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A drill works good for twisting wires together. Unspool enough of each wire. You don’t have to cut them yet off the spools. Clamp all the wires to a workbench at the spool end close together using a vise or a squeeze clamp. Take the free ends of the wires and put them in the drill chuck. Run the drill slowly and the wires will twist together very nicely.

It looks B’stard hairy (in the before condition) or looks like someone’s dirty-protested it, only with crude oil (instead of crude human waste). Whomever, ahem, decorated those should take to the outdoors and do the decent thing by Ol’ Yellering themselves.

One minute he’s a cockney, the next an Australian. Make up ya bloody mind mate.

COBALT - MILDLY RADIOACTIVE !!! "Cobalt" point motors from the USA are DANGEROUS. Cobalt is a mildly RADIOACTIVE material, perfectly legal in the USA, but illegal in Britain where safety standards are more stringent. And you may just get a visit from Customs & Excise, if they detect this "radioactive" material coming through the Postal system. Indeed they ejected a friend of mine & his family from their Home for three days. While the men in white coats confiscated anything & everything in their house, which had been contaminated. He was using U.S. produced Cobalt magnets in his Scalextric slot car motors, because they are more powerful. The same magnets as used in other "Cobalt" products ! A sensible non radioactive substitute for point motors are the Swiss produced Fulgurex motors at around £11 each, direct MAIL ORDER from Fulgurex in Switzerland (they speak English). Indeed a case load of 20 motors works out cheaper per motor ! I've been using these 12v DC mechanisms on heavy duty Exhibition layouts for over 30 years.

Your videos are such a great resource for us modellers. Thank you!

I skip the dabbing, just dry brush with the big brush: light bit of paint on the big brush and brush on scrap paper till it is suitably light.

Why do you use oil based paints vs. acrylic?

A nicely weathered wagon and not overdone, over weathered wagons particularly in small scales don’t look right.

love you channel very handy, just letting you know the sound drops in an out for this one 👍

a tank engines coal container is called a bunker :)

Great job, the Gronk is back!

Great idea for a small project. It just might inspire others to give it a go. 👍

Looks like a nice little kit, great video.

This is really really good. I've seen a number of figure painting videos and I have several figures from mini prints, including a minime (AndyR) You figure painting has to be the best one I've seen. Thankyou

Are you using acrylic paint?

You need volume. I have to turn you way up, then when an ad interrupts it blows me out of my chair.

Good thanks, had done it years ago but this was a great tutorial.

I think your weathering looks really cool and realistic,i did try it once on a class 55 and 08 shunter,but it made a right mess,I do like weatherd look sometimes.But i aint good enough to do it correctly,less is more i suppose.i leave everything pristine now.thanks though

Great job and very educational. However, wouldn't the front tyres be melted by the fire?

Hello Will you make the depot railings again Thanks

Getting ready to paint up some ModelU figures for era 3. Really helpful and love the result you achieved. Cheers

Amazing model! Love your work and bought a few. Is it all cut on the S1? Even the glass, always tried to figure out how to get the window inserts perfect when doing my own models

Well done🎉🎉❤❤🚂

Hi I've just came across this video I'm currently trying to work out the best way to fade red/grey on a plank wagon. Don't have oil paints just acrylic/enamel and pigments. Any tips would be great the wagon in question is a N gauge obb in rail freight livery.

Just amazing

Excellent video I am just starting to learn how to do this

Usually a concrete chimney ,

Why not solder the red & black wires where the 2 links are? Would save 2 solders!

Great work. I just subbed.

Great workshop! Thanks 🙏 new subscriber 🙋‍♂️

Very satisfying to watch - I’m going to be trying some of these techniques on one of my old diesels

Thank you for sharing your top tips. I learnt a lot. I've been a subscriber for some time and I've bookmarked this video for future reference. At minute 1:50 I was a bit alarmed when you moved in with the sprue cutters COLD without first giving the print a 10 second soak in hot water (about 70C) to help provide "flex" and wiggle to release the figure from the sprue. The recommended release method is to soak in hot water, flex the support struts and allow them to fall away from the figure by themselves. The risk of accidentally cutting off integral parts of the sculpture is reduced if you go through this process. Sprue cutters are not required; (although a sharp scalpel is occasionally needed to tidy up any stubborn blips after the figure is free from the sprue). Is it possible to edit your video with a sub-title at this point "after soaking the print in hot water (70C) for ten minutes, gently flex the print and press the support struts with your fingers; they will fall away from the figures neatly by themselves".

Total noob here. Why not just submerge the whole body in IPA to remove the old paint? Would that cause damage or start melting the plastic or something like that?

Nice weathering. But which maate varnish do you apply over oil paint?

Nice one thanks Patrick Quinn IRL

I find that I use my airbrush for most of my weathering. Instead of using chalk or pastels, I use women's eye shadow makeup I get for $1.00 at the dollar store. It comes in every color under the sun and sticks better than any weathering powders you could ever hope to use. Cheers from eastern TN

Love the videos, informative and relaxing lol! I am a rookie, when using AK varnish through an airbrush to seal in a layer… do you thin the varnish?? Or do you shoot it through at full strength? Thanks!

I've used finer salt. It allows much finer control on the chipping zones beforehand. Also I have sprayed water over it afterwards to make it stick to the surface and have let the water dry completely.

Very good video. At the end of the video it shows how to configure with the control panel but I don't see the frog cable connected. Is it necessary to not be connected?

looks good, what make is the depot building?

How do you stop the wood from warping, my 3mm ply goes in flat but once I score with brick texture, it warps the wood like crazy. Also which paint spray do you use? Thank you

What a great idea, well done.

I like this, I like it very much, masking off those wheel treads can be a pain.

Who makes it? Where do you buy it?

Definitely makes painting the wheels easier!

I’ve somehow got it into my brain, what little there is of it, that locomotives never look quite right when they’re fresh and crisply painted. Give it a week of thrashing around and bring her back to me! :) :) The locomotive I’m thinking of is a 37 all tarted-up in the grey, more grey and yellow with the 5 spot dice device, black spots on a yellow square. She’ll always look more interesting and appealing with a bit of grit, grot and oil splashed up her…… ;) Bah! The loco ain’t bad-lookin’ either.

Looks really good

Looks quaility

I think it can also be pronounced 'Model-ee' as a nod to being produced in Wales. 😊 A nod to Welsh language.

Excellent job on that! looks amazing! just a question, do you NEED to prime it before you paint it or can you paint it straight away without primers?