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Why you saying Dominos add strength to the joint?

I bought the original version years ago and really liked it. I stopped using it after my initial stock of beech beads was exhausted. I would really like to use again but cannot source the bead stock, special bead router or related accessories here in the United Kingdom. I have reached out to Rockwell via their web site for help but (as yet) they have not responded. Ho Hum!

So it's basically a less functional dowel jig. Neat but I don't know it's worth the money

Great video! Is your siding/window trim wood or vinyl? I'd love to do this at my house

Grizzly has a spindle dowel joiner for $100 bucks! Works like a champ, much better than the beadlock and the Domino is just way to overpriced to me! Great video

For panel glue ups I still use my biscuit jointer to align the boards. It's quick and cheap. Where the Beadlock system comes into play is when making joints that normally would be made using traditional mortice and tenon. For those joints you don't want any side to side play. The spacers stack to allow me to center the tenon on the board. While not as fast as a domino, it yields an equally strong, accurately placed floating tenon. I can also use the Beadlock as a doweling jig by only drilling the center hole while set in the A position if only one dowel is needed or just the two outside holes with the Beadlock guide in the A position. The Beadlock can only be placed on the edges or ends of boards and not on the faces. I've used it enough to be efficient with it and am satisfied with the results I get by using it. No jig or guide is for everyone.

My initial reaction is, I like it. I’m just a part time putzer and am not interested in production. I can afford a domino but would never use it that much. So this gadget would answer the need and justify the purchase.

Only an idiot like you would give rockleer 89 dollers for plastic.at least try to. Print it out all of two dollars

Yeah but I can drill an accurate domino with my Festool in 1/10th the time it took you to use the Beadlock. Time is money. When I finally broke down and dropped $1100 on my Festool domino, I was surprised on how well it was made. Everything is just nuts on without fiddling around to calibrate and being all metal, I expect this tool to last a lifetime. I held off for many years but now wish I bought it sooner. Dominos also let you make lateral adjustments during glue ups. Something this Beadlock can't. That's important when joining two miters or you'll be doing a lot of sanding later and possibly ruining a miter with a profile. There will be other companies making their own domino machine at some point but don't expect a lot of savings if their quality is the same or better. This is coming from a former Festool Domino hater.

I've been using a beadlock system for years Rockler sells a another beadlock jig is much more adjustable much more friendly little more expensive but gives you the choice of three different sizes of beadlocks

you've got no side to side play in those and if they are not perfect they are going to bind, and being so close to the top surface it will telegraph through the top, The best way to glue up a top is just with glue then flatten it off after it has been glued

I'm with those who don't see the point. Just get a good doweling jig for greater speed and likely overall more flexibility of use. The video is good but even as someone who really likes Rockler - I'd stick with the good doweling jig, or if I'm looking for more speed with the precision pay for the Domino. Heck, cheaper than the Domino but more expensive than the doweling jig would be to get the Castle 110 and maybe a face clamp - generally no significant joint shift with that beast and it's actually fairly fast (but doesn't have the flexibility of use you get with the Domino or a good doweling jig like the DowelMax). The true beauty of the Castle 110 is that it will give you both alignment and clamping pressure. The downside is that it is pretty noisy, not cheap, and doesn't work with material more than 1" thick.

there are many videos (before yours came out) where the upper rods were just plain round stock and use the undermount bearings. Did you consider that option which would have avoided the whole right angle metal bracket issue. also why did you feel the need to put your hand on top of the router as you were moving it were you sensing that it wasn't staying all the way down?

$90 better spent on a good doweling jig. Faster and no proprietary biscuits.

I have used the Beadlock and Festool Domino DF500 in my cabinet shop. What we have settled on using is dowels. The Beadlock is a pain because the drilled holes need to be "cleaned up" so the parts fit tightly. This adds considerable time. We cut dowel holes with a router. Also, it is too hard to place Beadlock tenons in the middle of a panel for dividers/shelves, etc. And, after the initial Festool sticker shock, using Dominos is too expensive. The price of 1 Domino can buy 10 dowels. Festool suggested making our own Dominos, but this adds more time, complexity and takes away from the tasks at hand. The dowels aid with alignment and are very strong. The Festool sits in its fancy box gathering dust. Lesson learned. KISS.

Am i the only mental child in here who giggled at "now we can do our b holes"?

Really like the drawer fronts! Great work!

A bit confusing. First you say it is structual, like a domino. Then you say it is too close to the edge to be structual. Then you say it is as strong as a domino from a structual standpoint.

I can see it being problematic that there is no side to side adjustment of the boards once joined. Your marked lines were a hair off, which means if any more in the row were a hair off or just right, the pieces wouldn't fit together. A biscuit or a domino allows for a little side to side adjustment.

Great content ... it is proof that those of us with limited tools, if we take our time and plan, can get it done. Thx for hte inspiration

Someone has slowly made that less and less capable. Check out the earliest iteration of a beadlock. It;s metal, can be adjusted for offset, came in 1/4" 5/16" and 3/8" for the one device, and came with a squared insert to chisel the mortice with square sides so no need for the special, expensive router bit. But they got rid of that one.

Great video, thanks for sharing! We do offer a Spacer Kit for adjusting the mortise depth. Here is the link to it - www.rockler.com/spacer-kit-for-rockler-beadlock-joinery-jig

That thing is pretty cool Dino. It does look like there's a spacer kit for it for just a few bucks as well as different diameter beadlocks. I'm gonna look into getting one for myself. I'm looking forward to the next video to see how well that thing worked out for you. 👊🏼

I like the looks of the one piece top. Nice and clean looking.

I am pretty sure you can find good solutions for all your ideas on WoodPrix page :)

Those turned out awesome Dino! Well done brother. 👊🏼

Floor sounds like they didn't use sub-floor adheisive when they laid it down... lots of screws... lots and lots of screws..

Good stuff.. Thanks for the content... May I offer the use of some alumuinum angle... Amazon has several dims and lengths avial. You can cut the aluminum angle with your wood working blades. Good Stuff!

This was the first time I’ve seen you on RUclips and I really enjoyed it, your genuine enthusiasm shines through and is inspiring. I’ve wanted to build my own flattening setup even though I’ve already got a DeWalt planer/Thicknesser. I will definitely incorporate many of your ideas and use an old 230v DeWalt router which has variable speed control.

I’ve seen pressure treated rot and get infested with termites. That needs a gravel base

Thanks

great video and thankyou for making it and sharing. I am in the process of building mine but once I installed the linear bearings on the acrylic router cradle and then install that onto the rails there seems to be some binding when sliding as if the bearings are not exactly in-line with one another. I tried to be as precise as I could when drilling the mounting holes for the bearings but I'm thinking I may need to woller the holes out some to allow for a little movement in the bearings so that they can self-align to each other and slide more freely before I tighten them up all the way.....Whats your thoughts on this? Thankyou....

great sled is there any sag in middle of rails from router weight when doing a wide slab

Keep up the great work!!!!

Next time you need aluminum brackets, check out 8020.

Mine decided to act up randomly just like this today. It was sitting there all by itself, and all of a sudden started leaking

Really awesome build.

Dear, I very much appreciated your project, simplicity, your gentleness and honesty. Congratulations from Brazil!

Blessings!

Thanks, ready to put it together. Greatly appreciated.

Can i get the link for the hinges ??

Nice job. Many sliding miter saws use the same linear bearings so I imagine they will hold up well. I would add a little loctite to the screws in the router base and at the machine screws on the bearings because there will be a lot of vibration. Have you had any issues with dust collection? Do you wish for a sweep under the acrylic to aid in that? Do you want some sort of stop block to hold the rails steady for each 'row' that you smooth out?

Is there a different option for mounting the acrylic to the rails vs. doing the Z bracket modification? Could the acrylic piece be mounted on the top of the bearing pieces? Then use a collet extension to get the same height?

Sorry for that last question sounding so bad, I meant to say, where did you get.......

Hello, where is you get the rails and bearings? Or did I just miss it?

Hi great video! I am planning my sled out now. I've seen a lot of youtubers with a similar design, but with different cross rails (yours looks much more sturdy--theirs don't have the rigid aluminum for bolting down but are simpler round rails). Did you consider using the other type? I'm wondering if there's a benefit I don't understand. I'm also wondering how to deal with my uneven floors. I imagine by setup needs to be perfectly flat for this to work.

Who painted the house ?

Great video. Appreciate the level of detail with your assembly. I am wondering how long these bearings will hold up on the runners with all the sawdust? Is yours still smooth?

Looks great. Just curious, why not a CNC spindle vs a router for this? Can't find any video that uses one, but wondering why not.. they seem better able to handle more speed, more power, etc. Regardless.. how do you plunger further down? Are you limited to the plunge base of the router in this case.. or can you plunge down to a 1/2" work piece? Ideally don't want to have to change the blocks under the long rails to adjust the height of that.