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I noticed that after I reviewed the footage but I was too far along to re-record that part nor would it have altered the fact that there were fit problems. The bottom line is the covers didn't clear the polylocks.

I can be found on this forum: www.g3gm.com/forum

Ok I just registered 👌🏾👌🏾

The pumps are not the same. Starting in 1975, the fan belt pulley was pressed on to the power steering shaft. There are different tools used to properly remove and install the pulley without damaging it or the pump on your 1979 Monte Carlo.

@@drivingmyoldcar1974 okay then I suppose this video is not for me?

The starters on both my Chevy and my Cadillac are ok (knock on wood) and not showing symptoms of failure. It's not complicated to change a starter, just difficult because they're heavy and I don't have a lift, just jack stands. The best way to extend the life of your starter is to install thick battery cables; one or two sizes thicker than factory. Personally, I hope I won't have to change either of my starters for many years but when I do, I will certainly record then post the video.

1974 was the last year of traditional breaker point type ignition in GM cars. The coil would be located on top of the engine near the distributor. Here's a video showing how to test it: ruclips.net/video/oc941J0wh0Y/видео.htmlsi=PANlHr_2Xh-pRTHi

What could cause my car not to turn or nothing like not even the battery will turn on or the radio or my horn nothing and it was just driving jt after I change my gas tank and fuel sending unit and fuel filter and then the next day no crank or nothing

Most electrical problems are due to poor grounding. Re-establish your ground. Starting with the ground (negative) wire from the battery, disconnect each end, clean the connectors and the point where is makes contact with the battery and the car with steel wool, reconnect, then check with a continuity meter. Do the same with your ground straps/wires; there should be one that goes from the engine to the frame, engine to the firewall, engine to the hood. There should also be a ground strap or wire going from the negative terminal on the battery to the body. If there are still problems, then you'll need to isolate the open circuit through systematic process of elimination. Hopefully you have a shop manual with a wiring diagram that you can follow. Start by measuring the voltage at the starter where the positive battery connects then at the main junction block on the firewall which is between the brake booster and windshield washer reservoir. @@zacalaniz9337

Thank you, I intend to. I have a couple of jobs planned that I expect to get to by this Spring.

@@drivingmyoldcar1974^

What do you mean?

I'm glad you found this video useful. One thing to note; no all QJ carbs can accommodate the idle stop solenoid bracket. That setup was introduced in about 1972 when the Federal emission regs forced the car makers to make engines with lower compression ratios. In other words, as long as your carb has the index key, tab, and screw hole, you're golden.

Excellent! Thanks for the info!

Hope this video helps. Good luck.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Unfortunately, these boosters are no longer available on the secondary market. Hence, you have two options: • Rebuild the one you have. Either do it yourself (www.caddydaddy.com/1969-1970-1971-1972-1973-1974-1975-1976-1977-1978-1979-1980-1981-cadillac-eldorado-delco-moraine-11-inch-dual-diaphragm-brake-booster-repair-kit-16-pieces-reproduction-free-shipping-in-the-usa.html ) or take (send) it to a place that does it. This is the best option since you know it will fit. • Retrofit a Helix 54049 Cadmium Plated 11 Inch Dual Brake Booster (www.amazon.com/Helix-Suspension-Steering-Cadmium-Booster/dp/B06XG96PD5 ) with an adapter kit (www.ebay.com/itm/332103431721 ). You will likely need to drill an additional mounting hole into one of the adapter plates. Or you could see about retrofitting a Morane 11" dual diaphragm booster from a different model (such as a 1983 Chevrolet Impala) but you'll need to find/make a clevis adapter. The advantage with this option is once the adapter kit has been fitted to your car, you will be able to adapt a wide variety of boosters.

Thanks. I expect to be recording more videos of doing work on my Monte Carlo; these old cars always need something.

I'm glad you won't be making the same mistake I did. There's another poster who recommended the Wheel Vintiques Rallye wheels. That company's local to me so I expect to be going there soon.

Really worn parts such as the ones I had would cause lots of slop in the linkage which could lead to more severe issues. I sourced nearly all of the parts on eBay. The following parts are still produced and readily available: • Transmission Range Selector Rod Swivel clamp (#1385607) • Transmission mounted gearshift external lever bracket (#480565) • Steering column lower arm control rod bushing & sleeve (#1394293) • Auto Trans Shifter Cross Shaft Linkage Bushing Spring Kit. The transmission control equalizer shaft assembly (#488452) was one of those parts made of "unobtainium"; discontinued many years ago. The deities of automotive smiled upon me when I found one that was NOS (new old stock). Alternatively, I would have had to scour the web or scrounge the local wrecking yards for a used one. For my follow-up video (ruclips.net/video/iVJ84w_F0EQ/видео.html), the TH350 detent spring assembly (#6260153) and the shifter rooster gear selector [LEVER, Gr. 4.279, #330136] are also made of unobtainium and were sourced from eBay. I got the filter kit and transmission fluid from the local parts store.

Yes. The thermostat performs multiple functions. It not only restricts the flow of coolant to the radiator until the engine is up to temperature but it maintains engine temperature at its optimal range without wide fluctuations. When your engine operates at less than ideal temperature, water condensation may not be completely removed from the inside of the engine crankcase and combustion may be less than ideal. Furthermore, on warm days, the coolant may not have enough time in the radiator to cool down causing your engine to run warmer than it should.

In my follow-up video (ruclips.net/video/SAQCjxONp0A/видео.html) mentioned in the description above, of the four I received, only one (1) passed my QC inspection. I shipped the three (3) defective wheels back to JEGS who exchanged them. Each of the replacements were wobbly as I showcased in the follow-up. Good luck with your S10 build.

@Mark Villarino I just ordered 4 yesterday. Hopefully my experience will be better than yours. I definitely do plan on checking the wheels before I mount tires on them.

@@shadymaint1how were your wheels? Just wondering because I just received 4 and didn’t check yet haha

@pinetreewilly I bought wheels, center caps and trim rings all for less than $500. They are still in the boxes though. Have only opened one box. My 5.3 swap project is not ready for wheels yet. Hard to find time to work on it .

Ok let you know how mine are run out wise thanks

Thank you, glad you enjoyed it.

Glad to help

Good luck. My other video (ruclips.net/video/SAQCjxONp0A/видео.html) is done better. It shows the unboxing of three replacement wheels and their QC test. Out of seven wheels I got from JEGS, only one spun true.

​@@drivingmyoldcar1974 the wheels I bought hopped just like yours.