You don't even have to ask your wife about what color to use 😂.

One more helpful hint is to mark one end of the blade so you don't lose track between grinding and balancing. Oh, and to remember which side is down, give a little shot of paint on the bottom before removing. You don't even have to ask your wife about what color to use 😂.

Biggest thing about sharp new blades would be liability for injuries in my opinion.

I never found that a blade really doesn’t needed to be balanced as long as you take the same number of passes on each side

The question not asked or answered is " what is sharp"? Do go for scarey sharp or something less sharp? What is sharp, how to replecate it each time you sharpen? Personally I file my blade, check balance and hang it until I need to replace the blade on the mower.

I rock 45° angle... All day long MF. There's no other angle. Turns grass into powder. Get it right -- get it tight.

To get the blade off, a cheap C clamp attached ahead of the blade works just fine.

The real question is how long does a razor sharp blade last before becoming dull like a new blade. This is the point the manufacturer is trying to make because most of us are not perfectionist wanting to change or sharpen blades every hour of use.

I mow 2 acres. I put sharp blades on every 5 mows. I always sharpen and balance new blades.

A knife edge on a mower blade will roll in a very few minutes and the edge will no longer be sharp. Better to dull it down a bit so you have a stronger edge.

All this is the difference between a reel mower and rotary blade mower. The reel mower cuts better.

12:44 I just use a grinding wheel on tgec4" hand held grinder one pass same pressure boom I'm done But i have 12 hours a day for 7 years worth of exp grinding with one. When I'm done it looks like the blade was sharpened at the factory only sharper. Also ill start with the 30 dgr angle and put a 45 drg edge on that just a thin strip it will make the edge last longer you can flat grind the back side to break the burr.

I've played around with lawn mower blade sharpening over the years and agree that a sharp blade does a better job. The lawn services that have worked on my neighbor's yard over the years apparently don't understand that!! If you want to play around some more you can actually up the game even more! I use a bench grinder but use it more like a surface grinder and grind with the length of the blade instead of across the length. The grinder does not have a wrap around guard... it's more like a Foley Belsaw blade sharpener set up. If needed I remove damage from the edge by first grinding the edge straight (dulling the edge blunt in the process) on a conventional grinder. Then I grind the bevel until I raise a burr on the bottom of the blade. Then I use a mill file and draw file the burr off and finish up with with a puck sharpening stone to remove the burr entirely. By doing this you can slice paper like in a knife commercial! The grass looks fantastic but obviously the edge doesn't stay that sharp for long. Note that for a truly sharp edge you need to raise a burr and remove the burr. Don't let the burr "wear off" in use as it actually fractures and leaves a ragged edge when viewed under magnification. Is it necessary to go that far? No, not really... but it's fun to play! 😉 My "production" sharpening involves grinding to raise the burr and then using the coarse side of the puck stone to take the burr off... it works just fine.

With that type of blade center, find a thin fender washer that fits the balancer but is a larger diameter then the hole but small enough to fit the blades center area inside the bends now you can lay the blade on it and stay center. I have one of them balancers. But i don't use it most the time. I'll just take a few swipes with my grinder on each side on the mower and remove the same amount of material, if i have a bad chip in the blade and have to remove it then ill take it off the mower. I hardly ever have to. And you can be slightly off balance and it not matter you can feel it if you do take the blades off and get it close. Your cutting grass it don't have to be perfect look at the tools there not precession instruments. Were not splitting hairs just cutting grass. A nice sharp blade cuts the grass better and don't tear it. You should always put a keen edge on a new blade.

Thanks for the comment!

Yeah, well done. I will be sharpening my blades from now on.

The makers are correct the same theory is for a axe , on a new blade I used a hand bastard file and just file the coating off just 1/4" along . tilt mower muffler side down . tip have 2 blades now you can take time to sharpen

I use to work at a lawn care shop and we sold a ton of new blades. I would say well over 3/4 of the customers requested us to "touch" the new blades up so the majority wins, sharpen the new blades.

I have two blades for my mower. The spare on the shelf is always sharp and ready to change into service. I have a small lawn and a short grass season so I usually change blades once a season. It is important to clean under the deck and be sure the engine fins and the flywheel fan are clear of grass and rodent debris so the engine does not overheat.

I can sharpen a blade and within minutes it's not so sharp anymore. I can hear the difference as I'm cutting. But I still sharpen my blades. As far as blade temper goes lawn mower blades are mild steel. So there's no way they can be hardened or softened with heat. The manufacturer doesn't want you spinning any blade close to the ground where it can contact something with any kind of a hardened blade that is brittle. Use your head. You can bend a lawnmower blade like a fishhook. Don't ask me how I know that.

The sharper the blade the cleaner the cut. Also reduces drag when cutting tall grass and saves thus on gas.