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@@rexcelmuyong8188 I appreciate your comments. Thanks

Hihi pilipino pala ka sir?

Sa vedio na fluke 324 kyo 2127 at peak sir dun ako nkaisip sa clamp na bibilhin ko kyoristsu 2127r hehehe thank

@@ranjitsoondas2403 I ordered the electrical leather gloves protectors from amazon, and the ordinary work gloves from lazada.

@@ergunburak It's on a 2-minute timer. Thanks for watching!

@@marlon2445 Hi sir, pasensya na hindi ako PEE. But I attended an orientation before. Short circuit calculation was required, also a good grasp of standards (IEEE, etc), and your chosen topic for your technical engineering report (TER) will determine in large part what reference materials you might need. I suggest you touch base with your IIEE chapter since they may have programs specifically to help PEE aspirants. Good luck po!

@@ramschannelreviews thank you sir

@@JojoCruzSolano Yes sir. Also note that UNI-T has a competing product called UT-CS06A which works just as well and costs less. I suggest that you download their users manual and see if they meet your requirements and purposes.

@@JojoCruzSolano Below 1milliampere? No sir. At the minimum it can measure 100milliampere but only if your DMM has a resolution of 10micro-volt AC.

Yes sir. However, just like the F116 it cannot display a resolution below 1mV so in effect it can measure only a minimum of 1A using the i400e.

I appreciate your comments. Have a good day!

I appreciate your comments. Just now I tested the continuity buzzer of my unit. It was indeed not as loud as my Hioki DMMs, but the same in volume as my Fluke 107, in my ears. The Fluke 107 though has a higher pitch, while the UT15B Max has a bit lower pitch. Perhaps that may have caused the impression of a barely audible sound. Unfortunately there isn't a way to increase the volume.

@@sandipdas6715 I appreciate your comments. Thanks.

@@ellescer I appreciate your comments. It's trademark which they use not only on clamp meters but on other test equipment as well. I don't know the origin but I'd surmise that it's a combination of Hi(oki) + Tester.

@@seppbri6849 I appreciate your comments. Thank you, glad the video helped.

I apologize, as I haven't used it to run a loaded 3-phase motor. I use it only to get a 3-phase voltage for testing my digital multimeters/clamp meters. As you know, it will not produce a 3-phase output unless connected to a 3-phase AC motor. So, I don't have a first hand experience how it will perform under load. Although it successfully converted a single-phase input to 3-phase output when the unloaded motor was hooked up, it did so at a higher than usual voltage unbalance. As they mentioned in the user's guide, the no-load voltage unbalance will drop to normal values once the motor is loaded to its capacity. But again, I've not tried it. You're right to be reluctant, especially if your motor will be turning an important or sensitive load.

@@paulosanchesgoncalves5567 I appreciate your comments. Muito obrigado!

I appreciate your comments. If I'm not mistaken some high end commercial LED lighting may already be using some sort of power factor correction (PFC) circuitry, which also drives the cost up. For small loads, however, the effect of low PF due to common LED lighting isn't very significant to justify higher investment. But for commercial/industrial applications, low PF and high THD are an important technical and economic concerns that must be addressed. From my previous experience I've seen some older industrial applications compensated for low PF (through capacitor banks) at individual load centers or main panel. I have yet to see a PFC coupled LED lighting, though.

@@samiurrahman4641 I'll see what I can do. Thanks for watching sir!

@@samiurrahman4641 Hello sir thank you for your appreciation and support!

I rated the Knipex highest at 9/10 while all the others 8/10, which is not a lot of difference. The best bang for the buck would be Southwire. These are subjective but you can't go wrong with any of them. Thanks for watching!

since my native language is Spanish

@@matitips Thanks for your appreciation!

@@mecshanlee3724 I appreciate it sir. Thank you! Good luck on your channel.

@@alexeydearanaespinosa1667 Thanks for watching. Unfortunately they seem to only have 200-240V units available. I looked at their website (Myung Youn Electronics) but there's no 100-130V DPS at this time.

Salamat po!

@@grahamluscombememories9897 Yeah, a bit misaligned indeed. 😄

@@fathiryqodraalam5833 Metal.

@@ramschannelreviews thx info

@@playstation2bigs I don't have rechargeable 9V. I am using non-rechargeable Energizer Lithium 9V battery for my UT191T, as well as my Fluke 116.

@@ramschannelreviews ohhh does it last longer? How many months before it die ?

@@playstation2bigs I can't mention a definite time, but these 9V Lithiums last much much longer than 9V alkaline batteries I used before. I have yet to replace any of them in my DMMs. My UT191T is a battery hogger but it's still on its first 9V Lithium battery. Granted, my test equipment sees light use only nowadays.

@@danielardelian2 You're right. In the case of LED lights this is particularly applicable since its internal circuit must convert the AC input to DC. As you know a lot of these rectifiers together can draw enough current pulses that can affect the waveform of the AC voltage source. Thanks for your thoughts.

@@stevenschapera2888 I appreciate your suggestion. Since I prefer to use the E300 over my other label printers nowadays, I would give it a rating of 8/10 based on my personal use of it. Also suggest to consider the model P-Touch E110, which cost lower and more compact than the E300.

@@malapatil7147 Roughly U$946.00

@@directsystems2225 If you mean was the waveform function disabled in the app for DC? No, it isn't. It's still there. You'll just get a straight line for a constant voltage DC source. If you have a half wave rectified AC current it will show the waveform like a DC offset. But I have no fast changing purely DC source so I can't tell for certain how the app will graphically display it.

@@ramschannelreviews i mean, i want to see any glitches in DC signal (like oscilloscope) and voltage checking on coil sides on laptop motherboard.

​@@directsystems2225 I think I know what you mean. I'd be interested to know as well. I just don't have the testing setup for it. Sorry about that.

@@najmurrahmaan8011 Thanks for dropping by. I suggest getting in touch with Hioki Singapore. They may be able to help you in this regard. www.hioki.com/sg-en/products/clamp-meters/ac-dc-clamp/id_6707

I appreciate your comments. Glad the video helped Thank you for your support, Sir! Stay safe.

@@georgedavall9449 Link to the soft case a.co/d/0ci2biZ6 For my F115 I just buy the generic semi- hard case from local online sellers which typically sell for the equivalent of U$8.

@@ramschannelreviews Great, got it! I have a Klein PVA foam type case that is available locally, but it is expensive, so I will check out those cases. Where would You rec’d getting a test board from? THANKS in Advance !!!!!! 🤝

Thanks for your comments.

10 panels total. divided into 2 PV strings. Each panel at 550W.

@@ramschannelreviews how many kwh per day?

@@saltnpepper6675 Too early to give a representative figure but just for reference, it produced 22kWHr per day on average the last 10 days, on sunny and rainy weather.

Thanks for your comments. I've only just begun to learn about solar but I think your numbers are noteworthy.

@@ramschannelreviews I have a few more tests to do too improve those #'s then I can share the details

Your welcome. Glad it helped. Thanks for your support!

Thanks for your appreciation. You are correct about the Stanley kit. I have other precision screwdrivers but this set always gets the right fit on the work piece. They're quite indispensable around the house. The Japanese pliers are great, too. They're high quality and sold at a competitive price. I just combine it with others to get free shipping from amazon.

@@ramschannelreviews You’re a smart man! (Amazon remark ) I just looked at this video again, and saw the Milwaukee Fastback knife! Somehow I didnt ‘see it’ before? Idiot here! 😯 😂 I really like the Fastback knives, especially the newer model with the release that doesn’t get caught on stuff whilst cutting! take care! 👍🤝

@@georgedavall9449 Sharp eye!

Thanks for your support! I appreciate it.

Thank you!

@@ramschannelreviews You're Welcome!

I appreciate your support, thank you!

@@ramschannelreviews You're Welcome! 😊

@@georgedavall9449 Good day! I thought you'd be interested in a case for a Fluke 107. I found this from amazon (not advertising them), for information purpose only. ruclips.net/video/jdJ9qaR_tL4/видео.htmlsi=xLGnrh_PYllkelZI

@@ramschannelreviews Thank You Sir! 🤝

@@georgedavall9449 You're welcome!

Thank you for your appreciation! That packaging was indeed abysmal. Unfortunately when there was no option at amazon check out to "deliver in amazon box" you're packaging is left at the discretion of the shipper. The body of my F107 has a bit of creak, too, when pressed. But it does not affect anything. I didn't like it, as well. But I believe it's an expected occurrence from manufacturing this budget range of the Fluke DMMs. Looking at amazon prices at this time, I see several good deals for it. There's one with a case for just U$103. I appreciate you taking the time to share your thoughts. Good luck and safe testing!

@@ramschannelreviews Thank You for the great reply! Thanks for your views on your unit, and I am surprised yours has the same ‘creaking’ when pressed, but I concur with You regarding the manufacture of this to a price point. After watching your video, and taking mine apart, I believe the noise comes from the way the two halves go together where it has a slight curve. It fits the hand rather nicely, but it probably contributes to the two halves not fitting as precise as they could be? It is after all, plastic, and the only way around it would be addition of a couple of extra screws, and then added cost? I see a couple of YT videos on ‘water damaged’ 107 meters, so maybe the two halves could fit together better? Safe testing to You as well.

@@georgedavall9449 Yes, the shape fits the hand well. Be careful, though, not to over tighten the screw. The first time I removed them they were a bit too tight. The metallic screws were embedded only on plastic which can get worn out if tightened too much. In any case you only need to deal with those screws if you need to replace the fuse. The battery cover, meanwhile, only needs a small coin or flat head screw driver to open, which is a good design, but not water resistant.

@@ramschannelreviews Appreciate the replies, and the sound advice! Good point on those screws, and I found the same thing to be true. The battery compartment access is clever, but I have my reservations on it? I tried a little ‘experiment,’ and I wanted to share it with You. I had the case apart, and applied a small strip of scotch tape to both sides, on the back half, near the middle where it ‘creaks,’ and put it back together, and lo and behold, no more creaking! Try it! I observed the meter as reading a bit ‘low’ when compared to other meters? I know there is a given tolerance in the accuracy, but it was lower in values when checking batteries, checking the outlets (mains as y’all say ) etc. I need to find some fuses, diodes, and check it out further. I would be curious to know if the scotch tape thing worked for you? Cheers!

@@georgedavall9449 No I didn't try the Scotch tape hack. I'm alright with a little creaking, hehe. But since it worked out well for you, it's all good. If you think your F107 reads low, one thing you can do to check, is to have another AC averaging meter and compare their AC voltage readings. As you know it may not read the same as a true RMS meter, like a Fluke 117, for example. For DC, so long as its readings are within spec, it's not a defect. Just now I made a quick comparison using a lithium battery: Hioki DT4256 reads 3.813V, Fluke 107 reads 3.805V. Car battery: DT4256= 12.29V, Fluke 107=12.26V. For my use cases, perfectly acceptable results.